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Thanks for the info. My setup allows the needed arc for dialling in the caster and toe. I think you mean 10 to 20 degrees rather than minutes? 10 to 20 degrees caster is a lot of off set. Maybe a copy and paste from you without reading first? This is old school buddy. My strut rods don’t have that amount of adjustment, nor do I have tyre to guard clearance for those kinds of caster angles. My caster camber tool allows a max of 11 degrees of + or - which my strut rods wouldn’t adjust all the way to anyway. 3 degrees of pos castor is heaps for these old non power steering rumblers.

@@Doctoradhd1 Happy 2025. There is 60 minutes in one degree. 15 minutes = 1/4 degree. 15 minutes more caster on passenger side is a good starting point for road crown compensation. For example drivers side 3 degrees caster and passenger side 3 degrees 15 minutes. I have the same bubble gauge as you, the camber gauge on it can be adjusted/calibrated have you done that ?

Happy new year! Oh, now I get ya. Yes that makes sense. What you’ve described as a sensible off set for road crown, is exactly how I have it! Yes I calibrate it using a spirit level against my garage wall if you know what I mean? I Level the camber bubble with it on a level vertical plane.

@@Doctoradhd1 What i did with mine is- I nailed a nail into my wooden toolbox which is mounted to the garage wall. I then hung a plumb line from the nail and nailed in a nail at the top of the plumb line and another nail in the bottom of the plumb line. I then placed a straight edge up against the two nails and the gauge against the outside of the straight edge. Now it is placed against a true vertical, better than me trusting a builders level which I'm not sure of it's accuracy. My camber part of the gauge was off slightly. I then removed the cover plate screws and next to the camber vial on each end is an adjustment screw. To adjust the vial you turn one screw out an eighth of a turn and the other screw at the other end in an eighth of turn and repeat until it is reading zero.

Great info JustMe. I’ll look into that procedure on the gauge. My ride is tracking pretty sweet after my adjustments and chosen caster, camber and toe. I’m guessing my gauge was on the money to begin with, but I’m going to check that gauge like you’ve suggested. Thanks for the heads up on that.

I’ll have to look around for something like that. Since tacking the eccentric washes once setup using the caster/camber gauge, the camber setting holds until it’s time for a new alignment.

@@jackreacher. I’ll take 9.3 outa 10! Thanks for dropping by and leaving a comment.

Thanks very much for the feedback. I enjoy sharing the info. We need to keep the passion alive for our old school muscle. I’d love an old hot rod project. I just don’t have the space to squeeze in another ride. Maybe one day. Cheers.

@@Doctoradhd1 =) i get it space to work is a premium always , and affordale projects are getting to be a day dream when let your mind roam , cheers and see ya next posting .

@@matsibley7832 so happy folks are being helped by my content. Thanks for the feedback and I hope your motion rig is bringing you joy!

Hi Kevin.. Found it.. in must have been a bit punch drunk with all the pre Xmas activities.. ( powered by ADHD ) -> It is well shown in Part20B at 6:06 ... Thanks for the videos !

@@A.GeorgeMenendez glad you found what you needed George. With so many videos, it can be hard to know which one has the content you need. I need to find a way to better archive them, so the relevant info in the video is easy to see in the description or the like.

Outrageous prices.

@@donaldward6524 have you tried turning it off and on again?

@ I literally just fixed it, I had to change my display to 100%

@@roberthirshfield3571 I do not own a flow bench to do any testing. I will however do some mark to mark times in my car before I install these heads onto my engine. I’ll install these heads and do the same. I will video both tests and put the videos on the channel in the coming weeks.

I just finished mine up all that I’m going to do now I’m sending to the machine shop for guide inserts and hardened exhaust seats an new ferrea valves thanks for all the information

@ well done Robert. You’ll be really happy with the result. The set of 302 heads on my car I ported a couple of years back, made a marked difference once I’d ported them. Noticeable increase in torque.

Bro, get that shit built!

@Doctoradhd1 100% and you sir are an inspiration

Nice job Robert. Wow. Bad luck about the metal in the eye. Take care there. Just as a side note, I reckon if your motor is just a street engine, I would just do a basic chamfer around all the combustion chambers, to take the sharp edge off them. I wouldn’t worry about the major valve deshrouding Iv’e undertaken. But it’s up to you. Good luck mate.

Would you install these on a block with dome pistons open chamber about 10.1/4 to one

I believe the compression will be around 12.5 to 1

@@roberthirshfield3571 I’m not familiar with open combustion chamber heads modifications. They flow better than closed chamber heads in any case. I’d ask that question on the appropriate Cleveland cylinder head forum.

Sounds like it’s still not setup. Did you try the universal controller app as an alternative to Gremlin? Link to that video in description.

Hi Donald. Yes mate I do. 30amp fuses between each controller and motor. Have a look at this video. th-cam.com/video/tCrJvdUmdn8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gSsl6CKRdREX_fmH You can see the fuses wired between the controllers and the motors. I have fused the neg side, but it really doesn’t matter. Neg or Pos can be fused.

How did you go Robert? Did you go the whole hog on the combustion chambers to de-shroud the valves, or did you opt to just give them a smooth and a bevel around the top of the chamber walls?

@ I haven’t got to the combustion chamber yet I cleaned up the casting edges an the intake ledge where you showed I haven’t been able to get back on them I’ll try tomorrow thanks oh I gasket match the intake an heads

Hi mate, glad the series is helping you and great work on porting your heads. You’ll be very happy with the results. My 302 heads have stock intake and exhaust valve sizes. 2.05 and 1.65. Take your time porting and enjoy the experience. It’s a great feeling getting results from old iron you have worked on.

