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Thank you Kasper and I do have some Perry’s US infantry, but I am working on some US Airborne that I hope to use in a Batrep video after V3 comes out 👍 My long term project is a new unit of British infantry depicting Scottish infantry using 8th Army figures and converting them into wearing kilts etc. Hope to have that done by the end of the year.

Thank you Stephen and I do have CoC rules as it goes and did play a couple of solo encounters to get used to the rules, but was put off with the large amount of die rolling. I also used to play Rapid Fire the original version (when I had 20mm stuff back in the 90’s and have the new updated rules that again I’ve had a ‘dabble’ with in 28mm, but I just like the simplicity of BA and the order die system that was first used back in the 80’s by Bruce Taylor with his order ‘chits’ in a bowl modern rules 👍

Merci beaucoup its greatly appreciated 👍 Going to Normandy again this weekend for another sightseeing trip and inspiration in the amazing museums.

Thank you, hopefully getting V3 for my birthday when it comes out and then plan the next one 👍

Thank you and I just take an overhead photo of the table (bit of a reach and balancing act on some ladders 😂) and then using a free photo app called Graphite just convert the image to colour pencil, tweak the effect a bit and then print it off in black and white 👍

@@dazvanderyoung1911 thanks very much Daz. That’s a great tip about Graphite, just been playing with it, lots of scope for it to support gaming. It’ll make home grown scenarios look a lot better.

I am an old Rapid Fire player as it goes and do have pretty much all of the battle group and scenario books and your right they really go well with Bolt Action and thats why I’ve always referred to units as companies and squadrons as old habits die hard 😂.

Thank you and the daughters are getting me version 3 for my birthday so should have it when it comes out on the 26th and looking forward to planning another video mid October all being well 👍

Thank you glad you liked it 👍

Cheers Robert it’s appreciated and looking forward to getting V3 later this month to plan the next one 👍

Thank you its appreciated 👍

Thank you it’s appreciated and just a shame life (or the wife to be precise 😂) always gets in the way of wargaming although she did help me with this one. Hopefully next one in October when I’ve got my hands on V3 later this month 👍

Cheers its appreciated 👍

Thank you 👍

I base all my vehicles partly because it protects them in transit and storage. I mark the centre base edge of each one. The massive benefit is that it stops all the nonsense about measuring range and line of sight from gun barrels, front sprockets or commander’s hatches. Saves a lot of argument in a club game.

Pretty much everything that @samb2052 is spot on and personally it does keep everything uniformed with the figures etc. However my tanks are actually held on the base with magnets so they can be removed etc. if your on the Bolt Action facebook groups (Bolt Action, Bolt action terrain makers and painting bolt action) search for me on them as ‘Daz Van Der Young’ and it will bring up my posts where I show how i do it etc. As for the board I use fleece battle mats from ‘Geek Villain’ in the UK. They cost around £60 for a 6’x4’ and do look better than painted MDF or chipboard 👍

Cheers Phil its appreciated 👍

Cheers and hopefully not long to wait until I get the new rules on the 26th.

I've told the wife no more pink slippers 'on set' in future hahaha

@@dazvanderyoung1911 It's great that she plays with you, can't wait for next one.

Thank you very much Alain for the kind words, its very much appreciated.

I agree - it is stunning (all your models are to be honest)

I tried to do a painting video some months ago and it was quite frankly ‘shit’ as I forgot to video a lot of the stages as I get engrossed in the process. The process I use is effectively how you’d paint and detail a 1/35 scale model. There are lots of excellent model painting channels on TH-cam to go through. What I’ve done below is list the colours I’ve used and as for the Dunkelgelb highlights its a modulation process where you highlight up when you apply each colour. Before putting any enamel washes on make sure you’ve glossed varnished the model as mine get at least 2 gloss varnishes (once before enamel pin washing, then after the enamel pin wash and clean up before I apply more track washes and powders.) before they are finally Matt varnished. Hope it makes sense. Painting guide German Panther V Undercoat Tamiya NATO Black Base coat Tamiya Dark Yellow First highlight coat AK Dunkelgelb Light base Second highlight coat AK Dunkelgelb High light Camouflage pattern AV Model Air Light Green AV Model Air Rust All over light dry brush of Tamiya Buff All over edges light dry brush of AK Dunkelgelb Shine All over edges light dry brush of AV Pale Sand Light edge chipping using AV German Black Brown Wood equipment/handles Basic colour AV New Wood Highlight colour AV Cork Brown Metal tools/fittings Basic colour AV Black Grey Highlight colour GW Leadbelcher Road wheels GW Stormvermin fur Highlight edges colour GW Administratum grey Tracks = AV Track colour then drybrush GW Leadbelcher. After gloss varnishing wash the tracks with Mig track wash and then varnish again before applying further washes and powders. Exhaust pipes and other metal bits such as jack and wheel braces AV Black grey or Black brown Highlighted with GW Leadbelcher mixed 2 - 1 AV Model Air Rust Enamel Washes Mig Brown wash for German yellow vehicles - pin wash Tracks = AK Kursk Summer Earth - AK Africa dust (lightly applied 10/4) - rainmark effect (lightly) Powder = AV Natural umber

