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hi, terima kasih!,... nice to meet you on youtube!!...😆

hi, it is tight space inside liftoff micro drones, for easier to start flying in this simulator, pick the smallest 65mm whoop, and fly in angle mode first,... the real experts are people like "nick burns", he is flying real drones, not simulators... My yaw control is slow and clumsy, where as nick burns' yaw control is super fast and accurate... 😆

hey, your question is not specific or clear enough, so i'm trying to guess what you are asking,.. :) (important: this location Senja Woods had been added to no-fly-zones recently in May2024, please do NOT fly here, and please check onemap.sg before you fly your drone) why i'm flying XI20 less now => my old XI20 using Runcam ThumbPro 4K requires slower speed for video stabilizing by gyroflow/shotcut. XI20 with Runcam ThumbPro is still a very nice combination and fun. But it looks like i'm flying at faster speed now and needs O3. why i did not mount O3 on XI20 => because previously there were no 2in frame that could fit in an O3. XI20/KT20 only takes 14mm camera previously. I could only find my old ET85 frame good for O3. Pavo Pico, Pavo20, Mobula8 etc all the 2in frames for O3 were not available then. why i keep flyng ET85 wth O3 now => Built the ET85 with O3, result of not much jello, powerful drone, stable 1204 motors, lower center of gravity, and works well for my sceneries filming. so i kept flying it. do i like ET85 frame more or XI20 frame more => i like ET85 frame more as it is much lighter and simpler. I started with ET85/analog VTX. later I switched to XI20 because ET85 frame could not carry/mount a Runcam ThumbPro. After that i switched back to ET85 because XI20 could not take O3. should you go with ET85 or XI20 => ET85 is non-pusher, which is good for my simple relax flying (mainly fun flight and filming sceneries). XI20 is pusher and more for aerobatic type of flying. ET85 has very low center of gravity below prop. XI20 has very high center of gravity above prop. for me i go with ET85 more as i do not have aerobatic flying skill, only simple flying. What i think about that new XI20 with O3 (launched early 2024) => go watch XI20/O3 on nick burns' youtube channel. That drone is 250g and 1205 motors. I would say it will fly like a bullet shooting around (very heavy weight and small high rpm prop). It is not suitable for my scenery filming, and i think it is also not suitable for racing, as the inertia is way too high. But i think it is good for people in free style aerobatic. which would be a good 2in frame for O3 => i do not know, i only have an ET85 with an O3 squeezed into it, and flying it. So far it is quite fun. I never fly any other 2in drones with O3 (mobula8, Pavo Pico, Pavo20, Flylens, darkStar20, XI20, Defender20, Talon20) so i do not know anything about them. :)

@@menghuitay5038 Thank you very much for the detailed response. Pretty sure you got to all the points which I''ve left out in my earlier comment hahaha. I'm still torn between all the drone options that we have now.. But I'm guessing its between the XI20, Flylens 85 and possibly the Pavo 20? Was actually considering the XI25 but its not easy to get it below 250g considering its about 200g +- without the battery. Btw, the Flylens 85 seems like a really good choice. It being lighter and running on just 2S. I've been seeing loads of compliments for it. I think its something you'll be interested to check out if you haven't heard of it already!

@@chesterlim15 ,... hi, are you getting some 2in O3 drones? i really do not have any idea which 2in O3 drone is good. after looking at all the 2in O3 drones from different makers, i still like my ET85 O3 more and will only fly my ET85 O3. my own set of requirements for 2in O3 as (and i diy-ed that ET85): - 4S 450mAh battery, less headache as all my drones using same 4S 450mAh batteries - i need 1204 bigger motors, few times i nearly could not pull up and nearly into water - i need very low center of gravity, because of my lousy skill - 4-5min flight time, Sometimes i forget the way home. but usually i fly for 2.5min only. - relatively light, 2in ET85 at 100g without battery. Safety and less scary to others. XI20-O3 is the drone having bigger motors of 1205 and 4S battery. All the other drones are 1103 or 1102. But XI20 is heavy and center of gravity is above propellers. Mobula8-O3 is lightest, Very low center of gravity, but motor is smaller 1103 and on 2S battery only. you will have your own different set of requirements, i will not know. if you are some lousy drone pilots like me, who cannot perform aerobatic, flying simple filming only, then the closest to ET85 would be mobula8-O3. would be better you keep watching nick burns' youtube videos. he has many O3 review videos. pick one 2in O3 that nick burns could demonstrate his superb flying skill to maximum... :)

hi, i'm not the right person to answer your questions, and i do not hold a drone pilot license. i'm doing mostly recreational/leisure sub250g drone flying. this is as far as i know, (not 100% accurate) 1) drone registration: any drones (with or without camera) less than 250g do not need registration. The is a fine of S$10K for any non-registered drone >250g 2) FPV flying: australia explicitly stating no FPV flying, and malaysia explicitly stating FPV flying allowed. The s'pore authority does not say yes or no for FPV flying (your Pavo Pico type of flying), so for us here we continue FPV flying until the authority explicitly bans it one day. :) 3) Commercial filming: For any commercial filming here, the drone pilot needs to be licensed drone pilot, and needs the operator permit (some filing of biz or personal operating commercial drone activities). Your job of wedding filming falls under this and will need both drone pilot license and operator permit. drone pilot license and operator permit got nothing to do with sub250g, and separate issues. 4) no-fly-zones: check onemap.sg carefully before you fly your drones. And there are frequent no-fly-zones updates, i.e. the authority here put the whole Marina Bay, Marina Barrage, Tanjong Rhu as no-fly-zone in Mar2024, and then they removed it in May2024. The is a fine of S$50K for flying inside no-fly-zones without CAAS permit. 5) Max Altitude: Max altitude here as 60m "above mean sea level". It is above mean sea level and not your launch point. So please don't just simply set your DJI Drone altitude, you have to check your ground altitude from Googles Earth. Some tourist spots like mount faber and henderson wave bridge are already >60m amsl. 6) Private Estates: Some private estates do not allow you to fly drones. You have to search these private estates from flywhere.sg/. These private estates are not listed on onemap.sg 7) Don't film sensitive locations: Someone in S'pore had been charged for filming sensitive locations even though he was flying drone outside no-fly-zones. Go Google "drone 20K brani illegal filming" for detailed information. Do NOT point your drones' camera to any sensitive locations even though you are flying outside those no-fly-zones. 8) Police checking on you: Here drone flying is not as strict checking as other countries like inside China. I had been flying for 8yrs and only once police come to talk to me. That time i was flying at north shore where smugglers using drones to carry drugs across s'pore strait before. And also i think that time police were looking for someone kept flying drone above Woodlands immigration checking point. For your question of if police will come checking on you if you fly drones here => I don't think so as long as you are outside no-fly-zones. =========================== above are some pointers for you to continue searching for more info. For additional information and more accurate information you need to email to CAAS. bye... :)

