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KSell Garage
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 7 พ.ค. 2020
We sweat, bleed and cry to help you not make the same mistakes when doing DIY car repairs. How to, tips and tricks to repairing your cars issues before they get worse. Make no mistake, I am not a professional mechanic, but I can help get your back on the road and rolling again from your garage without needing anything fancy.
2005 CRV Hood Latch Release Cable Replacement
Been a while since we have posted a new video and we have a lot going on so we kinda rushed through this one to get it out there. Sorry it’s so long.
Changing the hood release cable yourself on your Honda CRV isn’t a complex or expensive job to do. You should be able to complete this in about an hour if nothing crazy goes wrong, which can happen (ie. broken bolts). You may want to get some extra plastic clips just in case (part number below) or just use some zip ties if one breaks.
You will need some basic tools like a jack and jackstands, 19mm lug nut wrench, 10mm socket and socket wrench, trim pop tool and a screwdriver. Probably a light to help see under the dash as well.
Parts:
Hood Latch Release Pull Cable Honda CR-V 2002-2006
Honda Part #74130-S9A-A01ZA
Amazon cheapie I used: amzn.to/3TSnxox
5 PCS Trim Removal tool - I seem to break the expensive ones and the cheap ones, so I buy cheap ones. amzn.to/4enCebh
**I may make a small commission if you purchase recommended products from my links.
Changing the hood release cable yourself on your Honda CRV isn’t a complex or expensive job to do. You should be able to complete this in about an hour if nothing crazy goes wrong, which can happen (ie. broken bolts). You may want to get some extra plastic clips just in case (part number below) or just use some zip ties if one breaks.
You will need some basic tools like a jack and jackstands, 19mm lug nut wrench, 10mm socket and socket wrench, trim pop tool and a screwdriver. Probably a light to help see under the dash as well.
Parts:
Hood Latch Release Pull Cable Honda CR-V 2002-2006
Honda Part #74130-S9A-A01ZA
Amazon cheapie I used: amzn.to/3TSnxox
5 PCS Trim Removal tool - I seem to break the expensive ones and the cheap ones, so I buy cheap ones. amzn.to/4enCebh
**I may make a small commission if you purchase recommended products from my links.
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good job thank you!
You’re welcome!
çok teşekür ederim vidyo için çok faydalı
Gteat video. Makes it look easy.
Thank you so much for this video!!!!! I have a new project!!! Nice and detailed! I also followed your first video as well!!! Thank you!
Glad the videos helped!
Good job!
my stupid ass clip is facing downwards so it is difficult to get the clip off the hose
That happens sometimes. See if you can get some pliers on the hose and turn the whole thing, hose and clamp, to a position you can get access.
Thanks for sharing this. Very helpful.
I know there's an old video but do you necessarily have to take out the motor mount bracket in order to pull up the motor mount cuz I see the three bolts I could take out from the motor mount and then the one that connects the motor mount to the bracket and there is plenty of room just to pull out the motor mount itself but it is necessary to pull out the bracket as well
You can pull the mount by itself, But you will have to remove the battery and battery tray to get the main bolt out that connects the mounts. I find it easier to pull the assembly of the mount and bracket out.
@@ksellgarage yep that actually makes sense thanks man I'm just going to change minds and I was looking at videos before I even looked under the hood thanks for getting back to me appreciate it
Was your Element "idle surging" before changing this sensor? I thought I could hear that when you started it up. That's what mine is doing and I cannot get it fixed!! TIA Edit: my Element is idle surging like yours was doing BEFORE the install.
Oxygen sensor can cause surging but will throw a CEL (check engine light). Idle surging is typically the IAC (idle air control valve) and it doesn’t usually throw a CEL. It is located on the throttle body. Mine got progressively worse, especially during cold starts. I have since replaced the IAC to fix this but have not done a video yet.
@@ksellgarage I was getting both P0511 and P0135 codes, so I replaced the entire throttle body with the TPS and IAC sensor included. It was aftermarket but the idle surge was unchanged after the new TB installation. I was torn between "is this the aftermarket TB not working properly or is this the P0135 issue." My car sounds exactly like yours did at the beginning of the video. I guess I'm going to just install both O2 sensors (up and down stream) since they likely need replaced anyway and I've already replaced the TB with IAC and TPS. I'm just beating my head off the wall trying to get this car running.
