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Thanks mate. Glad you liked it.

Thanks for the support as always mate. Really appreciate it.

Thanks mate. It’s nerve racking but happy I’ve done it….so far 😂

Thanks mate. Love commissioning, but keen to do some fault finding and make more videos.

No just videos in general

Thanks mate. Steep learning curve that’s for sure! So much on the business side of things for me to learn. Crazy.

As soon as I have something it will be up.

Thanks mate. Glad you’re enjoying the videos. Hopefully I’ll have something to release again soon.

Thanks mate. I’ll see what I can do about a commissioning video. Potentially do it on regular VRF as hybrid isn’t that common yet.

Thanks for the like!

Easy mate. They don’t need to be recharged with refrigerant unless there is a leak.

Eventually it gets all of us 😂

They have all documents on their website.

It’s a great tool. Anything performance related on City Multi is almost impossible to diagnose without it.

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. I can’t remember this units exact setup. But they use the high pressure transducer to control the fan speed/condenser temp in cooling mode. It’s aiming for a 38 degree condensing temp. You can check your output voltage from the board to confirm it’s working properly. If that’s ok and the board is outputting a voltage to the fan then the fan is the issue.

It’s was a rough few days 😂

I purchased it from Kirby HVACR. I can’t remember the exact price but I believe it was around $50-$80 per bag.

@@hvacraustralia Ouch well that's isn't Cheap, isn't there other cleaner's that can be used ? like simple green or CLR etc ?

brazing without nitrogen most likely

You should just remove that section of line and sweat in a straight through pipe. Always braze with nitro..

@JesseDoesHVAC it was a package unit, didn't look like it had been worked on previously. Unless the factory brazed without nitro but doubt it. Was bizzare that it somehow managed to plug a 3/8 liquid line solid

@tonymontana897 Yeah we did, removed the plugged bit and replaced. Went digging in it after we pulled it out to try and figure out what had plugged it. Would have been a pretty solid pressure differential across it (R410a), amazed it managed to plug the line solid.

I have seen it a few times but only partially blocked. I put it down to overheating the oil causing it to break down and block the strainers. Crazy to be fully blocked.

Oh awesome, I’d be keen to watch the video! Massive job mate. Yeah, it’s usually the same situation, pipes run internally etc. The repairs can be fun jobs though.

I recently gone out on my own, but I have worked for Mitsubishi Electric in the past and I still sub-contract out to their commissioning team. But yes, anyone can get access to the software and plug in. It does take a lot of work to understand the data but once you do they’re a lot of fun to work on.

100%. You still see systems 25-30 years old still working nicely in the field. When they’re installed and maintained correctly they just keep going.

I filmed this a while ago so my memory of this isn’t great, but the unit would have had some refrigerant left in the system. Usually if that’s the case, I’ll pump up with nitrogen, test my leak detector again the Schrader to confirm it picks up the refrigerant and then go looking. If it’s completely flat you need to get either trace gas or add a bit of refrigerant and then nitrogen.

@@hvacraustralia thanks for the reply, love the videos too mate. What do you think about using an ultrasonic leak detector instead?

Thank mate, glad you’re enjoying them. I’ve never had the opportunity to use one before. I’d love to get my hands on one someday to try them out. Have you used one?

@ not yet mate but would also like to get one. Would work well I reckon for using pressure testing with nitrogen to find a leak

I did try using a seperate microphone with a wind shield on it, but when I did it cut half a audio annoying. I do need to look into something else.

Thanks mate. Oh yeah, that’s a good one. Those jobs keep you on your toes 😂

Australia is way simpler than the dozens of different voltages you use over there. Residential is usually single phase 230V. Bigger houses can get 3 phase 230/400V. All commercial is going to be 3 phase 230/400V. Industrial is the same, but you can start to get 600V (something around there) but it's rare. Usually at that point you're looking at big mining stuff that'll run on the low kilovolt range. 1000V or something. Makes everything way easier as all your equipment will run anywhere, unless it's three phase and you've only got single phase. Cables are smaller. No risk of choosing the wrong equipment for the supply voltage, no big transformers needed.

​@@Thermoelectric7 thanks bud

@hvacraustralia you have the part number for the new fan motor??

No worries mate. Yes, you can remove the fan motor without disconnecting the copper pipe work. I don’t have the part number sorry mate.

I can’t remember 100% what I said, this was filmed around 5 months ago. I probably meant to say, when they’re that impacted that the collapse inwards it’s time to replace them. We did clean them to get them through.

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. This particular job was quoted by another tech. I did confirm the oil return lines weren’t plugged after replacing the compressor. If I ever need to replace a compressor in a Daikin I’ll always replace the oil line too.

I started doing it a few years back because I had enough of all those annoying cuts you get. Initially it was weird, but now it’s feels weird without them.

I was actually inspired to wear gloves after seeing you wearing them. Initially didn't like the loss of dexterity but after a while it's not noticeable. It's a game changer no more cuts from coils fins and sharp bits of metal, with the added benefit of not having dry crack skin in the winter months.

It’s weird to start off with for sure, but you very quickly get used to it. I don’t notice they’re on anymore.

@@hvacraustraliaI bet the misso would lol

Thanks mate.

Yeah, it’s unfortunately very common.

I didn’t realise until somebody mentioned something, but this video and my latest one uploaded as SD. I film everything in 4K but it had to do with an upload setting that was determined by my wifi quality. I’ve adjusted that now so from next week HD and 4K will be available.

@hvacraustralia cheers legend

Turning vanes help turbulence to get you a more stable static pressure down the duct but its still shite. That cowling not being there in the first place is a joke, one of the first questions we got asked in mitsi course 😂

😂 it’s fucked no matter which way to look at it. My last suggestion was to relocate the YKB and P Series units outside, turn the PUHY in the corner to face the wall with a similar set up to the other two and cut out that acoustics crap. Or remove the roof 😂

It would help for sire. If my static reading was closer to 60Pa we could have suggested it, but I don’t think vanes would drop it that much unfortunately.

Sorry mate, I don’t believe so currently. Are you based in Aus?

Yeah, 100% adding the cowl increased the airflow. My thought process for removing it after was that the units will decrease the frequency of the compressor to hit their target evap and condensing temps and have a lot of safety’s in place to protect the compressor. The fan motor doesn’t have those safety’s and if I left the cowl on with a static of 130Pa I didn’t know how long before the fan motor would be damaged pushing against that much of a restriction. The capacity of the units won’t be 100% because the unit won’t be able to ramp up the compressor but they shouldn’t lose another fan motor this way. This place isn’t quick on making decisions.

I did measure at multiple points the first time around without the cowl and there was a marginal difference in static measurements. From the reading I’ve done on this it does appear measuring either side of the fan within a meter or so is the correct spot. Regardless, I doubt any spot I measured would have given me a reading under 60Pa 😂

I take me previous comment back, you’re right. I should have measured further down the duct for a more accurate average reading. Cheers.

It’s brilliant 😂 not straight up as the roof ridge is directly above it, but going out through the roof was my first suggestion to them.

I’m done with this job 😂