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Zyltech HEVO 2.0 - Setup: Part 7
Configuring the firmware and testing.
Link to files www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28812-zyltech-445-hevo-20
3D Make It - Firmware
th-cam.com/video/KZZXaDGCWpo/w-d-xo.html
Chris's Basement - ABL
th-cam.com/video/iwhbeD2AduA/w-d-xo.html
Dustin Corbin - Stepper driver current
th-cam.com/video/XU6lgFeZ7ZQ/w-d-xo.html
Music
Out of the Skies, Under the Earth by Chris Zabriskie
freemusicarchive.org/music/Chris_Zabriskie/Reappear/03_-_Out_of_the_Skies_Under_the_Earth
Wonder Cycle by Chris Zabriskie
freemusicarchive.org/music/Chris_Zabriskie/Divider/04_-_Wonder_Cycle
มุมมอง: 154

วีดีโอ

Zyltech HEVO 2.0 - Electronics: Part 6
มุมมอง 933 ปีที่แล้ว
Installing the electronics. Non affliate links Ethernet breakout www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J59H5X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Music The Life and Death of a Certain K. Zabriskie, Patriarch by Chris Zabriskie freemusicarchive.org/music/Chris_Zabriskie/Vendaface/04_-_The_Life_and_Death_of_a_Certain_K_Zabriskie_Patriarch
Zyltech HEVO 2.0 - Electrical: Part 5
มุมมอง 1283 ปีที่แล้ว
Installing the electrical wiring. Wire diagram at the end of the video. I'm not an electrician, use this guide at your own risk. Music Internet, the day when all humans will disappear by Monplaisir freemusicarchive.org/music/Monplaisir/Loops_1260/Monplaisir_-_Loops_-_12_Internet_the_day_when_all_humans_will_disappear The end ? by Komiku freemusicarchive.org/music/Komiku/ULTRA_PERSON_VOL4/Komiku...
Zyltech HEVO 2.0 - Endstops, Belts, and Extruder: Part 4
มุมมอง 1794 ปีที่แล้ว
Installing the endstops, belts, and extruder. You can skip the endstops if you plan on sensorless homing. You can find the print files here - www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28812-zyltech-445-hevo-20 Corrections Extruder should be mounted with an M3x6 not M6. I also put the tension spring in backwards. Music Stage 1 Level 24 by Monplaisir freemusicarchive.org/music/Monplaisir/Heat_of_the_Summer/Mo...
Zyltech HEVO 2.0 - XY Axes: Part 3
มุมมอง 2444 ปีที่แล้ว
Building the XY Axes You can find the print files here - www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28812-zyltech-445-hevo-20 Music Air Hockey Saloon by Chris Zabriskie - freemusicarchive.org/music/Chris_Zabriskie/Vendaface/05_-_Air_Hockey_Saloon Non-Affiliate links M3 hardware www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714FLXND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MD Fly ethernet breakout www.amazon.com/gp/prod...
Zyltech HEVO 2.0 - Z Axis: Part 2
มุมมอง 2564 ปีที่แล้ว
Building the Z Axis You can find the print files here - www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28812-zyltech-445-hevo-20 Music Night Owl by Broke For Free - freemusicarchive.org/music/Broke_For_Free/Directionless_EP/Broke_For_Free_-_Directionless_EP_-_01_Night_Owl One Fine Day by The Insider - freemusicarchive.org/music/The_Insider/Alls_Fair_in_Love_of_Wax/the_insider_-_10_-_one_fine_day
Zyltech HEVO 2.0 - Frame: Part 1
มุมมอง 2764 ปีที่แล้ว
Building the frame. You can find the print files here - www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28812-zyltech-445-hevo-20 Music Little Lily Swing by Tri-Tachyon freemusicarchive.org/music/Tri-Tachyon/Little_Lily_Swing/Tri-Tachyon_-_01_-_Little_Lily_Swing Mutations by Small Colin freemusicarchive.org/music/Small_Colin/Tape_Productions/03_-_Small_Colin_-_Mutations_-_Tape_Productions
Zyltech HEVO 2.0 Build Series: Part 0
มุมมอง 2444 ปีที่แล้ว
Step by step build series for the Zyltech HEVO. Some of the improvements include stronger printer parts, improved ease of assembly, and eliminated all heat inserts. Link to the files www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28812-zyltech-445-hevo-20
Preventing Jams with your V6 Clone
มุมมอง 1.6K4 ปีที่แล้ว
A quick guide on how to prevent jams and set up your V6 clone hotend.
Prusa mini hotend / underextrusion fix
มุมมอง 41K4 ปีที่แล้ว
How to fix your Prusa Mini jamming issues.
Maker Coin for #ERRF2018
มุมมอง 235 ปีที่แล้ว
I designed a maker coin for the East Coast Rep Rap Festival using Onshape and sliced with Prusa Control to add a color change.
Import Organic Forms into Tinkercad from SculptGL
มุมมอง 6076 ปีที่แล้ว
Use the free tool SculptGL to create organic forms that can be added to Tinkercad builds!
Goal-tracking with DocAppender Add-on for Google Forms
มุมมอง 426 ปีที่แล้ว
Learn how to use the DocAppender Add-on to create a goal-tracking document or journal that automatically updates.
Automate with Google Forms: Autocrat Goal-setting Document Merge
มุมมอง 836 ปีที่แล้ว
Learn how I used the Autocrat script to get a Google Form to automatically make a goal-setting doc for my training participants.
Easy Lithophane Holiday Project
มุมมอง 5K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Easy Lithophane Holiday Project
BlocksCAD Snowflake
มุมมอง 1.3K6 ปีที่แล้ว
BlocksCAD Snowflake
$1 VR Headsets !?! | Affordable Kit for Classrooms
มุมมอง 756 ปีที่แล้ว
$1 VR Headsets !?! | Affordable Kit for Classrooms
Prusa i3 MK3 Shipping Update | 3D Printer News
มุมมอง 1.3K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Prusa i3 MK3 Shipping Update | 3D Printer News
Micro:Bit Unboxing | Teacher & Maker Tech for Coding
มุมมอง 686 ปีที่แล้ว
Micro:Bit Unboxing | Teacher & Maker Tech for Coding
FT5 Mechanical Bed Leveling
มุมมอง 1.6K7 ปีที่แล้ว
FT5 Mechanical Bed Leveling
3D Printed Red Fidget Spinner
มุมมอง 497 ปีที่แล้ว
3D Printed Red Fidget Spinner
3D Printed Purple Fidget Spinner
มุมมอง 1.5K7 ปีที่แล้ว
3D Printed Purple Fidget Spinner
3D Printed Blue Fidget Spinner
มุมมอง 377 ปีที่แล้ว
3D Printed Blue Fidget Spinner
3D Printed White Fidget Spinner
มุมมอง 527 ปีที่แล้ว
3D Printed White Fidget Spinner
3D Printed Pink Fidget Spinner
มุมมอง 4987 ปีที่แล้ว
3D Printed Pink Fidget Spinner
FT5 Y-Axis Idler Bearing Noise
มุมมอง 3617 ปีที่แล้ว
FT5 Y-Axis Idler Bearing Noise
Designing FT-5 Brackets in Onshape
มุมมอง 3347 ปีที่แล้ว
Designing FT-5 Brackets in Onshape
Design your own 3D printed Fidget Spinner in Onshape
มุมมอง 5567 ปีที่แล้ว
Design your own 3D printed Fidget Spinner in Onshape
Steam Labs visits Austin Maker Faire 2016
มุมมอง 1237 ปีที่แล้ว
Steam Labs visits Austin Maker Faire 2016
Parametric 3D Print Test
มุมมอง 3078 ปีที่แล้ว
Parametric 3D Print Test

