วีดีโอ

Alpine comes 230 watts standard while the kicker comes stock at 350 watt peak

Handling more watts doesnt necessarily mean better sounding speakers.

So changing the ground point fixed it. I can't believe it's 100% gone, like my brain expects the sounds. But I can't hear it, even with gain higher than usual.

Yup usually reorganization of the wirring cleans up that whine noise. Always keep the rca wire away from the power wires. And pay close attention to installs on bmws since our battery is located in the trunk on the e36/46 whenever installing aftermarket headunits and running rca cables make sure to pull your rca routed thru the driver side on the vehicle since the factory runs our B+ wire stretching from that trunk mounted battery all the way up front thru the wire wall and into the engine bay. I see this happening all the time on bmws where shops and people install systems! I’ve made the same mistake myself once too but that was a decade ago lol

@@onesikm3 that's good info. I read about this, but didn't pay attention because I didn't care at the time. Now, I care. The noise is still there, but much quieter, now. I have the RCAs for the speakers going to the from the driver's side to the head unit. But, I have my RCAs for the subwoofer, class D, running from the passenger side. I'll see if unplugging the sub from power makes a difference. Thanks again for the video, and the reply. I appreciate it.

Not at all. The ground loop isolators took out 100% of the "static" without any degradation of signal. Granted, I have a DSP and aftermarket amplifier in my setup so I can only speak to my setup as I know others have experienced signal degradation

Have you checked the alternator to make sure it is recharging your new battery? If alternator is good, I would check IBS. If IBS is good, you might have a parasitic drain somewhere. Thanks for supporting the channel.

If the battery is good, I would say the next culprit is typically the alternator. If the alternator is "overcharging" the battery I would make sure that your alternator is good. Overcharging the battery will significantly shorten the life of that battery as well. People think if you don't see lights flickering on your dash, your alternator is good but that is not always the case. If it turns out your alternator is good, I would then check the IBS as it is responsible for monitoring and distributing battery voltage. If all that checks out, as a last ditch effort, you might have a parasitic drain on the battery from one of the modules in the car not going to sleep properly when you turn off the car. Thanks for supporting the channel.

@@bimmermodz1364 oh man you are very cool thanks for answering me, your advice is very helpfulness

No worries. Any time. Glad I can help! :)

The new battery I replaced the old battery with has the same spec. The IBS which monitors and distributes voltage is already spec to old battery which is the same as new battery. If you install a battery with a higher or lower cranking Amperage rating or switch between Lead Acid and an AGM battery, you need to code (program) the DME. Thank you for supporting the channel.

@@bimmermodz1364 thx for the reply. i installed an h9 agm in my 645ci with 105 amp hours but my scanner only goes up to 90 ah for agm batteries. help please

Do you have a friend with either INSTA or INPA? Otherwise, I would upgrade scan tool.

Is your alternator good? If the alternator isn't recharging the new battery it will die fairly quickly depending on the draw. If your alternator is good, you might have a parasitic draw where one of the modules in your car is always on and doesn't go to sleep when you turn off your car. I would also check your IBS as well.

The brake lubricant is not only for the mounting "tabs" of the brake pads but also the "back" of the brake pad (never the pad itself of course). I would also lubricant the brake mounts on caliber along with caliber slide pins. Thank you for supporting the channel.

Ground Loop isolaters can definitely result in signal degradation at times. I always recommend installing the ground loop isolaters after the last device that is manipulating (not amplifying) the signal. In your case, it sounds like you're relying on the limited power from the HU which may not be enough if you're getting a degradation in signal. I would install an aftermarket amp to pump up the volume to your speakers. This way you amplify the cleaner sound you're getting so low volume will not be an issue. If you really want to customize the sound stage in your car, add a DSP too! Thank you for supporting the channel!

Yes. Check Ebay and save some $$$$. It is $89 on Ebay. Thanks for supporting the channel.

Thank you my friend. I created this video and channel to help save $$$ for car enthusiasts and DIYers like yourself. Thank you for subscribing and supporting the channel!

