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HVACR AUS
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2022
Commercial HVACR technician from Melbourne, Australia.
Enquiries: hvacrtechaustralia@gmail.com
Enquiries: hvacrtechaustralia@gmail.com
I Was On-Call For Back-to-Back 38 Degree Days
I had 5 call outs in total over the two days.
KAIWEETS KTI-W01 Thermal Imaging Camera: kaiweets.com/en-au/products/kti-w01-handheld-thermal-camera
Use HVACRAUS for 15% off.
I like the camera but I also got it for free. Please do your own research before making a decision.
#thermalcamera #hvac #kaiweets
KAIWEETS KTI-W01 Thermal Imaging Camera: kaiweets.com/en-au/products/kti-w01-handheld-thermal-camera
Use HVACRAUS for 15% off.
I like the camera but I also got it for free. Please do your own research before making a decision.
#thermalcamera #hvac #kaiweets
มุมมอง: 1 687
วีดีโอ
A Few Jobs From Multiple Sites: Ep 6
มุมมอง 1.5K21 วันที่ผ่านมา
Job 1: Service call for a Temperzone split ducted tripping the breaker. Job 2: Pumping down a Fujitsu VRF heat recovery unit so the Mech team can replace an indoor unit.
Temperzone / 37kW Package Unit isn’t Heating the Space
มุมมอง 1.2K28 วันที่ผ่านมา
Service call for this package unit not heating the space.
Mitsubishi Electric / I Finally Return With The Bell Mouth Cowls
มุมมอง 1Kหลายเดือนก่อน
It’s taken months, but I’ve finally returned to install the cowls on the YKB unit as a tester.
Daikin VRV 5 / U4 & E7 Faults
มุมมอง 2Kหลายเดือนก่อน
I attended site to replace the control board on a VRV 5 Heat Pump system after another tech had diagnosed it as faulty. There wasn't much information on the job notes so I decided to start from scratch.
Daikin / High-wall Split System Won’t Turn On
มุมมอง 2.6Kหลายเดือนก่อน
Service call for this Daikin high-wall unit not heating a classroom.
Temperzone / More Issues With This 55kW Package Unit
มุมมอง 2.1Kหลายเดือนก่อน
Found this package unit to be displaying a fault condition on the BMS during a maintenance
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 7102 Fault
มุมมอง 1.9K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Service call for this City Multi YJM Heat Recovery unit in a 7102 error code.
Daikin VRV II / Heat Recovery System Has Performance Issues
มุมมอง 1.8K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
It was noted on a maintenance by another tech that this system wouldn't perform when all indoor units were running, but as they dropped out some this supply air temps were better.
A Few Jobs From Multiple Site: Ep 5
มุมมอง 1.3K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Job 1: Replacing two 12uf capacitors and investigating other issues on an older Apac Package unit. Job 2: Replacing a noisey indoor fan motor on a Mitsubishi Electric GA high-wall split system.
Daikin VRV 6 / My First Time Connecting the Type 4 Checker to a Daikin VRV R
มุมมอง 1.9K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
I was here to carry out port checks, add an additional 1kg of R410a and confirm correct operation of this new VRV 6.
Actron Air / Two New Package Units with E45 Faults
มุมมอง 2.5K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
I was the third person to look at these two newly installed 15kW Actron Air Package Units. Originally they were displaying an E60 fault.
A Few Jobs From Multiple Sites: Ep 4
มุมมอง 1.3K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Complication video. Job 1: Replacing a faulty Skope fridge controller. Job 2: Setting fan speeds to two Actron Air Tri Capacity package units. Job 3: Replacing a faulty Hitachi ISPM (inverter) board. Enjoy.