Did replacing the TB get rid of the P0511? And did the O2 sensors fix the P0135 and idle issue?
If you are planning on doing this job just spend the money on a weighted socket to use on your impact gun and save yourself the hassle
So my battery died and this happened to my hood latch. After I open it , I need to jump my battery and drive the car to the mechanic. How can I close or secure the hood so I can drive but not lock it down so I'd have to go through this again once I get to the mechanic?
The hood latch basically has 2 stages. The first click won’t hold the hood all the way down but will keep it closed. I probably wouldn’t go over 35 mph like that though.
Just did mine on my Accord, hoping for a little better efficiency 🤷
I have the same car, did you disconected the links and ball joints or just the two bolts from the shock?? I replaced the same axle from autozone but I get vibration at high speed, I have read that if it is not the original you can get those problems
I didn’t disconnect ball joints or end links. Just muscled it in. Aftermarket axles are a hit and miss. I’ve had some good ones and some that vibrate like crazy.
Top
Outstanding, thankyou!👍
Thanks you for your informative video
The close up still of the tools used is a great ideal! 👌
By far, the best video of this procedure. Thanks man!
Glad it helped!
Did you install the bracket upside down? Where’s the ground cable?
Bracket was reinstalled correctly. I have noticed that not every car has the ground strap. Not sure if it is due to where they were assembled or a model year change.
I have a 2003. Just putting back together after major work-timing chain, valve seals, head gasket... I have one extra vacuum line running from the base of the power steering mount, towards the throttle body.. When starting it runs high 2-3K, I've cleaned the IAC valve when dissemsembled. I think this line is from PVC? On some other years I believe it hooks right intake the middle of the intake manifold. But not on mine. Does it hook up at base of throttle body?
There a have been 2 different designs over the years. The one that goes to the nipple between the runners. And the design that goes to the intake manifold right at the throttle body. It sounds like this is what you have. Without that connected it is a large vacuum leak after the throttle body and will idle high and run poorly.
This image shows both designs. drive.google.com/file/d/1ottREXacBkdTy3wIGDDLBo1U8ZYXtAr2/view?usp=drivesdk
I went through the same frustrations as you did with this seemingly (yet deceitful) easy job. PS - The bolt diagrams you popped up were brilliant. Thanks.
Thanks! I was able to do it by pulling on the cable with my hand because I wasnt able with the screwdriver
That’s awesome. It’s not easy getting up in there.
I have a 2006 Honda Crv. A local shop told me they would have to remove and replace the timing cover gasket in order to replace the crankshaft seal. Is this correct or are they trying to scam me?
You definitely don’t have to remove the timing cover to replace the front main crankshaft seal. If the timing cover is leaking too then yes, possibly they aren’t 100% sure what’s leaking and want to ensure all of it is sealed to prevent a bring back.
How many expletives are on the editing floor? I can never fathom the struggle I'm about to get into when I start to work on my car.
Ha ha. I definitely edit out some cuss words, blood, and the occasional throwing of a tool.
Nice tutorial
Thanks
thank you so much ❤❤❤❤❤
Happy it helped!
Like this video cause that's exactly how it is, never know whats going to happen.Real deal video 👍
I believe I may have this same problem.. on my Honda the oil leaks between the tire and rim
the TCS4051 Felo Pro gasket used has an extra ring / gasket, anyone know what's that for?
It's for a seal on the back side of the timing cover. If you're only changing the main seal you can toss that small triangle seal
Thanks for videos
Thanks a lot for the video. I need to do this to a 2003 CRV with 194,000 miles that we've had since 2004. I replaced the oil sending unit, valve cover gaskets and a solenoid gasket but it's still leaking so I imagine that's where it's at. Looks like the hardest part is the belt.
Glad it helped. You should check the VTC screen and gasket on the front of the head as well. It is a common leak point that will seep down the belt side of the motor. I’ll have a video of that up soon.
@ksellgarage 0k thanks!
Thank you so much!!