Cheers Chris and please see my reply to @jokersfunhouse8280 where I’ve detailed what paints I use etc.

@@dazvanderyoung1911 Daz, saw the previous response, very helpful, cheers. I get where you are coming from about the 'logistics' that go into making a film on how you you paint. However, I do think I speak for not only myself when I say I'd love to see an 'army showcase' type of film from you. Your minis and vehicles are stunning and while I know you use Crusader and Warlord etc, seeing these and the detail in them that your painting brings out, would be a joy to watch. Also, be good to understand where/how you kitbash (if at all - but the German Light Mortar team in the Battle Report, well I wasn't sure if that was a Warlord hybrid of from somewhere else). Anyway, the quality is there, so if you feel inclined, please show it off, but don't feel compelled as I'll understand if it is something that is not for you - I'll still be a subscriber!! Cheers once again, and thanks for putting your stuff out there for us to enjoy. All the best mate

Thanks again Chris and the German light mortar are Warlord Afrika Korps plastics just painted up as wearing pea dot etc. My daughter has been saying I should do a painting video and I am building a Jagdpanther and looking to get a proper video camera that I can put on a tripod and will try again later this year as the Jagdpanther should be a good one to paint and I’ve also just got some new Mig Ammo paints that go on like Tamiya so I’m going to give them a go 👍

I know, everything that could go wrong did with not getting to finish stuff for one reason or another.

Thank you and I've got my V3 rulebook pre order in so hopefully should have it on the 26th and can start planning.

Hope this makes sense Robert Undercoat using GW Zandri dust spray tin Paint on all the following colours and highlights then Agrax wash everything to blend and tone it all down. Use an Agrax ratio of approximately 4 - 1 Agrax to Lahman medium Helmet = Vallejo Russian Green, highlight US Olive drab and then top highlighted with GW Death World Forrest green Trousers = Vallejo English uniform or US Field drab and highlighted Vallejo Khaki grey Parsons jacket and gaiters = GW Morghast bone and highlight Ushabti bone then another top highlight of GW wraith bone Webbing = GW Death World Forrest green, highlight Vallejo Khaki then top highlight Vallejo Afrika tank crew Spade = Vallejo New wood the highlight GW Zandri dust Rifles/wooden stocks etc = GW Mournfang then highlight Skragg brown & highlight top Cadian flesh then paint on metal parts of gun with GW Corvus black then highlight GW Lead belcher then top highlight GW silver or VA Silver etc. Rifle straps = GW base Knife/machete/sheath = GW Corvus black highlighted GW Castellan green and metal parts GW Iron hands steel Boots = GW Mournfang brown *****After the Agrax wash has been applied and dried then paint the flesh parts and helmet straps then use GW Riekland flesh wash to hands and faces etc. Flesh = GW Cadian flesh then highlight GW Kislev flesh then top highlight nose/cheeks/finger tips with off white. Helmet straps = GW Death World Forrest green Once the flesh and flesh wash are applied and dried I then gloss varnish allowing at least 24 hours drying time before matt varnishing my figures to totally protect them. I use Vallejo Premium gloss varnish and AK Ultra Matt varnish

Thank you very much 👍

Brilliant and thank you 👍

Thank you very much 👍

Thank you and glad you like the videos 👍

Thank you and I knew I'd forget things, I had it in my head if they were fixed they couldn't move/turn and fire the same turn, lucky airborne figures there then.

Yes although it wasn't meant to be but things got in the way, so had to do it myself over a couple of days.

Thank you and on this occasion it was a download scenario from Warlord Games, but the other videos are random ones I make up etc.

Cheers 👍🏻

Thanks 👍🏻

Merci beaucoup 👍🏻

Cheers James 👍🏻