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The Burroughs Garret
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2020
Traditional textiles woven on historic looms by Justin Squizzero in rural Vermont. Instructor at the Marshfield School of Weaving. Learn more at theburroughsgarret.com Instagram: @theburroughsgarret.
Making Knitted Heddles
Making traditional “knitted” heddles for handloom weaving. The heddles are made of two loops of linen cord that interlock with each other around the center rod. The loops are secured with half hitches to backing cords on the shafts. This 18th-19th-century heddle jig comes from the collection of The Marshfield School of Weaving in Marshfield, Vermont.
มุมมอง: 850
วีดีโอ
Linen Damask Jacquard Loom Weaving
มุมมอง 309ปีที่แล้ว
Handweaving linen damask using a 19th-century Jacquard loom.
Linen Damask Weaving
มุมมอง 552ปีที่แล้ว
Weaving linen damask on an 18th-century loom with a 19th-century Jacquard machine. The Jacquard creates the figured design in the cloth by raising groups of warp yarns in the mails. These groups of yarns are then individually raised or lowered by heddles to create the satin damask weave structure, resulting in a distinctive crossed shed between the mails and heddles.
Varnishing Jacquard Loom Mails
มุมมอง 676ปีที่แล้ว
To complete the Jacquard mails the twines are twisted and held in place with a knitting needle through the lingoes while multiple coats of varnish are applied to the twines. The varnished mails will be abrasion and tangle resistant on the loom.
Jacquard Loom Mail Assembly
มุมมอง 546ปีที่แล้ว
There were several ways that Jacquard mails were assembled historically, many of which were better suited to industrial settings where many looms were harnessed routinely. With only one loom to harness I’ve developed this system for putting together the 800 required mails for my Jacquard damask loom. Sleeper (upper) and hanger (lower) twines are warped to length on a board with nails. A sleeper...
Great Wheel Spinning
มุมมอง 13K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Spinning wool on a great wheel, also called a wool wheel, big wheel, or walking wheel. The hand carded rolls of Border Leicester fleece produce woolen yarn. Traditional technique as learned and taught by Norman Kennedy.
Figured Coverlet Jacquard Weaving
มุมมอง 3683 ปีที่แล้ว
Handweaving a figured coverlet using a Connecticut handloom built ca. 1725-50, and an English Jacquard head built ca. 1860 at The Burroughs Garret in Newbury, Vermont.
Handweaving a Figured Coverlet
มุมมอง 2K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Using an 1860s Jacquard head and a 17th-18th-century loom, Justin Squizzero handweaves a 19th-century style figured coverlet at The Burroughs Garret.
Figured Coverlet Weaving
มุมมอง 3424 ปีที่แล้ว
Justin Squizzero weaves a figured and fancy coverlet at The Burroughs Garret in Newbury, Vermont. The loom, built in Shelton, Connecticut ca. 1650-1750, is mounted by a 500 hook Scottish made Jacquard head dating from the 1860s. These figured coverlets were popular in America through the first half of the 19th century.
Jacquard Machine
มุมมอง 7504 ปีที่แล้ว
An 1860s Scottish Jacquard machine reading punch cards. This device is mounted on an 18th-century handloom and is used for weaving figured coverlets at The Burroughs Garret in Newbury, Vermont.
The sounds are beautiful. I could listen and watch all day and then sleep like a baby.
You make this look effortless!😱💖Im a new great wheel spinner.
How you seperate the cotton seeds from that soft cotton
Great
Gorgeous! I could watch you spin all day! Just acquired my first great wheel, and studying your technique. I wish you had incluided the end of the process, when your spindle is full, and what your next steps are. I suspect I'll just wind off to the niddy-noddy, but wanted to see what you do. Very lovely video. Thank you for sharing!
When the spindle is full I remove the yarn onto a reel. The reel then indicates the count of the yarn and ensures consistent spinning and suitability for weaving later.
@@theburroughsgarret Excellent. Thank you! Happy spinning!
Amazing craft
Как много желания и терпения делать эту красоту!👍
Maybe it’s the angle or the color of the floor, but I can’t quite see how you’re catching the first loop as you’re “knitting” the second. Does the path of the string go through the loop from left to right, then under the bottom and back up on the left side of the loop?
That’s correct. When the rod comes out the two loops are interlocked.
Also wondering are you using hand carded or carding wheel wool and do you treat it in any way to get it draw so smoothly? Thanks
These are hand carded rolls. The fleece is oiled and well carded which is crucial for successful spinning.
I'm new to spinning what is oiling the fleece? I'm familiar with carding but not oiling
The fleece is oiled before carding to lubricate the fibers, protect the cards, and help the roll stay together.
What type of oil do you use. The people I know that do fiber arts have never talked about oiling the wool. My daughter has spun wool in the grease but no mention of oil
@@sluggermn1 Whatever is cheap since you’re just going to scour it out later. Mineral oil works fine.
This is so very relaxing and enjoyable to watch you spin! What kind of wool are you using?
This is Border Leicester.
He is a master - i went to the Colne Valley museum in Yorkshire yesterday and they were no way as good.
Amsr quality love this! 😊
I'm broke so the only used wheels in my budget are these antiques. Picking one up today!
Always so fascinating to watch...
Yus dun good !
фильера ?
Holy drafting skills Batman!!!
멋있고 평화롭다!
Well I think it’s funny because I have no idea what the heck is going on here😂😂😂😂😂 Great video for those that know what you’re doing
He's doing basically two things. He's spinning the wool, and then winding it on the spool. Interesting, because these are the two things that happen when spinning on the 'Spinning Jenny' (the first spinning machine), and some later machines. Notice the different angle he holds the yarn when spinning, as opposed to when he's winding it on the spool.
