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Thanks for your continued interest in this model. The earlier ship before it's refit had proper masts and sails! I will build as the designer intended. I hope to 3D print the 6" gun barrels this weekend as rolling the paper ones are beyond my ability.

@@plungingfirescalemodeling2441 That sounds great - I am still struggling with my work"space" to get my ProModel ADMIRAL USHAKOW 1895 started. and my own YTChannel.

Hope you get going soon.

Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks

Thanks for your question. Personally I don't think it will be an issue. The foam sheet I used has sat out in the open in my hobby room and hasn't changed at all. The foam used in the hull is only there to give a solid surface to stop the paper hull being pushed in due to my lack of skills. If the foam in the hull suddenly disappeared the paper would still hold its shape, after all more skillful paper modellers than me don't resort to additional fill. Of course balsa or cardboard stripes are viable options but the foam was quicker and easier for me to use.

Thanks for watching and commenting. appreciated.

Thank you, appreciated.

Hi Jim, thanks. Yeah with the mast ones I noticed later but based on the frustration I had I didn't have the heart to rework them. I might go back for final fitout. The supplied lenses must be glass as I couldn't mark them and knife points skated off them. Yeah nearing the finish line but still lots of little hull details to go. Still thinking about rigging and what to use.

👍Nice! Hope you post progress.

Thanks Jeff, appreciated.

Thanks for watching, I appreciate the comment.

Agree the Pre-Dreadnought style is my favourite also. Pity there wasn't more in 1/200 plastic. Thats why I started in card, a far greater selection in this scale.

Thank you. Yeah worked a treat if a bit time consuming and messy.

Thanks. Yeah I don't have the skill of applying the hull sheets without damaging.

Thanks for watching. Glad you are enjoying them. Paper model have lots of interesting subjects not typically found in plastic so choice can be difficult.

I'm impressed with it's performance considering how relatively cheap it is.

Thanks for watching. Sorry but I don't feel comfortable sharing them as they were directly measured up from the Pontos and kit parts. It would be different if I researched the parts and came up with them on my own. Even for someone of my limited Fusion360 abilities they were pretty straightforward to draw up.

Thank you watching and commenting, glad you found it helpful.

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words.

@@plungingfirescalemodeling2441 ❤️

Thank you. Your welcome.

Thanks for following along and your feedback. Yeah it is a problem mentioned before which I'll try and address. In the meantime try clicking on CC for autogenerated subtitles as it does a pretty good job interpretating me 😀

Thanks for watching and the comment. They're just ordinary tweezers with heat shrink tubing pushed on as far as it'll go and then heated up with the gas torch to shrink onto the prongs, then trim to length fraction longer than the points. For normal handling they stay on fine but easily pulled off to replace. Heat shrink assorted pack from Jaycar, none of which the other sizes I have a use for but think you can get each size separately...I believe it's 1.5mm which is the shrunk size.

@@plungingfirescalemodeling2441 thanks mate, I did wonder about using heat shrink but thought it might crack. Will have to raid the tool box now and knowing my luck, everything will be of large scale. Supercheap is close for me might try them if I don’t have any. Thanks again for your help, appreciate it. 👍

you're welcome.

Hi Captain, great job making up those lights. Your Mikasa is really looking nice. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff

Thanks Jeff, appreciated.

Glad it was of help.

Look up Subungual Melanoma. Again, not trying to scare you. Just trying to give you a heads up you know?

Thanks, all good. yeah it comes and goes although hanging around longer this time.

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I'm glad you are enjoying them. Enjoy your modelling which ever one you choose to build. The Kristal Klear is just a personal preference, it just seems to work for me and I get consistent and reliable results. I like it's fluid but thick consistency and stays where put, grabs well and relatively quick drying. I haven't had much luck with the Ultra glue, I found the PE part would slide about and not stick. I might have a 'bad' batch and should maybe try another bottle.

Thanks Jeff, appreciate the comment.

Thank you for the kind words.

Thank you. Yes, I much prefer soldering where possible instead of using CA glue. So much more secure.

Hi, the chisel is a modified No.11 blade. I have a video in the T3 playlist on how to make them.

Thank you. The solder paste is from a local electronics store. Search for solder paste to find a source local to you or vender who provides on-line shopping. Given an option for lead or lead-free go for the leaded variety for better consistent results.

Thank you, appreciated.

Thanks for the nice words.

Thanks for watching, it's a modified No.11

Thanks for the kind words. I have settled on doing them all in the original sail colour as was wasting time procrastinating about them.

Hi, thanks for watching and trying this technique. Sorry I don't have any advice to make the syringes last. I just used it to fill the gaps in the bilge keels I was working on at the time and didn't need to do anymore after so just binned it when done. Perhaps a smear of silicone grease on the rubber part before inserting might work.

Thank you.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure, I assume they are made of some type of treated canvas but only guessing.

@@plungingfirescalemodeling2441 I think so too. 👍🏻

Thanks for your input.

Thanks for the feedback. Not sure myself, possibly bright/light colours might be avoided to reduce visual detection.

Thanks for the feedback, I'm now thinking a light grey colour, hmmm

@@plungingfirescalemodeling2441 whatever colour you decide on, they will still look great. Looking forward to your colour scheme.

@@evanandgemma1 Thanks I appreciate that.

Thanks for commenting. It is certainly easier and neater to work with.

Thank you. Glad it helps.

Thanks, glad it was helpful.

Thank you for the nice comment.

Hi Jeff, wonderful idea, i reckon that would work a lot better than the struggling method I came up with, thanks.

@@plungingfirescalemodeling2441 I'm glad I could help. Keep up the great work. Jeff

Thank you, appreciated.

Thank you very much.

Thank you for the kind words

Thanks for watching and the sub, appreciated!

Thank you, much appreciated.

Thanks for watching and commenting, appreciated.