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Yeah, it’s a challenge for sure. There are some games I’ve come across that are just a bit too wide and I prefer a little tighter gap. But, that’s part of it and part of the time period I think. Still a basic yet very fun game.

Yep, the coil had a major meltdown.

@@mazzg1966 thanks man!!!! Happy July 4th to you too!

@@Experternas yes, all three great games! That Radical there is quite awesome. The guy that restored it is from Italy; he brought it to the Chicago Pinball Expo last year before it landed at Past Times. The detail involved is nuts. I happen to own a Junk Yard (actually my sons). It’s apparently one of the few early production games that has an electromagnet under the wrecking ball, though I don’t know that the code ever energizes it. Very fun game.

@@BootsORiley Awesome!!! Thanks man

Those stupid ass horse shoe contacts. They need constant cleaning or adjustment

Yep. I’m sure they are. Went down that road on my own Firepower and after hours and a lot of parts replaced, still had issues. But… it was just a matter of finding the culprit. That was years ago and gave up and replaced it with an all in one board. I still have them and may have someone else look into fixing them; as well as these Hot Tip boards. Curious though… what’s your thought on why the originals are superior over the combo boards? Seems like the combos at least have a leg up on eliminating the 40 pin connection. Thanks for the feedback!

The originals are very well documented. They were manufactured at a time that goods were worth their value. There are no smt counterparts. No new schematics. The interconnect is only an issue due to it being 40 years old and there are actually many still working today that haven’t been touched. Nothing against the new boards it’s just Williams spent tons of money on developing these boards. The 74xx series ic’s are readily available and cheap and typically just work unless something is back fed. The CPU and PIA’s are obsolete. There is no new in regards to those unless NOS which aren’t being stuffed into aftermarket’s. Again with the 74xx series chips, those being smt are inferior to the through hole (cost shows this). The traces and ground planes aren’t as great of quality in comparison either. These are all my personal beliefs but I would put my rehabbed boards against any aftermarket. All that being said, if the originals are gone or FUBAR from alkaline, aftermarket is amazing! 😅 sorry if any of this came off as rude 😬 definitely not the intent! I rehab these for a living and Williams in particular is my favorite!

@@D.R.Pinball wow, lots of good points you’ve brought up. I guess I’ve felt that the newer combo boards were still pretty maintainable from a component serviceability aspect but I’m a little mixed now. For all the smt transistors, there are thru-hole locations to drop in a new component. And it looks like the same for all the 74xx ICs but i honestly don’t know if the pin footprint all lines up (guessing they do). Several other chips are socketed, but they were on the originals too (but don’t the boards have the problematic Scanbe sockets?). As for trace and ground quality, do you mean thickness/robustness of the material? I thought there were schematics available for the new combo boards but I don’t recall seeing them posted anywhere, and I think I just figured they were the same as the original. All in all, lots of good points to consider. BTW, I definitely took no offense to your reply. In fact quite the opposite. This is super interesting and just part of building experience and stuff to think about. Although some of the board stuff I’ve been able to diagnose and fix, I’ve still run into some head scratchers that I ultimately pulled the “uncle” cord on, or just lived with for a later time to eventually fix. I had a cut on a trace in my DE TMNT that took me forever to find. Anyway, I appreciate your feedback and actually might be interested in some help on some board repair if your services are available. Just lemme know how to contact you. Or shoot me an email at rlbohon3@gmail(dot)com. Thanks again.

Yep, I used the LED OCD boards on both the insert controlled light and GI. In this video, I don’t think I had the boards in Junkyard yet, but added them shortly after (and a color DMD). On the DE TMNT, there is not an OCD LED board available for the GI since it is either on or off by way of a relay, however I added an EmerGI Maestro board which bypasses the relay and does a similar effect of softening the up and down ramp of the GI. Helps with softening the “strobe” effect on GI that a lot of DE games have trouble with.

thanks for this great long answer! looks soo much better with led and the boards, so smooth and also colorful and bright! great!

@@lomstertv366 thanks! Yeah, it’s a subtle effect but goes a long way having it smoothed out when playing a long time. The boards seem kinda pricey at first (to me at least) but I’m sold.

