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You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.

I'm glad it helped! The tape trick is quick and easy.

That is awesome. So glad it worked out for you. My experience was similar and it's frustrating wasting time on issues like this. Clear skies.

That is an internal reference square wave designed to be attached to the probe. It's about 5v and is not dangerous.

@@MyEngineeringProjects my concern is what if someone attempts to hook their probe up to a full current supply circuit? I'm wondering what type of current might be flowing through that metal jacket . . . definitely worth a discussion as I'm just not sure what that device is doing inside . . . you do mention its an unusual connector while touching it so props there. I notice some of these portables are attempting to shield the connectors with plastic housings so people can't touch the metal connector components.

@@MyEngineeringProjects yes, the worry is someone will try to connect it though, to a live full supply current if they lack your knowledge. I really like the idea these battery powered devices are isolated from the ground that is a problem in desktop oscilloscopes, but that may not stop someone who lacks your knowledge from basiclly sticking a fork in an outlet or knife in a toaster to get their bread unstuck . . . how do we improve poeple's awareness of these things as there are a lot of people out there who will kill other people by putting up some ridiculous woodburning video about using microwave oven components to power a setup . . . it is basically pure evil for people to put that type of video online and then throw their hands up and say "do at your own risk"

Awesome. I like mine. Its very handy

Yeah it’s used to match the square wave reference signal. Mine was out of wack when it got it and the screw adjustment worked

@@MyEngineeringProjects So, you just adjusted your meter to what you wanted it to show..? Right! `On It!

Probably not, it's just a prototype demo battery.

I'm not sure what you are asking.

I read salt battery working temperatur is 250​@@MyEngineeringProjects

Oh i see what you mean. I think you are referring to the liquid salt concentrator type of battery. This type of battery stores thermal heat so it can be discharged 24 hours a day. This is not a chemical reaction but a thermal storage system which differs from the type of battery i made for this video.

You can buy a basic 3D printer for $189 plus you'll need the parts and filament to build the telescope. You could buy a similar commercial scope for a bit more like the Powerseeker. This project is not about saving money but having fun building your own. I had a blast building mine.

I have not tried this with a USB drive, only with SD cards. Not sure why it didn't work.

@@MyEngineeringProjects Ended up reinstalling the whole lot. i didn't want the GUI but forgot to pick the right image. preset the ssh creds so i didn't notice i had a gui till i tried gparted.

Yeah it does a lot for such a small and inexpensive device.

It works just fine.

Glad it helped, I hope you enjoy your new finder.

Sounds like a good deal

That's a bummer. If it homes fine but crashes during a print, check to see if the bed is a level as possible on all 4 corners. What might be happening is that the center is ok which is why it homes correctly, but then one side may be off enough to scrape the nozzle during a print.

I cannot say that this will work perfectly but it might. You can place the batteries in series to make a 24V battery. The question is to what voltage does the original UPS charge to? The Ecoworthy batteries have a built in bms so it should shut off the charging even if the UPS tries to charge to nearly 30V (close to 15V per battery approximately). The Ecoworthy batteries really need a charger that stops at 14.6V per battery.

Should work ok for that purpose

@MyEngineeringProjects ok thanks

Simply add more cells in series. You would need to approximately double what I did in the demo to reach this range. Each cell's voltage is added to the next.

The goal here would be to increase the surface area of the metals. The ions when charged are stored here. The electrolyte just needs to be sufficient to pass the ions from one metal to the next.

Great, I hope if works.

Test to make sure that the CR touch switch is working. If there is a bad connection or you don't have the software installed for the CR touch, then it won't work right.

Thanks. I'll try and improve the lighting next time.

Try resetting the z offset and then re-probe. See this video. th-cam.com/users/clipUgkxpIH8VI1j320Lj_U5h-QQdPfLzmJUnnGs?si=ER14RkWMbUZmOwPX

I didn't realize I had it set to bin2 in the video. Most of the time I use bin1. You might need bin2 depending on the sensitivity of the camera and the seeing conditions.

