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I got a couple of T-nuts, but mostly it was the useless square-nuts type. I ordered mine about a week before this video was uploaded, and a couple of my friends ordered it a couple of weeks after. According to my friends they have changed all nuts to T-Nuts now. :)

Nope there isnt any ptfe liner in the V6...

jordan bourns I suggest you look on their site there is but it is in the cold zone.

jordan bourns Splitting hairs and it is simply marketing to call it an all metal anything since it really isn't all metal.

The Best Stooge no, there is absolutely no ptfe liner, there is ptfe if you have a Bowden, but that does not count as it is not in the hotend

I would love too try the real-deal, but it's currently out of my printer budget. I would advice everyone that can afford a genuine E3Dv6 to buy one as that supports E3D and also the stuff has a lot more quality-checks. So you don't have to fiddle as much to get it to work as you need with a clone. :-)

If you can't afford a genuine E3D V6, get a genuine E3D Lite6!

Not the same as the Lite6 is not an all metal hotend and the whole point of the V6, and the clones, is the all metal aspect of it.

Hey E3D! I wanted to order the E3D Titan with the V6 from you website, and saw that the design of the Titan was bad for 3mm filament. How bad is this problem? Has it been resolved? Something with that the idler can't be pulled back all the way because of the plastic part and that filament can't be pushed in? Saw multiple video's about it.

Hi! You'll be glad to know this issue has been resolved and our Titan extruders now work happily with 3mm filament :)

Yes, i think it's a very good starter kit. :)

BoXon Ive seen that over time the frame falls apart, has this been a issue?

I have never had a problem with this printer (except för the ones i caused it by testing things out). Frame is rigid enough and hasn't been falling apart for me, but be aware to not over tighten it as it easily cracks. (Hasn't happened to me tough)

What is the build volume on this also what is that white covering you put over your wires Thanks. PS: i like how you setup your printer :D

200x200x180 (X,Y,Z). I've made alot of changes to the printer, so a new video will probably be out soon. :)

Good choice, you will not be disappointed! :-)

+55Rumble Hi! Glad to hear it's working good for you! I'm working on some new updates to the printer, and will post a new video when i'm done. Heard a lot about BuildTak, but as i found the best solution (so far) about a week ago i haven't made an investment to get any. (Solution: Cheap wood glue without any water added)

Hi Filip! I contacted the guys at Sunhokey and asked for the firmwire, they provided it with no questions asked. I suggest you to do the same as mine is mks v1.1 and yours probably 1.2.

+clayder x Hi! Nope i haven't tried any other material than PLA (well a some ABS but the smell of it keeps me sticking to PLA for now), but i'm quite interested in trying the wood materials, i cannot see why it should have any problem with it though, the only material i can think of it would have trouble printing is flexible as of the bowden extruder. Well i think it's v.2 (if you think of Hiboson's version as v.1), a friend of mine got the latest version a couple of weeks ago and that had a different hotend and also a piece of glass glued to the aluminium bed. I'll do some videos of testing different material as soon as possible, my new workspace is almost complete now, just waiting for that damn CAT6 cable to supply me with some network again. :)

+Jaco Le Roux Thanks Jaco! Yeah i had to design that myself to, too bad i don't think i have those .stl files though, so i'm glad you managed to manufacture your own! Thats the whole point of 3D printing, right? ;) I'll be mowing to a bigger apartment next weekend (waiting has been so long and i can't use anything in my house currently as everything is in boxes), but as soon as i get my new "workshop-room" setup i'll be here with more videos of the printer! I also ordered a proximity sensor to test another method of auto bed leveling so i guess we'll see how that turns out! :)

+BoXon Hi again, thanks for replying, if anyone is interested here is a link for the one I have designed, maybe not the best but it works, I have made one change since my print yesterday, I only had a tight 4mm hole where a M4 bolt make use of the material to screw it down on the acrylic, I have added a hex M4 hole on the bottom peace for fasting it that way, the only thing is to drill a hole in you acrylic but use caution. I'm still learning to use the 3D Printer some calibrations just doesn't add up, I think I'll get a new and better Extruder and hotend.. I'm looking forward to your proximity sensor test, will look out for it.. enjoy www.dropbox.com/s/blw9lhjpk03ufpq/ABL%20Sunhokey%20PRUSA%20i3.zip?dl=0

Yeah there will! But im currently moving into a bigger apartment so currently i dont have any time or space for recording. Once ive moved this channel will likely explode with videos! I got alot of ideas! :)

+Daniel White (Benji241) You need to change the ballbearing to a flat one. 624zz fits in the original holder.

Hi! I did not change the bearing, but as i changed the screw that thighten and loosen the bearing to a longer one, i think im able to give the feather more room so that it's pressing the bearing harder on the filament. i changed it due to the hexagon pattern on the screw got round.

+Björn Blomberg I'm usually printing around 30-50mm/s. I guess your biggest problem might be that you haven't calibrated the extruder so that it extrudes the correct amount of filament? Mine was way off in its original state! :)

Okay thanks for the information. My extruder is calibrated, it extruded way to little filament with stock settings.