hi, i'm in singapore and i can buy those fpv parts or racer drones easily from taobao of alibaba. For countries outside asia i think you should be able to buy from aliexpress of alibaba easily. these are e-commerce mail order. other sources could be banggood.com, getfpv.com but they are more expensive. you can also buy from the racer drone makers' website directly,... for e.g. geprc.com, betafpv.com, iflight.com. for tighter budget, go with analog-VTX drones. or else you might want to go with the newer dji avata2. dji avata2 might ended as cheaper than DIY assemble own drones like me. hope it helps... :)

hi, thanks!.... :)

hi, sorry, i do not have a very detailed video on the Pavo30 drone construction. Could you use these videos: => O3 assembled inside my Pavo30 th-cam.com/video/6FYPqKZAUFM/w-d-xo.html => DJI O3 on Betafpv Pavo30 Cinewhoop th-cam.com/video/MoUgZc-p86Q/w-d-xo.html hope it helps! have fun with your O3... :)

hi, betafpv pavo30 frame kit comes with 2pcs of camera brackets. one for 14mm and another for 19mm. The DJI O3 20mm camera is forced/squeezed into the 19mm bracket. The DJI O3 VTX is installed inside the enclosure previously for Vista. note that you need to cut the VTX plastic enclosure a bit to fit in the DJI O3 VTX and create some opening for the MicroSD slot. I do not have any access to the Type-C USB port on DJI O3. this video might gives you a better picture. This video also shows the camera bracket attached to the vibration damping suspension, originally for SMO-4K camera (and camera bracket not installed onto usual Pavo30 position). Drone weight without battery as ~167g th-cam.com/video/c-iGinjD5c8/w-d-xo.html

ok, sure,... but i still do not have those skills to perform aerobatic like powerloops. only slow cinematic free flights. :)

hi, here is one small area outside no-fly-zones. check onemap.sg carefully and do not cross into the nfz accidentally. far end of jetty might be a good location to capture sunrise/sunset. have fun with your drone! 😆

@@menghuitay5038 noted ☺️. Thank you so much for the info.

yes,.... and 80+ new no-fly-zones just added on 07 Mar 2024. is on onemap.sg now,.. whole marina bay, marina barrage, tanjong rhu, s'pore flyer, pandan reservoir-floating platform are no-fly-zones now,.... i started to fly at m'sia side.... 😆

hi, thanks,.. here is a great location for fpv flying when no people/crowd. 😆

hi, ShotCut and Gyroflow are two different software. Gyroflow utilizes flight gyro data for video stabilizing, but ShotCut uses video frame-by-frame stabilizing. Until now i'm still using ShotCut for video stabilizing. I have not been using Gyroflow yet. simplest and minimum steps to use shortcut for video stabilizing: 1) Open your video file in ShotCut 2) drag your video file to timeline/video track 3) click and select your video track on timeline 4) under "filter" tab, select "stabilize" filter 5) click "analyze" button on filter to start analyzing your video file (important, this is a 2-pass process, always need to perform "analyze" first). 6) after completing the "analyze", export your video to a file. watch other ShotCut tutorials on youtube on how to perform the video stabilizing. have fun!....😆

hi, 1) cost of my setup Simple similar setup up at least S$1200. I bought all the parts from Taobao: - DJI Goggles V2, ~S$600 - RadioMaster Pocket ELRS, S$70 - Drone with DJI O3, Self assembled, S$400 - Battery, S$8-10/pc, >10pcs needed. Note: - is not easy to self-assemble a drone, need some technical knowledge, need soldering - is not easy to fly FPV drones. Those non-FPV Mavic drones are much easier to fly. 2) if you are new to FPV flying - is not easy to fly FPV, it took me 6 months to get basic skill right. - suggestion is to get a set of DJI Avata with remote control. Total ~US$1200 on official website. You will need more batteries. - DJI Avata is much easier to start learning flying FPV, as it has some "beginner mode". for all other FPV drones, beginners likely giving up after trying the drone for few hours. 3) If you are already flying FPV drones - There are "Betafpv Pavo20" and "HappyModel Mobula8". Both are 2in, ~105g takeoff weight. Drone only around S$150-200/set. Add another DJI O3 camera at ~S$300. These are assembled/completed FPV racing drones. ======================== Other info: - is not easy to fly FPV. I'm only a slow FPV flyer, i cannot fly racing or aerobatic. - i'm good in drones assembly/building, but still not good in the PID/filter tuning. - i started with cheap analog transmission, added iFlight G3 camera (Insta360). You can get similar recorded video output quality. Analog video transmission is cheaper and simpler setup. Per drone S$150-200, goggles S$70. Total simple complete setup ~S$500, then add in your gopro or other cameras. - I believe most experienced FPV flyers do not like DJI Avata. i do not like DJI avata. - DJI avata complete system price is not really expensive, it is similar to DIY FPV drones with DJI O3. - DJI avata should be same camera as DJI O3. Those sports camera like Gopro, insta360 produce better video than DJI O3, but drones ended heavy weight. have fun! merry x'mas and happy new year 2024!.... 😆

Tks for ur replied. Will consider what you suggested may be will try on DJI FPV drone. You flew very well in the video 👍

@@derrickwth hi, just let you know there is a dji drone with name "DJI FPV". That "DJI FPV" is very powerful and not suitable for beginner. do not get confused with "DJI AVATA". concentrate on "DJI AVATA" only. for other FPV info, i had compiled here: facebook.com/groups/851391965424914/permalink/1150694958827945 have fun!.... 😆

Hi, Thanks!..... 😆

hi, bro, that toa payoh park could be crowded,.. plaza dancing, people exercising, shoppers back from supermarket passing by. so is not suitable for 5in. can try sit inside that tower, make sure nobody climbing up tower, dive a 2in micro whoop (<125g) down that circular stair case, that should be fun. but i won't dare to do that, because i do not want to get scolded by park users there. i do not have that skill either. 😆 i do not know where would be a good place to fly a 5in. my biggest drone is 3in pavo30. may be you can try sunset way that old railway bridge, but watch out sungei ulu pandan below. adding a 2in tiny whoop to your drone fleet could give you more flying places. have fun!....😆

@menghuitay5038 yea man, I wrote the previous comment before I sent for my first flight on my 5in at old Holland Road field, eventhough I started flying on simulator since early April this year, I didn't have the budget to get a drone, when I finally do, I had to register with caas, then find a good location to fly. After my test flight, I doubt the toa payoh town park is suitable for a 5in, super aggressive. I have intentions to get a 2.5inc cinewhoop. Considering the cineape 25 or fox whoop 25. I'm on analog, so might need an action cam for recording video. Digital is too expensive. Quite broke for now. Haha That sounds interesting. I would love to fly from above that tower. Your video makes me eager to get a tiny or cinewhoop bro. Haha. Keep it up.

