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Justin D. Arnold
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 25 ม.ค. 2013
Here you will find footage of some of the many woodworking and home renovation projects I take on regularly. The videos are meant primarily for entertainment purposes, but if you watch closely, you might learn some new tricks!
Simplified Compass Rose Inlay - Scroll Saw Project
This scroll saw project was a gift the sole proprietor of Compass Coaching, a certified professional life coach, specializing in ADHD and executing functioning (compasscoachingseattle.com). The simplified compass rose is one logo used by the company.
Two tiles were made using curly maple and Peruvian walnut. After cutting stock to size, the two blanks were resawn at the table saw. The cut faces of the resulting pieces were cleaned up with a smoothing plane, to be laminated after scroll sawing operations.
The top “plies” of each tile were fixed together with double sided tape and stack-cut. A 5/16” [8 mm] boarder was removed before cutting the outline of the compass rose. The entry point for cutting the cardinal and inter-cardinal directions was a 3/16” [~5 mm] diameter hole at the center of the rose.
Each border ply was glued back together to conceal the scroll saw cut before being laminated to the bottom ply. This was accomplished using Titebond III glue and many spring clamps. The tile bodies were set within the borders and inlayed with the contrasting compass points (i.e. maple inlay in walnut border and walnut inlay in maple border).
The holes at the center of the roses were filled with plugs, cut from stock matching the compass point material. Not having the appropriate size plug cutter, nor the time to acquire one commercially, a cutter was improvised using a brass coupler meant to join soft tubing. With the fitting chucked up in the drill press, the barbs were removed using a metal file. Three teeth were cut into the end of the shaft with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool. After plunging the cutter into the maple and walnut stock, the plugs were freed from the parent material with a pull saw. While the service life of the improvised plug cutter is questionable, it worked a treat for the two plugs required!
The thin kerfs left from scrolling the parts were filled with dark brown CA (for the walnut compass points) and a blend of “white” and “natural oak” epoxy putty (for the maple compass points). After resurfacing, the tiles received several coats of satin spray lacquer, just in time to be presented to the intended recipient. Happy Birthday Bethany!
Woodwork, video, & editing by Justin @TwinTenonLLC
Music:
Music from #Uppbeat
uppbeat.io/t/stan-town/peppy-steps
Two tiles were made using curly maple and Peruvian walnut. After cutting stock to size, the two blanks were resawn at the table saw. The cut faces of the resulting pieces were cleaned up with a smoothing plane, to be laminated after scroll sawing operations.
The top “plies” of each tile were fixed together with double sided tape and stack-cut. A 5/16” [8 mm] boarder was removed before cutting the outline of the compass rose. The entry point for cutting the cardinal and inter-cardinal directions was a 3/16” [~5 mm] diameter hole at the center of the rose.
Each border ply was glued back together to conceal the scroll saw cut before being laminated to the bottom ply. This was accomplished using Titebond III glue and many spring clamps. The tile bodies were set within the borders and inlayed with the contrasting compass points (i.e. maple inlay in walnut border and walnut inlay in maple border).
The holes at the center of the roses were filled with plugs, cut from stock matching the compass point material. Not having the appropriate size plug cutter, nor the time to acquire one commercially, a cutter was improvised using a brass coupler meant to join soft tubing. With the fitting chucked up in the drill press, the barbs were removed using a metal file. Three teeth were cut into the end of the shaft with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool. After plunging the cutter into the maple and walnut stock, the plugs were freed from the parent material with a pull saw. While the service life of the improvised plug cutter is questionable, it worked a treat for the two plugs required!
The thin kerfs left from scrolling the parts were filled with dark brown CA (for the walnut compass points) and a blend of “white” and “natural oak” epoxy putty (for the maple compass points). After resurfacing, the tiles received several coats of satin spray lacquer, just in time to be presented to the intended recipient. Happy Birthday Bethany!