Actron Air / Airflow Issues on a 71kW Tri-Capacity Package Unit
มุมมอง 2.6K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Actron Air / Airflow Issues on a 71kW Tri-Capacity Package Unit
Temperzone / I Had the Replacement Outdoor Fan Only to Find the PCB Was Now Blown
มุมมอง 1.4K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Temperzone / I Had the Replacement Outdoor Fan Only to Find the PCB Was Now Blown
Mitsubishi Electric / Leak Search on a City Multi PURY-YNW
มุมมอง 2.5K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Mitsubishi Electric / Leak Search on a City Multi PURY-YNW
Daikin / Compressor is Ramping Down After 10 Minutes
มุมมอง 4.4K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Daikin / Compressor is Ramping Down After 10 Minutes
Temperzone / Replacing a Drive Pulley on a 65kW Package Unit
มุมมอง 1.2K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
Temperzone / Replacing a Drive Pulley on a 65kW Package Unit
Daikin VRV-S / New VRV-S System isn’t Heating the Space
มุมมอง 2.3K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
Daikin VRV-S / New VRV-S System isn’t Heating the Space
Daikin / 27kW Package Unit is Covered in Ice
มุมมอง 4.4K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
Daikin / 27kW Package Unit is Covered in Ice
Fujitsu Airstage / Pumping Down a 3 Pipe VRF to Add an Extra Indoor Unit
มุมมอง 2.1K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fujitsu Airstage / Pumping Down a 3 Pipe VRF to Add an Extra Indoor Unit
Apac / System Ran But Then Blew an Outdoor Fuse
มุมมอง 1.7K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Apac / System Ran But Then Blew an Outdoor Fuse
Mitsubishi Electric / Fan Replacement on a PUHZ-YKM & Static Pressure Measurements
มุมมอง 1.9K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Mitsubishi Electric / Fan Replacement on a PUHZ-YKM & Static Pressure Measurements
Mitsubishi Electric / Replacing the Outdoor Coil on a City Multi VRF
มุมมอง 3.7K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Mitsubishi Electric / Replacing the Outdoor Coil on a City Multi VRF
Daikin / Repairing an E3 Fault on a Multi Inverter
มุมมอง 3.3K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Daikin / Repairing an E3 Fault on a Multi Inverter
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 6831 Fault Turned into a Lot More
มุมมอง 2.9K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 6831 Fault Turned into a Lot More
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 3
มุมมอง 2.1Kปีที่แล้ว
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 3
An MCCB can most definitely trip due to high ambient air temps,it can get rather warm inside an enclosure like that one especially on a hot day under heavy load conditions.
Those hplp switches may have not reset just because the ambient was so high that the reset diff was never achieved,or just took forever to achieve. But I’d have likely changed em anyway , like you . Decent video mate, will subscribe 👍🏻🇬🇧
Peak summer also here in Wellington NZ (23c) Ha ha. 38c 🥵
It’s was a rough few days 😂
Say where did you buy that AC solution wash soap & roughly how much was it ?
I purchased it from Kirby HVACR. I can’t remember the exact price but I believe it was around $50-$80 per bag.
@@hvacraustralia Ouch well that's isn't Cheap, isn't there other cleaner's that can be used ? like simple green or CLR etc ?
You ever seen a Temperzone plug up the screens before the orifices? Had one at one of our sites, plugged the liquid line solid with what was like tarry lint just after the outdoor coil orifice. Tripping on LP Replaced that bit of pipe, put it back together and it ran fine. Came back later for a maintenance and it had plugged the screen at the indoor coil orifice. Put a biflow filter dryer in it yesterday (in hindsight we should have done that the first time), should have it sorted now but I'd love to know where all that shit came from.
brazing without nitrogen most likely
You should just remove that section of line and sweat in a straight through pipe. Always braze with nitro..
@JesseDoesHVAC it was a package unit, didn't look like it had been worked on previously. Unless the factory brazed without nitro but doubt it. Was bizzare that it somehow managed to plug a 3/8 liquid line solid
@tonymontana897 Yeah we did, removed the plugged bit and replaced. Went digging in it after we pulled it out to try and figure out what had plugged it. Would have been a pretty solid pressure differential across it (R410a), amazed it managed to plug the line solid.