Thank you my friend. Yes, no need to go to dealer to replace battery. The Advanced auto parts store near me will not install an AGM battery. They will sell it to you but will not install. There are still many people who think you have to have the dealer register a new BMW battery which is simply not true. The latter is what the dealer wants you to think! Good luck on your install! Thank you for supporting the channel.

Not in my case. I was getting a little bit of a delayed start but other than that it just died on me. No CEL and pretty much no warning!

My 550i is 2011 (F10) but brake job is essentially the same regardless of vehicle and model. Hex bit size and/or bolt size on caliber might differ but steps are the same. On my 550i the rears have an Electronic Brake actuator which is a motor on the caliber that engages and disengages the E-brake. The electronic brake actuator needs to be retracted before the brake job and engaged again after the brake job. Good luck on your install. Thank you for supporting the channel!

If you drove the car enough to recharge the battery that is a fairly good sign. I would say if the discharging sign doesn't come back on the next couple days, you're in the clear and you just let the car sit too long without driving. When batteries are on the "outs" they will still charge up but they will discharge pretty fast. You will know over the next 2-3 days if this is happening or not. If not, you're good to go. I would at least start the car on a weekly basis or keep a trickle charger on it. Lastly, having the battery drain almost to empty like that wears out the battery cells prematurely. Thank you for supporting the channel!

@@bimmermodz1364 much appreciated for your feedback! Yes, I’ve been driving the car more often now and haven’t seen the discharging warning message since the day that it popped up! Thanks for the clarifications! Will sub’Ed for sure

Test the battery with an OBD2 scanner. For BMWs, I would recommend a BMW specific OBD2 scanner. That way, features like registering the battery can be completed through the OBD2 scanner. Thank you for supporting the channel.

Funny you should ask. The battery for my 550i has lasted thus far but I installed Advance Auto parts (DieHard) batteries in my 325i and 550i and they only lasted one year before they stopped holding a charge and had to replace. DieHard batteries are really SEARS batteries and you're right, they do not last long!

@@bimmermodz1364 I just replaced my battery with original BMW it was actually cheaper than any store around. My car is 2013 550i battery that I took out was installed back in 2014 that mean it lasted 9 years. One of the reasons why BMW end-up costing people more than any other battery BMW shop typically install it and they charge people $120 $150 + battery it can end up costing close to $400 to $500 But if you have ista+ you can buy it for $250 and install it your self for much cheaper than any buttery you can buy.

You're exactly right! Great point!

Have you tested your alternator to make sure it is recharging your battery? A dead battery will affect auxiliary functions of the car like door locks, seat controls, folding mirrors and such.

You're very welcome. Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate you supporting the channel!

@@bimmermodz1364 most definitely 💪🏾

I would add ground loop isolates at the amp. That way the sound processing from your EQ is already incorporated in the signal and that signal will run through ground loop isolators (closing any ground loops) before the signal is amplified and directed to your speakers.

@@bimmermodz1364 thank you!!! I appreciate the help bro! I hate going to the audio shops, they always trying to tax. I like doing my own stuff.

@@dukemaui91 No problem. Welcome. I know what you mean! DIY is the way to go! Thanks for supporting the channel!

I'm assuming your battery and alternator is in good working condition. If that is the case, I would check the IBS sensor. If that is okay, you might have a parasitic drain caused by a module not shutting down properly when you turn off your car, draining your battery. Once the battery drain gets low, it could trigger your alarm.

Hey. Did you check the IBS sensor?

@@bimmermodz1364 got it solved, it was my cluster. got a used set and reprogrammed it.

Thanks for the follow up and letting me know. Glad its fixed. I don't come across a parasitic drain from cluster that often. Nice work!

MAF sensors screw into the intake. No CELs and the air/fuel ratios function as BMW engineers intended. Thanks for supporting the channel. www.bimmermodz.com

My email is bimmermodz@gmail.com. If you send me your address, I will find out how much the shipping costs will be to send the intake to you from the United States. Thank you for supporting the channel. www.bimmermodz.com

I'm assuming you already checked the battery to make sure it is good. If that is the case, check to make sure your alternator is good. After that, I would check the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) cable, generally connected to the negative post of your battery and grounded to the chassis of car. Thank you for supporting the channel.

