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/cough Video Description /cough... 😏

There are no plans to share this variant without optimizing it first.

@@Duraltia Yup. Got that.

Are there plans now?​@@Duraltia

I don't mind Angles; I just think the now StealthBurner no longer meshes with the rest of the Voron Design ( like the Z-Drives ) hence my Quest to bringing the Tool Head back in line with the rest of the Machine. Perhaps one day I'll take a peek at the design of the Skirts 🤔 The Apple Cheesegrater design might work for them 🤣 In case you're interested - Here's some better lit photos of the Printer ( imgur.com/a/JUczQra ) including the inside the CPAP Tube routed PTFE Tube - Something I'm hoping will help me with printing PLA in an otherwise ASA print without the PLA getting soft before reaching the Tool Head though considering the temperature's I've reached inside the Enclosure today I may end up having to incorporate a CPAP Bypass System for sucking in fresh Air while printing PLA 😑

A Beier SFR-1-D ( www.beier-electronic.de/modellbau/produkte/sfr-1-d/sfr-1-d.php ) with mostly stock Engine and Track Sounds shipping with it. The various Cannon Sounds were picked up from TH-cam / the iNet ( as was the Turret Rotation sound - At least I think it was 🤔 ).

That's rich coming from you 😏

@@Duraltia I know, you welcome.

Something akin to the what the original would have used: i.imgur.com/C3sOZ3N.png > i.imgur.com/TtKzfe1.mp4 Essentially a Tiger like Suspension Arm ( minus the Torsion Bar inside the Hull ) guiding the Bogey with two Coils providing the Suspension. What I'm lacking compared to the original is a Damper situated on the inside of the Hull 😏

@@Duraltia wow, very ingenious and very close to the real thing

TH-cam at its finest attracting ppl to vintage content 🤣 To be honest I have no idea if they have a specific name... 🤔 They were basically just what came with the Receivers back then 🤨 Two straight Antennas always at risk of falling into the Props of the Quad and getting chopped in half if their Locking Nuts came loose which this Clip solved by securing them into a 90° ( or 60° using a different Version ) Angle 😁

Raises hands in ignorance... 2A7+ was what the Armor Package Upgrade Kit was named where I purchased it from. This picture of it tinyurl.com/bdfdcrzn has a 2A7 on the sign in front of it ( and I think also a hard to make out + ) soooo... 🤔 Dunno? 🤨 Maybe the Creator of the Armor Package Kit went with the Naming Convention that held true at the time and KMW changed it since that Exhibition? Or someone messed up the sign back then 🤣

Dutch Filament ASA-X Grey and Formlabs Standard Grey 04

No idea 🤔 I've edited the VFD's Settings maybe once or twice during the initial setup _years_ ago and would have to go through the Manual again to learn how it was changed... TBH, I'm actually surprised the RPM not being the default view for you 🤨

@@Duraltia well seeing yours being the exact same as mine gives me hope that I can change it lol. I have gone through the manual but couldn't see anything about changing it. I can do the maths but I'm lazy so I'd rather avoid it lol.

I've received that 400LED version directly from the Creator back then but don't bother - You're better off using a dedicated RBPi and a Rulz MS2109 Capture Dongle running HyperHDR for a much smoother operation.

Trust me... The noise will be your least concern if you place it IN your Bedroom... The FUMES will be the most likely dealbreaker. I have mine situated in a room inside a closet next to the bedroom and as such I'm hearing it fairly well but the draft that goes through my flat moves through my bedroom and past the Closet into the Bathroom where it exits so at least I got that problem solved.

and he angeled today ;-)

There are worse things to fret about. It's a model of a never brought to completion _and_ long since been scrapped E-100 - How _could_ it be accurate? I wanted an E-100 that didn't look practically identical to my King Tiger and the Maus Turret was the most distinctive option, so I ran with it.

@@Duraltia ah, gotcha! It’s still a very awesome model! I hope someone digs up the real one some day

Little large? Still killer build tho brother

@@RxTx88 The Turret dimensions were taken for the most part from a 1/35 Maus Model only slightly adjusted for the width to match that of the Chassis ( without the Skirts ). But yea... The Turret looks kinda oversized, but it grew onto me very fast - Reminds me a bit of the Russian KV-2 with a similarly hilarious sized Turret 🤔

@@RxTx88 the e-100 hull was incapable of using a maus turret.

Installed is a *_Beier_*_ SFR-1-D_ A.I.O. with mostly stock Sounds for everything related to the Driving and a bunch of custom ones I cobbled up together for Stuff happening in and around the Turret like the various Shot Sounds, etc...

