วีดีโอ

You probably went the wrong direction and made it tighter 😂

@@teecee4459 nup, correct way, got it out and it was very corroded

It's worth taking the crankset out anyway, then you can have a good feel of the bearings with your fingers to see if it needs replacing

@@vanguardcycles thx for reply and advice, might do that, but probably once I take the cranks off I will install the new BB already just to see how brand new BB feels for future reference ;o] I already upgraded my brakes (from Magura Julie that were impossible to bleed) to BR+BL M6100 with Magura Storm HC rotors and ZTTO ceramic finned pads, shortened both hoses and bled the system, serviced front hub and put new ball bearings in, and today finished servicing rear hub and putting new ball bearings in, including servicing and new balls inside the freehub will also install a new chain which I got (sram pc971) although the old one still shows me just little over 0.25% wear, but since I already have a new one and want a fresh clean one and wanted the chain links for easier cleaning and maintenance been learning about bike servicing for the last two months and ordering parts and tools thanks to great people like you anyone handy enough can do it with the youtube help for sure I would not be able to do it without the help from youtube (for example the freehub shimano no longer sells the Y3A398020 part and they consider it replacement part so they don't have exploded views or dealer manuals for it)

@@vanguardcycles thx for reply and advice, might do that, but probably once I take the cranks off I will install the new BB already just to see how brand new BB feels for future reference ;o] I already upgraded my brakes (from Magura Julie that were impossible to bleed) to BR+BL M6100 with Magura Storm HC rotors and ZTTO ceramic finned pads, shortened both hoses and bled the system, serviced front hub and put new ball bearings in, and today finished servicing rear hub and putting new ball bearings in, including servicing and new balls inside the freehub, also cleaned and lubed the derailer cogs will also install a new chain which I got (sram pc971) although the old one still shows me just little over 0.25% wear, but since I already have a new one and want a fresh clean one and wanted the chain links for easier cleaning and maintenance been learning about bike servicing for the last two months and ordering parts and tools thanks to great people like you anyone handy enough can do it with the youtube help for sure I would not be able to do it without the help from youtube (for example the freehub shimano no longer sells the Y3A398020 part and they consider it replacement part so they don't have exploded views or dealer manuals for it)

I'm really glad it's so helpful! Quite right there's the sleeve error, just shows none of us are perfect I guess 😀

Ahhh brilliant, thanks Clem Fandango! 😀

I agree it can be a bit convoluted! If you go to si.shimano.com and enter the model of the part - in this case bb-mt501 - you can search for the "DM". The DM is the dealer manual, with all the installation info. For a 68mm BB shell (the bike frame) and a normal mounting front derailleur, it's 1x 2.5mm spacer on the left and 2x 2.5mm spacers on the right.

@@vanguardcycles Thank you sooo much!!! To be honest, I have been on that Shimano website with the QR code this morning when I started the struggle. But I get completely lost on their site, just like now when I tried it again. But, since you are so friendly to say where the spacers normally should go, I just do that. And you're right, I have the BB-MT501. Thanks again, you really helped me out! New subscriber here.

@kayasper6081 you're super welcome! I really do need to do some more videos, if there are any topics you'd like to see, please just say!

Shimano says 2 drive side 1 left side for a 68mm shell

Unfortunately I think the answer is "yes" or "because". There's a third size for Dura-Ace too...

Trial and error, otherwise just google your make/model and check the size. Good chance it’ll be 68 or 73mm so add spacers accordingly ig

The spacers are used to ensure correct fitting, chainline etc. Start by checking the width of your BB shell. Then go to si.shimano.com and search for the model no. of your crankset and open the DM (dealer manual). This should have the BB install instructions and confirm the exact spacer setup for your BB shell width.

You're super welcome 😀

The preload bolt or the 2 crank arm bolts? If there's noise I'd stop and investigate, not just keep tightening

Glad it helped 😃

Ummmm......!

I disagree. Your instruction was very much appreciated. 👍

what a stupid comment, at no point he talked excessively and not 100% to the point I've seen videos about BB installation 3 times as long and at no point I thought they talk too much there is an ASMR bike repair channel "Nice Bike Service" if you don't want to hear any advice or tips along the way

Unfortunately I'm a cycle mechanic not motorcycle. I'm not sure mineral fluid is usually ever used in motorbike or car brakes though?

Yes but it does depend on the BB. Shimano press fit BBs are generally single use, for example, so if the sleeve is damaged on extraction it doesn't matter

My pleasure 😊

Good question. Technically all DOT4 should meet the same standards, and be compatible. However for the small quantities needed for bicycle brakes, I'd always recommend buying the smallest bottle as possible. It degrades over time once opened - one of the same reasons brakes need new fluid. Some manufacturers may have better "quality" formulations but yes, in theory any DOT4 should be compatible. Just be sure not to use old fluid.