ความคิดเห็น

  • @davecbc
    @davecbc 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    This worked GREAT! No more crummy prints. Thanks SO much for the insight.

  • @vanschaaykb
    @vanschaaykb ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for this video, I was having under extrusion problems with my Mini even using Prusament. It has never printed properly since I had to disassemble the hot end to clean out the gummed up junk PETG that I used once. I think this is a much better approach to seating the hot end then described in the manual.

  • @jsvalentin
    @jsvalentin ปีที่แล้ว

    really wished saw this sooner... this is exactly what I did to fix my issue yesterday.

  • @TimNoce
    @TimNoce 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    really wish it would have actually shown how to do this

  • @101fng
    @101fng 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good tip. I’m trying out a V6 style for the first time and have been having a hell of a time sorting out the clogs.

  • @spacespino2325
    @spacespino2325 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    LETS GOO

  • @jerryanderson7466
    @jerryanderson7466 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good vid but we need to see the final product!

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Final product is the in the first 30 seconds.

    • @jerryanderson7466
      @jerryanderson7466 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SteamLabs Oh my bad I missed that

  • @printednest
    @printednest 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    best printer I have, but now Voron on the way

  • @abrahamcink
    @abrahamcink 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I spent two straight weeks trying everything in my 3D Printing toolbox. None of it worked. This took me maybe fifteen minutes to do and it finally works. Thank you and oof.