@@ibraheimalkhatib5738 hi, bro, my suggestion is don't buy anything now, keep flying your 5in until you figure out exactly what you want. only very few safe locations for 5in in s'pore like holland big field, techwhye, marina south and lazarus. A 2in micro whoop will give you much more locations, even like a tiny deserted kids playground is good enough. for vtx, walksnail might be a good solution except you will need a basic goggles at ~S$650 walksnail per drone: for analog S$25 VTX + S$25 cam + S$50 runcam thumb = S$100. Walksnail mini 1s with 1080p recording is ~S$110. Meaning there is not much price differences per drone. range: from my experience, 40-50m for analog, 50-60m for walksnail, and 150-200m for dji vista/o3. i do not have hdzero and i think range is similar to analog. I only bought walksnail after flying dji o3 for sometime, so walksnail range is disappointing to me. Other than that walksnail is very nice. hdzero is for racing (lowest latency), and walksnail more for freeflight. dji O3 has the best video recoding quality but expensive (O3 ~S$280/set) for remote control, much cheaper to go with elrs than tbs. elrs radio about S$75. receiver about S$9-11/pc. facebook.com/groups/851391965424914/permalink/1416165398947565/ suggesting no need to rush into getting another 2.5in or sports camera, keep flying your 5in and figure out what you want, what is more suitable + safe to fly in this crowded s'pore. Also wait for some 1520p recording on next walksnail VTX generation. meanwhile may be buy a copy of S$12 "liftoff-micro" and try micro whoops first, i like to fly inside that warehouse... have fun!.... 😆

hi, my build cost for that drone is ~S$400 i have lots of old parts. I'm having fun using those old parts like LEGO kits and building new drones. You do not need to build from scratch. there is a new betafpv pavo20 assembled drone at ~S$120 from taobao, comes without o3 camera. getting the dji o3 is about ~S$260 from taobao. assembly the o3 camera to the drone is only few screws and plug in the cable. you will need other fpv gear if you do not already have those: dji goggles ~S$600, remote control ~S$70, and batteries S$6-S$10 each (about 3-5min flight time per battery) have fun! 😆

I think I am gona get the zorro elrs first to try on simulation before sinking in haha. Thanks

@@sh3nz 👍..... ( i'm still having my fpv training everyday on LiftOff )

This one is DJI O3 camera for FPV drones, CCD has good color, dynamic range and camera has some video stabilizing. hence video output is nice. the camera is like having 80% capabilities of those Gopro9 or Insta360 X3 sports camera... Only problem i have now is DJI does not provide video post processing software...

hi, yes, motors and propellers affecting the vibration the most on Pavo30. i'm using Gemfan 3052 propellers and TMotor P1604 motors. TMotor P1604 is 12N14P configuration. Meaning smaller stepping angle, smaller steps and less vibration I used Gemfan 3052 for main reason of reducing the "propwash" (drone instability or wobbles during quick turn/yaw/dive) P1604 + GF3052 reduce the propwash a lot, and this pair giving me minimum jello on O3 videos. Pavo30 needs bigger size motors of at least 1604/1505 to reduce "propwash". For reducing jello on O3, try different propellers like GF3052 or other propeller pitch/angle. Normally there is some mechanical "resonance" vibration frequency and changing propellers' rpm might reduce it, and hence removing the O3 jello. Hope it helps... :)

@@menghuitay5038 muchas gracias por responder lo tendré en cuenta un saludo

hi, many thanks!... right now this dji o3 produces better video than my gocam g3 (insta360) and runcam thumbpro. i like the rocksteady as it gives some video stabilizing but not too much smoothing until there is no fpv feeling.... 😆

hi, some notes: 1) video is from the O3 airunit, not from goggles. video recorded as in 2.7K 4:3 50fps, youtube upscaled it to 4K automatically during upload 2) youtube does it's own video re-encoding and has it's own bitrate. most fast moving 4K videos are not that clear on youtube. 3) i used shotcut for trimming, and vsdc for subtitle/caption entering, these software processing might degrade the video quality a bit and the output bitrate was 60mbps 4) i still have some vibration on the pavo30, in the yaw direction, making the motion inside the video not very smooth 5) i cannot remove the vibration completely for reliable gyro video stabilizing in O3 camera. i'm still looking at shutting off the rocksteady in O3 and using other stabilizing tools instead. those newer frame kits specially designed for O3 has better camera "soft" mounting. for any blur video section you found inside the video, i think likely due to youtube re-encoding. try upload a fast moving 4K video from gopro or any good camera onto youtube, you should see similar problems.

@MengHui Tay thanks for explaining. I also use a Pavo30 but with a Gopro Session and I also struggle with the vibrations. Setting the ESC PWM frequency to 48kHz helps a lot for my build. Would you be so kind as to upload some 4k footage to an upload service? (Google Drive?) I really can't find any real RAW material anywhere to make a realistic impression of it 😔

@@rs3hc Hi, original raw video from O3 here. this is the same video as in the youtube. check how is the video quality before you decide to get an O3... :) gofile.io/d/CjkPPa ( that storage link will only last for 1-2wks, after that it will auto-delete itself. ) "soft" camera mounting is important for O3. And O3 on a bigger, heavier and more stable 5in racer might produce better video output than pavo30. so far i had mounted 3 sets of O3 on Pavo30, Diatone C25MK2, and LDARC ET85. I cannot get rid of those motor vibration problems. And with rocksteady turned on, you can easily see branches/leaves are shaking when there is bright sky as background/behind. My guess is even with the newly designed O3 frame kits with camera soft-mounting, there will still be some vibrations. I think you cannot use O3 to replace gopro or insta360. View/Think of O3 as something better than Vista + ThumbPro, but at about same price and same weight. I like O3 for it's light weight. My 2in O3 on ET85 is 104g, with 3S450mAh the take off weight is 143g. :)

@@menghuitay5038 Thanks! You are a hero for sharing. :) It definitely looks 100 times better than on YT.... as you can see again what damage their conversion can do. But the footage looks very very good, even if it is only 4:3. Do you still have something in 16:9 ? :P I just played it in VLC player at 0.25x speed as you flew through the leaves, you can clearly see the jello but it's nowhere near as bad as it was for me back in the day with Hero Session. I'm going to run it through Davinci Resolve.

