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Great, I hope if works.

Test to make sure that the CR touch switch is working. If there is a bad connection or you don't have the software installed for the CR touch, then it won't work right.

Thanks. I'll try and improve the lighting next time.

Try resetting the z offset and then re-probe. See this video. th-cam.com/users/clipUgkxpIH8VI1j320Lj_U5h-QQdPfLzmJUnnGs?si=ER14RkWMbUZmOwPX

I didn't realize I had it set to bin2 in the video. Most of the time I use bin1. You might need bin2 depending on the sensitivity of the camera and the seeing conditions.

You probably need to reset the z offset and then re-probe. See this clip to get you started. th-cam.com/video/X4Y-5WifAac/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mSDSR9s0czio13Ld

@@MyEngineeringProjects thanks so much I’m going to try this I thought I had to sell my printer because of it

@@Nature-w4b Great I hope you can get it resolved.

I'm not sure about that, I have not seen it. I use PS Align Pro for that purpose.

@@MyEngineeringProjects Thanks.

Interesting. Maybe they changed their menus even with the same model.

Glad it helped. I've had issues like this in the past and it can get frustrating when you cannot continue your imaging session. Clear skies.

Wow thank you for the super thanks. I appreciate it. Glad I was able to help solve the issue.

Glad I could help. I think they often just rebrand the same product so in this case the menu options are the same.

You're very welcome! I'm glad it helped

I just use household vinegar that you can get at the grocery store

Awesome. I’m glad I could help.

The chatter you hear is the stepper motor stalling due to an obstruction. Stepper motors work by moving in small steps, then another step and so on. When the stall, they cannot advance further, so it makes a loud bang. It's possible to destroy the motor driver if left in this condition and/or damage the stepper. So if it happens, then shut off the power and investigate. Now the issue you are describing is likely that the limit switches are not connected. Very rarely, the switch itself will fail, but it's far more likely that it's a connection issue The board tells the motor to keep going until it reaches the limits. The switches opens (or closes) and that tells the board where the limits are. So I would check your limit switches first and use an ohm meter to make sure when you manually press the switch, the signal goes all the way to the board. Always do this test with the power cord unplugged from the wall.

That's essentially how I wired it when I moved the positive power lead to the opposite end. In this configuration, the power connections are diagonal across the battery pack. This is a good solution.

@@MyEngineeringProjects ah very good

I'm not quite sure how you are wiring this. When you say one clip per battery are you saying 4 total which is 2 for positive combined to the positive on the inverter and same for the negative? Normally we use wires or buss bars to connect positive to positive and same for negative when wiring in parallel. In any event, charging the 2 at the same time results in double the time to fully charge. If the 2 batteries are not matched - say one is failing, then it will consume energy from the better battery.

@@MyEngineeringProjects Sorry for the confusion- cables- so pos to pos and neg to neg short cables. The inverter gets the pos from one battery and neg from the other battery so the closest one isn't doing more work than the other and to try an balance the two as best as this allows. Buss bars would no doubt make that more accurate!

Ok now I see how you are doing it. Even if you use the same size charger, that's ok, it just takes a bit longer. I'd let it charge all the way up to the top and see what happens. When you charge any battery to the top then remove the charger, it's totally normal for the voltage to drop immediately. It will then settle down to the rest voltage. What would be a problem is that if they kept dropping and never stopped. This would be indicative of a bad cell somewhere.

Yes it is surprising. That's why I wanted to measure it to verify what the problem really is. Current will follow the path of least resistance and the wires definitely matter, even though they are short.

Yeah I have a lot of projects going on at the same time. I need a bigger shop.

Buss bars are the best

The batteries have a maximum current of 20 amps and it limited to that by a BMS. A #10 wire for chassis current can handle more than 20 amps (it's only 2 inches long). It is true that the smaller the wire between batteries the more you will see current differences when wired incorrectly. However, even with a buss bar, it's still recommended to not take off power from just one end but instead distribute it evenly.

Yes it sure does

Happy to help

I’m glad it helped.

What issue are you having with your extruder?

@@MyEngineeringProjects the filament refuses to go into the hole that leads to the bowden tube (screw is not the issue apparently) also the bowden tube at the hotend can't be taken off for some reason, i know it's clogged so that's an issue

good points. I tied the batteries together with blocks to prevent movement but I like your idea.

Does it go through the correct plate measurement procedure in all 9 spots? Have you leveled it manually before the Z offset probe so that you have as even a distance to the nozzle as possible?

@@MyEngineeringProjects First i reset all and delete the older mesh. After that I autohome and probe de z offset and test the 4 corners using a sheet of paper. Once I think its ok I let the printer create the mesh. My printer probes 16 points

Ok what I would try next is to check the level as you just described, then probe the Z offset in that order instead of before.

Awesome, glad it helped.

You may have an open issue that the developer is aware of. See this issue on github: github.com/zackelia/bclm/issues/49

rez

I’m really happy with them. The extra capacity helps

The star hasn’t gone supernova yet

Sure. I put 2 color camera in the description. The first one is 2.9 MP and is most similar to the model I used. For better resolution, I also put in an 8.9 Mp version

Thank you. Glad you liked it.

Thanks, glad you liked it.

Probably a couple of things you can do. See this clip to set the Z offset. Note that I'm using a couple of pieces of paper for a bit of clearance. th-cam.com/users/clipUgkx9Zt5NWmynSjB49YG-OsmefEXWfeBdWLx?si=niXFP7mQNcw6eEHR Next thing, make sure your bed is a "level" as possible, meaning that the distance from the bed to the nozzle is as consistent as you can get it. You don't want one side higher than the other as this may result in one side being ok then it scrapes on the other.

Does it work when you use the menu commands to extrude a bit of filament? If not, then check the extruder. Could be a tension issue or a broken part as I had in the video.

@@MyEngineeringProjects yes it does work when I use the menu controls that’s why I’m so confused I ordered a new hot end and I’m up grading the tube do you think anything else could be wrong

Ok. Have you tried a different print file? Maybe there’s an error in the code.

@@MyEngineeringProjects yes I have and it still wasn’t working

That is hard to troubleshoot. The only other thing i can think of is a setting in the slicer program.

That's always a good option. Personally I have not had issues with a screen.

Thanks for letting me know. I'm glad it helped.

Most likely it's a connection issue at the motor or the board. Look carefully at the plug and make sure it's correctly installed and all the way in. Try to move the z-axis from the menu commands as well.

@@MyEngineeringProjects I'll try connection but I think I made a firmware mistake as stated in video because my stepper goes up but not down and after much investigation I may have had a preset file still on sd when I tried installing new firmware that may be the issue. Any thoughts?

I don't have a cat, but others have commented in the past. I think it would work fine.

Awesome, glad it helped.

Glad you liked it

@@MyEngineeringProjects It worked extremely well. The only change I made is using a IR temp gun to monitor the board temp as it heated up. But the old LED board is up and running again. On the cheap :)

Anytime, glad it helped.

I'd have to go back to the video and check my step size. If the step size is small, it takes a long time to calibrate. I think the default is 2000. As far as the setting for RA and DEC, I set these for the best tracking and pay no attention to which one is larger. I just want the best resutls.