You probably need to reset the z offset and then re-probe. See this clip to get you started. th-cam.com/video/X4Y-5WifAac/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mSDSR9s0czio13Ld

@@MyEngineeringProjects thanks so much I’m going to try this I thought I had to sell my printer because of it

@@Nature-w4b Great I hope you can get it resolved.

I'm not sure about that, I have not seen it. I use PS Align Pro for that purpose.

@@MyEngineeringProjects Thanks.

Interesting. Maybe they changed their menus even with the same model.

Glad it helped. I've had issues like this in the past and it can get frustrating when you cannot continue your imaging session. Clear skies.

Wow thank you for the super thanks. I appreciate it. Glad I was able to help solve the issue.

Glad I could help. I think they often just rebrand the same product so in this case the menu options are the same.

You're very welcome! I'm glad it helped

I just use household vinegar that you can get at the grocery store

Awesome. I’m glad I could help.

The chatter you hear is the stepper motor stalling due to an obstruction. Stepper motors work by moving in small steps, then another step and so on. When the stall, they cannot advance further, so it makes a loud bang. It's possible to destroy the motor driver if left in this condition and/or damage the stepper. So if it happens, then shut off the power and investigate. Now the issue you are describing is likely that the limit switches are not connected. Very rarely, the switch itself will fail, but it's far more likely that it's a connection issue The board tells the motor to keep going until it reaches the limits. The switches opens (or closes) and that tells the board where the limits are. So I would check your limit switches first and use an ohm meter to make sure when you manually press the switch, the signal goes all the way to the board. Always do this test with the power cord unplugged from the wall.

That's essentially how I wired it when I moved the positive power lead to the opposite end. In this configuration, the power connections are diagonal across the battery pack. This is a good solution.

@@MyEngineeringProjects ah very good

I'm not quite sure how you are wiring this. When you say one clip per battery are you saying 4 total which is 2 for positive combined to the positive on the inverter and same for the negative? Normally we use wires or buss bars to connect positive to positive and same for negative when wiring in parallel. In any event, charging the 2 at the same time results in double the time to fully charge. If the 2 batteries are not matched - say one is failing, then it will consume energy from the better battery.

@@MyEngineeringProjects Sorry for the confusion- cables- so pos to pos and neg to neg short cables. The inverter gets the pos from one battery and neg from the other battery so the closest one isn't doing more work than the other and to try an balance the two as best as this allows. Buss bars would no doubt make that more accurate!

Ok now I see how you are doing it. Even if you use the same size charger, that's ok, it just takes a bit longer. I'd let it charge all the way up to the top and see what happens. When you charge any battery to the top then remove the charger, it's totally normal for the voltage to drop immediately. It will then settle down to the rest voltage. What would be a problem is that if they kept dropping and never stopped. This would be indicative of a bad cell somewhere.

Yes it is surprising. That's why I wanted to measure it to verify what the problem really is. Current will follow the path of least resistance and the wires definitely matter, even though they are short.

Yeah I have a lot of projects going on at the same time. I need a bigger shop.

Buss bars are the best

The batteries have a maximum current of 20 amps and it limited to that by a BMS. A #10 wire for chassis current can handle more than 20 amps (it's only 2 inches long). It is true that the smaller the wire between batteries the more you will see current differences when wired incorrectly. However, even with a buss bar, it's still recommended to not take off power from just one end but instead distribute it evenly.

Yes it sure does

Happy to help

I’m glad it helped.

What issue are you having with your extruder?

@@MyEngineeringProjects the filament refuses to go into the hole that leads to the bowden tube (screw is not the issue apparently) also the bowden tube at the hotend can't be taken off for some reason, i know it's clogged so that's an issue

good points. I tied the batteries together with blocks to prevent movement but I like your idea.