@@rs3hc Hi, sorry, I do not have any O3 video in 4K 16:9. All videos recorded in 2.7K 4:3. My computer, i3-10105 + RX6600XT + NVMe, is already having some problem with that 2.7K video i sent you, skip-frames under VLC playback. 5KPlayer is smoother. my guess of if want to have good video from O3, may be.... 1) Drone have to be heavier close to 1kg, and don't use cinewhoop. Normal carbon fiber drone can have "softer" PID tuning and less vibration/bumpy during quicker turns. On my Pavo30, videos are broken every time when motors accelerating during turning or braking. 2) O3 needs "soft" mounting. Mavic have some vibration damping on the 4 arms and the camera gimbal. On Pavo30 might need to mount O3 camera at the location for the gopro camera. My O3 camera squeezed into the fpv camera bracket is subjecting to all vibrations. 3) Turn rocksteady off and use other video stabilizing tools. This is not saying rocksteady is lousy. I do not know what is happening, may be is like: let's say the motors are having some 86Hz vibration and O3 samples the gyro data at 8KHz interval, guess there could be a 6Hz oscillation generated due to data sampling problem and O3 cannot filter the 6Hz. Due to the O3 maker does not know if you are a cinematic flyer or a drone racer, so could only filter the 86Hz. I'm waiting for someone on internet to find out what is happening, and how to fix it. i have another 2 newer O3 builds on Diatone C25MK2 and LDARC ET85, both producing worse video than my Pavo30 now. i'm waiting for other youtube fpv flyers to demonstrate how to fix O3 problems.... have fun in fixing the mechanical vibration problems after you bought your O3. :)

you are welcomed!... :)

hi, note: i cannot help you much on this because i still do not know how to use gyroflow software. i could not get gyroflow working properly on my thumbpro. my video stabilizing for thumpro is using ShotCut. O3 is sensitive to motors' vibration. Most of the newer frame kits for O3 have the camera anti-vibration suspension designed in. some changes you might want to try: - try change your prop to less blades and lower pitch. this increases the rpm of motor and might get that vibration disappeared. sometimes vibration could be due to some mechanical resonance of the motor+frame. - try change your prop to more blades and higher pitch. sometime the vibration could be due to the magnetic stepping of brushless motors. heavier loading of the motors might reduce that vibration - try change your prop to both front props from one maker, and both rear props from another maker. The front and rear props will spin at slightly different rpm and causing disturbances to any vibration resonance. Is weird doing but for quick testing only. - try change your motors to those with weaker magnets. these motors are usually smoother but lower efficiency. - try change motors to 12N14P type, from 9N12P. Is smaller stepping angle and smoother, motor vibration frequency also will be higher. - try turn on and turn off RockSteady on O3. if you have some oscillation of few hz and small amplitude on video when RockSteady turned ON, but not much oscillation on video when RockSteady is turn OFF, likely you have some motor vibration that causes the O3's gyro data errors during sampling. - try move your O3 camera to the position where you mount your 2nd camera/SMO 4K, on your pavo30. That's with the vibration damping suspensions. you might need to trial-and-error to get your problem fixed first. after you have something quite working, then start looking for a good permanent solution. Or adjust gyroflow's filter if there is such settings. i do not have the full knowledge to help you here, and hope you can get your problem fixed. :)

@@menghuitay5038 thanks for answer. I will make some attempts to fix the problem and write the solution)

So finally my AIO and Unit broke down simultaneously...It turns out that unit has no surge protection...May be it was short circuit...I don't know...Now my unit is able to connect to computer and I can download new firmware but it can't work with flight controller...Be careful!

@@i_just_fly hi, i'm using JHEMCU GHF411AIO on that Pavo30 with O3. My O3 is powered from the 10V regulated output of FC and no surge. Motors are 1604, not big motors. i have another 2 sets of O3 on 2in ET85 and 2.5in C25MK2 quad. Both powered directly from battery and so far so good. But the motors are small 1204 motors and i'm a slow flyer. All my batteries are Max 4S. You might want to use a flight controller with 10V regulated output dedicated for DJI AirUnits. Or, put a LC filter (10uH, 100uF) on the +ve power wire of AirUnit. Previously I did remove all the video noise on analog VTX after applying the LC filter on +ve power wire. My guess of it is like this: when there is a surge, the 6S flyback voltage will be 6S above the supply, meaning 44V at the supply line. May be the li-ion battery with wiring, connector and internal resistance could only clamp down that surge voltage to 6V above the 6S battery, hence 22V+6V =28V. the extra 6V will be 3V on both the +ve and -ve supply wires of your O3 airunit, since inside the airunit likely a capacitor between power wires. So, there could be a -3V stress on the TX and RX signals of your O3 airunit and killed the O3 UART port (your O3 ground wiring is shifted to +3V). Put a LC filter on the +ve wire will have the series inductor blocking all the +6V surge (meaning the voltage drop on that inductor will be +6V at that short mS instance) I prefer adding a LC filter on VTX, than adding any surge suppressor/varistor/capacitor in parallel to the battery. i had another vista powered from battery directly, 4-wire connection with FC. One day the ground wire was broken, and i think the powering current of whole vista returned through the TX pin of flight controller (since ground wire broken). After i soldered back the ground wire, the vista is functioning and could send video to my goggles. But no OSD due to dead FC UART (likely TX PCB trace broken as i did smell PCB burnt). I then swapped my ELRS receiver UART with my vista UART. ELRS in 3-wire only. Now both vista and receiver working fine, except i cannot do firmware update of ELRS with betaflight pass through. for your case, may the UART on your O3 damaged. try power up your O3 with 8-12V directly and check if it could send video to your goggles. also check if the O3 power wiring/connector are burnt.

hi, sorry, i do not have a video showing "how to upgrade vista to o3 on pavo30" or "how to install o3", and no plan to create one. the upgrading is simple but too much job in producing that video. following quick video only shows how my o3 is assembled inside the pavo30. hope it helps... :) th-cam.com/video/6FYPqKZAUFM/w-d-xo.html on pavo30, o3 is a direct replacement of vista, except you might have some mechanical constraints. if you want to know how to connect o3 to flight controller, simply search any youtube tutorials on how to install vista. Their (either o3 or vista) wiring/connection are exactly the same.