I have seen it a few times but only partially blocked. I put it down to overheating the oil causing it to break down and block the strainers. Crazy to be fully blocked.
Good troubleshooting
LEV1 linear expansion valve
I was reconstrucing a VRV2 407 machine. Which i had in my workplace when i INV compressorreplaced, oil seperator and capillary tubes for oil return. a crane went right through it when put it back on the roof. So ended up replacing the condensor, fan, fan motor, 4way valve STD1 compressor and casing. I made a video of it which i will post at some stage what a work. Machine is running in my work place. When people ask me why not to replace such an old system, Pipe work in the building was all inside the walls. no way to replace suction pipe for a smaller one to get oil back to the roof with a 410 vrv..... Its some work but nice to do....thanks for this video. Mades me remember the nice parts of job.
Oh awesome, I’d be keen to watch the video! Massive job mate. Yeah, it’s usually the same situation, pipes run internally etc. The repairs can be fun jobs though.
So do you work for Mitsubishi or are you a contractor ? Can anyone get access to the Mitsubishi software and do what you do on the laptop ?
I recently gone out on my own, but I have worked for Mitsubishi Electric in the past and I still sub-contract out to their commissioning team. But yes, anyone can get access to the software and plug in. It does take a lot of work to understand the data but once you do they’re a lot of fun to work on.
Doesn't it really suck how the customer ends up footing the bill for the incompetence of workmanship and stupid new technology that is B press fitting in refrigeration systems. The customer paid top dollar for that install, only to have to put in a service call for it not performing some time after. It should run flawlessly for at least 10 years and should never have a gas leak if it was plumbed the right way. I'd forget that b press garbage and do it the old fashioned way with oxy and silver solder. It will last forever.
100%. You still see systems 25-30 years old still working nicely in the field. When they’re installed and maintained correctly they just keep going.
I don’t understand your doing pressure test then using ur gas tester to check for leaks?
I filmed this a while ago so my memory of this isn’t great, but the unit would have had some refrigerant left in the system. Usually if that’s the case, I’ll pump up with nitrogen, test my leak detector again the Schrader to confirm it picks up the refrigerant and then go looking. If it’s completely flat you need to get either trace gas or add a bit of refrigerant and then nitrogen.
@@hvacraustralia thanks for the reply, love the videos too mate. What do you think about using an ultrasonic leak detector instead?
Thank mate, glad you’re enjoying them. I’ve never had the opportunity to use one before. I’d love to get my hands on one someday to try them out. Have you used one?
@ not yet mate but would also like to get one. Would work well I reckon for using pressure testing with nitrogen to find a leak
For the fridge you can always cover one side of the coil with a wet paper towel or rag to minimise dust.
You really needed a wind sock or something for your microphone, first half of the video was almost unbearable.
I did try using a seperate microphone with a wind shield on it, but when I did it cut half a audio annoying. I do need to look into something else.
Nice one mate, had a underbar the other day that would trip a 3phase breaker when the system was satisfied. Down to earth sump heater, was a good brain teaser
Thanks mate. Oh yeah, that’s a good one. Those jobs keep you on your toes 😂
Can you do a video on the power over there in Australia. I cannot believe you have 400v on a unit that small...what's your standard scales? Like here in usa its, single phase are 120v, 240v, 277v. Then you have 3phase are 115v, 208v 460v, 580v. I see alot of strange outputs but in very strange locations. Usually all residential power is 120/240v single phase and any commercial is either 208 3ph wye connect. Or it's 277/460v 3ph delta.
Australia is way simpler than the dozens of different voltages you use over there. Residential is usually single phase 230V. Bigger houses can get 3 phase 230/400V. All commercial is going to be 3 phase 230/400V. Industrial is the same, but you can start to get 600V (something around there) but it's rare. Usually at that point you're looking at big mining stuff that'll run on the low kilovolt range. 1000V or something. Makes everything way easier as all your equipment will run anywhere, unless it's three phase and you've only got single phase. Cables are smaller. No risk of choosing the wrong equipment for the supply voltage, no big transformers needed.