I think thinning the valve stem bosses helps velocity around the short side. It’s pretty much standard in modern cylinder heads. If you look at the pavtek cylinder head cnc program for the Aussie 302 heads the bosses are thinned like modern bosses. Just do it!

@ when I take theee to the machine shop there not going to have a problem if I need new guide inserts

@ have a look at how the bosses are thinned on mine and have a look at my friends intake and exhaust bosses in pt 11. There is still a lot of material left for the valve stem guides. The aim is to thin and tapper them for less turbulence in the bowl.

Greggy! You da man!

Mate, you should do a basic clean on the AFD’s any way. A smooth on those can actually really increase their already good flow out of the box. Hard to say time wise. Because I’m filming the whole process, it stops the flow and slows things down a lot. With the CC mod, I’d estimate 1.5 hrs per cylinder. That’s all the steps for each cylinder. You’d get quicker as you go.

A lot of info on the net. Seems like sensible clean up of all runners, valve boss guide thinning/shaping, bowl blend and short side radius smoothing. That’s all I’m doing. Can say from real world experience, after I did these steps mentioned to my current 302 CC heads currently sitting on my 393.,It made enough difference to suddenly have traction issues in second gear on my car combo.

@@roberthirshfield3571 hey mate. I have never attempted to block off the crossover. Seen a few folks doing it with molten metal and all sorts of stuff. I’ve thought about stuffing it with steel wool and then applying a high heat steal epoxy. Smoothing it and blending it with the bowl after it sets. But you wouldn’t want it to fail, or it’s goodbye to that cylinder. Not sure if it’s worth the effort.

I’m trying cargo thermosteel I filled the hole it’s hardened up reall strong so far

Keep us posted on that method. I’d be real interested how it works out.

@@roberthirshfield3571 make sure you blend the bottom of the valve seat cut into the bowls on both bowls. Get rid of any ridges into the throat, but don’t mess with the throat size. The whole idea of this clean up and removing obstructions is to help with velocity.

@@Doctoradhd1 thank you that’s what I’ve done

Bit of a blanket statement. I’d say it all depends.

@@Doctoradhd1 2V Cleveland heads are junk. Not worth investing any money in them. On top of that they're low performance heads.

The intake valves in these heads I purchased have the back cut.

Yes! He gave me a great example of a back to back dyno tests they did before and after this mod. I'll cut and paste the conversation for you. I spent an hour today, shooting a video of me undertaking Craig's mod on my first combustion chamber. Video is uploading as I type this and will be published on my channel tonight. Here is an excerpt from my conversation with Craig about this mod with an example of what you've asked about. Craig - "I'll also highlight the areas on an actual head for you. Its a very simple mod and yes it can be done better, but bang for buck, for a home port job with no flow bench, it gets gains and detonation resistance. One particular car I did for example was an XY. It had a 351 stock bottom end and stock 302 heads, so compression was up there. A 2800 stally, stock factory iron 4 barrel intake, square-bore adaptor, 750 vac Holley, tri y 1-3/4 pipes and a 2.5" single exhaust. He was beginning to lose a cam lobe. I did a cam swap, (old cam was a Speed-pro CS173R). I fitted a crow cam 21649 and we dyno'd it. It made 265rwhp. It did suffer from detonation and I couldn't get a good timing curve into it. I talked him into removing the heads to do the chambers, as it also wept coolant at the front coolant passages. The heads were bone stock apart from valve springs and retainers. I did the quick chamber mods and a real quick bowl blend. The pistons were of course 20 odd thou down the bore, so quench was not optimal! Back on the dyno it made 282rwhp and took a good timing curve. Not big horse power, but ok from an essentially stock 351 with a mild cam. For a long time now I do the chamfers on any closed chamber head engine, even if I don't do any unshrouding at bore walls or any other porting at all".

Preach it brother!

Good O’l Ftype. Getting hard to find. I have a built C5 case with twin coolers.

You could be right. Saw 245cfm somewhere. These figures seem to change depending on which forum you read.

4V heads still a horrific design for any street engine under 400 ci and under 6000 rpm , 2V port size much much better .

@JosephCowen-fz8vj obviously I’m running 2V heads and they are great for my setup which is a street driven car. I have read quite a bit of material that says if the 4V heads are cammed correctly even on stock stroke they are a great street car as well with added higher RPM potential. Really depends on who you believe on all those different forums. Plenty say they run them on 351 motors with the right cam and love them on the street.

@@Doctoradhd1 yes those 4V ports are just way too big , there's a Ford US data report on the Boss 302 head that has the same ports and valves , those 302s could not pull the skin off custard at the lights , poor port verlocity, fuel reversion , Ford used clear intake manifolds to try and see what was going on , they observed under 4500 rpm fuel comming out of suspension and dribbling down port walls, fuel reversion and negative shock waves bouncing around ports . I really don't think those port sizes are are really any good on smaller motors , plus the Boss 302s had 2 X 1250 CFM Dominators or 2 X inline Autolite 4 barrel carbies . Under 4500 it made little HP and no Torque . The Cleveland 2V 302 closed chamber is the best factory head, 4V US valves blended bowl, smoothed out short turn port radius, Even the 2V has bigger ports than a big block chev ! Port verlocity and clean flow is the best . I got a 403 ci Small Block Olds I built a few years back , it ran a Offenhauser Duel Quad Low rise intake . I used 2 X 390 CFM Holley 4 barrels . That kept port verlocity up , throttle response was magic and when all 8 barrels were open it was still 780 CFM , but just crusing around it's running on two sets of primarys front and back of motor , so it's like 2 X two barrels at 390 CFM total

I’m definitely on your page Joseph. I just love my old school clevo 2V iron.