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You bet!

Glad it could help.

I’ve seen some cases where there is enough clearance for the ball joint to be driven up and out and still clear the axle, but most likely you’ll need to pull it. You could measure tip to top of the ball joint on your new control arm, and compare it to the distance from your control arm to the axle in the ball joint area. Then you’d know for this vehicle before trying.

Thanks for the info!

Since I don’t do these every day it’s probably 2-3 hours if all the parts are ready.

@@everydayfixes416 That's amazing.

Where are you located?

@@everydayfixes416 Boston, MA.

@@tedd7028 I’m in KS so shipping might make it counter productive

Assuming you mean torque for all the bolts. I use AllData

Which parts?

It is a manual transmission with computer controlled actuators. The failures are not always all components. Sometime an actuator can fail independently, in which case you can simply remove and replace. Many times the clutch drum fails and the actuators motors are fine.

I believe it’s just a little under 2 qts of Motocraft XT11QDC fluid.

Brand new pads often make noise until they are broke in

And also sometimes it’s just the metallic nature of the pads. You may try roughing the pads slightly.

I know what you mean, this is one of those jobs that definitely swayed my opinion from neutral to negative on these Escapes.

Glad it was helpful!

And the savings of not paying a shop!

Thanks

The axel is bolted to the axel tube through the 4 bolt flange and dust cover/seal plate, and then also the rotor is held inside the caliper. Nothing is going to come off on a hard corner.

Sorry to disappoint you, but a 4 lb slide hammer was the real world. In the right hand side I simply put a pry bar between the axel and pinion and popped it out.

Didn’t remove any clips, you can pop them out with a pry bar or a 4 lb slide hammer removed it just like you saw.

I have seen that before, this model doesn’t have the removable clips.

Welcome!

You bet!

Rockauto.com

The sheet metal screws I got from a local metal supplier for post frame buildings. But you can get them from ace hardware. Just look for the kind with metal and rubber washers.

Every once in a while I’ve seen the retainer ring slightly damaged that will prevent that last little bit and locking in. You can remove the axle and inspect that ring and the channel it rests in to make sure there’s no damage or debris. If it looks round still, and no debris present you make need to just give it a little more strength to push it into the locking position. Tap with a rubber mallet on the axel nut side sometimes works.

Yes making the video slows things way down, just trying to help others out! Thanks for the comment and tip on the straps.

Some vehicles are equipped with a bleed valve, some don’t have a radiator cap, what kind of vehicle/system are you looking for a video on?

Are the actuators removed? Is the clutch in a pre-locked condition?

Have you gotten any of the nuts off? With no starter and no axles, there shouldn’t be anything binding unless something fell inside. I wouldn’t think it could rust enough to seize up. Are your bell housing bolts still holding the case tight to the engine?

@@everydayfixes416 thanks for the reply I hadn’t taken any of the nuts off. I ended up solving the problem by tapping the flywheel with a rubber mallet. And spraying it with brake cleaner I’m not sure what was binding up, but then I was able to turn it

@@damonheilweil613 glad you got it moving! Putting them back on is a little bit challenging. Take your time and be patient.

@@everydayfixes416 thanks again for the assistance. After installing the new luk parts, Im getting a “whirring” noise. I checked the wheel bearings and they seem good. Is there anything that I may have misaligned or done incorrectly (like perhaps a specific order to unlock the forks) that would cause a metal rubbing noise?

@@damonheilweil613 the forks should not make that type of noise. The first thing that comes to mind is the slave cylinder/release bearing, was that replaced with new parts?

Kansas

There are special tools for locking the clutch drum back. I’d recommend either taking it to a transmission shop that’s familiar with the DPS6 and asking them to re-lock it. That’s not much labor for them so it should be that bad. The off brand Amazon tools are like $200+. I see a few on eBay also.

do you measure out 1.8qt or do you leave the fill plug open and stop when it starts to leak out of that fill plug?

I measured, and depending on how the vehicle is leveled it should be when it flows out the hole.

Glad it helped

Thank you

Sorry, I’m not sure what you mean by aviator? If you failed to unlock the clutches in the drum through the actuator motor holes with the spline tool, this could be an outcome.

@@everydayfixes416 I’m sorry I meant actuator

@@eskodaboss also if you don’t do the clutch point relearn for the tcm, it might have an issue going into gear. Most likely it’ll go in but slip. If you are getting no movement at all my first bet would be the drum wasn’t unlocked, second would be possibly the safety clips on the forks weren’t removed.

@@everydayfixes416 it was the old clutch, I did remove the clips off the forks, so the relearn would be the 15 spin by where the aviator goes ?

@@eskodaboss if it was the old clutch drum, then you’ve got to use the special tools and go through the locking procedure to reset the clutch drum in sequence. That’s before you install it back into the transmission. The parts in my video are pre-locked from the manufacturer. Then you release the clutches through the actuator holes after the drum is installed. The clutch point relearn is done with the software, in my case the free download of Forscan.

I got the parts from 2 different sources. Tasca Ford online and Transcend transmission parts online. Saved about $500 as opposed to buying from the stealership

I got the replacement from CD4Car online. I first called the stealership to validate the model number of the unit to make sure I got the correct replacement. The radio replacement was for a customer, to my knowledge it’s still working fine.

Thank you

I’m glad it could help you determine your issue.

Sometimes a faulty pressure switch can also cause issues. If you are going to do the solenoids make sure to do the switch and the torque converter clutch solenoid like in this video.

@@everydayfixes416 turned out my second drum the clutches where eaten and part of the second clutch assembly got eaten, and went threw my torque converter. So bought a new used transmission and slapped her in.

@@jamesalton1469 glad you found the source of the problem!

Thanks!

I’m glad you got yours fixed!

Hopefully you get yours going

Could be that you have a bad ground connection or broken wiring somewhere. Or if you have the swap the wires and use the key switch in the same direction then you have a bad switch.

If you are referring to switching the wires directly to the motor then you likely have a bad ground or a bad interlock switch.