@@menghuitay5038 thank you so much for the video.. I really appreciate it.

Hi, So far my pavo30/O3 fpv video feed is clear, smooth and stable. My pavo30 is DIY built, bought as frame kit only. The TMotor P1604 used is not so strong magnet, meaning less vibration produced. The motors and propellers affect the video feed a lot. My configuration while filming that video as: - take off weight 220g, with 4S 450mAh battery - T-Motor P1604 3800KV - Gemfan 3052 (new version supporting 1.5mm shaft, 2mm screws, or T-Mount) You need to check if it is vibration or oscillation: - vibration gives you *jello* fpv video feed (jelly video), changing of motors or propellers should fix that - oscillation gives you *shaky* fpv video feed (shaky video), changing of PID or propellers should fix that Suggesting you might want to try (some quick testing): - change your propellers to lesser blades - change your propellers to lower pitch - change your propellers to smaller 2.5in, for testing only. - normally these changes to higher RPM will get jello removed, or at least reduced. after you have your jello/vibration/oscillation removed, you then try to figure out how to change the propellers or motors, or tune your PID. you need to get some stable video feed first, before too much guessing/planning. other notes: - any motor smaller than P1604 likely gives you whoop wobbles (unstable during dive/yaw, or propwash) on pavo30 - motor configuration prefer to have 12N14P (smaller step angle) than 9N12P - motors prefer to have less powerful magnet => have fun flying your pavo30/O3... :)

@@menghuitay5038 thanks for the reply. I have some things to play around with. I will add that before I switched out the caddx vista, there were no vibrations/jello unless diving as you mentioned. Now it seems to be some steady vibrations throughout the whole flight. For now my only option will be to play around with the PIDs, maybe try some new propellers or motors in the future.

@@joelhaileighwoudstra1273 hi, from the description of your new reply, it seems like your problem is oscillation and not vibration. vibration is around few hundred hertz. It is mainly caused by motor magnetic steps, or worn/non-balanced propellers. Problems caused by vibration are jello/jelly videos, and noisy gyro readings. You do not see the shaky video here, but you see jelly like videos here. I think drone people commonly call it "vibration". oscillation is around few hertz. It is mainly caused by under-powered motors or PID not tuned properly. Problems caused by oscillations are unstable flight during dive or quick turning. Strong wind could flip the drone also. I think drone people commonly call it "oscillation". yes, oscillation/shaky is painful on pavo30 (actually happens on all whoops) and i had bad experience on that. try these things that might help: - if problem only occurring recently, change to new propellers. It might be simply your propellers are worn down. or you have a half-faulty/half-jammed motor. - or else, change your prop to more power gemfan 3052 (need new version supporting 1.5mm shaft hole). avoid using gemfan 5-blade D75 - tune your PID to higher power. Pavo30's oscillation is likely caused by too high integral feedback, so try reducing the integral (causing the low frequency oscillation) and increase the derivative. - for betaflight ver 4.3.x, try increase "D Gains" slider - for betaflight ver 4.2.x and below, try increase "P & D Gains" slider - if your motor is factory stock betafpv 1506, that should be big enough. My motor is TMotor 1604. Motor sizing of whoops have to be much bigger than toothpick quad. 1404 size is not big enough for Pavo30. - Note: tuning PID to too high power might burn your motor. I did burn 2pcs of RcInPower 1404 on Pavo30 before. sorry, i'm not an expert in the PID tuning, you need to trial-and-error or try-your-luck... :) have fun in fixing the oscillation/shakiness on your pavo30. my guess is likely some props problems... :)

Hey man! Im thinking about convert my pavo30 to 03. Can you tell me the step to do it?

