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They are nice little motors just make sure you check operating temperature with a heat gun. So long as you are under 50 degrees on the head you are good. Make sure to flush after every saltwater use in a bucket of water, above the lower unit.

From what I can tell by your description it seems as though the starter is weak and cannot turn the motor over a full revolution. Correct? If so, check and clean all your connections from the battery to the solenoid and to the starter. Then do some checks with the starter and solenoid. A lot of this can be found in the workshop manual and done with a simple multimeter. In the end you may be up for a starter rebuild or replacement. But do all the checks stated above before throwing any coin at it. You don’t want to buy a new starter and have the same problems if you know what I mean 😂

@@BIGRIG2005. the motor turns the engine pretty quick but as soon as the engine want to start up it locks up like as the cylinders are flooded but it isnt . connections are all clean on all the batteries and the connections .

Part 2: th-cam.com/video/t495KaJe-S4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ff4QaouxQaBqcAIG Part 3: th-cam.com/video/ZSkENNJTga0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TowxfgaYLQSjrJrg Part 4: th-cam.com/video/RYZWZe9sWFk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0DfN2FSI3jNFeLAl

Yes most definitely. The magnet won’t pick up Good copper washers. The ones the magnet picks up get thrown straight into the bolt box because they won’t seal diddly squat 😆. Edit: I do the dot method a lot a work. Just a simple paint pen mark and you can look over everything once done to ensure it’s all tight, or if you missed something.

Many thanks 👍. In Part 2 I resealed the injector pump. Shooting part 4 currently, will be a very big video as I did a lot in this one 😂. I did not take the rear cam cover off. To be honest I have no idea how to, but I imagine it’s an o ring holding it in, maybe it pry’s out?

@BIGRIG2005. I'm definitely looking forward to part 4 and for the cover it does look like it might pry out. I watched a video of a dude in India install one while rebuilding an engine and looks like he used some sort of 2 part epoxy to put it back in. It was a great video but unfortunately I couldn't understand what he was saying lol. Keep up the great videos. I'm looking forward to more.

I found part 2 at: th-cam.com/video/t495KaJe-S4/w-d-xo.html

May do it if I run out of videos to do but as of current I have a few already lined up for posting.

Video won’t be too far away, hoping to get it done this week.

I know the pulley you are talking about, I think I just used a prybar behind it to hold light pressure and then gave it a small tap with a hammer and it popped right off. There is a proper bolt you can get to pull it off the crank however.

Thanks very much Grahame!

Good job 👍

Engine is going back into the cart. It is mums Cart and she wants it for a little property runabout.

The 38TD BMC diesel is the motor in the 4/65. Was also found in the 4/60, 10/60 and later the Leyland 384, before the engine received a facelift and changed from 38T to the 4/98.

I had not really even taken notice of it until the last couple of years when I found more out about it. Then one day last week I thought to myself I would pull it out the back of the shed and get it going

​@@BIGRIG2005. I dunno bro I have a 1972 Yamaha dt1 Enduro 360 with 4700 original miles on it I bought it and naturally it decided to blow a hole thru the piston 2.8 miles after I bought it and come to find out there were only 5 OEM pistons I could order and one original top end assembly now there's only 4 OEM pistons left in the market and imma have to get the top end assembly because I let my boss at the shop I work in install my piston rings and he fucked 'em up so bad the cylinder and piston nuked itself within Four minutes of it's initial startup and I was running a 30:1 premix fuel so it had lubrication that wasn't an issue at all

Okay, no problems, but first I need more info. These models have two different starters. The one mine has, which sits to the side and turns the engine by a gear which raises to engage. There is also a starter which the later models have, which sits on top of the engine and spins the flywheel from on top. If you have the later model starter I cannot help you unfortunately as I have never fixed one sorry. Secondly, Has the rope become fully detached from the starter assembly or is it still attached and does not want to retract? If it does not want to return back in, the recoil spring needs repair or replacement. Sometimes the spring skips it’s little spot if you pull the rope out too far and it just needs realigning, that or it is very worn and needs replacement.

Its the exact same as yours, and when i pulled the other day it released and then it broke in half 😅 so i need to find an new rope but luckily i live on an farm so should be easy to find something alike and then reattach it.

@ErikJohansson-zq3up I will have a look at the bottom of it when I get home for you, but it is most likely very easy to fix. You will have to tie a knot at the end, wind it all the way around the starter assembly and then pull it a little through the hole in the cowl and then feed the knob through the rope and tie a knot at the end of that.

Solved it (kind of) i havent found an rope yet but i know how it works now. Thanks for the attention🙏👌

I have the exact same outboard. I always had problems with the Bendix type starter, so I bought a pull cord starter off the later DT3.5 model that sits on top of the flywheel. It was a simple direct replacement and works much better. The only issue I had was I also had to fit the later hood (cowling?). I'd thought I'd be able to simply cut a hole in the existing hood for the pull cord, but it sat too low and wouldn't close. Otherwise a simple job if you can source the parts.

Hi Trevor, yes the pump is a VE, but manufactured/remanned by DAG. I obtained the pump through South Burnett tractor spares in Wooroolin QLD. They ordered it direct from Italy though, so it took a couple of weeks to arrive in the post. I think it cost a little under $3000 with postage included, but it will definitely pay itself off as the machine starts perfectly everytime and runs like a Swiss watch.

No. Unfortunately I did not have one on hand when I changed the oil. When I do the next service next year I will change that.

Thank you, these things are on the bucket list to do. The carb needs a good clean so that will be the next video. Stay tuned!

Cheers mate 👍

Thank you 👍, yes neither can I haha. I believe the 3y3 is a designation code for the model of bike, as there are a couple of different xt250 models. I have also found all sorts of Yamaha bikes have a 3** designation code, so I think it’s just a Yamaha thing for identifying bike types and models.

No, don’t think I bit off more than I can chew with this one haha 👍👍

Hi Grahame, thanks, yep it is an apprenticeship, as a heavy diesel mechanic. Bike is a great gift, only trouble is finding parts seems to be a little harder than expected 😂

@@BIGRIG2005. That’s great. I can foresee your place filling up with unloved machines like MartyT’s. 👍🏻🙏🦘