He will make some man a great wife.
Just watching 8 minutes of rumplestilsken making thread
That was magical
Your one of the few people if has seen do this correctly. It is wonderful to see these old wheels being used.
Agreed!! And he has great technique. I think my roulags have too much fiber in them. His don't seem to. His draft is wonderful.
Fascinating! It seems so effortless, yet you obviously are very experienced. I like how the great wheel keeps the entire body in motion. It almost looks like a dance.
How many men are doing woman's work these days?
Are you using traditional rolags? It looks more like thin strips of drum carded batts. Something about the direction of the fibers. Apart from that: You are good!!
Thanks, these are hand carded rolls made on fine cotton cards with a little oil in the wool.
Where is the spun yarn going?
Spindle spinning is discontinuous. A length of yarn is spun and then wound onto the spindle to store it while the next length is spun. This is different from continuous spinning with a flyer and bobbin that constantly draws the yarn onto the bobbin as the spinning takes place.
Здорово!
Что это?
The thing with this wheel is that since you are doing it with a single hand, the rolag needs to be perfect and in the right consistency so you can draft with one hand only with no lumps and bumps.
Wonderful video Justin. It would be nice if you would speak and explain what you're doing. Many of us are trying to keep the old ways alive so it would help if you could explain your work on your channel. Kind regards Cheryl.
Wow. Berry beautiful.
I've just been lucky enough to get a Nova Scotian wheel from 1840! But I'm having some issues with the drive band slipping. I was wondering what you use?
I’ve used a lot of different cord depending on what’s on hand. I would recommend thicker rather than thinner, you want the cord to catch the sides of the spindle pulley, not just the bottom of the ditch, and to not over tighten the band and to make sure the wheel and spindle bearings are well oiled. I was taught to think about it as friction instead of tension. Hope that helps!
@@theburroughsgarret thank you so much, that's incredibly helpful! I think mine is too thin, definitely not enough friction. Thank you!!! Edit: just wanted to pop back and say that was 100% the issue I was having; my cord was too thin. I made a thicker one and it's working perfectly now! Thanks again!
Question. Does the string of punch cards continue in a circular loop through the machine as you weave until you are finished? That is an interesting device and an interesting way to control the warp threads for complex patterns. Had to do a little researching. Also, are you using your own hand spun cotton on these pieces of fabric? I saw your great wheel video. Excellent technique. Im learning via TH-cam. Im the grandpa that wants to learn to pass down this to the grandchildren.
The absolute best demonstration on using a great wheel. I need to get me a quit and get my great wheel running so I can learn.
Hope this video helps as you start using your own wheel!
@@theburroughsgarret I have no doubt that it will help.
Thanks. Lovely on a rainy afternoon.
Would love to know more about that knot. Ive never made that knot work so clearly am missing something
One key with the weavers knot, if the basic form is correct, is that the left hand has to hold the left twine and both of the short tails while the right twine is pulled to close the knot. If the twines and tails aren’t held in that configuration the knot doesn’t come together, it just falls apart. Hope that solves it for you!
got ant updates?
Well-prepared fiber makes all the difference for spindle spinning. Beautifully done!
Mesmerising! It looks so easy when you do it, but I painfully know it isn't! I especially love how you're able to pull on the yarn to even it out. Somehow that doesn't work when I do it. More practice needed...
You want your rolls well oiled and with just enough twist at first to hold the yarn together, then you can draw to even it as you put in the rest of the twist. It’s really fun once you get the hang of it and produces consistent yarn with little fuss.
Thank you! Ah, how I wish I lived near Vermont for your classes! I hope you make more craft videos sometime.
You need to find the exact sweet spot where you have just enough twist to be able to pull a bit (and even out the flubs) and not pull the whole thing apart. There should (in my experience) be just a little resistance when you pull. As soon as you've pulled, the sweet spot is lost and you have to add a bit more twist to get to the sweet spot again.
Love it. Beautiful work.
Süper kolay gelsin
So meditative! I just need to buy a spindle, and my great wheel will be ready for action! Wish me luck, it’s my first try!
Best demonstration of using the walking wheel I have seen, no faffing about, just fast production of good yarn.
Beautiful spinning!
You say well oiled wool what kind of oil do you use?
I just use baby oil. It’s all going to get scoured out of the yarn later so don’t see much point in using anything fancy.
@@theburroughsgarret Have you tried spinning in the raw? With the lanolin in? Or with just part of the lanolin washed out?
@@tineditmarunnerup9513I'm no expert, like the guy who made this video, but I used to card wool, and then spin it with a drop spindle. Before all of that, I would wash the wool, and was told by a coworker (I worked at a living history village museum), not to take too much lanolin out of the wool when washing. The lanolin makes the carding and spinning go easier, and also makes the wool somewhat water resistant. This is why I never used dish detergent, because it cuts too much grease. I used laundry detergent, it leaves more grease in the wool. I used the wool that was sheared from our own sheep at the village museum, and the first wash, or rinse, I used no soap at all, as what happens is that the 'doogy' (my word) that hasn't already been picked off the wool, dissolves in that rinse, and I don't think soap in the beginning does a thing. Then I would wash it again with the laundry detergent.
I really o do with a good commentary.
Such an amazing loom! And of course de studio is perfect.
Thank you for this beautiful video, I find it quite hypnotic watching you spin. I suspect there is no need for any other type of meditation when you have a great wheel at your disposal. I’ve seen very old photographs of people with the great wheel but I had never seen it in use. Cheers from Australia.
Amazing, he must be very experienced. You get a goo idea how much production could be done on one of these wheels!
What a fantastic loom and jauard head! Must have taken you ages to thread it.. Dit you find it in a good condition or did it need cleaning and repairing? Curious to see the finished coverlet.