​@@mostalivefpv hi, DJI O3 is some direct replacement of vista. It is simple to upgrade if you have installed a vista before. i switched to digital about half a year ago. Started as Jumper T-Lite elrs with Vista. 1. preparing O3 - Try to setup and configure your new DJI O3 outside the pavo30 first. You might accidentally burn your O3 while trying to configure it inside your Pavo30, or your O3's USB port might not be accessible later. Getting everything working outside your Pavo30 also giving you more confidence before the assembling into full drone. - make sure your goggles is DJI Goggles V2 or DJI Goggles 2. DJI Goggles V1 will not work with O3. - i think that old black color DJI remote control will not work with O3. You need newer DJI remote control 2 - First, connect the DJI O3 to the PC through the USB Type-C port. O3 can be powered from USB cable. Activate and update your O3 firmware here. You need to update the firmware on your DJI goggles also. - Then, solder a 9-12V power supply to the DJI O3. Power up your O3. - Now try to pair your DJI goggles with O3. You should get the FPV video feed on your goggles. Use a tiny USB fan to cool the DJI O3 while doing that testing/setup. Make sure your goggles reboot-ed with O3 software. - Add a file with filename "ham_cfg_support" onto the MicroSD card of the DJI Goggles (put file on Goggles and NOT on O3 Air Unit, Vista is putting naco.txt on Air Unit). Transmission power will be higher than CE/25mW after that. - If you have a spare flight controller, you might want to configure and test your OSD now. 2. mounting - Camera: Pavo30 is not designed for O3. you need to force the 20mm O3 camera into the 19mm Pavo30 camera bracket. I only tightened the 2 lower M2 screws on the O3 camera. - air unit: there are few ways of orientation/direction and flipping the O3 air unit inside the vista slot of Pavo30. pick some way you like to install it. or else, follow my orientation as shown inside the third photo of the video. - antenna: The O3 antenna has a bigger wire/rod than vista. Find your way of tightening the antenna or cut the plastic on Pavo30 - cutting the plastic: you might need to cut the plastic at the bottom of pavo30 to squeeze in the O3 air unit. I have limited space below the flight controller so i did some cutting at the bottom. I also enlarged the hole to have access to the O3's MicroSD card. My O3's USB port is still hidden inside (meaning any O3 firmware upgrade I will have to open out the drone). - Screws: You need 4pcs of M1.6x8/M1.6x7 screws. Those screws are not included inside the Pavo30 frame kit. I used the same M1.6x8 screw for both Vista and O3 here. Check the 3rd photo inside video for the 4 screws. 3. remote control - i think that old black color DJI remote control will not work with O3. I'm using Jumper T-Lite elrs 100mW. However suggesting you getting the new DJI Remote Control 2 if need one, as giving longer range. - If you are adding a new RC receiver, go search on youtube how to add a receiver to flight controller. for me i simply fasten the receiver on top of Pavo30, beside the battery (as in first 2 photos of video). 4. if upgrading from vista - O3 is simple direct replacement of Vista. Take some photos on the wiring connection first before you remove vista. - if you are using DJI remote control on Vista previously, you have the 6-wire connections between vista and flight controller. One pair of power Suply (7-24V), one pair of Uart connection (Rx, Tx), and one pair of receiver signal (sbus, gnd). Those signals are exactly the same on vista or O3, so swap the wires/connections from vista to O3. Note that dji remote control 2 needed after the O3 upgrade. - if you are using other remote control on Vista previously, you have the 4-wire connections between vista and flight controller. One pair of power Suply (7-24V), one pair of Uart connection (Rx, Tx), no sbus receiver connection. Those 4 signals are exactly the same on vista or O3, so swap the wires/connections from vista to O3. - On betaflight configurator, perform "set osd_displayport_device=MSP" (i guess that's the canvas OSD mode, meaning instead of sending all the OSD onto MAX7456, flight controller now keeps streaming OSD text data to MSP port. Previously, vista was like the controlling master pulling out the OSD data through MSP port) - Do not change any receiver setting/configuration on betaflight. - Note that for the uart wiring, it has to be "twisted". (meaning FC-TX connects to O3-RX, and FC-RX connects to O3-TX). 5. if upgrading from analog VTX - Normally analog VTX has 4 wires from flight controller: Power, GND, Uart-TX, Video Out. Make sure the Power is 7-26V and not 5V power. Some VTX are 5V powered - Remove the VTX module and analog camera. Take some photos on the wiring connection first before you remove them. - Use the old Power, GND and Uart-TX signals. Remove the Video Out wiring. Find the Uart-RX signal of the same uart port from flight controller. Connect these 4 signals Power, GND, Uart-TX, Uart-RX to O3 air unit. - Note that for the uart connection, it has to be "twisted". (meaning FC-TX connects to O3-RX, and FC-RX connects to O3-TX). - On betaflight configuration, set your that uart port as 2nd MSP port. then perform "set osd_displayport_device=MSP". No need to change any receiver setting/configuration on betaflight. 6. OSD - On betaflight configurator, just set that FC-O3 uart port as 2nd MSP port. then perform "set osd_displayport_device=MSP". - O3's OSD is different from Vista. O3's OSD is exactly the same as analog VTX. You get back your blinking warning of low battery, or low RSSI on center of screen. And your virtual horizon bar is back on screen. 7. Others - Use your handphone to take photo of the original wiring/mounting before removing vista from your Pavo30. - Fisheye or lens correction of O3 video output could be performed on most video editing software. - If you are building your Pavo30 from scratch, try size the motor to bigger of at least 1604/1506. Motors with not too strong magnet preferred for less vibrations. The motors for 3in whoops have to be much bigger than 3in toothpick quads. I made some painful mistake of starting with 1404. - O3 is sensitive to motor vibrations. You could get jello (rolling shutter effect) or shaky recorded video due to motor/prop vibrations. Some information i gave you here might not be 100% accurate. Anyway most important is to get it working... :) have fun in upgrading your pavo30 to O3. and i might have missed some details/steps in the description... :) ( Disclaimer: hope it helps!... and don't try to kill me if you got your O3 air unit burnt... )

hi, for 4S 450mAh i'm getting about 3min flight time. Had not tried 4S 650mAh but expecting it to be 4.5min. Some slower flying speed as in the video. I'm a slow flyer. my configuration as TMotor P1604 3800KV, Gemfan 3052. There is a new RcInPower 1804 motor which might be more powerful, efficient and still sub-250g. But i do not know how bad is the vibration.

hi, thanks! Merry X'mas and Happy New Year 2023!... :)

hi, The OddityRC XI20 supports only 14mm camera. You will have to mount the 20mm O3 camera on top of the carbon fiber frame like installing a 2nd camera. Same problem on the HGLRC KT20. I do not have much knowledge of DJI O3, until i have bought a set. I think the following whoop frames could install DJI O3 - Most 2.5 to 3.5in whoops from OddityRC, BetaFpv, AxisFlying, Diatone C25MK2, FUS-X111, iFlight, GepRC - AxisFlying Z20, 2in whoop - note: you might need to modify vista mounting a bit, and need 1.6mm screws. I'm a sub-250g whoop guy. I intend to get 2 sets of DJI O3. Likely i will install onto these 2 frames i already have: ( and hope DJI O3 could fit in properly, I'm using ELRS radio ) LDARC ET85D, 2in whoop - This frame designed for old DJI Air Unit. Frame no more in production. Bought but did not use it - I will have to cable tie the O3's air unit into the slot originally for old Air Unit. - This frame has lower center of gravity and less whoop wobble problems. - Estimated take off weight at 160g with 3S450mAh battery, about 4-5min flight time (cruising speed as in video) BetaFpv Pavo30, 3in whoop - This is the lightest 3in frame i could find. Need to squeeze the 20mm O3 camera into the 19mm slot. - O3 Air Unit should fit nicely into the Vista slot. But I will have to create holes for MicroSD and USB port. I think i will use only USB port for video files retrieving. - Estimated take off weight at 240g with 4S650mAh battery, about 4-5min flight time =============== Motors used with DJI O3 quad - watch out for the motors used. motor with less powerful magnet might be preferred, or else O3 could give you jello videos. - I'm using eachine NC1204 motors for 2in whoops. So far these motors have high efficiency and not much vibrations. SpcMaker G1204 and HGLRC 1303.5 are smoother than NC1204 but their flight time are slightly shorter. - For 3in pavo30 i'm using TMotor P1604. So far these motors smoother than RcInPower 1404 and more powerful. =============== have fun with your DJI O3!.. please do let me know your configuration if you completed a good working set.... :)

Amazing reply! Thanks so.much for sharing your experience. I'm planning a xi20 with vista and hglrc 1303.5. I could also use some GR1204. All that carrying the thumb pro. What would recommend?

hi, thanks!.... 😆

hi, i could not find any restriction on both onemap.sg and flywhere.sg, at marina bay. i had seen many marina bay drone videos on youtube so there should not be any problem. i never fly at marina bay, due to this location is usually crowded, and lots of signal interference. try fly drone above water to avoid the crowd. have fun flying your mini3 ! :)

hi, thanks! east coast park => go to onemap.gov.sg, select DroneQuery, turn on NPark Nature Reserves. Right now (Nov 2022) East Coast Park Area E is the only small area allowed for drone flying, and not marked by NParks as nature reserves. The other sections of east coast park are mainly no-fly-zones due to within 5km from Changi/Paya-Lebar Airports. outside flyer => The whole river bank from flyer to somewhere lavender mrt stn is no longer under NParks, is under garden-by-the-bay-central now. All parks managed by garden-by-the-bay are no-fly. So it mean there is nowhere you could launch a drone and fly around flyer. (Go flywhere.sg and check the private estates/properties marking) we have to fly safely and avoid being fined... :)

