วีดีโอ

Thank you for your comment! Appreciate your input..

Hey Ri Kin, thank you for your comment, I don't think torque change is something for a mechanic to worry about. The change is minute due to torsional or angular deflection. As long as the origin of the pivot is not changed, torque in this case is linear, not angular or torsional. However, as you noted, it can change if you use multiple extensions and inadvertently change the pivot origin. So, if it's highly critical, make sure to only use one solid extension. If using a leveler, simply multiply (force*distance) for a true reading. But I myself would never use a leveler with a torque wrench. You are correct; you do have to be careful when using extensions.

I appreciate the way you put it my friend, the key is finesse:) but I'm not sure if the particular model makes a difference, certainly there must be a reason why Mercedes outlines a procedure to go through the glovebox. Thank you so much for your input!

I'm sorry my friend, I could not discern the question, my apologies.

Hey Marco thank you for comment. The rear ac control only controls air flow. Actual rear ac system have another dedicated evaporator, expansion valve and potentially even a separate dryer. There would be two lines going back for supply and return. You would not be able to flush remotely because of the expansion valve. You would have to isolate evaporator and use new expansion valve and dryer if a second one is used. My car does not have a second rear evaporator. Again, thank you for the inquiry. I hope this helps but let me know if you need additional information.

Thank you madmsgyver, again the instructions from Mercedes is to do it from the glove box, but many seem to be successful at doing it from engine side. Coming from a dealer setting, I learned the hard way breaking something on customers expensive car wasn't an option, so most technicians opted for manufacturers guidelines. Good job getting it done safely through and Thank you for your comment! I always appreciate you guys' input!

@@3dviewlogic thank you for the reply. I have the Mercedes factory repair manual and I refer to it for 99% of the repairs. I thought the cabin filters were self explanatory. This reminds me of the alternator removal for late 80s early 90s Hondas, removal of the wheel and axle shaft is recommended. 4 hour job. I figured it out in 20 minutes without removing anything except the alternator. Thank you for posting w251 content, and having dealer experience

Hey MIke so sorry for late response, had not got a chance to go on TH-cam. The fuel filter filter is part of the sender assembly inside the tank. You can access by lifting rear seat cushions as well as the padding underneath. I am including a link on my google drive for you to follow those instructions. docs.google.com/document/d/1nFDDJ3xol-V2lzPMD6SqPU12lp26CbiZqjHlUtM5_BE/edit?usp=sharing I hope this helps Mike!

Ok. Thanks so much. Sorry for late reply

Hey Wayne thank you for the comment. I hope your cooler wasn't too hard to get around. As per your compressor not kicking on after initial charge, I suppose it could be your low pressure switch but when that has happened to me, more often than not, I have overseen something. (vacuum, fuses, relays) Your Switch can be found by following the larger line coming into the compressor from from evaporator. I have put a picture of where it is located in my car here: docs.google.com/document/d/1oEB09-lNvtNEQNpajWEcBsWMq-Sp-c1CX6nAqm1EA_k/edit?usp=sharing you can quickly test the sensor by setting your voltmeter to ohmmeters and testing for continuity between leads . If you get continuity check for voltage directly at compressor, odds are something else is happening. I have seen people freezing an h-block by doing a quick liquid charge. Take your time(liquid on low, gas on high) it is safer to flip the can upside down when going into the high side and needle at bottom when going into liquid side. Unfortunately every job is unique, these are just some general guidelines.

@@3dviewlogic Yes, You are right about having a good vacuum helps to charge the system. Troubleshooting with electronics is a real weakness for me but is so necessary to repairs. I did see something about AAC at the fuse box in the engine compartment and right side of passenger compartment. I will double check the trunk area. Wow, if I come up with a fix on your suggestions I need to compensate you. Thank you.

Hey Peter, good to hear from you. While in training at UTI and BMW Step1 we used nitrogen to test A/C systems and I suppose it could as well be used to pressurize the flushing solvent. While in the field however, my experience was that no one used nitrogen, only compressed air. even expensive equipment uses a pump to pressurize the solvent. I suppose it is a matter of convenience and quite acceptable to just use shop air to pressurize the solvent. By the way if you are in the states and if you are do it yourselfer, your best option would be to borrow an A/C flushing kit from your local auto parts store. They will require a $100. deposit which they will refund if no damage to their equipment occurs. It is designed to work with shop air. If you are writing from outside the country, you could manually inject the solvent, then using a rubber tip pressurize the lines to blow them dry. repeat process until solvent comes out free of oil and clear. Again, thank you for the question.

Thank you Jason, appreciate your comment.

Hi Ruan, thank you for comment. as far as leak testing, the standard is 30 inches of vacuum for 15-30minutes. I let mine sit for 1 Hr. just to make sure it wasn't creeping down. You definitely need a strong vacuum pump. 29 inches might be ok. a good pump will pull 30. It is also acceptable to pressurize system using 200lbs of nitrogen. It is an inert gas and wont harm anything. Whatever is accessible to you. If it worked and then stopped, I also think you leaked the refrigerant but that's easy to check, just re-plug the gauges. dyes are fine if you have a powerful good quality UV LIght. Blue point used to sale a strong UV light that you could only light up for few seconds due to heat, but this was my favorite. Modern blue lights seems weak and also highlight stuff not related to A/C. Now days you can get a sniffer from amazon also. So in short my preferred method was my blue point UV light followed by Nitrogen and soap and water spray.

@@3dviewlogic Hi , my compressor clutch doesn't engauge. I believe there is 12 volts going to the wire leading to the compressor. So I have to assume that the compressor needs to be replaced like shown in this video. Correct? or is there something I'm missing in checking for clutch engaugement. Thanks Steve

Hey Steve if you can verify 12v at compressor clutch and no engagement, then I would assume your coil is not pulling the clutch. On this particular car you would need a new compressor.