Woodwork, video, & editing by Justin @TwinTenonLLC
Music:
Music from #Uppbeat
uppbeat.io/t/stan-town/peppy-steps
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Drawers for an Alajuela38 "SV Finder" - Part 2 - Guides and Stops
มุมมอง 2212 หลายเดือนก่อน
Drawers for SV Finder Part 2 - Drawer Guides and Cleats “Finder” is a 38-foot Alajuela, originally built in the late 70’s. After living aboard through the last winter, the owner was keen on installing drawers in several relatively short and deep cubbies throughout the vessel to improve access to stowed items. In total, seven drawers were added: two in the navigation station, two forward of the ...
Drawers for an Alajuela38 "SV Finder" - Part 1 - Drawer Construction
มุมมอง 1612 หลายเดือนก่อน
Drawers for SV Finder Part 1 - Making the Drawers “Finder” is a 38-foot Alajuela, originally built in the late 70’s. After living aboard through the last winter, the owner was keen on installing drawers in several relatively short and deep cubbies throughout the vessel to improve access to stowed items. In total, seven drawers were added: two in the navigation station, two forward of the head, ...
Drawers for an Alajuela38 "SV Finder" - Part 3 - Installation
มุมมอง 1342 หลายเดือนก่อน
Drawers for SV Finder Part 3 - Installation “Finder” is a 38-foot Alajuela, originally built in the late 70’s. After living aboard through the last winter, the owner was keen on installing drawers in several relatively short and deep cubbies throughout the vessel to improve access to stowed items. In total, seven drawers were added: two in the navigation station, two forward of the head, and th...
Large Format Cabinet Construction + Solo Installation
มุมมอง 3717 หลายเดือนก่อน
Of the nearly 60 cabinets required for the Nordic Hill cabinet project, several could be classified as “large format” and nine of them were 7’ [2.1 m] tall (or taller). This video shows the general construction approach and assembly of one of the cabinets and installation of two of them. Most of the large format cabinets had at least one exposed side, which meant the carcasses could not be asse...
Floating Vanity Installation
มุมมอง 4058 หลายเดือนก่อน
This video shows the installation of a frameless 45” wide x 24” tall x 24” deep [1,150 x 610 x 610 mm] floating vanity. As with the other cabinets for this project, the vanity was made using Euro-core white birch plywood, finished with Rubio Monocoat. The ½” [12 mm] thick back panel of the carcass was glued and screwed in rabbets in the ¾” [19 mm] sides to allow the use of a support bracket fro...
Cabinet Filler Strips - Flush with Overlay Doors
มุมมอง 10K9 หลายเดือนก่อน
One of the last steps for this custom cabinet project was to fill the voids above and adjacent to the installed cabinets. This video shows the process of scribing filler strips to the ceiling above a row of upper cabinets in the pantry. The filler material was cut and finished at the same time as the cabinet doors, both of which were made using Euro-core white birch plywood. The filler strips w...
Plumbing Drawer with Half-Blind Dovetails
มุมมอง 2.5K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
Two of the 56 drawers required for this project needed to accommodate the plumbing of the double vanity in the master bathroom. This video shows the process of fitting one of the two drawer bottoms to the prepared side pieces and dry fitting the assembly. The drawer box was made entirely of Baltic birch plywood. The half-blind dovetail joints of the side pieces were cut using a Super 12 jig by ...
Making Baltic Birch Drawer Boxes Installation-Ready
มุมมอง 24110 หลายเดือนก่อน
A video illustrating the process of making half-blind dovetailed Baltic Birch drawer boxes ready for installation after basic assembly. After assembly, the dovetail joints were flushed-up using a block plane and a random orbit sander with 150# paper, as were the exposed plies. The sharp edges were eased with a 1/16" roundover bit chucked up in a trim router. The inside corners, where the router...