@@Thermoelectric7 thanks bud
Thanks for the vid! Did you have to remove the line set? Or can u remove fan motor without having to remove the line set?
@hvacraustralia you have the part number for the new fan motor??
No worries mate. Yes, you can remove the fan motor without disconnecting the copper pipe work. I don’t have the part number sorry mate.
Did you mean to say that the washable filters are designed to be thrown away?
I can’t remember 100% what I said, this was filmed around 5 months ago. I probably meant to say, when they’re that impacted that the collapse inwards it’s time to replace them. We did clean them to get them through.
If you’re really in a pinch and can’t get 12uf, wire 2x 6uf caps in parallel and it will get you out of trouble, plus a lot easier to get your hands on them.
Dude looks very low all the way from CA turn it in to standard 😁
Awesome video. Just a thought ,to find out how and why the compressor failed,the oil return lines and oil filter can get blocked by the oil receivers.unsweat them and blow them out.there is one for each compressor.
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. This particular job was quoted by another tech. I did confirm the oil return lines weren’t plugged after replacing the compressor. If I ever need to replace a compressor in a Daikin I’ll always replace the oil line too.
Why do you wear gloves all the time?
I started doing it a few years back because I had enough of all those annoying cuts you get. Initially it was weird, but now it’s feels weird without them.
I was actually inspired to wear gloves after seeing you wearing them. Initially didn't like the loss of dexterity but after a while it's not noticeable. It's a game changer no more cuts from coils fins and sharp bits of metal, with the added benefit of not having dry crack skin in the winter months.
It’s weird to start off with for sure, but you very quickly get used to it. I don’t notice they’re on anymore.
@@hvacraustraliaI bet the misso would lol
Good job tech
Thanks mate.
Sat on wood? 🪵 0:38
Yeah, it’s unfortunately very common.
that view is amazing
What's happened to the video quality. 720p?
I didn’t realise until somebody mentioned something, but this video and my latest one uploaded as SD. I film everything in 4K but it had to do with an upload setting that was determined by my wifi quality. I’ve adjusted that now so from next week HD and 4K will be available.
@hvacraustralia cheers legend
I know a little something something about air and the turbulence im feeling it from here. 😂 GL g that aint getting fixed.
Turning vanes help turbulence to get you a more stable static pressure down the duct but its still shite. That cowling not being there in the first place is a joke, one of the first questions we got asked in mitsi course 😂
😂 it’s fucked no matter which way to look at it. My last suggestion was to relocate the YKB and P Series units outside, turn the PUHY in the corner to face the wall with a similar set up to the other two and cut out that acoustics crap. Or remove the roof 😂
Maybe some guide vanes in the duct bend would help.
It would help for sire. If my static reading was closer to 60Pa we could have suggested it, but I don’t think vanes would drop it that much unfortunately.
In your company job vecancy is there ❤
Sorry mate, I don’t believe so currently. Are you based in Aus?
Given the static pressure increased, isn't that a sign that the airflow increased substantially? Still restricted by the outlet of the ductwork but it seemed like the cowl definitely helped
Yeah, 100% adding the cowl increased the airflow. My thought process for removing it after was that the units will decrease the frequency of the compressor to hit their target evap and condensing temps and have a lot of safety’s in place to protect the compressor. The fan motor doesn’t have those safety’s and if I left the cowl on with a static of 130Pa I didn’t know how long before the fan motor would be damaged pushing against that much of a restriction. The capacity of the units won’t be 100% because the unit won’t be able to ramp up the compressor but they shouldn’t lose another fan motor this way. This place isn’t quick on making decisions.
I think you should have tried measuring the static pressure farther along the duct, closer to the outlet sound muffler. If the static pressure is higher farther along the duct, it would indicate that more airflow is coming out of the unit. Even though it wouldn't align with the manufacturer's requirements, I think increasing its maximum airflow would greatly help the unit.