Thanks for the info on the AC clutch and compressor. I will replace it as per your video. Another issue is that I have a P0451 code. I'm looking up the fuel tank pressure sensor location to see if it is easily accessed for possible replacement. If you could tell me a link to a video that you made, that would be helpful on diagnosing the problem. Thanks Again. Steve

Thank you for comment Larry.

Hi Lidya, the light blinking doesnt appear to have anything to do with the work you performed. I dont think your compressor is getting power, you can check Blue/Green wire at compressor for 12v. the Low side at 40 PSI indicates plenty of refrigerant to kick start compressor. Usually between 30-40psi on most cars if your compressor is receiving voltage, then this is a solvable problem but I am not sure what your situation is. Try this below, Mercedes Air Conditioning Reset Step 1: To do the resetting, you have to insert the ignition key to its slot and turn the ignition cylinder to the position ‘2’. This is the highest point that the cylinder can go without activating the engine. Step 2: Press the buttons for recirculating air and defrosting at the same time and hold them for somewhere between 5 to 10 seconds. To be on the safe side, hold them until their LED lights start flashing. Step 3: Wait for about a minute for the LED lights to stop flashing. When they do, turn the car off. Wait one more minute before restarting the engine. The AC system is reset now and the hot air blowing problem is likely to be solved. if this doesnt work and you have no power at compressor, unfortunately you will have to take to dealer. I checked the wiring schematic and it is too redundant for you to trouble shoot without proper tools. this system uses a couple of different buses and control modules and temperature sensors, pressure sensors etc.. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but let me know if you do have 12v at compressor and you still need help. feel free to email me directly for help.

thank you for the fast reply, I have tried your method but my recycle and defrosting buttons cannot be pressed at the same time my car type is w211, is there another way to reset the ac module without an error code removal tool? can i trigger the compressor to turn on by filling the r134a as much as 80psi at low and 100psi at high through the high hose in the dead car position (is it safe to do this)

@@lidyafebrina9008 Wondering if you did complete A/C job without disconnecting battery. If so you probably set codes in system that need to be cleared out with scanner capable of interfacing with Mercedes. If you dont have one unfortunately it might have to go to dealer to clear code using SDS machine. By the way, I dint notice your question about overcharging system. the pressure switches only need 30-40 psi to turn on system, if system doesnt come on, you cant force it to come on by continuing to charge. Get your system cleared and I am sure it will resume.

Thank you Alfredo, glad you were able to do it via the engine and save some time. and thank you for commenting.

Hello wajdi, thank you for reaching out I tried to access the bus diagram from all data, Unfortunately they are having some issues and I am waiting on technician to solve my problem in order to access the diagrams. I am a BMW technician so those cars have different bus systems and control modules than Mercedes So I cant guide you from memory but can give you some general guidance. I m not sure I fully understood your issue, but believe your radio Command center has failed First of all be aware that you will be dealing with a fiberoptic network. I believe the Network that controls your radio is the BUS Network I would begin by eliminating the ZGS(central Gateway Module) which serves as a master controller for other units. This one should be in the trunk of your car Make sure you have no drivability concerns no warning lights make sure that there is communication with the OBD2 diagnostic port if all this is ok then it will probably be a device in the MOST BUS there should be about 5 other devices in that network, unfortunately those networks are connected in series so one device can make all the others fail. I found a video of a gentleman who did a wonderful job tracing his problem and he also shows you how to jump a fiberoptic device. this will help you find the guilty module. I will put links below. also be aware that the year of your car make change device configuration slightly. th-cam.com/video/UdvOwYjCZm8/w-d-xo.html us.autologic.com/news/mercedes-benz-most-bus-diagnosis once ALLDATA gets back with me, feel free to email me directly for further guidance I should be able to be a little more helpful once I have all diagrams. Again Thank you for reaching out for help.

@@3dviewlogic thank you for taking care.

Thank you for the input Bernardo, I apologize for inconvenience. I only had access to phone at the time. I have since purchased a hero pro camera and hopefully next time it will be better quality.

Hi David, I replied to your inquiry outside of this text, but am hoping you saw. Let us know what shop decided. Again , only reason to replace evaporator is if it is physically damaged, otherwise flushing should suffice. Unlike the condenser it is very easy to flush, and without removing. Again, hoping you didnt have to pay an arm and a leg for this.

Thank you for comment, Glad it could help.

@@3dviewlogic no problem & it is really hard to find guides on this model.

@@StroDshiesty1 it sure is, which is why I decided to post this video. I am actually surprised there isn't much more help on these particular models. I am very satisfied with mine, I think they are good cars. If you ever have a question you think I might be able to help with, let me know. I try to keep up with mine although in actuality I am a BMW technician by trade. Also just so you know ALLDATA does have these models available, although somewhat limited, it better than nothing. you can use ALLDATADIY.com Thanks again! n19bmw@gmail.com

@@StroDshiesty1 it should have 3-4 10mm bolts on top, then it is clipped at bottom. You need to be very careful with those clips they are very brittle. Use a flat head or a steel pick to unclip, then pull lightly.

Thank you Jose glad to know you were successful in doing it that way. I tried but was unable without damaging new ones so I decided to follow the directions instead but would have loved to save a bunch of time like you. Perhaps you can make a short video and Post it so others will know your shortcut. Thank you so much for commenting!

Yes but I Wonder if it's because you have a newer model. I just bought a 2006 and the mechanic just told me it was labor intensive. That's what brought me to research and I found this video.

Thank you glad it was helpful

Thanks Larry, Appreciate the comment. The torque specs were included in other videos, this was the last one, but will re look and post a note here soon. And I guess you are right, if its that hard to replace those filters, might as well go new:))