  • @aussiejosh1988
    @aussiejosh1988 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks mate, Solved my problem. I got the same hotend as yours and would get a clog every 5 layers or so

  • @DargoDog
    @DargoDog 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Seriously, for the price paid, this should not be an issue, and it is really BS that anything like this needs to be done to a new printer. With that, thanks for the video, I will see if this is what is causing my issues. I am assuming that what you said "10cm" that you meant 10mm.

  • @johntabelon367
    @johntabelon367 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for putting out this video. This was the source of my z-banding and clogs. My prints on my mini look 1000 times better.

  • @iLuvCats
    @iLuvCats 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Didn't help my printer at all. Prusa is sending me a whole new hotend assembly. Sucks. My mk3 works amazing. This is not so far. Haven't got one print out of it.

  • @paulcrackton7064
    @paulcrackton7064 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    that was it, uff, perfect, thanks for this video. the only part that made trouble was the pre-assembled one. probably a monday. now its printing again!

  • @jaysf2788
    @jaysf2788 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just did this fix and now my hotend is extruding a ton of excess filament, its like a constant flow of filament, it wont stop until the machine cools down. Is that how the printer is supposed to be? This is my first 3d printer, I'm not really sure how much excess filament should come out after printing.

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Filament will ooze out until the pressure from the extruder is gone. It happens on most printers especially bowden tube setups like the Mini.

    • @jaysf2788
      @jaysf2788 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SteamLabs Wow thanks so much, I asked in the Prusa discord and this is the exact answer I got. I appreciate your quick reply and useful video.

  • @bounceknight3696
    @bounceknight3696 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Just got my mini today, jammed every single time. I have to really thank you, you helped me!

  • @audiorazor
    @audiorazor 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Over a year later and they are still sending them out like this. Pretty bad QC

  • @DranCh
    @DranCh 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You are a life saver. I was going crazy, my mini was doing fine with Prusament but other brand PLA was causing clicking and under-extrusion, then straight up frequent jams. Performing your suggested adjustment fixed the issue instantly. Its amazing Prusa sent out these machines with the wrong height on the hotend, did they not test the printer with different PLA brands?

  • @Dmitry_IMHO
    @Dmitry_IMHO 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You know :-) Many thanks for the straight forward explanations.

  • @1024kilobyte
    @1024kilobyte 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Also fixed my issues with underextrusion and clicking extruder. Thanks!

  • @gryphons3
    @gryphons3 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for this, fixed my issue. I upgraded to Super PINDA and was getting clicking and odd extrusuion issues, pushig up the hotend fixed it.

  • @CopyLion
    @CopyLion 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    New Mini+ owner here, having this issue only a few days in. Hope your solution works and Prusa really should look into this. *sees video date* never mind I think they never did...

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good luck. Mine has been working great.

    • @CopyLion
      @CopyLion 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's not about you, but every time when I see such "working great" comments I wonder what are the standards of "great" is. For me an old Ender 3 + SKR Mini E3 does way better than the Mini OOB. Yea sure there must be someone's machine out there working great, I can see such lucky guys under literally every thread on Prusa Mini's official forum and for some strange reason you can see the same names on each thread. Such kind of comments are usually extra irritating since that helps nothing and (for some of them) implying it's just the user's problem. I've been printing for 5 years, owned 5 to 6 machines and now running a small business selling 3D printed stuff, can't say I am some kind of guru but not an amateur. In this very first week my Mini had this hotend issue (leading to extruder jams too) + MINDA randomly crashed onto the bed during ABL leaving a dent (and the MINDA is not broken but some kind of firmware glitch) + skewed X axis + faulty USB drive fried all my files, too much of these I think sooner or later Prusa Knowledge Base and all the forums can't be any help.

    • @CopyLion
      @CopyLion 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      For the hotend issue: I've tried your trick, it works for around 20 hours of printing then there the jam comes back. Gave the trick another try and changed the filament into some fresh quality stuff. Fingers crossed.

  • @sebabalo
    @sebabalo 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks

  • @anders_frisk
    @anders_frisk 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    really improved my mini! thanks!

  • @keenan8144
    @keenan8144 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for this I got a mini+ and it still had this issue.

  • @youtubieee
    @youtubieee 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    fixed my mini following your guide! thanks a lot.

  • @option3
    @option3 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This worked perfectly for mine, been pretty great prints, since. Thanks for putting this together!

  • @nealmarkham6715
    @nealmarkham6715 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This was the fix for me... thanks! Worked a charm and Mini back up to quality prints.