I installed the PCV like for 30 minutes. I removed the screw from the radiator reservoir for a little space, using a long screwdriver to wiggle the hose so it could move and remove it from getting stuck. Once I saw a gap between the hose and screw, I used a 16 in needle hose pliers to pull the hose, and it popped out. To remove the PCV, I just used a 17mm long wrench and a short ratchet. When putting it back, I used smaller long-nose pliers for the clamp.
This should be a free service from Honda for the terrible design of this vehicle's repairability. You can't access anything and it's the worst fuel consumption of any Honda CRV. Recently it's gone from 18-24 to 13-18. Has an oil leak on belt side but the oil level remains steady. And I'm too afraid to reset the code as it'll die. Everything appears and tests normal but the idle will drop if reset. Know anyone in Los Angeles who understands this car - except Honda, who clearly don't. Big props to you for doing this with one hand!
Check the power steering hose and replace it with the hose clamp; this is the issue on my CRV, thinking it's an oil leak.
Power steering pump is also a common leak in the front of engine. If it’s oil it’s likely either the VTC screen on the head behind the power steering pump or the front main seal.
@@ksellgarage Got me worried about the VTC. I'll check it out. Leak is passenger side bottom but there's a noise when rpm's get to 2500 and disappears if gears change and rpm lowers. No vacuum leak or belt problem. Thought it was trans but sound seems to originate passenger side and is a metallic whistle - like a race but different.... dunno. And lifters are tapping. I need a mechanic in LA that doesn't charge ridiculous LA prices. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@napoleontorrico7164 No leak there....yet. Appreciate the response!
I'm in LA and have a Honda whisperer repairman who only does Honda Acuras. Drop me you contact info if you like
Thank you kind sir I subscribed 🎉
run and drive
Keep it stock
keep it stock and put it back on the trail! Go to the next "Go Devil" jeep run!
Make it original
Go back to original and keep it in the family that’s an awesome Cj2a
*Promo SM* 😌
Was that a new oem seal? And do they all go in that easy?
I used a new Fel-Pro seal. In my experience they all fit the same and slide in easy. Honda has multiple OEM part numbers for this seal. Oil Seal (43X58X7) 91212-PNC-003 (NOK) 91212-PNC-004 (ARAI) 91212-R1B-A01 (FRG-NOK) 91212-RTA-003 Replaced By: 91212-R1B-A01
Thank you so much for this video. I have a leak and thought it was just the power steering return which I will replace along with the belt but you enlightened me to another old seal needing replaced while I'm down there. I've subscribed to your channel not just because my 03 crv needs most of the repairs you have posted but mostly because you don't bullsht through half the video about frivolous crap I have to fast-forward through...not to mention your camera shots are well lit on the parts I need to see. Keep posting it and I'll keep liking them. P.s. thanks for the belt diagram. It was above and beyond the repair and exactly what I needed. Keep on getting down and dirty. Thank you for all you post.
Thanks for your kind words! It’s good to hear my videos are helping because I struggle with the balance of shooting good video and just getting the car fixed and back on the road.
Excellent video
My mechanic quoted me $475 to replace what you just did in under an hour saying 3.5 hours of labor for a $20 part #91212-pnc-004 part number which is different than what you put up plus a solenoid filter. I just replaced the serpentine belt, a/c compressor and power steering pump, solenoid and spark plus. Wouldn't he have seen this leak as he was repairing all the rest of the stuff I just repaid including the solenoid filter?
There are several different Honda part numbers from different manufacturers for the front main seal. I just replaced a leaking VTC screen, (video soon) if he did the power steering pump and ac compressor he should have noticed a leak here. These tend to make a mess and can prematurely kill the alternator as well. The power steering pump and belt tensioner need to come off to replace the VTC screen, and it’s a common leak point. So it would have been good to do when he had all that off.
Good video. What were the symptoms of this worn motor/trans mount? Thanks.
When the trans mount starts going bad you will typically hear a clunk under acceleration and also during hard shifts.
Dropping a wrench...I've never related more to anything in my life.
It’s what I am best at. 🤪
Does it make any sense to put a very thin layer of RTV on the timing cover where the seal mates just in case there is a scratch on the cover? Or maybe silicone grease?
Any leak after few months ??
Still holding. Just sprung a leak at the vtc screen though. 🤪
What’s the Honda part number for that seal?
Honda part # 91212-R1B-A01
@@ksellgarage thank you got it 🙏🏻