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Very helpful! Thank you

Where does that small part go and what is it called

Good info!!!! Thanks!!!

Thanks buddy! Just saved me lots of frustration. 😀

This video saved me!! Same thing I bought a red 2 gallon can with this spout because I needed a can quick and it has been a nightmare. The top o ring slipped so I'm getting gas all over my hand, the stupid sock condom thing. Just all of it. Thank you for making this video because now I can just pour my gas into my mower and unscrew the damn top

I just changed the oil on my ZT3400 and all went well. Breaking loose the top plug with the 1/4 Allen was tough. I bought a new Allen wrench because I was afraid, I was going to strip out the socket with my old one. I use a short pipe as an extension and pulled with a bounce action and it pop off with a loud crack on both sides. I did this first before I took off the filters in case they stripped out, I could still drive it. When I put the filters on, I filled them with oil first to lessen the amount of air in the system. I thought I would lose most of the oil when I screwed them on, but I was surprised to find out I didn't lose hardly any at all. I removed the top plug completely and 2 quarts of oil went in very fast. Then as the oil started to come out the top plug hole, I put the top plug in and filled up the remote tank to the full level. I had to add a little more oil and then it stopped going down. I did the purge procedure as instructed, added a little more oil, and the mower did fine on the first test drive. I think filling the filters with oil really saved me some time purging the air out. 7/25/2024

I'm not super experienced with Hydro transmissions. However, based on my experience, the need for *a good purge is extremely important* I followed one of the many YT instructional videos using Stens oil and some generic filters from Amzn. I followed the same steps as you and cycled the levers 8-10 times forward and back, and it growled like a cat under load. Each cycle was maybe 2 seconds fwd and 2 seconds in reverse. After a lot of head scratching I changed the filters again (lost the oil) thinking they may have been too restrictive. This time I used Hydro Gear filters and SuperTech 20W-50 V-Twin full synthetic oil because that's what I had, and it's very good oil. UOA reports show zinc at 1200PPM. I followed the same purge steps with the engine at 1/3 throttle, wheels off, disengaged, but this time I cycled the levers *slowly* waiting about 5 -6 seconds and stopping for a few seconds at neutral. Next I engaged the axles and cycled 10 times again, slowly. I mounted the tires and took it for a spin. It was quiet and the steering was very smooth and responsive. I think the problem with the first oil change was not an issue with the generic filters, but with the purging process where I cycled too quickly. This is all just a guess. I don't know much about these transmissions and have no idea what else it could have been.

All That work, but you did not do a cooking comparison, so let me explain take your groddy cast iron heat it up then pour in cooking oil, and on that rock salt, then scrub with paper towels and bingo compare say making pancakes with your sanded skillet, or fry up some chicken. Your method makes for a pretty skillet

Can I heat my Dutch oven to 500F? For bread baking?

Thanks for the video, changed hydro oil out yesterday and it went pretty easy.

I appreciate this update. I think I’m going to sand mine but not quite as smooth as yours. 60, 80, and maybe 100 sand paper. Thank you so much!

Thank you

So here's my story: I did this mod some months ago, except I simply ground off the locking edge from the button. Problem solved I just recently added a vent cap to this can (which works great, BTW!), and now it leaks out the button when I pour. I don't know if it did before, but today it does. Took the spout apart, and my small O-ring was just gone. Why? I don't know, but it was gone. I found an O-ring to replace it, but it was still leaking out of the cap. How? Well, I surmised that I was simply pressing the button in too far, allowing the O-ring-section of the center stem to travel outside of its "home tube," and thereby allowing gas to pass by the small O-ring and out the button. Aggravating. I thought I would simply add a spacer under the button to limit its travel. Couldn't find a washer, so I had to cut down a nylon washer about 1/8" thick to where it would fit into the gap. (I think nylon and gasoline are very compatible). Reassembled everything, and _voilà!_ No more leaks when pouring!

I have several lodge pre-seasoned pans and like them very much. Never saw any reason to put that much work into a pan. Mine work great and are non stick and easy to clean. I do a quick re=season each use and they work fine for me.

Great video.

I am completely new to coffee. The instructions say add fresh, cold water. What does that mean? You did something completely different.

I found a spot of something under my sealed hydro on my Ariens Edge. It was clear, thick and sticky......it definitely didn't look like 20w50 motor oil. Do you happen to know if they use a different type of oil in the non serviceable ones?

How did you remove the coil

they used to make cans short and fat to prevent tipover but that would make since.

So....... WHERE did the bolt come from ....... OMG!!

Proper way to test coil : Troy-Bilt Honda GCV160 Ignition Test & Repair by Bill Thomassie

Dude is grounding out the coil with the extra ground he put on it. That ground is how the mower stops the engine via the throttle linkage.

