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Malcolm Garner
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2005
1000 Arrows at the Windsor Castle Gosport January 2024.
1000 Arrows at the Windsor Castle Gosport January 2024.
มุมมอง: 11
วีดีโอ
Beneteau 393 Bilge pump
มุมมอง 6353 ปีที่แล้ว
How to fit an additional high-capacity bilge pump. Very simple way without the need for a through-hull fitting.
Beneteau 393 Summer sail 2020 from Weymouth
มุมมอง 2484 ปีที่แล้ว
Filmed sailing from Weymouth to the Solent
Bonnie Tyler at the Tokaj Wine Festival
มุมมอง 4215 ปีที่แล้ว
Live performance of some of her popular songs.
Quad-copter Gimble Test
มุมมอง 327 ปีที่แล้ว
First drone flight with new gimble and cheap camera over the Solent
fiN @ Sonisphere 2009 part 1
มุมมอง 1728 ปีที่แล้ว
The band fiN play the opening numbers to their set at Knebworth UK on 1st August
Gosport Waterfront Festival 2011 Toploader
มุมมอง 19611 ปีที่แล้ว
Gosport Waterfront Festival 2011 Toploader
Beneteau recommends to use polyurethane adhesive ( ex: 3M 5200) instead of thickened epoxy, therefore, if eventually you need to remove the bronze bearing , it will be possible.
I’m looking at the 393… thank you for such a beautiful video!
Hi Malcolm Thanks for sharing. I’m currently in the same situation. My question is: Are you gluing the hull and the “sleeve” you made together? Ive ordered a complete set of bearing/bushings from Bénéteau, and replace top, bottom and the thin washer. I wanna go for another solution, as i’m planning on taking a thin fibermatt, and glue that into the hole in the hull. I believe that you kept the bushing, “in a live rotationel state”? How do you make sure to keep the opening in the bushing towards the bow/sailing direction? Enjoy the upcoming season Fair winds all. Br La Vie
👍👍
The problem from the copper bearing wearing out. Just replace it.
Wrap the bearing in thin copper, and tin them together.
Did it work long term? Looked like a high quality "work around" in place of a super expensive full repair. You said you could see wear the where has occurred. I couldn't see wear the where is, is it their? It's near the hull whole?🥴😖😳🤔😷 That's amazing, a huge bearing. Was surprised to see how similar that bearing looks to engine main and connecting rod bearings...which take a tremendous amount of force. Good work! Thank you for taking the time to create edit and post your videos!
I would not use your technique for making this repair. I would have made the dimensional measurements and had a new on fabricated to the required thickness and installed it proper. I think your giving bad advice in this case. Proper mechanical engineering practice is to replace shims and sleeves that are out of tolerance with shims or sleeves that provide the proper tolerance. Pretty basic really.
I entirely agree with you. Now I actually know how it is constructed the next time I take the rudder bearing to pieces I would have the copper shim machined but at least my initial repair allows you to do that. I was originally advised to glue the copper bearing in position. So far the whole thing has been fine. P.S. there are no sleeves that you can replace only the stock tube which was cast into the fibreglass hull during manufacture.
Believe it or not some people actually use their boats and end up with problems in far flung places where access to a machine shop is impossible. This workaround is possible providing one can even find even the matt and resin!
Hi Malcolm, looks like I need to do what you have done with my 411. Has your repair been successful ?? Is it still sound ?
PVA =polyvinyl alcohol not the glue 😉
Nice Video, Thanks for Sharing
Hi Malcolm, How is it now out of curiosity? Also is that an Alu shaft. I see a Bavaria with Alu shaft and wonder if AL is up to the job.... Stainless surely is better? Also copper on alu and /or steel surely is not as good as Teflon from a corrosion perspective.? replace with Teflon? Thanks for posting. Good idea, cost /time wise I might do that to my own boat . I might have: used the pipe jubilee clip at the base of the copper bearing, then used releasing agent over all that, then pushed it up into the tube with carbon chopstrand epoxy resin spread round inside the tube, then when set pulled out to gently bore/clean above the new hull tube (black filler easy to differentiate) and left the the key (carbon) created by the gap in the bearing so it would not turn against the hull/tube anymore.......? Then refit.. similar result, . Maybe more work
Hi thanks for you comment. Its now in its 3rd season since I effected that repair and although there is some play in the rudder it is still not as bad as it was. The one thing I thought I may done better with would be not to back off on the pipe clip too much thus making a tighter fit. The copper would easily bed in to its new shape. The rudder stock is stainles steel and all parts are original. As the boat is a syndicate boat it gets a lot of use during the season so its had a pretty good test.