@@menghuitay5038 That's really good info, thanks!

hi, thanks, and better don't fly at anywhere north shore, police/coast guards there may be thinking you are smuggling something from johor side... :)

hi, thanks!... :)

hi, video was taken years back with 2 drones, a DJI Spark of around S$800, and a DJI Mavic2Zoom of around S$2300. Both bought as new set. Camera came as built-in the drones. Drones price were more expensive then. if you are drone-beginner and staying in s'pore, you can get some used set DJI Mini2 fly-more at around S$500-600 from carousell.sg now. Used set DJI Mini1 fly-more should be around S$300-400 but the remote control range/distance is terrible. (both DJI Mini1 and Mini2 come with camera built-in) i'm actually listing my Mavic2Zoom at S$1100 on carousell.sg now. But for beginners, i'm suggesting just get a set of used DJI Mini1 or Mini2 would do. have fun with your drone flying!.. :)

hi, sorry, i do not think i'm able to help you much. my KT20 was bought as frame kit only, the receiver is SPI FrSky receiver build-in onto the HappyModel CrazyF411AIO flight controller. My radio is Jumper T-lite. I never use any crossfire receiver/radio before. anyway, some suggestion: 1) make sure your crossfire receiver and your radio are same updated firmware version. 2) For your receiver soldering, make sure the serial cabling are twisted.... meaning TXD of receiver goes to RXD of Flight Controller and RXD of receiver goes to TXD of Flight Controller 3) If you soldered the receiver yourself, make sure you used a UART RXD pin on the flight controller, and not an SBUS pin (SBUS pin for FrSky has inverted signal logic) 4) Then, make sure you have configured your KT20's flight controller properly on betafligt. Meaning you have assigned the correct UART port for receiver (under port setup), and correct configuration for receiver type (Serial based receiver, CRSF interface). 5) Verify your X9D with external RF module is working properly first. Meaning buy another crossfire receiver (may be another brand) and check your radio working properly, with a separate flight controller. Or simply power up the receiver with 5V and use binding LED to check if can bind with radio. 6) If you could get your radio working with another receiver outside the KT20, then just swap that working receiver onto your KT20. Leave the non-working receiver to be debug/fixed later. hope it helps... :)

@@menghuitay5038 Thank you very much for your tips, Good news, i already binded my KT20 bind and fly version to my crossfire tx module, thru TBS agent M Tx binding process, i also checked all in betaflight and its all working, for the remote control settings, i used a duplicate model of my Pavo30 and later changed the name to KT20, all i need now is to copy the stock pid settings from the original stock of KT20 as my KT20 is the stock BNF version..

@@Quad8ightMix hi, that's good news! for my drones with analog vtx, i'm using FrSky. And for my drones with dji digital vtx, i'm using elrs. i'm switching over to elrs. for elrs,.. - i do not have problem with binding. i'm using the "binding phrase", that's some user password phrase stored inside both the receivers and transmitters. they will bind automatically once the "binding phrase" matches, and it is reliable so far. - it allows me to have multiple transmitters paired to all my few drones (as long as you assigned all of them same binding phrase). - drawback of needing to flash firmware of every new receiver you bought, to add in that "binding phrase" have fun flying your new KT20 drone.... :)

hi, Thanks!,.... :)

hi, is in singapore, west coast park. first shot at lookout deck, 2nd shot at big pond/psa side. sorry, i have problem inserting captions/sub-titles on 1520p60 video now. 720p video with captions/sub-titles is here... facebook.com/100016024921563/videos/471569637672724/

@@menghuitay5038 Thank you for your information

hi! thanks!! :)

hi, thanks!, 1) ShotCut ShotCut, an open source software, does video stabilizing and video editing. There are lots of tutorial about ShotCut on youtube. At the moment, i cannot use ShotCut to stabilize video from a fast moving drone, only for slow cinematic motions. For faster drone video, i think insta360 or GoPro needed. I had not tried GyroFlow on Thumb-Pro 2) Raw Video i have not been playing much with the Thumb-Pro camera yet, for raw video, my feeling as: - quite limited camera setting, so you will need more video contrast, brightness adjustment yourself. - If your drone is bigger, like 4-6in, then i think you do not need video stabilizing - my that OddityRC 2in quad is a new build, but it flies smoothly. I think most important thing is you must have a good drone to go with Thumb-Pro. - since i was using ShotCut for stabilizing, i added in some contrast adjustment, fisheye correction at the same time - If you want simpler and easy camera, get an iFlight Gocam G3. Everytime I output the video from Insta360 studio, everything well done and no adjustment needed. But Gocam G3 is heavier at 40g. unlisted raw video for Thumb-Pro is uploaded to here: th-cam.com/video/ZL0rJ_6p3GI/w-d-xo.html (note that i did not have proper anti-vibration mounting for the Thumb-Pro camera, and it will not be the exact video copy here as youtube does their own re-encoding and compression again) have fun! :)

hi, you can use the video for free, but with following restrictions: 1) video clips have to be scenery only, no human inside the video 2) video clips for your own website design only, not as part of your commercial products or commercial services 3) video clips has to be unaltered, it has to be in original form, but you can zoom in to remove the captions/sub-title 4) you cannot claim ownership of the video clips later. 5) all video clips should not be used in any phishing website, or for any illegal activities 6) i will not put in any extra effort to search and find you the original raw video. you have to download from my youtube channel ( note: I would want to let you use the video free of charge, but i do not want myself to get into any trouble or problems ) that's the best i could offer you... :)

Merlion Jetty at Marina Bay is outside no-fly-zones on onemap.sg. Had seen tourists flying there on youtube. But watch out most of the time Marina Bay area is too crowded and too much RF interference. I never flew there before...