@@Duraltia nice, thank you ;)

Yes, it is indeed my own: imgur.com/a/a0fBDzZ I'm neither selling the Model, a Kit, the STLs or the CAD as such your best bet in getting one ( _somewhat_ resembling mine ) would be by paying the Hooben-Shop a visit or designing and building your own with off the shelf parts like I did.

Hi. Thanks for the info 😉

@@Duraltia I would avoid Hooben like the Plague, I have their Maus, its the worst RC tank I have ever laid eyes on and their E-100 looks like more of the same.

@@STHV_ Can't really comment on Hooben... I only have a set of their Maus Tracks for when I plan to make my own probably sometime after the VT 1-2 ( can't be bothered 3D Printing my own Tracks again like I did with the E-100 ) which seem to be _ookaay_ ( they're rough but them being hidden underneath the Skirts who cares ). But yea... The RCTank Forums I frequent discussing Hooben do give the impression of their models being kinda a hit or miss thing with some being decent and others falling apart as you drive them around. Personally my biggest turnoff with their E-100 ( or Maus ) were the obnoxiously visible Assembly Screw locations which is why I never bothered with them despite Hooben being one of the _very few_ companies I know of making either an entire E-100 or even just parts for it.

@@Duraltia Those screws are held in by nuts secured with a rather weak glue to some internal brackets. I have also figured out that they copied a 1/35 Dragon Maus kit for the entire thing as the Hooben Maus has all the same errors like the flat lip at the bottom of the turret face! The gearbox arrived broken and as such the vehicle cannot turn at all and constantly hesitates when driving. All of the detail parts are plastic including the mantlet. The elevation drive is so poorly made that it broke itself due to it not having any kind of limiter. It has many other issues and it would require a complete rebuild including a new turret to get it to anywhere near a decent state. It had so many issues and was so far from what was advertised that I tried to get a refund from Hooben but they tried to blackmail me so I just went to my bank. Hooben never responded to them so my bank reversed the payment and I got to keep the tank effectively for free! Its currently collecting dust as I'm working on a custom full metal Panther Ausf D but once that is done I'm thinking of making an E-100 alongside the Maus rebuild as they were competing programs IRL.

Autodesk Fusion 360

Don't bother... Go with Hyperion or HyperHDR ( a HDR specific Fork of Hyperion if you need to go that route ) for which there are plenty of tutorials out there. Unlike the AmbiBox I ran back then It'll act as a more reliable Standalone System independent of your PC and the Signal Wiring is also less of a hassle so it's a Win/Win over AmbiBox.

Have a look at the *_LightBurn_*_ Print and Cut_ Feature: th-cam.com/video/n__saOKVupA/w-d-xo.html - It allows you to realign the LightBurn Workspace to the Physical Workspace in your Laser Machine using the actual Laser and two Reference Points present on both Workspaces. This is useful if you need to recut an already moved Sheet of Material because you were too optimistic with the Lasers cutting capability or because you needed to perform an intermediary step between the two Laser operations. It also ( as shown in the above link ) allows you to do larger cuts than your machine would otherwise be capable of by embedding the first Operation with Markers the second Operation will then use as a Reference. All of these actions require Laser Precision™ ( i.imgur.com/260pMcE.mp4 ) to pull off which the low-res Camera just can't provide. Problem is... These CO² Lasers working in the IR Spectrum makes them invisible so you need the help of another one you can see during the Print and Cut Alignment Procedure. Enter the Red Dot Laser whose visible light can be merged into the path of the invisible CO² one thus acting as Guide.

@@Duraltia Sweet! I'm going to have to look into this more. My Gweike RF should be here in the next few weeks.

@@Duraltia are you going to be publishing your Fusion 360 file somewhere? Or even selling it somewhere?

​@@blondefoxcreations G·Weike seems to be a Company that likes to make unannounced and poorly documented changes to their Machines which poses the risk of my Beam Combiner no longer matching that of a newer Revision resulting in the CO² Laser firing into the immediate Area surrounding the Combiner Lense instead of cleanly firing through the latter. Depending on the Plastic used for 3D Printing the Part(s) this _will_ result in setting it aflame as there's no Air Assist ( like at the Nozzle ) to prevent a fire which already is an issue in itself but on top of that may also end up releasing Cyanide Gas ( ABS would ) which is not exactly the healthiest medium to breathe in... As such... HELL NO! I'm neither sharing ( the Plans / Files ) or selling this MOD. If someone wants to kick the bucket they've got to do it on their own terms - I'm just giving a conceptual nudge in the right direction 😁 But if you bought the RF Modell, then you _may_ not even need this MOD to begin with as I was kinda under the impression for that one to have a built in Red Dot 🤔

@@Duraltia LOL. I completely understand. Nice work!