@@LeebosPinball yes they are price heavy, especially for me here in germany with shipping, custom, no CE sign and so on… so i use incandescent… only because of the smooth effect

@@lomstertv366 oh, wow… yes, I see how that makes them impractical to use in certain countries

Haha… not sure I’m a wizard-worthy. More like a nut. ;-)

Yeah, it’s super helpful. It’s called a Pindoc Rotisserie. Here’s a link to the pinside store: pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1236-pindoc-restorations/03115-pindoc-pinball-playfield-rotisserie

Yes sir

Thanks and stay tuned! ;-)

Thanks! Yeah, I was pretty pleased with the end result.

Yessir!

Idk why I didn’t get a notification but so glad I checked

Glad you enjoyed it. Still moving along and getting more content for part 3.

Yeah, had to joke a little on the fuse rating. ;-). We’ll see on the original paint. Still kinda 50/50 right now, but will move on to the rest of the project for now.

Indeed!

Thank you for watching! Hopefully you’ll get your bugs squared away.

It was on eBay from Classic Arcades. www.ebay.com/itm/154446572898?itmmeta=01HZJAHAA0M878ZHRQERECKX71&hash=item23f5bbad62:g:hCMAAOSw5D1jxrI5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4CbaUSlC6fqPr1K%2FBjSbu0%2B6xWiv8n%2BbD6ZseJcSyp6%2Fr9xU5WN7Vi558dlBWdc8M8%2BscnsSLw8pRQGZOnWlNkBD7b3UMfqQRpYiQZkO6uiwTt3SJPZeCvJQl44jvpFQ%2BvR2NHOngcdu5bJ4mzSTspzREi0OSmrm41tQi503tkAf6ZtddP4%2BSWwEX4HFwzZGIlDMPQiqMff0LY%2FCYPP5VfGGTcRhDArmBWdL%2F0FBq7s8siH6CConXdxtP%2FQ3R4H9G2Gtu57sWlS3%2FBw8gh1cugsQTeDBT%2F%2Bn0pl3G93Gj0C6%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4alxcr8Yw

Thank you!

Started with Naptha to get the light dirt up. Used 91%+ rubbing alcohol and magic eraser to get out embedded dirt and ball swirls. Followed up polishing with Novus 2 partially with a small dual action buffer but mostly just by hand with lint free cloths. Followed it up with a couple coats of Blitz carnauba wax.

@@LeebosPinball thanks for the reply, it turned out wonderful. Just watched your whole series on the Star Trek, lots of great information.

@@Rottiezucco1 nice! Thanks for watching the whole series. Makes it worth doing when I get feedback from folks watching.

Thanks. Yeah, the game overall has a very original look and feel, including the displays. Pretty pleased with the results.

Classic Arcades. I don’t see it listed on his site, but it’s available through his eBay store. www.ebay.com/itm/305347217600?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qs-F4yG-RLO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks. Yeah, pulling the other games from the basement for shows is a bit of work. They tend to stay in the basement nowadays.

Thank you! Glad to share. I’m pretty please with how it turned out and it will be up for sale soon by the owner. Next project is gonna be “hot”. Stay tuned.

Thank you so much. Yeah, I really like how this one is coming together. It has LEDs but honestly the warm white bullet bulbs really look good and close to the warmth of clean incandescent. Getting close to the finish line (I hope).

Thanks for the comments. Yeah, sorry about the volume levels. Kinda hard to judge through the phone I capture and lightly edit for these videos. I gotta say, I was expecting you were going to point out my voice over coming back from the quiet hoarseness… not the Hakko desoldering vac. Haha. Oh well… thanks again for watching and the feedback. Always enjoy the comments so I know folks are watching. Getting close on this game. Mostly just the dreaded 0.100” connector work ahead.

Yeah, those 0.100” connectors are a bit more of a pain… and I still have several to do. Speaking of wire corrosion, yeah I’ve noticed a little of that too. Tricky stuff! Thanks for the comments.

Haha… well by the time I end a game project, the workbench looks like a murder scene. That’s sort of a “reset” time to clean and put everything back before the next project. Helps with a little mental clarity too. Now where is that screwdriver?… ;-)

PBR doesn’t have ‘em. I spoke to Steve Young directly about them which he confirmed they didn’t have any and pointed me down an alternate path. The one that is still good that I took out is probably worth selling.

Btw, I just checked the slings last night in an actual playing game and they work fantastic with the new slings. I’ll be sure to grab that in the next video.

Awesome, glad these are helping. Yeah, these early Ballys are a little simpler which is pretty cool. Thanks again for the comments.