  • @wmj8922
    @wmj8922 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video. How does the stock extruder do? Would this be one of the first things to upgrade, or is it decent enough? Also, if the rails are upgraded, would this be a good candidate for going direct drive? Or are this printers spans way to large to do anything other than bowden without a total redesign.

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The stock extruder will work. It skips steps if the feedrate is too high, when there are lots of retractions, or with filament imperfections. I upgraded to the e3d titan and I'm happy with its performance. Bowden setup keeps the x axis light, which allows you to print faster with less artifacts. Maybe a e3d hemera would work with the rail system?

  • @wmj8922
    @wmj8922 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video. It has given me a few questions. So the heated bed is powered by the same dc power supply as all the other electronics? Am I missing something? With a bed that size I’m worried the PSU is going to get overloaded. Is there any danger this thing will get overloaded if higher print bed temperatures are used? Do you think an AC bed need to be added for higher bed temperatures?

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The heated bed is powered from AC via the SSR and controlled by the board. If you look at the wiring diagram at the 8 minute mark, you will see the bed and power supply share a negative, but the bed positive is connected to the SSR.

    • @wmj8922
      @wmj8922 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Aha! I knew I must have missed something. Thanks for the clarification.

  • @wmj8922
    @wmj8922 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Do you suggest going the duet route with this printer or to stick with RAMPS?

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The RAMPS board is the bare minimum. The duet is wonderful. You can set up the firmware in 30 minutes and make changes on the fly from your computer or the touch screen.

  • @wmj8922
    @wmj8922 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for putting together this series. I have been looking at the 445 to supplement the build volume of my MK3 printer. I noticed ZYLTech is no longer selling the full kit for the 445, and it is only suppling the mechanical hardware as a kit. Was something wrong with the original supplied kit?

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm glad you found the series. The Zyltech kit had many low end parts. Some barely worked, some didn't work at all. Regarding mechanical parts, I would only get the extrusion from Zyltech. I would also skip the smooth rods for the X and Y axes and go with linear rails.

    • @wmj8922
      @wmj8922 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Do the smooth rods not work well, or is it that the linear rails have better performance? From reading your comment it sounds like you believe this printer needs to be self sourced to work correctly, and I may want avoid the 445 hardware kit? Very interested in building this but want to make sure I start on a good footing. Thanks!

  • @marcelb.7224
    @marcelb.7224 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have the same issue. I hope it works

  • @sweetnessmagoo642
    @sweetnessmagoo642 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you! Totally fixed my issue!

  • @bkindt
    @bkindt 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    The PTFE issue is still a problem. My Mini jammed and clogged exactly like you described.

  • @FrocketGaming
    @FrocketGaming 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    My PTFE tube was over a mm too short for what prusa said it should be. They told me my hot end was too low and needed to be moved up too. Told me to use the 1.5mm allen key that was sent with the printer... Except I didn't get one. When I purchased the allen key I discovered all 3 of those screws are stripped! Ugh. So now prusa is sending me a new heat sink and hotend to replace the whole thing.

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hope they take care of you and get the printer fixed.

    • @FrocketGaming
      @FrocketGaming 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SteamLabs I'm sure they will but it's not what I'd expect from a beginner-friendly printer. I went from 0 knowledge of any of this to having to learn all about the printer just to get it to function as expected. lol

  • @jeffnoxon
    @jeffnoxon 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Having the same problems, and my center grub screw was on so tight from the factory that it rounded off rather than coming free. There's not enough of the screw exposed to grab with another tool. I'm at a loss how to remove it now.

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      There are a few tricks. Always use the flat end, not the ball end. Heat the hot end, that may loosen it. Try super gluing the wrench in the grub screw. If you do get it out replace it with a socket head cap screw. Good luck.

  • @luchoperez3472
    @luchoperez3472 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for sharing! Solved for me

  • @manzub95
    @manzub95 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks a lot i was stuck until i found your video ,now my Prusa mini run perfectly

  • @isaacd.9986
    @isaacd.9986 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey this guy's my teacher!

  • @millionmike1
    @millionmike1 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello did that spare kit come with your prusa mini or did you buy that separate? Also have you had any problems with it since this video? I plan on buying one but I want to make sure to have spares of everything. Thank you so much!

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      This is the spares kit that came with my printer. Zero problems since I did this fix. Good luck!

  • @SM26
    @SM26 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    really good explanation! just one question I have: if the Mini got one PTFE tube inside and one in the spare part kit. why doesn't it come with the right one from the factory?