I did measure at multiple points the first time around without the cowl and there was a marginal difference in static measurements. From the reading I’ve done on this it does appear measuring either side of the fan within a meter or so is the correct spot. Regardless, I doubt any spot I measured would have given me a reading under 60Pa 😂
I take me previous comment back, you’re right. I should have measured further down the duct for a more accurate average reading. Cheers.
I forgot how marvelous that ducting was. Presumably running it straight up and out the roof isn't possible
It’s brilliant 😂 not straight up as the roof ridge is directly above it, but going out through the roof was my first suggestion to them.
The frustration is real, I feel ya
I’m done with this job 😂
Just started my HVACR apprenticeship. Can't wait to be as good as you. Love the content mate!!!!!!
Thanks mate, glad you’re enjoying the videos. Good luck with your apprenticeship. It’s a great trade.
Hey mate I bought the Avanti 3.5kw Mitsubishi split system package and it did not come with copper insulated pipes. Is that supposed to happen and I have to purchase a 3rd party? Thank you
Hey mate. Yes, that’s normal. You need to purchase the copper separately.
@@hvacraustralia Thank You!
manual says 24 hours microns test buddy
Mitsubishi Electric’s manual says 1h for their YNW HR units. In the end, I do what I can with what time I’m given.
I didn’t diagnose it “Apparently displaying U4 & wasn’t much details on the notes “ I feel ya mate hahaha Service notes “I went there and there was a blinking light so I quote for boards and compressor and a gas leak just be be sure hahahah
😂 it is like that sometimes. I usually just do some quick confirmation now wherever I go to something I didn’t diagnose at the start.
Nice one mate
Thanks mate.
Good thinking swapping over the blade.
Had the same thing with those indoor switches at an agecare place in another state. Annoying but always the first thing to check now.
"It's draughty!" *Turns switch off* 🤣
No one could tell me why it was off either 😂
I love VRV❤❤
They’re great fun to work on.
Handy tip If it had already been commissioned previously (knows its head count). You can click reset after 2 minutes and it will bypass the 15 minute initialisation, just don’t hold reset 👍
Ah that’s good to know! Thanks for sharing that mate.
hey mate do you think it’d be possible to check on your camera if you can do higher resolution video, it’d really make the videos look nicer
Thanks for brining this up. I film everything on the 4K setting but I’ve now realised there was a setting that determines the quality of the upload depending on my wifi connection. I’ve change this now. Annoyingly the next video will also be SD but after that HD and 4K will be back. Cheers mate.
Love my vrv's. Once you get a hang of things, they're super easy to work on
100%. The hard work at the start absolutely makes it worth it. A lot of fun to work on.
Excellent video and beautifully explained 👏
Thanks mate. Glad you’re enjoying it 🤙
Awesome work mate
Thanks mate.
Great videos mate ! Keep them coming 👍🏻
Thanks mate. Appreciate it.
My favourite Daikin series
Mine too mate! And I really like you. FVMA is my favourite too. I am on your page too! - Riley
@ yep Good to see another old girl go again
@@GeneralAvitation By girl do you mean me? - Riley
or the AC?
@@suezq74 no the ac
Love Daikin!
That brown mark around the connector pins is just flux residue from soldering. Sometimes connections on a PCB have to be touched up after the complete board went through automatic assembly (sometimes if the whole board is surface mount and there are just a few connectors they will just be soldered by hand). Nothing to worry about, as is is not conductive. You can clean it with 99% IPA or PCB cleaner and a brush.
That’s handy to know! Thanks for the tip mate. Appreciate it.
Nice video... Most likely a sneaky rat/bug for sure in this scenario. Well done on taking the time to actually pull things apart and testing them... Plenty of donkeys out there would just suggest replacing the whole unit with new. (Purely because they are inexperienced) Excellent work 🤙
Thanks mate, appreciate it.
come off it you slag. you struggle to connect your gauges to the unit, i have seen you