hi, You can send message to my email: jxd512dw@gmail.com

hi, - onemap.sg is the official government website, as long as it is not inside the no-fly-zones of onemap.sg, it should be ok. - i do not know what is that warning on dji apps you mentioned. go to onemap.sg handphone apps version, turn on "10km aerodromes". that could be what dji apps is trying to warn you. it is somewhere inside the flight path during aircraft takeoff/landing. (previously max 120m drone height but got no meaning, because whole s'pore is always 60m height max) - you can always double check with plex.garuda.io/map, flywhere.sg/ if you are not sure of some locations. but onemap.sg is the official government map. - is jun/jul now, there are temporary lockdown of airspace by caas for ndp rehearsal purpose. better check caas website for ndp rehearsal schedule before you fly your drones. fine can be up to s$50k or 2yr jail. www.caas.gov.sg/who-we-are/newsroom/Detail/establishment-of-temporary-restricted-areas-for-ndp-related-aerial-activities/ have fun flying your mini2,... fly safely, fly carefully and don't get a fine by caas.... 😄

hi, the few locations: sentosa, marina bay sands, national stadium, garden by the bay are "private estate/property" not managed by public government departments. you should not get a S$50K fine from caas if it is outside no-fly-zones. But the estate management there could still stop you for flying or chasing you away.... i do not fly at these locations.... 😆 flywhere.sg shows the private estates on their map.

hi, betafpv whoops: i do not have luck with betafpv whoops. all the beta85x, beta95x, pavo30 i built had propwash and wobbles. reducing i-gain and increasing pd-gain on my pavo30 helped, but motors are hot. i'm still trying hard to get my pavo30 right. kt20 frame is not a whoop. propellers are further apart and not air-ducted. i do not remember i have much propwash/wobbles with kt20, using default PID. runcam split4 latency: i cannot answer you as i'm a slow flyer. my flying is even ok with hawkeye firefly 4K that most people complaining about the latency on youtube. so far i have not read anyone complaining about runcam split4 latency on youtube. moving beta85 pro2 to kt20: i think it should work if you move beta85 pro2 electronic to kt20 frame. beta85 pro2 has 2 versions, make sure it is the version that runs on 2s batteries. (1s battery version with that 1103-11000KV motors will not have power). Use GF1940 props if your motors' height is too low. if i were you, i will keep the beta85 pro2 for indoor flights. it is difficult to build a 45g drone. that kt20 frame itself already weighs 25g. i will build a kt20 from scratch (RTF version does not have the EX1204 6500KV motor that i prefer) 😄

@@menghuitay5038 thanks. I might keep the Beta85 Pro2 as it is as you said. I just want an hd video recorded when flying. Maybe a runcam thumb will do for now.

hi, i think it would be difficult to mount a runcam thumb onto the beta85 pro2. may be you can try... - purchase a beta85x hd canopy (go google "beta85x hd") - check if that taller canopy could fit onto your beta85 pro2, and you could stack another PCB on top of the beta85 pro2 flight controller. - then go buy a runcam split4 or caddx loris, both are 25mmx25mm mounting - change your beta85 pro2 camera to runcam split4 or caddx loris. you only need to change the camera (3 wires connection). no other changes, except you have to get the correct mounting screws and spacers. - note that both runcam split4 and caddx loris need 2S battery supply. I do not know if the 5V from beta85 pro2 FC has enough current to power these cameras. - add a small LC filter (10uH, 10uF) to Runcam Split4 supply if the FPV feed video is too noisy. I had not used a caddx loris before. have fun with your camera upgrading... 😆

@@menghuitay5038 thanks. I went to buy a protek25 w runcam 4k. I'll just leave my 85pro2 for freestyle flying on the soccer field.

@@VirgilD hi, is good to keep a light and tiny whoop for indoor. my friend passed me a 20g Moblite7, it flies for 5-7min indoor... :) you bought a "protek25 pusher hd"? i have not bought any drones from iflight, only bought 3 sets Gocam G3 (Insta360 OneR) and 1 set Gocam GR (Runcam Orange). But i think this drone is nice. That Runcam 4K should be similar to Gocam GR meaning that Runcam 4K will be better than my Runcam Split4 - has better sony sensor and lens - runcam split4 has problems of too wide FOV (140°) and no setting for narrower FOV - it has gyro data for stabilizing (i still do not know how to use gyroflow and now using ShotCut for stabilizing) have fun flying your new protek25!... 😆

hi, thanks for the info!.... but i think i still will not fly over that building, as sometimes is quite crowded up there... 😆

hi, woodlands jetty was outside no-fly-zones more than 2 years ago, and is still outside no-fly-zones now... but, haha!, better don't fly there now. the police and coast guards there are overly alert for any drugs smuggling by drones. so they might just come chit-chat with you and spoil your day for drones flying. 😆

Hi, 1) Drones Used, The drones used in the video were Mavic2Zoom and Spark. 2) Locations Those locations in the video were outside no-fly-zones years back. There could be some shifting of no-fly-zones boundaries and changes of public to private estates after the years. so, please always check the following maps before you fly: flywhere.sg plex.garuda.io/map www.onemap.sg/main/v2/dronequery important notes: - onemap is the official government website, but flywhere and garuda maps giving you more information on private estates, and NPB parks that drones not allowed. - Some of the locations on onemap, flywhere or garuda websites might show you the location as outside any no-flying-zones. However, places like Mount faber, Telok Blangah Hill are more than 60m above mean sea level so you cannot fly there. For places with higher altitude (e.g, more than 17-storey high), do not fly there even it is outside no-fly-zones. - Do not fly anywhere at the north shore. Woodlands Jetty (as in video) is outside no-fly-zones but the police and coast guards there are overly alert for any drug smuggling by drones. 3) Sticker - You should be able to purchase the drone sticker from SingPost (our post office) at airport. - When you purchase the sticker, you will need to fill in a form (ID, Drone type etc). But that is still not finished - You need to paste sticker onto your drone, take a photo of drone with the sticker, and online register onto CAAS website. CAAS registration website will ask for your ID, drone photo, drone serial number. - You will need a SingPass account to have access to CAAS website. When you arrived at airport, ask the airport helpdesk where you can get a SingPass fast. 4) CAAS www.caas.gov.sg/ unmanned-aircraft regulations www.caas.gov.sg/public-passengers/unmanned-aircraft FAQ for unmanned-aircraft here www.caas.gov.sg/who-we-are/contact-us/faq 5) Others For tourists coming to s'pore and flying your drones, this website provides good information on what you need to do: drone-laws.com/drone-laws-in-singapore/ =================================== Disclaimer: The information I provided you here might not be 100% correct, as I'm not the correct person to answer you your questions (i'm not from CAAS and not the one drafted the rules and regulations). The drone rules, no-fly-zones and registration procedures get updated quite often. Anyway, wish you a nice holiday in S'pore! 😆