The setup is over 2 years strong at this point with zero issues! I'm pleasantly surprised at this bargain amplifier as it is loud as hell and has been very reliable. I will say the customer service for DS18 sucks but there is really no need to speak with them anyways! Also, I would not recommend this amplifier without installing a DSP with it! I really wanted to do this video just to show people that for $500 they can install a new 6 channel amp, DSP and new door and cabin speakers and have an incredible sounding and reliable system! If you want to get a feel for how the system sounds, I did a video on it. Doesn't do the system complete justice as it sounds alot better in person but will give you an idea nonetheless. Thank you for supporting the channel.

@@bimmermodz1364 cool ..I ll check it out ! As you no there are not many 6 ch amps , to my surprise. I have to use a 6 ch with this a audio control lci8 because I can not change my factory radio in my lexus which is a whole nother thing 😅 but I can get one on ebay for 279 Refurbished. With a 3 yr warranty but if it breaks again or was not fixed right like you said and I ve heard there customer service sucks !

Hey bro! Thank you. Visit bimmermodz.com if you haven't already. Thank you for supporting the channel. Much appreciated.

or should i go with the 2014 since the n63 is a newer model and eliminates all the old problems they faced with the older n63’s?

If the 2011 550i has had the CCP (Customer care package) and has decent low miles, it might be a decent option for you. My 550i is a 2011 and I haven't have any problems with it but it did have the CCP performed with previous owner and I bought it with low miles. With that being said, we have all heard the horror stories of the N63 engine! if the price difference isn't that bad, you're right about the 2014 correcting some of the prior issues mainly leaky valve stem seals and excess battery drain. A buddy of mine had an X5 and the engine seized entirely and he was stuck with a car he couldn't drive that he still owed 25k on! Ouch! Thanks for supporting the channel!

Mine is a 2011. I bought it because the CCP (Customer Care Package) was performed on it and it had low miles when I bought it. Even today, I only have 71k on it. I would say stay away from from a high mileage BMWs with N63 engine especially if it is from earlier years.

@@bimmermodz1364 honestly i wouldn’t care for 14’ both amazing cars i just didn’t want to deal with any extra unwanted problems, appreciate the feedback boss and i’ll be looking out for videos and ideas !

Thanks bro! Much appreciated.

hey bro! Appreciate the feedback. Thanks for supporting the channel.

Hey bro. car battery will not blow it. You'll be fine! If anything started to fail, it would be your alternator not strong enough to power all the electronics. No worries for just a DSP. Use the recommended fuse amperage. For 10 gauge wire, I wouldn't go over 40 amps. One of the most misconceptions is many people think the fuse on the power wire is collaborated for the "device" the wire is connected to but it actually for the wire itself. Obviously, the fuse will protect your equipment in case of a short but the fuse amperage is based on the wire! If the amperage on fuse is stronger than the power running through shorted wire, the fuse won't blow when you need it to. Hope this helps. Thank you for supporting the channel!

I would get a ground loop isolator for the "hiss" through the speakers. I had the same issue until I connected the ground loop isolators. Took the hiss away 100%. You can check out the video I did on ground loop isolators. For the subs under front seats. Taken into consideration that they are working (functioning properly), did you set the proper frequency for those channels which is channel 5 and channel 6. Let me know. Thanks for supporting the channel.

@@bimmermodz1364 I have tried everything. Doesn’t matter where I put the gain and level for channel 5&6 I get nothing from my woofers under the seats. Everything is connected just right. I just redone it just now and still no bass. For a while I bridged the connections together using channels 1-4 and I did have bass from the woofers but the sound was horrible.

Just curious. When is the last time you felt/heard the subs under the seats working? Could the subs be blown by any chance?

They work right now without the amplifier hooked up running off the stock amplifier. I used a multimeter to check for power to channels 5&6 and it does have power. Seems like there should be a 3rd set of rca’s for the subs or am I incorrect?

Yes. I didn't need to for my setup but you can. With any split signal, use quality cables to reduce any degradation of the signal