My 37 year old Westerly Fulmar has less movement than that....
to clear it i mean, i want to change the Stuffing box, of propeller. thks.
Hi Malcom , nice your videos.. i also have a oceanis 393 , and i have a problem with Shaft seal propeller. I dont know if you have a video to change it. is it possible to change it with boat on water ??? i have to do as it is Losing water, dripping... thks for your help..
that looks like a mickey mouse scam job to tighten it just enough to fool a unsuspecting future buyer into thinking the rudder is fine. no way that will hold up to the pounding a rudder will take in the ocean. why not fix it right and just add the repair cost to the sale price.
Hi John in some ways your right and it is only a solution to a problem that is being tried and tested. At the end of this season (2nd season) I will drop the rudder again and inspect it. My guess is further work or an alternative solution will be required. If you consider "fixing right" to mean cutting out the bottom of your boat and fiberglassing in a replacement rudder stock tube if you can find on then that would be the way to go its your choice. If you know of a better solution I would be glad to hear it. Malcolm
Malcolm Garner Actually this is an approved method on Catalina, they actually sell a kit to do this.
@@MacOne I just did mine. I put the copper bearing around like you and used a hose clamp on rudder,I then got the outside diameter using a micrometer. I then machined a piece of delrin .010 under sized . Using a flap wheel I cleaned up the rudder hole in the boat. Then using west epoxy glassed in 4 inch wide kevlar tape around the hole. Using the delrin , flap wheel and high spot blue marking the high spots I sanded until the plug went in smooth.I also took the gap measurement on the copper bearing and machined a piece of key stock the size of the gap. putting high spot blue now on the copper and pushing out with my hands marking hi spots until I could fit keystock spacer. I also machined a new top delrin bearing as there was .015 play in it .I gave it .004 play and greased upper and lower bearing and re installed rudder . Before putting rudder back I did 4 coats of barrier coat 2000e No play and the rudder moves good .I can shake the whole boat with the rudder with no play.goes in the water next Saturday
Hi Malcolm thanks for sharing this with us. I now need to do the same. Any change you figured out where or how to get a replacement sleeve.
+Guðjón S Steindórsson I'm not sure that you can replace the whole stern tube as it is moulded into the hull but you can replace the top bearing once you have completely removed the rudder from the boat. The upper baring is a white nylon bush which can be purchased a new one from Beneteau (<> £300) but you can get one made by Davey Machining centre, Ipswich - 01473 255575) fabricated one (<> £120) - to the spec provided by my engineer - based on the original minus allowance for previous wear. I can't recall the material, but he was already familiar with the issue and knew what to use.
Painting and wine in my room to TH-cam. Fucking love this Alice, legit on me liked playlist and is such a delight each and everytime! Love xxxx
On our 2nd year at the moment. As stated below replacing the copper sleeve with a thicker one if you can get one is another option.
That looks like a temp fix, how long did it last?
Well mine has lasted a further 10 years after wearing out some 25 years after the boat was built.......it's far from temporary it's exactly how pretty much ALL the production boats out of France do it these days. But hey ho, I suppose keyboard warriors know best.
Hi Good timing with your question as the boat was only lifted last Friday. The very first thing I checked was the rudder which has held up well. There is some play but nothing like as much as last season and I have decided not to carry out maintenance on it this year. The movement at the bottom of the rudder is approximately half of what it was last season 10mm and there is a small amount of movement at the top which is probably due to the copper bedding in. My only thoughts were I probably could have tightened the pipe clip a little tighter but as I said in the video I didn't want to trap the rudder stock. What we did find during the season was after a couple of months the rudder developed a slight squeak which eventually disappeared. I assumed that this was the copper sleeve freeing itself from the fibreglass sleeve. I have also thought that it maybe possible to obtain a thicker piece of copper plate and bend that around the shaft. I hope that helps. Malcolm
Hi, how is the result after one season? Is it OK? I have to repair my Bene 281 and I want to know. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
+Ivan Minchev - Did you find a way to repair your Bene 281? Have the same problem of ours and trying to figure out a solution. Thanks!
Unfortunately not!
My congratulations...Nice music...
Very interesting film...Malcolm is very talanted designer...