If its a possiblility i would love to have the eps / .ai / svg version of this so i can make it for mine :D i love it!

Yea... I'm a bit of a GuP ( actually Anime in general ) _"Enthusiast"_ 😅 Was at some time planning on buying a bunch of 1/16 scale GuP figures ( i.imgur.com/9win9zO.jpg ) and match them to my models as Commanders by Modifying them but that kinda stalled 🤔 I think it'll probably turn out nicer to just learn something like Blender and make my own custom GuP Figures with nice dynamic poses 😁

@@Duraltia making your own figures seems like a pretty good idea, since anime merch can get pretty expensive

Thanks! Kinda weird for Red Dots not come standard with these Machines... Costs me like 50.- all parts included - Probably in the range of half of that if you'd buy it in bulk as a company making these Machines. As for the Tube... Yeaa... The Tube being on the Gantry sounds kinda cool but IMHO is a terrible concept because of all the weight now messing with the Y-Axis Movement to the point where I can't do Line Engraves above 30mm/s as otherwise the Inertia from the Tube will cause the Laser to Overshoot when going from a Y-Axis Motion to an X-Axis one. Strangely enough doing 150mm/s is fine when doing Lines with harsh Corners as the Controller seems to recognize them and appropriately slows the Axis before reaching it but the second a Corner with a Radius makes an appearance it goes south 😕 Also, anything above 200mm/s will cause the Y-Axis Motors to lose Steps with the same being true for the X-Axis Stepper once you try doing like 450mm/s despite their Marketing claiming the Machine being capable of 600mm/s. And then there's the issue with their Material Profile Settings suggesting Laser Power Values in the 80%, 90% and 100% range despite the Machine apparently being locked to 75% - If you do a Power Test while observing the in the Machine embedded mW Meter you notice its reading plateauing after reaching the 75% Value - Drives me Nuts 😑

@@Duraltia Yeah... I agree with the whole "tube on gantry" business being a bit of a quirky idea. Partly why I was having such a hard time making sense of the optical path of this machine just from your imgur post. Tube wiring and cooling hoses must also be ..."fun and interesting" on this machine. Or is the reservoir also mounted on the gantry? (not many pictures of the insides of these online. That analysis you make about the smooth corners vs. the sharp ones makes quite a bit of sense, as with the smooth ones the direction change is not as sudden, and the controller might be thinking it's fine with it, even at high speeds, and doesn't need to compensate, when in reality does. I doubt you have any sort of firmware controls available for these motion-planning fine settings, but perhaps you can adjust the acceleration? (i.e. decrease it?) This would obviously make it accelerate more slowly, but might get rid of the overshooting problem. Curious what kind of controller it has. Will leave these links here for others interested in motion planning: smoothieware.org/motion-control reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,739819 And yeah, its very frustrating when there seems to have been poor communication or consensus between the engineering and marketing departments for a product. But in regards to the power profiles for materials, just to see if I understood you correctly, do you mean a 75% power PWM signal and a 85% power PWM signal both give the same reading on the embedded ammeter? (it is an ammeter is it not? in mA?) Cause if it does that doesn't make sense to me. What makes sense to me is the power supply being limited to a global value, and then the PWM signal being used to control a percentage of that. So from 0% to 100% of 75% of the tube's rated output. (75% or whatever safe value you limit your max output to). But that it 'plateaus' as you say definitely sounds weird.

@@Duraltia I'm currently in the stages of designing a combiner 'slide-table' system for my machine. And I've got to say, for as 'simple' and affordable as it looks yours is, the results really do look impecable. Did you end up doing any small dot "masking" on the laser pointer you got? or did it come with such a small dot and overall spot quality?

