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Thank you

Jonny 5 is alive !

IBMS SYSTEM EXPLAIN PLEASE SIR

⚠️ 🚳 REALLY WHAT YOU PEOPLE REALLY FORGET TO TELL THE REAL PUBLIC ABOUT ANY small Electric Bike MOTOR Small hill's is going to burn any electric motor out 🔥HOT I REALLY do know I am a REAL ASE certified master expert technician

How about 15 pole pairs with a fardriver nd84530 with no 15 pole pair setting?

Jonny, I'm a mechanical engineer with some insight but not a comprehensive isight into these motors, I have a question for you that will help me resolve a design detail for a concept I'm working on... Can these flat stators iperate perfectly well *if* there was a gap in the stator? In other words, if an eighth of the stator was missing (but the circuit was continued by an intermediate cable or other conductor), would it compel a rotor to spin as normal?

I have an e bike with a geared hub motor. It has plenty of power on level ground and on small grades. But when I climb steeper grades the motor has very limited power. Why does this happen? if you would know?

Can I wire a 10 pin motor connection to a 9 pin? I seem to have an extra gray cable on a Swft Zip. Thank you

Hello Johnny5 I have an MXUS 4T 3000w motor, a KLS7230S controller and a Hailong 48v battery (cyclurba.fr/forum/image/forum_2023/forum745471_L.jpg) and I don't know if I should use the precharge resistor. In your video you indicate that you do not use them because you have installed a BMS that supports this. Can you tell me how to proceed please because there is a BMS in my battery and it is also equipped with an ON/OFF button but I don't know if that would be enough? I was also told that it was enough not to use this precharge resistor and to simply connect the battery to the controller with an anti spark XT90.... Thanks for your help

THANKS GOD BLESS

Thank you for the explanation. I currently ride a bicycle with a 1000W gearless e-motor. I am thinking to get a second bike with a geared motor as my primary bike, hopefully to increase my range a little bit compared to my current gearless motor.

Thank you for your well-thought-out Video today i purchased a non running ebike with this hub. And thanks to you I was able to resurrect it.

Again we thank you. Question, every hub motor has a "nominal" watt output stamped on the motor, usually they are very underrated, how do we know what the real "continuous" watt rating is? Also, the real "peak" watt output? It can mess up the math. Thanks, I'm just trying to learn.

Interesing. What is the usual life expectency in miles of those nylon gears in a geared hub motor? Thanks.

Very interesting and with no 💩 music👍

For those who are new to eBikes, it can become confusing when amps and watts are interchanged in the product descriptions. For instance, my eBike is equipped with a 500-watt motor and a 13-amp hour battery. It would be helpful if both were consistently rated using either watts or amps. What's even more perplexing is when a manufacturer employs both units. Take, for instance, an upgraded replacement battery rated at 36V 15Ah 700W. Attempting to convert amps to watts through calculations can make my head spin, as the provided numbers just don't seem to align. For instance, 36 * 15 equals 540, and 700 divided by 36 equals 19.4, and so on. Furthermore, an explanation that these differences might be attributed to energy loss only serves to further complicate the matter. I appreciated your summary that a 500 watt motor will provide greater distance, and a 750-1000 watt motor will provide greater performance.

... God... always... ...

So the bigger the hub moter the better the moter/faster it goes/handles more speed??

It is simple. Geared motor is the preferred motor as you need to climb hills. Here we have no hills and I prefer the normal hub motor. It makes no notice and no maintenance. The gears become a problem after a while. They make noice and the gears will wear out after a while. It depends on how you ride your bike, but it can happen faster than you think. That is why I prefer gearless. Yes it has disadvantages, but as you are up to speed, the Amos it pulls isn't that big and it rides smooth.

One problem with your calculations, it assumes that all of the 1000wh of capacity is useable energy, and it is not! I run my battery from 100% down to 20% SOC and use battery voltage, miles traveled, and elevation gain to calculate range. If you are touring or bikepacking you should calculate the range while fully loaded. If you are riding only 12 miles and adding the unknown variable of charger efficiency, how accurate are your range calculations going to be with such a small sample of real-world conditions?

Very well explained. Just what I was looking for. Thank you.

You had it right in the video saying 85% efficiency, then got it wrong in the picture saying 15% efficiency.

