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I use to break in a motor before it was ran in the truck. Distilled water and submerge it and run it at half the voltage. I still have one orion lathe. But i have a real lathe now so i use that. When i became and automotive mechanic, i just missed the the time when shops would rebuild starters and alternators inhouse. Now its eithe buy new or re manufacturerd.

Is the alloy diff less likely to leak?

Very informative, ive, just purchased an l1r, im intending to use the alloy diffs in the build are front and rear alloy diffs exactly the same and are they still compatible with the l1r, any info would be appreciated.

I had no idea that these things existed until I saw a video today on AMain Hobbies channel about the old days of the RC hobby.

That was cool to watch, how much would a lathe like this be these days?

I really wish that schumacher would release a ball diff for the new cats. The gear diffs do not work well on the track i race on. Tried everything from lighter diff fluid to the heaviest diff fluid but nothing would work. The car would just skate around like it was on ice.

All the years I have been into rc I have never used any loctite on any screws and only once did I have one screw back off which was on the center slipper drive cup on an sworkz s104 evo. That was the only screw that warranted some blue as it was rotating in the center of the rear output drive cup that held the drive pin in on the slipper. Other than that one screw on that one brand never needed it. I ran taymia losi custom works hyperdrive ae team trinity LTO TLR RB sworkz yokamo and lynx to name a few going back to the late 80s to current. Nitro and electric. bottom line the wide spread over use of the devil's glue is ridiculous and not needed in 98% of the rc world

Did you switch to the alloy for the purpose of weight savings? Another question, how would this buggy perform on indoor clay? Thanks nice channel 👍🏻

Will you do other requests?

Whoa. You’re standard of worn tires is very different than mine. Lol

Thanks mate, I need to change/put oil in the rear diff of my L1.

“This is the only parts that is really quite annoying”-you got that right. That front end piece is annoying in a lot of ways... Good video.

did you find the cause of the belt failure? Both diffs and pulleys look good. Did you clean up the pulley tooth profile anyway to make sure, and inspect the chassis for signs of stone ingress?

I dont suppose you know what the spacing of the holes in the chassis are do you? I'm trying to find a lipo holder for my old cougar 2, I found a couple for this model but cant tell if the hole spacing is the same or not. Nice buggy too by the way 👍

Good tip about the new spring, pre-compressing makes the slipper spring setting very consistent.

Cheers mate, I didn’t know I could just buy the extra plate.

Cheers mate, I keep loosing my pins

A bit too much threadlock there only need a tiny dab on the end, good tip though with the soldering iron.

Ran into the same exact problem on my EVO this weekend, soldering iron didn’t work for me either. Had to break out the Dremel. Thankfully, minimal damage. Good vids.

Not much difference in weight between the two