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Absolutely. One of the more useful addictions though!

On mine it was a normal thread so I had to hold the tool I made with force in the clockwise direction and loosen anticlockwise. As you could see by my first attempt, it took a fair bit of force to undo it. A good long piece of fairly solid flat bar will be your friend to hold it against a decent length of breaker bar.

Great solution 👍 I am working on a transit 2004 you wouldn’t happen to know if it’s normal threads on that old gem 😉 Thank you for the video 🙏

@@orarinningimundarson219 Sorry, I don't have an answer on that model. Only one I have had to do, hence not having the proper tool and having to hack it. Probably worth assuming it is a normal thread and give it a go. While it was pretty tight, it wasn't thread damaging tight. If you are putting that kind of torque on it, maybe worth looking for more specific information.

I’ll give it a go 👍 Thanks man 🙏

Thanks Philip. The mk7 vans are brilliant. They keep going and going. Haven't really done much to it other than general wearable components and some welding on the dreaded rusty sills.

@@projectbuild9784 Yes i do love mine. It's been a great workhorse. Had a welder do all the cills on mine just finished today. Had an egr valve replaced & it's lost power. He's back in the morning to try sort it for mot tomorrow eek. Must admit i'd neglected maintenance quite a bit & it's all come back. Mostly sorted now. Fingers crossed the mechanic will sort this new issue. Cheers

@@projectbuild9784 Passed with no advisories. Mechanic is brilliant! 👍🙂

@@philiptromp231 Great! Another year of happy motoring!

1. Pipe diameter doesn't matter as it is just the pulses of pressure that it is detecting. As the gas pressures down and hits the tube, it pressures the air inside the sensor and that causes the piezo sensor to output a small voltage. Similarly if you get low pressure regions, it sucks the air out the sensor and the piezo will read a negative voltage. These voltages don't mean anything in a calibrated fashion... only that you can see regular pulses in a working engine and irregular pulses when there is a problem. 2. Anywhere you have variations in pressure, this should work as long as you are able to get it positioned suitably. It isn't a pressure meter though which will give calibrated data. 3. Any piezo sensor / sounder on ebay will do you. I purposely didn't want to over do this video because there are some great videos on youtube which I nabbed the idea from. Just search "pulse sensor exhaust" on youtube and there is plenty to learn from. This video was more to show that you could get something useful even with a cheap graphical multimeter, rather than using expensive picoscopes which these other videos often use.

@@projectbuild9784 I really appreciate your quick and thorough response. It makes sense....you have already earned a subscriber.

Glad you found it useful!

No blueprint I am afraid. The only real specific requirement is that the pivot is longer on the user side by the number of times you want the gain in lifting capability. As such, to lift 200kg you would either need it very short on the lifting side or very long on the user side. Say you have 500mm on the lifting side, you would need 2000mm on the user side which would quickly get awkward to use and you would still need to put 50kg weight on the handle to lift 200kg. As such I think you would be best to forget the handle and just have a chain lever hoist do the work. The other option could be to put a heavy gas strut into the design which helps take some of the load for you. Either way, for 200kg you need to think about using heavier wall steel so you don't have too much bending and perhaps some bearings on the pivot point if this is regular use, as the increased loading will wear the pivot faster.

Thank you!

You're welcome!

If you trust it, you can in theory measure up to 10A current. Heard a lot of cheap meters being fried because they are not adequately rated or even don't have a fuse. I can't recall ever measuring current this way. I always want to check it without disturbing the circuit. As such a clamp meter is my go to for those jobs.

I missed even in 2nd time watching this video...😢

Thank you!

Such a useful little diy tool for a very low cost both in money and time. I was the same when I first came across the idea. Couldn't believe how easy they are to make.

For these kind of weights, wood is probably just as good!

Brilliant! Hope you enjoy using it!

You could be in trouble. I assume the shear line is back beyond the front so hard to grip. My thoughts on possible routes to solve: 1. See if there is any roughness to the break that can be gripped with pliers. 2. Another option might be to pull back the release collar and give the tool a fairly hard bump on a piece of wood. See if the piece drops out.. 3. Dangerous option for making it worse potentially, but run the tool up to speed then use something to push the piece upwards. When it gets hit by the striking hammer it may knock it forward enough to get more traction. You may on the other hand be stuck with it further up. 4. Last option would be to drill and tap the piece then screw in a bolt to pull it. The piece will be hardened so that will not be fun. If you have sccess to a welder, potentially you could do a quick tack weld to a piece of metal (if the end is close enough in the collet) and then use that to pull out the piece. 5. Perhaps phone Hilti. I am guessing you need inside the collet to dismantle but there may be options to take the body off the tool then remove the whole collet assembly. You could then perhaps push the piece out with a screwdriver or such like. Good luck with it!

Most times it doesn't matter. You just need to see a blockage and a little hint of what the blockage might be. All drain cameras will have the same issue. Some stuff is out in the blackness and other stuff is right next to the camera leds so hugely bright. No camera can expose for that level of tonal range.

Exactly my thoughts. Could have fought about with that hinge but 2 mins with these and the screws are neatly removed with no ripped timber.

