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@@jtravels6785 Hey!! Thanks so much for your support! If you have any questions just ask away! If I don’t know the answer I’m sure chat gpt will lol.

@@seeutube08 thanks!

@@crummycuzz thanks I’m about to make a vlog on that as well!

@@mickeybrumfield764 Yes! There was a huge difference with and without the sound deadening/insulation. Without it, it was more echoey. Also, it definitely made a difference with temperature control.

@VanLifeWithDani Well, thank you. I've got a pop-up camper on order and would like to do something with it as far as sound deadening and insulation. I think I'll do something like you did.

@ glad to have helped!

@@shanemichos3539 Thanks Shane!!

Thanks Shane!!

Hey thanks so much!!! I did a vlog on it in ep 15! Lmk if you have any questions 🙌🏽

@@schoolassignmentsnstuff I don’t have my besties Abby and Shane anymore! They live in California now 😭

Good tip! I will be sure any holes to my cab are 100% sealed. There is only two holes at the moment: one for the exhaust and air intake tube then one for the fuel line and pump wire. The larger hole is definitely sealed with sealant but the fuel line hole needs to be more sealed.

@@thegount3242 yessirrr

@@Court-fl8ck Oh shoot I didn’t get to find many people doing this door thing on TH-cam. Maybe I should keep browsing…Awesome for you though!

Haha thanks so much!! I attribute my character to my mom who raised me as a single mother. I will tell her about your lovely compliment 🥰!!

Hey! You've explained radiation heat transfer well. Rather than using fiberglass (which would be dangerous to use in this close space), I used Thinsulate. Thinsulate has the exact thermal properties I need to reduce conduction heat transfer (featured in ep 10). I highly recommend Thinsulate for a van build! I apologize for not recording in detail how I installed my reflectix. However, you are right on the money that air gaps are needed. My Thinsulate sits directly in contact with the metal van walls. Next, my reflectix sits on the van's structural cross beams, NOT the Thinsulate. If you see in this video, there's about an inch or so of space between the surface of the beam and the surface of the Thinsulate. So that would mean there's about an inch gap between the Thinsulate and the reflectix. Lastly, there's another 3/4in gap or so after the reflectix. This is because I have installed 3/4 in furring strips on the beams (ep 12) which is where my final walls were installed (ep 16). As you may know, air is a poor conductor of heat, so these air gaps slow the heat transfer from the exterior to the interior and vice versa. Therefore, this method of insulating is a viable option for someone wanting to emulate this given that they keep in mind the air gaps like I did. I hope this conversion is informational to others!

@@VanLifeWithDani I seem to have missed some of the details, sorry. Your method raises interesting questions. As generally installed, in a metal buiiding, the Reflectix would reflect heat back to the outer metal layer, If it is installed after the Thinsulite layer it reflects heat radiated by the Thinsulite back to the Thinsulite. How effective this is would depend upon the emmisivity of the Thinsulite, which I would guess is lower than that of steel.I would guess that theThinsulite will transfer heat mostly by creating a convection cell in the air gap between it and the Reflectix. If that is correct, then the Reflectix will add only slightly more than 1.1 R. The aluminized face that is on the interior side has a low emmisivity, so it will transfer heat by converction in the air gap on the interior side. It would be more effective if the build was van shell, air gap, Reflectix, Thinsulite/interior panel. You could replace the air gap with additional Thinsulite. I've never done a van conversion like your impressive project, but I have done steel instrument shelters. Balancing material cost and labor we settled on rigid foam sheets for the interior walls and the underside of the roof. The foam sheets have an aluminized face, so they replace Reflectix where an air gap is possible. The shelters are primarily for weather protection and daytime heat control. We want the interior temperature to come down fast at night when the roof is open. When the roof is closed and there is condensation on interior surfaces, a small heater raises the temperature very quickly.

@@fred1barb Yea i did consider doing it reversed like you mentioned, reflectix first then thinsulate. However, after analyzing it, I believe thinsulate first was the ideal option as it greatly reduced conduction heat transfer which I believe was the more pressing item to reduce first. Adding reflectix was my option but I also considered reflective foam boards or reflective metal sheets. Some van converters CACOON their interior with the metal sheets but it was not ideal for me with wanting use to rivenuts and furring stirps. Either way, adding reflectix was not very costly with $20 a roll, using about 3 rolls. I do believe it is adding some value to my insulation!

@@VanLifeWithDaniYour project, your choice. I think it might be very difficult to measure the actual difference either way. Keep on going.👍

Tee hee thanks so much🤭 !!!

@@VANESSASVANLIFEJOURNEY Thanks so much!! Let me know if you have any questions 😊

@@VanLifeWithDani I have lots of questions is there any way that you can just do a video on the pocket door. Also I think you would get more views just on the door. You can show us how you made it and how it looks now. Thanks❤

@@VANESSASVANLIFEJOURNEY Sure! I’ll do a more detailed video with drawings and explanations.

@@christinefriar2788 thanks so much!!!

@@gabebelanger2424 yea I slightly fixed it! Heh

@@VinceRoberts1 Thanks!

@@schoolassignmentsnstuff hehe 🤭

@@TravelingGamer_ yea this one is an original! I didn’t find any van builders with sliding doors I was looking for so I just conjured up something to do the job.

@@thegount3242 Thanks for the appreciation! I’m still trying to learn as you can see in my feeble string play.

@@Tns26soossoso It was indeed very hot and humid…. But alas the build must continue! Definitely traveling to colder weather once the build is complete.

@@VinceRoberts1 Ah yea luckily my ceiling wasn’t too curved and it sat pretty good! It was the darn individual plank tongues and grooves that were slightly warped that made it difficult to install. Plus holding them in place AND nailing them in with the nail gun, definitely an upper body workout for me…

@@TravelingGamer_ No you wire your own dang wires! Lol but thanks for the kind comment! Wiring them myself wasn’t easy and I definitely understand why people get thick calloused finger pads now after twisting a bunch of wire ends myself.

@@VanLifeWithDani Lol hey, I had to ask. 😉 These are all playful jokes. I have things wired up pretty well and because I went with a more simple setup I didn't need nearly as much wiring as you had to do. Still, digging the build. ❤️

@@TravelingGamer_ haha yea of course!

Oh yea that would make the same finished look as tongue and groove!

@@amendippanesar Haha right?! I loved troubleshooting my own electrical problems and solving them 🤓

@@gabebelanger2424 thanks so much!!

I have a scar on the top of my right hand now 😅 ALWAYS WEAR PPE!! Like gloves 🧤

NO IM HER BIGGEST FAN!! WHO DO YOU THINK YOU ARE HUH? 😝

Lol thank you for the support it means so much to me 🤗

@@Tns26soossoso Hey Taylor! Thanks so much! I’m going to try to explore more ways to create more captivating vlogs 🤓

@@thegount3242 going for a homey kind of spaceship

@@thegount3242 oh yea cause you’re vegan right?

Glad you like it !

Yea of course! I ended up buying a router with a bunch of different heads which proved very handy. I use PPE and handle them safely 🤓

@@warriorhunter6182 hey! Yes this series will be in my “Van Building” playlist then I’ll continue my vlogs based on my travel adventures! Thanks so much for the support 😊

Yes

Thanks!

Tell me about it!! I’m trying to set sail but the weather is against me 😅

You da best in the world