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Uhm, I wasn’t really planning too, this banshee will be wrapped though and they won’t match plastic(these are the stock 94 color and I have found a set of 95 plastics but I mean it’s all for sale for the right price!) Do you need them!? Cuz I can part with them, I just need to find a replacement

@@Always.Looking.For.Adventure yes I do need them , is there any way I can directly message you instead of writing as comments?

@@edwynleon8371 yeah totally, My instagram has this same handle, and logo, that is probably easiest to find, or Facebook. Let’s get something figured out! 🤘🏽 Here is a link: instagram.com/always.looking.for.adventure?igsh=MW00aGpndTVwZHR3eQ%3D%3D&

Haha yeah, so the base reed spacer is 1.625” then it’s got yz125 rad valves modified to a 34mm intake port, with a .090” reed cage thickness(black line between the pink) then I had to make a conversation play for the carbs so the carb on the right(as seen in the video, left hand side of your sitting one seat) it actually has a horizontal of .500” (pinching my carbs together as close as possible while still having room for a fuel line and to give room for the pipes to be modified to still be in frames.) but yeah man, there’s a TON of math in it 😂😂

Yamaha Banshee Part 4: reeds and reed spacers mods th-cam.com/video/MWVNt8Ms_O8/w-d-xo.html This gives a whole explanation on the reed cage sizes and how it stacks out, I actually 3d printed probably, 10 sets of reed cages and the adapter plate before sending it to machine shop… Ha just wait til you see the filter set up we’re working on…

@@Always.Looking.For.Adventure Get to a dyno! Preferably a load cell Dyno Jet, dyno . 1st make a base line pass and tune it the best u can with out spending all day w/jetting and ignition timing with your CURRENT set-up AND THEN take all that “EXTENDED stuff” OUT getting ur carbs CLOSER to the cylinders. Make no changes and make 3 passes in a row. 1st run will be WAY better and the 2nd “PULL will be better because it was probably loaded up on the 1st pull and the machine “cleaned up” during the 2nd. And FINALLY make a 3rd pull and if the number goes down 1 or 3hp that means it’s close enough on jetting and u will have to wait for it to cool down because it will be heat soaked. I’m TELLING YOU that machine will WAKE UP & be happy!! Think about it, The best running 2-strokes carbs feed directly into the crank case, up the transfers, and compressed in the cylinder to fire. We actually take all our cylinders to the mill to give ‘em a hair cut before we send em down the sand alky style💪

@@Always.Looking.For.Adventure UPP intakes are plain, simple, and WORK! I’ve actually got the same motor u have w/115 rod +4 crank and 68mm blaster pistons with the windows larger to match the demon/Athena triple trans cylinders. The only gas motor I run is in my 1st purchased 1995 banshee and left it all stock until 3yrs ago so it’s still got matching chassis and motor serial number machine with title. I actually got a dyno vid on TH-cam I posted w/no porting only “knifing the transfers, window the pistons, and stock carbs on 113 gas. She is a brute!

I get what your saying, the less volume to the case the faster the response as far as hitting the power-band in minimal time… however with the extra volume incoming from the reed cage(yz125 Boysen rad valves in each cylinder, modified to fit, the closest I can get to fit in the the intake and still run the cage is 1 1/2” spacer depth…. Now this isn’t a quarter mile bike, if anything it’ll be a fast duner/ play around hill shooter…. The guys over at CPI racing we’re running 1/2” spacers back in the day. Reason being the reed cage will hit the cylinder bridge even at the depths of the port job. On a stock crank, 62.25” bore a it’s been said that this motor will actually take a 4mil… but I’ve got porting from the crankcase, intakes, exhaust and transfers. The math, in the reed cage modification, at 33.5mm to cause a vacuum from a 34mm carb(likely to be bored out to 35.5mm for the final) The other reason for the length is to see if it gives me reliable power for duning… now if I was flat track racing and just wanted the peak power and as fast as possible then yeah I could see cutting into the crank case to minimize crankcase volume and stuff it full as fast as possible… I cut these spacers long, so that I can cut them down if I there’s to much crank case pressure, so I designed them to where I can actually shave them down and retune if I’m not happy with the response… As for your Upp racing filter, I have looked into it, however with a straight tube style, on your dyno pull, you’d actually likely find it better result if your intake was cone shaped (similar to the shape of a carb bell) to maximize vacuum pressure as it forces through the carb. We use to run pod filters but got tired of the uni’s burning on the back end of the pipes. So we have some plans we working on. I am willing to dyno it, once everything is in preset though, just to see what it actually does as is, and the. If I decided to go for numbers I’d adjust it from there.

Thanks!! I’ll head over and see what you got going on!

@Floridawoodsbanshee, thanks! I’ll have to head over and check out your video, while I do have quads, this is kind of more of a catch up, I have a whole spectrum of projects going, and builds to complete, also always looking for adventure is a brand I’m working to build so this channel may eventually change names but yeah we’ve had some fun with this build, currently waiting on our exhaust/silencers as I need to modify them to move forward, otherwise I have some parts in order, and should be see more here soon as the rest of this build comes together, I also take on fabrication so I’ll be looking into fabricating a swing arm for the stock axle bearing housing!

Thank you! We’re learning on the film side but we have quite a few projects coming up so we’ll get it ironed out. Thanks for the feedback

Thanks man!! You asked some awesome questions! I appreciate the feedback!

@Always.Looking.For.Adventure very welcome man! Jeep up the good work and can't wait for the next up load!

Yeah man! It’s pretty fun once you start, the camera talking is an adjustment at first but comes along pretty quick!! I’m curious to here about your build! You got any photos!?

​@Always.Looking.For.Adventure I would agree 👍 I just started in January. I just uploaded video 12 engine install...

@Floridawoodsbanshee your making really good videos and I will have some pictures tomorrow I'm tearing everything down to get a Lil inventory of what I need and sending frame and stuff for powercoating =) but I built the engine 3 years ago n only has about 5 or so hrs on it. N I just want to get the body n everything else looking good with some new goodies lol

@CodyMaughan-ez5xq that is awesome. If you start a TH-cam channel, let me know, and i will follow your build

@@Floridawoodsbanshee ok sounds good man I'll let you know! 😀

For most parts, rockymountainatvmc.com I also have some that I ordered through shops that friends own, those are coming out of wps-western Powersports. I have used Summitracing.com the mikuni flat slide carbs 34mm. And then I had all the billet parts that appeared pink anodized at a local shop Nova color here in Ogden it. I also have had to go directly to Boysen for the 125 rad valves, and then modified them(couldn’t film the machine work, unfortunately) Then we designed and machined the reeds spacers ourselves as well as the lead plate from the carb boot to the reed cage.

The bore is 62.25 on a stock crank, 18cc domes in the head, the porting is heavily done, intake, transfers, lower case and exhaust ports are all ported, Hinson clutch with a straight gear mod, I have a lock out for the clutch also, however I decided to wait to run it. Motor displacement is a true 350cc

Thank you!! we couldn't agree more!🙌🙌

This was taken out at Little Sahara (Utah)🙌

🙌🙌🙌❄️❄️

Haha remind me😂

they are amazing!!

ots the real deal!!

Its a good time!! have you ever been?

Thank you!! thanks you!🙌

we agree!!