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Are you using a 1x chainring?

Look when this was uploaded, it wasn't Google spying on you and only now showing you this video, it was Abbey who first placed this idea in your head and a week later publishes a new tool to fix it! :)

@@utube7930 no, I use a 2x and I’m guilty of occasionally cross chaining. I plan to be more careful about that now, especially since my experience with waxing has shown that the best chain to use, at least forSTAM, is the Red chain. This is because it comes with far less factory lube and is much easier to clean up before waxing so I get better results. So, given that that is the top-of-the-line and most expensive chain, I’d rather be careful and save the money. I have never worn out a Red chain after waxing it (and we are talking 4000+ km). I wasn’t very clear in my post; the worn out chain was probably already worn out laterally when I waxed it in the first place. The mistake I made was to only measure the pin-to-pin distance without understanding that there was lateral wear as well.

We're making more tomorrow, should have them back in stock in 3 weeks.

The threshold for replacement varies a little from one chain model to another so it's not something we can build into the tool. .75% is a pretty good place for 10spd or newer chains. Some people like .5% for 12spd and above though.

Maybe someday we will hire a marketing person. Until then the toolmakers are going to pretend to be marketing people once in a while.

Works with everything from 1/8" to 13speed.

Different roller diameters will line up slightly different in the V notch. The impact of that variable is good for a .035% difference in reading.

seems like as simple as what we have on the market today

Measuring Linear wear (stretch) is as easy as anything else on the market. To measure lateral wear the chain needs to be off the bike though.

@@abbeybiketools while on the bike, could you not just take the chain off the chainring (to the inside or out), and use that slack to put it on the tool?

Cost-wise, yes, this is best left for pros. Even as a home mechanic (formerly a shop mechanic), I'd like a set since I'm obsessed with removing bearings impact-free. I'll embarrassingly admit I don't spend the bare minimum for tools where precision and good mechanical design is key, which means my current tool arsenal is already pretty expensive and it's not even complete yet. (it's configured to work on rim brake road bikes with mechanical groupsets)

Usually when there's a bearing spacer or sleave in between a pair of bearings it's just a little bit bigger than the inner race. In that situation these tools work well since you can set the C clip to the correct depth and know that you're expanding the collet in the correct spot to get into that small window of room.

For a lot of applications that's an easy way to do it. There are some applications, like having a bearing spacer between a pair of bearings where having an accurate insertion depth is really nice.

Since this method doesn't use a hammer the bearing races should be fine after extraction.

Knipex 4911-A1

@@abbeybiketools Thank you

It is, we acquired the Noble catalog.

We will start taking orders on 4-17 and shipping by May 1st.

You answered your own question. Take a few readings around the wheel and find out where the hanger is bent. If you take a reading at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and they are 10mm different, you know the hanger isn't straight. Using the valve as a reference is nice as it eliminates variables that can be created by an out of true wheel. Once you find out where the hanger is bent, use the tool to bend it back and then repeat the process to see if you need to bend it some more.

@@abbeybiketoolsI tried doing that just now but I snapped the derailleur hanger. I think this tool is more for experienced people who actually know more about cable tension, b-screws etc because I struggle with even just taking the derailleur off and putting it back on again properly. Now my bike is gonna have to go to the shop again for a few days and I won't be able to ride. Same as the last time I used the tool.

@@Jamie-HCLF If you're struggling to get the derailleur on and off the bike this tool might be a bit above your current skill set. Might see if one of your local shops offers a repair class to bring your skills and confidence in doing these tasks up a bit. They aren't hard to learn but having someone walk you through it in person can be very helpful. There's only so much we can help through the internet

You can do it either way, most people put the knurled end in the fingers and leave the smooth side against the rim.

@@abbeybiketools Yeah that seems to make the most sense. Will do. Thanks.