How long did that take you

I saw a video somewhere of a hydro gear tech doing this. He drained it by taking off filters. He refilled through the vents with a 11/16 fitting with a small hose fitting coming off it with a length of tygon tuning coming down. The tube went to a simple hand plungle pump that threadeded on top of his oil container. he pumped till full, reinstalled vent plug, made sure reseervoir was at low cool mark, then purged. I'm going to try to find that fill fitting and pump.

How does it go through the cardboard?

For anyone that has a filter that their filter wrench wont fit, use a leather belt. put it on the filter the opposite way you would normally wear the belt to remove the filter. Trust me it works

Great video

How much oil did it take

I have to do the first hydro service on my Exmark Quest S 50",. Their manual doesn't show where the vent plug is. Not even certain what model the transaxle is. I think it's a 2200. Thanks for this.

I drilled two small holes in the plastic surrounding the button and mash the button down and stick a headless nail thru it to hold the button down.Best to just take off the spout and use a funnel.ha

The way I see it: 1) loosen up the cap of the reservoir 2) Take the bold off 3) take the filter off to drain 4) Bleed My question is this: Why do we have to take the bolt off if the filling will be from the reservoir? Hope someone can help me on this!!!

I have a 6 qt Tramontina dutch oven that I picked up around 5+ years ago at Sam's Club for about $40. It's been fine. I figured I could replace it 5-6 times for the price of Le Creuset... The enamel is starting to discolor a bit, but no chips or cracks. My biggest "beef" is that sauces tend to scorch on the bottom. If I'm making Sunday gravy, I'll do it in non-stick cookware...

Stargazer BEAD BLASTS the surface before seasoning to give a surface that will hold on to the seasoning. Polishing or even sanding beyond 120 is a mistake. You just want to get rid of the pimples and make it flat. NOT a mirror. As the seasoning builds up it will self level and become smooth. Think of seasoning like paint. You never paint a gloss surface. It will not adhere.

Awful quality enamel.

Thank you! Much appreciated

Wow, looks great! But it looks like you took a slower route with a sander. I think the job could be reduced in time with angle-grinder and flap discs. The rpms of the grinder cuts faster. Cost probably the same in materials. One would finish up with the sander.

Bro you've used around $50-70 dollars in sanding pads you could have just bought a already smooth pan and saved a lot time & money. Nice job otherwise.

“Well…they’re an iron pot…there I went over it” 🤣 Love it 👏🏾

Why ?

What model year is your rideon

Unfortunately even tho the pan turned out great and looks awesome it won't hold a seasoning because you made it too smooth

I wore those for a couple years, not the worst boots but I LOVE my Thorogoods now. Made in the USA and the most comfortable I’ve worn.

Pretty cool! Anyone else can just start watching at 11:56 cuz that covers it all.

I watched many reviews of enameled cast iron pans on YT. I can tell this is an honest review of Tramontina class cast irons, if we use them daily basis. Thank you for sharing your experiences.

When a company thats good at this thing starts sellin that thing you already lost me 😅 also any boots without vibram soles aint worth a foot in em

If you take care of your stuff, it lasts

In a comment section full of experts, I'll chime in as well. "Mileage may vary" .... it's the same old tune. One doesn't have to possess a doctorate in metallurgy to attain acceptable results in surface-conditioning a cast iron skillet, besides, what works for you may not for the next ten guys in line. There are literally dozens of variable factors which affect the anecdotal outcome of every pan out there, but it's seems at least logical to look to the more expensive pans available and model your project after what they're selling. Stargazer, Smithey, Field, all for example, machine and finish the cooking surfaces of their products, Lodge doesn't. Get what you pay for ... OR you can buy cheap and put in your own work for the same end result PLUS the sense of accomplishment in knowing you have a one-of-a-kind cooking piece worthy of becoming an heirloom with a story. Jim, you've done a fine job. Ignore the criticism. And for anyone out there cooking in cast iron with metal utensils, washing them with anything more than a fresh oil wipe-down, and NOT sliding your skillet into the oven every time it's hot for a "free" seasoning treatment; may every biscuit you bake taste as rancid as your soul.

You spent more In buying sanding disc then the pan cost

Wow that’s a lot of wear. I have le creuset, Staub and other enameled cast iron. My oldest le creuset were abused because I didn’t know what I was doing. They were over heated,burnt, hit with metal utensils and even dropped a time or two. 11 years later and they are only mildly stained. No rust, chips or scratches, and they still work perfectly. Soak burnt food in soapy water and it wipes right off. The newer le creuset that I didn’t abuse are still absolutely perfect after 2-3 years. Staub looks perfect. And my others (Lodge and crockpot and lava) always look beat to hell after a few months, even though I baby them. I have given up on cheaper enameled cast iron now. Bite the bullet and buy one good one (I recommend Staub if you’re just getting one, they’re incredibly durable). Take care of it and in 5+ years you will be thankful you didn’t go cheap.

Do it with lecrueset