@@Jarshvor Unfortunately I'm not too familiar with how CO² Laser's work... I *_DO_* know they're a consumable that if driven near peak performance will degrade faster and as of recently have been told that they'd also need to be activated like once a week otherwise the Gas inside would go bad too but that's about as far as my knowledge goes. Concerning the Power reading its basically the situation that in order to learn how the Machine works I went and had a look into the "RuiDa" Machine Vendor Settings and found a value defining the _Laser 1 Maximum Power (%)_ set to *75* 🤔 ( i.imgur.com/awKcI35.png ) When doing a series of LightBurn Test Cuts ranging from 55-100% in 5% Increments the mW meter in the Machine continuously raised the displayed Value until it peaked with 21mW while doing the 75% LightBurn Power Cut with none of the other Cuts after that ( 80, 85, 90, 95 & 100% ) going beyond 21mW either 🤨 Both the Machine Vendor Laser 1 Maximum Power (%) being defined with 75 and the mW Meter not going beyond 21mW once it reached a 75% LightBurn Power Value is giving me the assumption the two being related to each other. In essence - Setting the LightBurn Laser Power to anything higher than 75% is useless as anything between 75 and 100% cuts with the same 21mW Power that already peaked at 75% 😑 Discussing some of my issues in the LightBurn Forums I've been told to have a look at the Laser Tube's Label to be certain what the maximum mW Power would be it could be set to but when I removed the protective Metal Shield surrounding the Tube to take some measurements for a Transparent Plexi Glass MOD ( kinda dig the glow of the Tube that can be seen on both exposed Ends ) I found the Tube having no Labels on it except for a Barcode 😕 And as for the Controller goes... In LightBurn it installs as a "RuiDa" but doesn't look like one: i.imgur.com/yNjawLz.jpg

@@Jarshvor The CloudRay Red Dot Module I got would initially produced a really fat Rectangle but eventually I figured out that the front of it could be screwed in/out to focus that Laser into a decently fine point before widening again as such no Masking was necessary but now that you mention it maybe it's something I should still consider for a potential revision in order to get an even finer point 🤔😏

Most of the larger parts ( Turret, Chassis, Main Barrel ) were done on a 350 sized Voron V2.4 FDM 3D Printer with the smaller detail parts ( Tracks, Wheels, Muzzle Break, Tools, Engine Deck, etc... ) were done on a Formlabs Form³ SLA 3D Printer ( standard Formlabs Grey V4 ). The Build Log in the Video Description makes it fairly clear what was done with which 3D Printer... Everything light grey was done in SLA with everything dark grey and white being done in FDM ( ASA being the Material ). ASA - like its ABS Brother - allows for easy Post Processing like Sanding and almost Welding like gluing but can also be moulded with a Soldering Iron which I've used for creating the Flame Cuts on the heavy Turret and Chassis Armor Sections. And some parts ( Swing Arms, Towing Shackles ) were done by casting ZAMAK into a High Temperature Silicone Mould that was done with an SLA Master. Most Dimensions were taken of a smaller 1/16 scale Version with others taken of a 1/16 Tamiya King Tiger ( the entire Engine Deck ) as it would allow the use of Photo Etch Parts made for a KT instead of attempting in making my own.

I have to disappoint your ambition in obtaining a variant of _this_ particular model. Even just the raw Material Cost with my Equipment would already have it cost above 600.- which doesn't even include the time and labor cost. It would also not include the Costs for all the additional Hardware required I'd have to source to deliver a by the customer finish able model. You're most definitely cheaper off getting a _Hooben_ E-100 ( Porsche Turret Variant ) and if need be, modifying that one to your needs.

@@Duraltia Sad, but thanks for the reply anyway. Then I will be delighted to look at the models in the following videos)

No kidding! Excellent question!

Yea... Back then I was going through a bit of a weird phase with that paint scheme 🤔 Looks a bit more realistic nowadays: i.imgur.com/E3Ibcm6.jpg 😉

Glad you like it! 😁 Mhh... I was at some point considering the alternative Schmalturm Turret ( i.imgur.com/YtAwYxU.jpg ) but then _really_ couldn't pass on the Mouse one - Though there's not a lot standing in the way of simply making a second Turret at some point. A Project I'm currently "working" on would be a Versuchsträger VT 1-2 ( imgur.com/a/w6hVSkg ) with the aim of simplifying the build by reusing spare parts ( like Tracks, Swing Arms, etc... ) from existing Tank Kits. I also preemptively got myself a set of 1/16 Maus Tracks ( i.imgur.com/qKn71ac.jpg ) should I ever plan on building one allowing the reuse of the Turret Design and just having to make the Chassis which should be a lot easier than that of the E-100 as most of the running gear is hidden from view and as such can be designed with some artistic freedom.

@@DuraltiaAny plans after the one you’re working on now? An E-100 Krupp/Maus II turm is recommended.

Nope, I don't. Too much work in it to hand out for free / cheap and too many issues for me to be comfortable in charging money for it 😁

The 360° Rotation Mechanism: sgs-electronic.de/index.php/webshop/products/mfm-mt3-sr1 The 90° Parking Mechanism: sgs-electronic.de/index.php/webshop/products/mfm-mt3-sr2

@@Duraltia thank you

i also need it :)