Great! Let us know how you get on, and if you need any help

The seals and internal parts for DOT brakes aren't compatible with Mineral Oil, and vice-versa. If you put DOT fluid in a Mineral Oil brake, the whole system will be ruined. It's the same if you put Mineral Oil in a DOT brake. Most manufacturers will just say that the system should be written off.

@@vanguardcycles I can understand this for using dot fluid in “mineral specific” brake systems but the other way around shouldn’t make a difference considering the seals would be better in a dot system.

The seals get ruined both ways, I've seen it myself. It's actually a common warranty issue on SRAM DOT brakes, where the piston seals and master cylinder diaphragm swell up and distort when contaminated. That's why the golden rule is "don't mix them up"

​@@vanguardcycles Hi, I am planning to buy an o ring piston seal for my caliper. The caliper uses dot 4 fluid. Do you think the o ring seal I will buy will be compatible with my brake system?

​@@vanguardcyclesthe o ring replacement i will buy is for shimano mt200 which use a mineral oil. Will it work with my dot4 caliper?

It comes with the right puller and cup for BB86, works perfectly

@@vanguardcycleswhat tool are you usuing ? Or what tool from park tool would be the right one to remove gently for a BB86?

It's from BSC tools: www.bicycleservicecentre.co.uk/product/bsctools-pressfit-bottom-bracket-remover-set-2/161?cp=true&sa=true&sbp=false&q=false It's also UCI approved 😀

Brill! Glad it helped 😀

In the workshop video I was using the SRAM Professional bleed kit. However, any generic kit for SRAM and DOT fluid should have the same fittings. If you're in the UK something like the Epic Bleed Solutions kit should do the job - amzn.to/3SGY1B9 (sponsored link). If you're outside the UK let me know and I can give you a hand finding something suitable :)

@@vanguardcycles Hi, I am based in the Netherlands, could you recommend any bleed kit for these MPH brakes? Thank you!

Definitely check out the DOT bleed kits from Elvedes. They do a regular and pro version

It's the BSCTools remover - www.bicycleservicecentre.co.uk/product/bsctools-pressfit-bottom-bracket-remover-set/161

Very glad to have helped out! If there are any other jobs you'd like us to feature, just leave a comment

Thanka very much 😀

You're welcome! 😀

Ah we've got videos showing both removal and installation of HTII cranks on the channel. Removal is here: th-cam.com/video/RrdviIDQLNE/w-d-xo.html Assembly is here: th-cam.com/video/Ql6aFcPiVDo/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps!

You're welcome, glad to have helped! 😀

For shimano no they are slightly different.

Ach there are so many options with Shimano, but usually you use the spacers to adapt a BB for different frame widths

So glad it helped out and well done for the DIY maintenance - keep it up!

I'm so glad! I really try to give as much information as possible, really happy it was helpful and well done on doing it yourself 😀

My sons crank is very wobbly. Does it mean the BB is broken or just needs tightening? Also, where do I get the tightening tool from?

Thanks for adding that! I thought perhaps it was too much detail but you're quite right. With it at 90 degrees the effective moment arm remains the same as when it's calibrated. Away from that and it differs in length, which means the torque reading will be different. To be honest at low torque and with smaller tools it's probably negligible, but it's always worth doing the job properly!

Hiya! Unfortunately Shimano specifically state that the bearings shouldn't be removed from their BB cups, so I don't have that info.

They’re integrated into the cup on most. Get a hope 24mm bb then it’s just 2 mr2437 each time.

Thanks! Keep the hammers for special occasions like birthdays and Christmas 😂

@@vanguardcycles

Would be nice to see the tool being fitted first.

I'll try to remember for next time!

Great!

I guess you mean it's a square taper BB? (rather than something like Octalink). Shimano make a 73x118 BB-UN300 which may well be OK, it will probably make very little (or no) difference to the chainline. If it's a case of installing that vs. writing off the bike, I'd go for it. Hope that helps?

The BB-MT800 is an XT level part, with better quality sealed bearings. The 501 is Deore level. Hope that helps!

I know, it's really annoying. There's also a different tool for road Dura-Ace too!

@@vanguardcycles ah well, I caved and bought an adapter, at least I have a spare bike for now, but I was planning to go for a ride tomorrow haha. First world problems

Quite genuinely in this application, and with a quality stable grease, it really isn't an issue at all. However you could also use a copper anti-seize or something like Park Tool ASC-1, which I believe is aluminium-based.

That's a good point. Whilst things like factory-applied thread lock can help prevent corrosion, in real life a good coating of quality grease or anti-seize is much better. The cups are torqued so high in the frame that they are very unlikely to loosen. In addition, in British threaded (BSA) frames the thread direction coupled with the precession gives a "self-tightening" effect. The key is to prevent the cups seizing, especially if you have a steel frame.