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I fitted Nitto "for shred" bars onto my bike, they are a fair bit wider but the folded size is pretty much the same. Usually there is a fair amount of room to go wider, sweep or crazy rise is where you run into issues with the folded size.

@@eliotandal sweet thanks!

@@eliotandal just a follow up, you changed bars on an originally S bar brompton? or did you go from an M bar to your new bars?

@@dave_c2805 I swapped from an S bar on the black bike, the sand colour bike was originally a M bar

I think it was a 18.5"

Motorex bearing grease but pretty much any bearing/assembly grease will work

18t is usually the largest you can fit. The newer style 4 speed wheels could fit larger as the cogs sit farther inboard but I do not think the chain pusher would work with that wheel, there does seem to be some aftermarket options out there though.

The 21T is the biggest that will work with the stock derailleur, even it is pushing it a little bit. There are some aftermarket replacement derailleurs available for the P/T lines that allow a bigger range, I might fit one of those in the future. The bigger range is certainly nice.

I would go longer. You can always shorten it if the chain looses tension when you fold the bike.

I would have preferred a more constructive comment but sure

Thanks and noted for future videos

Hey there Kevin, for the 12 speed bikes you do have to change both shifters. What I would do is get a matching Shimano 3 speed front shifter and mount that on the LH side of the bar and use that to shift the hub gear. It should work with the Sturmy hub with a little bit of adjustment. The 10 speed shifter I am using (and all 10s shifters as far as I am aware) mount to the RH side and can not be run on the other side. Alternatively there are some other 3 speed shifters that could be run, the 3 speed Sturmy thumb shifters would work. Other than the shifter, everything else will be the same between the 4 and 12 speed conversions. Thanks for that question. I will do some looking around and update the FAQ.

@@eliotandal hi Eliot, thank you for your careful reply to my message. I wonder if you can clarify one point in your advice? You say, ‘….get a matching Shimano 3 speed front shifter….’ But matching with what? How can I match with a 10 speed or the existing 3 speed Brompton? It’s difficult to know how to go about sourcing such components and getting it right. Sorry for my basic ignorance! Again, much appreciate your time and help. Kevin

Matching to the 10-speed shifter. I used a 10s Shimano Deore shifter for this conversion so the Shimano Deore 3-speed shifter (the one meant for front chainrings) could be used for the hub gears on the Brompton. 3-speed shifters designed for front chainrings are not specifically made to work with the Sturmy hubs but they will shifter everything fine. The indexing of the hub gears is much less sensitive than the derailleur gears so there are more options for shifters that can be used. Other alternatives are the older style Brompton over bar shifters, or the small 3-speed shifters used for 2 to 3-speed conversion on Bromptons.

@@eliotandal Hi Eliot, again many thanks for your careful reply. I intend to look into this conversion with all the items you mention. Fingers crossed it may well work! Thanks again. Kevin

No worries. Looking at the shifter from the cables perspective. All of the references are clockwise to tighten the bolts/nuts. The barrel adjuster is pretty much just a bolt with a hole in it so same thing.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks mate, do you use the quick release system often? I made the front rack removable so I could swap it out for something else but I honestly have never changed it.

I don't use it very often, but when space gets tight, for example on a train, it can save the day

I did add 2mm (if I remember correctly) on each end of the square crossmembers. I did not drill out the round end sections as I left the ends open. I later closed them off with bar plugs so they should also get some drain holes at some point.

Thanks mate!

Thank mate! the front rack is probably a little overkill but it was much easier to weld.

Cheers man!

I actually think the 11 speed stuff lasted a bit longer than the stock parts. The newer chains seem to wear really well compared to older 7/8 speed stuff, maybe better metals or coatings? This bike was my regular commuter as well so it was pretty well used. The only real downside of the 11 speed stuff was the increased cost and a somewhat more fiddly set-up.

@@eliotandalcool gonna try my hand at it. Thanks again!

The frame and spare headtube were both steel so the welding was pretty straightforward.

Thanks mate!

No. There’s no derailleur. And space is limited by the strumy archer hub. The newer 12-speed bikes have a different rear triangle- it’s wider

Yeah the C Line is completely different system. You can add a third cog but it uses different parts.

I’ve done a similar conversion to this on my 4 speed P-Line (now 5 speed) using a kit from Brommie Plus which also modifies the existing Brompton 4-speed shifter. Well worth going

I hadn't seen that kit before I did this, I am a fan of the Shimano shifters from the MTB though

I hadn't seen that kit before I did this, I am a fan of the Shimano shifters from the MTB though

It is surprisingly easy to ride. Unless it has a lot of weight on the front it rides pretty much like a normal bike

@@eliotandal Больше спасибо, хочу позже сделать подобный велик, спасибо за идею!

Hey mate, I have wanted to build a small cargo bike. Maybe a mini velo or something like that so maybe Ill have a video up about that one of these days.

The shifter I used was the Velo Orange thumb shifter mount and an old Shimano down tube shifter. There are some other friction shifters out there, Sunrace is a big one. If you are looking to mount it under the bar like I did you will need to get a front (left-hand) shifter and mount it upside down. velo-orange.com/products/vo-thumb-shifter-mounts-22-2-23-8

I made sure to drill some holes and plug weld the two parts together, this also stress relives the joint but its not really necessary. If the welds are good a butt weld should be fine. Wood would probably be fine, I would tack it and knock it out then weld the rest. I would not use plastic as I think it would contaminate the weld. Keep in mind I am not a welding expert and I try and overbuild if I have any doubts so take my advice with a grain of salt. Hope that helps.