Should the charger change from a consistent charge to a frequent on and off charge? Is this the cell balancing feature or is there an issue? It does stop eventually and the indicator light turns green. Thanks in advance for your advice. Scott

I have the Magic pie

Can that hub motor go on a 20x4 inch wheel? .

Legend has it this man is STILL trying to sniff that last bump of coke out of his nose to this day. Just watch the video n listen to him lol*sniff..sniff sniff ...sniiiff. *

Why only Facebook pay for rear rack

Sensor vs sensor less

was a good video, but never touched upon: direct drive brake regeneration and reliability (Which is by far one of their biggest benefits)

Thanks to the helpers identify error and continuous red light

Dude! your videos are great! I was looking for a place to learn how to know what motor to buy, what esc / controller to buy. How to calculate the best option for my project etc. Do you have any webpage to recommend? Thank you a lot!

Don't stop making videos! We need your knowledge

Have this, have cheaper $60 one also. Display has dead segments. I use meter to battery anyway, but $100, should work. Not sure my meter may confuse CC-CV transition. Like 80-90-100 switch, like on/off switch, like 1-2-3-4-5 amp switch, like aluminum case.

This is helpful if you already have an ebike, But what if you're trying to figure out how big of a battery to buy for a diy conversion kit and you want to get a predetermined amount of miles out of said battery. Is there a rough generic formula to estimate watt hours for flat land and a given rider weight?

i have a kelly 7230 s and need to know what to enable or disable or number to change to get the varable regen brake working can anyone help with this please

Excellent explanation for us layman.

Thanks a lot

I am need of a kelly controller for the Cyclone 3000W motor. My bike uses a 52V battery. Your help is well appreciated so I can get riding again.

Great tutorial. Where can I get that Kelly controller?

Thanks for your video. I do the same thing except I don't calculate for charger loses. Using my calculations, I come up with 273.5wH per 10 miles on my local 10-mile loop of varied road. So, when planning I use 30wH per mile as an estimate. Maybe some others could give their results. Thanks Jonny. Subscribed

Can I use a controller doesn't have a hall sensor with a hub motor with a hall sensor?

Great presentation. My controller shut off after the motor stutterd a few times. Seems I had not pushed the XT 90 connector battery to controller. What model is the controller and where can I get it. Link appreciated Thank you.

plastic gears??? really? well I seem to have a direct drive

☀️ p̲r̲o̲m̲o̲s̲m̲

There are some very important misconceptions in this vid! Battery -> Range Motor power -> Acceleration If your 1000Watt motor is pulling full load (or 1000W), you will be going the same speed as a 500W motor at full load (500W). Your range will not necessarily change with a higher power motor. Your range is only dependent on the amount of energy your bike has and that is solely governed by the battery. ----------Analogy and math---------- --Important variables: Force Time Distance Mass ( Let's say mass = 2 for simplicity) Speed = Distance / Time Energy = 1/2 * Mass * Speed^2 Power = Energy / Time = Force * Speed --Scenario 1: You have legs and energy to pedal your bike. The strength of your legs determines how much power you can apply to your pedals and your total energy is how much effort you can pedal before you get tired and have to stop. Force = 1 Time = 1 Distance = 1 Speed = 1/1 = 1 Energy = 1 Power = 1/1 = 1 --Scenario 2: Your legs become 2X as powerful, but your energy stays the same. KNOWN -> Power = 2X , Energy = 1X Other variables? Time = 1(energy) / 2(power) = 1/2 Speed = sqrt [ 2/2(mass) * 1(energy) ] = 1 Distance = 1(speed) * 1/2 (time) = 1/2 Energy = 1 Power = 2 Thus: 1/2 the distance in half the time when used at full power! Motors, however, do not have to be used at maximum power and a 1000W motor can be used at 500W for comparable range.

Hi John does the middle bearing were the woodworth key goes on the clutch only supposed to spin one way as mine won’t turn backwards

In my experience wattage has nothing to do with range or performance. Speed and power is all about amps. Volts make amps so wattage is really only an issue if the motor can’t handle the heat.

Hi, I want to drag about 200 kg cart with E-bike, what motor shoud i choose? Thanks.

so they are all using permanent magnets as the stator is inside...

Very nice video 👌🏻