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When you pull the catch basin for the water out, the filter pulls down from the top of that compartment.

🎉

Glad it worked out!

Glad it helped!

It’s very small. It’s probably 1/4” OD.

@@brntechmech1503 ok great. ill let you know if it fits

Will do

I think Rock Auto had a 2006 Ford F150 King Ranch loaded in there. I was able to put all of the details in there. Then I chose the cheaper option that rock auto had.

Appreciate that!

I appreciate it! It’s not easy but it saves a lot of money!

No, there isn’t. Not in my CRV at least. All the ducting goes through that filter.

Glad it helped!

I believe it is a thermostat sensor. I think there is another fail safe sensor later on in the system. Typically with these types of sensors on dryers, a continuity test should do the trick. If there is no continuity the sensor is usually bad.

@@brntechmech1503 right. My thermostat sensor has no continuity. It'll be in Friday! When I looked at his links. I wasn't sure which one it was

@@brntechmech1503 I followed link and purchased the therm. Sensor. I got it in yesterday, put it in. Dryer works like new. The best part is upon opening the dryer. I discovered lint in every vent hole and covered throughout dryer. I gave it a good cleaning as well. Thank you!!

That’s one expensive air filter!😂

Glad to hear it!

You're welcome!

You’re welcome!

I am not totally sure what they do! I think it’s an ion filter though. Not everybody necessarily agrees on the science behind them though.

Done. hope this helps some people maybe before they even finish installing the radio!

Yup! Once it dehumidifies the air down to that percentage it will cut off. It will constantly monitor the humidity level. When it is running it will show the current humidity level though, not the humidity level you set the dehumidifier too. The only reason it would keep running is if there was a fan function on the unit.

No problem!

Glad I could help!

No problem!

No problem!

Glad I could help you save some money!

**SOLUTION** After months of trying to figure this nonsense out and even considering building a circuit, I have solved this. The anwer is a PAC-TR4. It's about $16 at the time of this writing. It takes a low voltage signal and shifts it up to +12V. It was actually meant for amplifier turn on signals, but it solves this. Yellow wire goes to +12V, black wire to ground, green wire to vehicle dimmer, blue wire to radio dimmer. Now it goes to night mode with no flicker, and you can set your dashlights as bright or dim as you want.

I will try to make this video soon! I can try to explain it now though! What a lot of people will do is buy a special tool for cleaning the vent duct that attaches to a drill and gets the dust out of the duct. Then you attach a shop vac to the outside of the vent to pull all of the excess lint out of the duct. Here is the link to the tool! amzn.to/3ULEHUf Another good thing to do is to disconnect the duct from the back of dryer and clean out whatever you can reach. Sometimes there are clogs in 90 degree bends in the duct. Hope this helps!

Yah! There is a small piece of squishy foam in the main part of the vent.

Glad I could help!

Glad I could help!

If you have a multimeter you can check to make sure you are getting power to the light socket. It may be that a fuse went bad or a wire got loose or maybe even chewed by rats! I’ve had that on my truck before.

Yes! The key is mainly just a safety/security feature. If you connect the wiring on the back of the key slot it will bypass the key.

Glad it helped!

Sorry. If that wasn’t it it’s most likely a bad radio or a loose connection in the wiring. The wiring is labeled. Screen Brightness/Display brightness will be on there. I’d check that.

@@brntechmech1503 To eliminate the flickering, that unit requires a constant 12v power source to the illumination wire when the headlights are on. Some cars/trucks have a variable voltage illumination wire, hence the flickering. The only way to get it to work properly is to either install a manual switch, a relay to provide 12v when the headlights are on or wire to 12v and use the Illumination control switch in the unit. I opted for the manual switch for greater control. Perhaps if you looked into it before making a useless video, you'd know that.

**SOLUTION** After months of trying to figure this nonsense out and even considering building a circuit, I have solved this. The anwer is a PAC-TR4. It's about $16 at the time of this writing. It takes a low voltage signal and shifts it up to +12V. It was actually meant for amplifier turn on signals, but it solves this. Yellow wire goes to +12V, black wire to ground, green wire to vehicle dimmer, blue wire to radio dimmer. Now it goes to night mode with no flicker, and you can set your dashlights as bright or dim as you want.

@@funkingitup1805 I tried that very device on my 2002 Sebring and it did not work. I wired in a manual switch. So YMMV with this device but at least worth a try.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped!

Hope it helped!

Great to hear!

Glad it helped!!

Glad I could help!

**SOLUTION** After months of trying to figure this nonsense out and even considering building a circuit, I have solved this. The anwer is a PAC-TR4. It's about $16 at the time of this writing. It takes a low voltage signal and shifts it up to +12V. It was actually meant for amplifier turn on signals, but it solves this. Yellow wire goes to +12V, black wire to ground, green wire to vehicle dimmer, blue wire to radio dimmer. Now it goes to night mode with no flicker, and you can set your dashlights as bright or dim as you want.

Glad to help!

Thanks for the info! I need to change the oil on this one again.

True that

There is a fan that is (used to be) blue inside that can collect dust and dirt over time. There is a chance that could cause it. You can see the fan straight through the vent in the top of the unit. I would also make sure that the unit isn't leaking. Had that happen once and didn't notice and it ruined my floors!

Thanks! I appreciate it!!

Glad it helped!!

Glad it helped! It's definitely a leak-prone spot.

There should be a rubber hose that connects to the bottom of the washer drum. Sometimes the clamp that seals the hose on won't seal it tight enough. I believe there is also a gasket where the agitator connects to the transmission underneath the washer. That could also be leaking as well.

Glad I could help!

Thanks

Glad it helped!