Baltic Birch Drawer Box Assembly
มุมมอง 50811 หลายเดือนก่อน
Timelapse assembly of one of 58 drawers for the project. Drawer boxes were made from 1/2" baltic birch plywood, with half-blind dovetails routed using a Super 12 jig from Leigh. Drawer box blanks were pre-finished using Rubio Monocoat Hybrid Wood Protector (White). The edges will ultimately be eased and finished with the same product and the drawer boxes will be outfitted to receive Blum Movent...
NordicHill-DrawerGlideInstall-RAW
มุมมอง 119ปีที่แล้ว
Installing Blum Movento drawer glides in drawer base cabinet
NordicHill-DrawerBaseAssembly-RAW
มุมมอง 73ปีที่แล้ว
Assembly of one of many drawer base cabinets (pieces were cut/banded,/finished previously)
Douglas Fir Bench from Wide Plank Flooring
มุมมอง 3.1Kปีที่แล้ว
Putting together a bench for the Nordic Hill (cabinet) project I've been working on. The benches will be wall mounted on custom brackets (designed by the owners) and "float" six inches above the floor. Essentially a hollow four-sided box, simple joinery was selected to facilitate construction and accommodate wood movement in the to-be humid environment of the indoor pool area. Glue-up of the pl...
You can't saw these so accurately freehand. Is it possible to get an accuracy of less than 0.5 mm?
I don't see why not.
How do you keep your plywood from chipping when you do the dovetails? I've been trying to do dovetails on my baltic birch drawers and I keep getting splinters and chips in the wood.
Plywood is prone to blowout when routing dovetails, particularly the tail boards, since you're routing across the plies. Minor chipping near the tips of some of the tails is basically inevitable, but here are some things to try to keep the pieces servicable: 1) Use sharp/clean bits. (After cutting many pin boards in baltic birch, the bit will become scalloped and covered in glue resin and pitch). 2) Set the router to the fastest speed that won't burn the bit. I set mine at "3" or "4". 3) Use a slow and steady feed rate 4) Back up the "outfeed" side of the stock with a sacrificial board. Make sure the support board is butted tightly to the back side of the tail board. You may need to put a clean edge on the support board every so often to maintain the zero-clearance effect. 5) I always climb-cut the tail boards in plywood. Start with one long pass from right to left to define the base (shoulder) of the tail. Then, work right to left, in and out between the tails. Again, slow and steady feed rate, and keep a firm grip on the router! You may still get a bit of blowout on the part of the tails that gets buried in the adjoining board, but the show side should stay pretty crisp. 6) Keep the router at a consistent relative rotation to the workpiece. I try to keep the handles parallel to the dovetail jig. This will keep concentricity errors in the router/bushing from causing the bit to grab, not to mention helping maintain a consistent fit. I hope this helps!
@ thank you so much!! I’ll try all of those tips.
Was that super glue all over the inlay and on all the seams? Imo the walnut border hid its cut line better, but very well done on both of them from what the video showed. Thanks for sharing
Yes, I used dark brown CA glue (from Starbond) on the walnut inlay and a mix of "white" and "natural oak" epoxy putty (from Mohawk) on the maple inlay. I agree, the cut on the walnut border was much less conspicuous. I may have got some walnut dust in the maple one. Very observant of you! Thanks for watching!
So beautiful! I love it.
Beautiful! 56 drawers is an incredible amount.
Thats a great jig , its similar to uscribe that cost to much , thanks
Thanks! I wasn't sure the uscribe would work for this application and since I already had some 1/8" and 3/4" plywood, the site made version went together in a snap and worked really well.
NIIICE
Thanks for watching (and commenting)!
That looks slick!
Thanks! The customer was as happy with the results as I was!
going way too fast - thumbs down
As a photographer I shall give you a tip .Never use a camera that gives you distortion to make these kind of video , Distortion makes straight lines looks curvy with wide angle lenses . Fast forwarding your work shows nothing interesting at all and painful to the watcher`s eyes. Good luck , for the next one .