No plans I am afraid. The overall frame is about 1000mm long by 600mm wide and about 1000mm high on the outer part of the vertical. The extending part can take it to about 1500mm high. The arm comes out about 800mm in front and about 1200mm behind with extension making that probably around 1800mm. The reality is I made this out of scrap bits of steel I had around, so it was based to the specs of what I had to hand.

@@projectbuild9784 what are the dimensions of your tubing that you use - just wondering what size and wall thickness ?? am thinking a smaller scaled down version would be really handy for people to use even just to drag a heavy bag of groceries or sack of pet food out of the car. There really doesnt seem to be anything out there that I have seen to help with this other than a very expensive lifting platform machine that can cost thousands. Something small that you could even use to fit inside door frames so you could wheel something direct into /out of the house if needed...just got me thinking LOL

@@weldmama The base and vertical are a mix of 2mm and 3mm wall tube. The two angles that connect then are 8mm which is why I didn't need any real bracing. Just stuff I had around. The lever arm is the lightest stuff around 1.5mm but I did have to brace that with the top framework to lift the 100kg range without too much bending. I would probably go 3mm all round on the tubing if I did it again for my lifting requirements and therefore not have to add bracing to the top structure. I would also have the base stick out a bit more to the back as it tends to be a little tilty as you pull backwards. Otherwise it has been a brilliant little mini crane which is so much easier for lighter stuff you need to do quickly but is just on the heavy side to lift.

@@projectbuild9784 yep good suggestion re the 3mm tube!. You could even have options where you change out the caster wheels and put on rubber tyres and take it out to use in the garden to move things around etc if needed. Thanks for the detail and rational behind your build, I really appreciated it - I really like how you can attach pulleys and/or lever winch's to help with the lift as well - would help to provide futher control or holding if needed. Well done 👍

@@weldmama You're more than welcome! Good luck with your build!

You'll need some heavier wall than unistrut I think. Perhaps if you double it up back to back you may get adequate strength. The tube I used was about 1.5mm wall I think. Depends on the reach you need for the lift height too. The longer reach, the heavier you need it to be. For that weight you will probably also need to look at a puller. Even at 3:1 you would end up with your whole bodyweight on the end of the handle. To go to say 6:1, the handle would get unmanageable in length.

Thank you!

Thank you! Cast iron is weakly attracted to a magnet. You can feel the magnet pull slightly but not enough to lift something made of cast iron unfortunately. If it did work you would never get the magnet down the drain either for it sticking to the sides.

About 7kg with the chisel. Designed for wall demolition so fairly light.

@@projectbuild9784 Thanks, its the same as the SDS max im assuming. www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-120-Volt-SDS-MAX-TE-500-AVR-Demolition-Hammer-Performance-Package-3512856/205052901#product-overview

@@jamaicaexplore7405 Yes the chuck (if you call it that on a breaker) accepts sds max chisels.

Great! The 3000 is designed for ground work. Mainly used for road works. Very powerful piece of equipment. Two key things in common from this video. First is making a weak point and always working away from that point. Second is being very careful not to bury your chisel so far you can't lift the tool back out. Easily done in a second or two with a powerful machine like the 3000. Good luck with the job!

Get the 1000 out! 😂

Both first rate. Had them about 2-3 years and they haven't missed a beat. As a breaker the TE6 is brilliant. Bit heavier than the TE4 if you are drilling upwards but it is a little bit more powerful. Haven't much to compare but a guy I was working with had a dewalt impact driver and I was struck with how much noisier it was. Didn't notice any real difference in power between them so I was happy to enjoy the quieter machine!

@@projectbuild9784 Ah....my mate had the DeWalt and said it was no good. He loved my SID4. I used my Te6 for breaking up some tough floor tiles in work but it had to be precise as I was taking out a middle broken section of about 6 tiles and didn't want to damage the rest. The Te6 was really sweet to use....Huge power but precise with it. Just bought the new SF6H A22 brushless combi....WOW!! What a tool! Many thanks, Dave.

@@davesheppard8797 That will be a very powerful drill. I have the older model that they first brought out. Forget the number of it and it is well scuffed off the side now. Other than an occasionally slightly sticky chuck, it works perfectly. That is the one thing about Hilti tools. They may not have the best specs etc. but they will take endless abuse and just keep plugging away.

@@projectbuild9784 yes this is true......but this new SF6H A22 brushless is beating the pants off the likes of Milwaukee and DeWalt. Everyone is quite shocked. Plus the build quality is superb, ergonomics are great and it is a joy to use. Everyone was bitching that if the Milwaukee had a bigger battery it would win. I put a 9amp hour in my Milwaukee and a 2.6amp in my Hilti SF6H and the Hilti easily won the head to head. The low down screwdriving grunt is amazing (I always use torque settings usually leaving the drill on screw and 15 on torque for all applications). Plus it has ATC to save your wrist. Thanks, Dave.

@@davesheppard8797 I have heard it is great for power compared to the competition. One big advantage is Hilti went with the extra cell which means more voltage (helps torque) and lower currents (helps efficiency and lower temperatures). Something that all the other 18V platforms can't match.