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      They start off ok, but I believe that over time get compressed and deform.

  • @christopherenoch4230
    @christopherenoch4230 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    God bless! So far, so good! This is very similar to what is in the manual, but enough different that this worked. I did the Prusa way 4 times, still had extrusion\clogging issues. Your way is still working!

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Glad it helped!

    • @tombellucco7155
      @tombellucco7155 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Christopher Enoch How are things going 2 months later? I was told this issue will keep occurring time after time.

    • @christopherenoch4230
      @christopherenoch4230 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@tombellucco7155 Awesome, absolutely no issues. I now know how to get it right after taking the hotend or nozzle replacement... Thanks

  • @xhex_3116
    @xhex_3116 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey dude, awesome video I'm excited to try. How many Millimetres is the gap now between the block and heat sink? Thanks again

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm not sure, it's not critical. Just get it close.

    • @xhex_3116
      @xhex_3116 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Steam Labs Ya pushed it up all the way like you mentioned and it hasn’t clogged since 👍

    • @xhex_3116
      @xhex_3116 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Steam Labs Thanks again, I reposted this link in the Prusa Mini FB group as I am still seeing other users with issues.

    • @tombellucco7155
      @tombellucco7155 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@xhex_3116 How is it working now (after a couple of months)?

    • @xhex_3116
      @xhex_3116 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Tom Bellucco Its working great, i feel like it may have been me using to low temps previously more than the heatbreak itself. I also purchased a newer mini and its been great since day one, no adjustments needed.

  • @paulyorke1437
    @paulyorke1437 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Brilliant mate, many thanks for this instructional video. Just received my Mini and was initially impressed with ease of assembly and testing. Test printing however was not good compared with even the oldest of my 3 x MK3Ss. Out of three test prints (Prusa Nut gcode on supplied USB stick) only one was completed and that wasn't pretty. I followed your instructions to the letter. Also removed nozzle and heat break tube. Spot on, just as you'd indicated, way out of adjustment, plastic lodged above the extruder and heat break tube partially blocked. Just added some heat compound when reassembling the heart break tube. All printing perfectly and my faith is now restored in Prusa again. I agree with other below, this should be in the assembly manual as a standard practice for all Mini assembly out of the box. Still puzzles me that Prusa don't assemble their own product correctly in production.........

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good deal.

  • @allenlorenz
    @allenlorenz 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I am looking to make a hypercube with the z 12, y 10, x 8 rails. I have check the hevo 445 onshape project. I cam find a 10mm dia y carriage clamp, and a Y-Carriage_xDia8LM8UU_1.0, file, but I think I need to find a y-carriage_xDia10LM8UU _1.0 file. Did I miss seeing or or might it be added ?

    • @allenlorenz
      @allenlorenz 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Actually think I screwed up, would be the xDia8LM10UU ?

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      With the zyltech 445 kit both the x and y axes are 8mm. Z is 12. If you watch the original hypercube series, you see that 10mm rod is too heavy and the gantry sags in the middle. If you want a stiffer axis switch to tubing or linear rails.

  • @drexelvenero2604
    @drexelvenero2604 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This video solved the jam issue I was having that is identical to the one you were having, but now I am having excessive stringing. I think I may have raised it too high and now the fan is doing something to the filament. Any suggestions on how high the nozzle should be? Can you measure it?

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Stringing with PLA? Try adjusting your temp and retraction.

    • @drexelvenero2604
      @drexelvenero2604 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SteamLabs temperature and retraction barely helped, the only thing that completely worked was setting the print fan to 0. Using a different filament helped a little.

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Humidity can be absorbed by flame and change it's properties. Try drying it out or use a new filament. I use the stock pla profile in prusa slicer and have good results.

  • @dgarrison1408
    @dgarrison1408 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good morning and thank you again for another great video. I have printed the endstops from the Prusa file and they look different from the ones in your video. Are the ones you are using specific to the optical sensor and if so do you have a stl file for those? Danny

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Oops, I forgot to publish the STL files. I just published them. Here is the original file just in case you need to see how it goes together cad.onshape.com/documents/52b6b41f2085be11b905629d/w/17453f5b96c37f40c69d73da/e/fb05fc127d7942af37afe091

    • @dgarrison1408
      @dgarrison1408 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SteamLabs Perfect. Thank you

  • @mdscheu1
    @mdscheu1 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is so much appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to do this series.

    • @SteamLabs
      @SteamLabs 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Glad it was helpful!

  • @SteamLabs
    @SteamLabs 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I kept saying esteps but I meant steps per mm.