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I really appreciate it!

@@mcland510 the next one will be sooner than 3 months lol

@@carrieclemmons7466 no need to fight. There’s plenty of video to go around!

@@llukslive thanks man!

I actually enjoy the editing part. Its very time consuming but rewarding when I can take the garbage footage I got and turn it into a polished turd lol.

@@jesusmartinez4853 They are the Fueled Racing mounts. I have a t56 Magnum F and the trans is sitting just ahead of the shifter hole in the car. I used a Sikky shifter extension, but I don’t exactly remember how long it was.

@@RyanOLeary-r3s thanks! I took them apart years ago and painted them. To tell you the truth I don’t remember the paint but it was a flat black. Coincidentally, I just bought new lenses and will be swapping them out soon. I’ll be doing a little video on that in a little bit.

I’m still using the factory BCM for body control. The Haltech is basically a piggy back to the OE electronics. It took a lot of research to figure out how to make it all work. The factory ecu is still in place in order to control the start button and not break the factory CAN communications. If you break that chain, the car doesn’t like it. In the future I’ll rewire the whole car to eliminate all of the OE electronics. My biggest hurdle is the little window drop when you open the door. I haven’t figured out a good way to make that happen without the factory electronics.

If you have any other questions DM me and I’ll help with more specifics.

@@mixedpriorities thanks!

@@mixedpriorities is your name here the same as instagram?

@@Revonemedia nope. My IG name is Nate Caudell. I don’t really post too much on there though. There’s a little car related stuff on there.

@@honkhonk1555 $7848.58 was the exact price. And that wasn’t even some special pricing. That was the advertised price from GM. Now it’s $9679.21. Crazy price increase over the last few years.

@@mixedpriorities yeah, that’s what I figured.

@@Vgk36 yeah, I can never let go of it lol. It’s got more sentimental value now, so no reasonable amount of money could get me to sell it. That’s good stuff though! I loved my 350z and only got rid of it because it was totaled. If you have any questions about the swap feel free to message me. I’ll help anyway I can.

@@Dapowerranger there are. If im not mistaken ISR has mounts you can buy. This swap kit seems a lot more expensive than normal but it is pretty comprehensive. It included the mounts, driveshaft, oil pan, oil filter relocation, power steering lines, and headers. I didn’t pay that much though. Due to inflation everything about this swap is more expensive than when I purchased everything for it. For example, a crate LS3 is nearly $2000 more now than when I purchased it. Crazy.

Don’t get me wrong, I throughly enjoyed the VQ. By far the best iteration was with the Boosted Performance (BP) kit. It’s just this is my first v8 and I’m hooked lol. I appreciate you though! If you ever have any questions about anything feel free to reach out!

@@GregoryBrettin yeah man! Trying to spread the love out here lol. I’ve actually followed your build on IG for a while. My swap is child’s play compared to the awesome work you’ve been doing!

@@mixedpriorities man, hopefully you were able to gleen some information from my trials! Appreciate the kind words. This video was really good. 6min sweet spot talking with previous footage. I was literally thinking about doing a similar type video after I was done, because you're damn right about getting video while working... It's hard when you're solo.

@@GregoryBrettin I appreciate it! I actually referenced yours and Brian McCann’s pictures a lot for ideas on a few things. Being my first ever engine swap there were a lot of things I was new to.

@@MomCanHaveSandwich thank you!

I know Im super late to this comment but I really appreciate it! Recording videos solo is surely a lot more work than a lot of people think.

Having the same issue man, did you end up fixing it?

@@jacobbreland5391 Im late to this, but are you having a leak on the passenger side? I broke my engine harness grommet years ago. I put grey RTV silicone underneath the grommet and put something heavy on it to push it down on the firewall. I never had any leaking issues after that.

It’s a rubber boot. Mine was under the clutch fluid reservoir.

Did you ever fix/find a solution?

Sorry for the late reply. I was watching DBZ. Yes, I found that the leak was coming from the firewall grommet where the harness comes through on the drivers side, just under the clutch master cylinder. My solution was to put black RTV silicone over the top half of the grommet. No issues since!

@@mixedpriorities Thanks for your response, reading in the forums I found other owners had the same issue, my solution was the same as yours.

I contacted these guys. It was a quick turnaround and they were super awesome to deal with. www.calicocoatings.com/index.php

No problem! Glad I could help!

Yeah, there is an electrical boot that runs just above the clutch pedal. It was leaking therefor whatever reason. I put some silicone over the top of it on the engine bay side and didn’t have any issues after that.

Jhony Leyva AAM

Davis Hirsch yes sir. And yep, that’s the firewall on the drivers side, just above the clutch pedal assembly

Ike E no, you’ll have to have the valve covers off in order to align the camshafts for the gear placement. The timing stuff isn’t really that complicated as everything is marked. Just make sure you locate the marks on the gears and chains and ensure it’s all aligned.

​@zguynate where are you located?

Waugy 370z I downloaded it from the 370z forums but I think Nissan has since sent a cease and desist letter about them. I’m sure you can find it floating around somewhere though.

lxXxXfinalXxXxl I know I’m waaaay late on a reply, but it was running really well for the duration. I developed some smoking from the drivers side turbo not evacuating the oil properly. I ended up taking the motor apart to inspect things and discovered some scoring in cylinder 1 that I suspect was from a machining error. Currently, I have another motor being built by Dynosty.

@@mixedpriorities Its all good Better late than never 😂 Sorry to hear that! I was just curious how it was going because alot of zs on the forum seem to have issues with blown head gaskets when boosted so I wanted to see how yours was holding up. Ill wait it out till someone can find the recipe before I go all in. I still have time to decide while sasha devops the bp twin kit if I want to stay vq. Thank for the update.

lxXxXfinalXxXxl as long as you get the proper hardware for the heads and don’t use a cometic head gasket you should be ok. I had the BP single kit for 2 years on a stock motor and didn’t have any issues except for when it blew up lol. That was a rod failure though. Ive considered changing my turbo kit again. I’m really eyeing the twin BP kit. I loved his single turbo as it was great quality. The new one looks amazing. CJM has a DCT trans kit in the works which wouldn’t work with the BP kit. I’m trying to weigh some options and figure out what I want out of the car before I make any decisions though.

@@mixedpriorities Yeah im in the same boat, theres so many decisions. Im just researching as much as I can rn, and waiting on a few things to finish development. 600 looks to be a nice spot to be for riability rn. I still need to figure out just how far down the rabbit hole I want to go lol. That DCT idea sounds sick. Im constantly check those threads for updates. Unfortunatly my syncros are toast, but it may not be all bad if they figure it out a way to make the DCT work. Is yours a 6mt or auto and how many miles did you have on your stock motor?

lxXxXfinalXxXxl mine is a 6 spd. I think it had around 55k miles when the motor blew. I don’t think it was the health of the motor or the tune. I really think it was more of how I drove the car.

It took quite a while only because it takes forever to clean all of the old rtv from the timing covers.

@@mixedpriorities ok cool. Thanks! I just bought a 370z with greddy twin turbo and I gotta replace the valve stem seals. Early morning cold start is rough and puff of blue smoke after the car us started. Do you know if I can replace the valve stem seals without removing the heads? Just going through TH-cam vids for information. Keep it up bro!

@@f80dripkanwoke56 Yes you can but you need to buy a special tool. I believe that JWT, Jim Wolf Tech, sells one. Best bet is to remove the heads while your there to do the headgaskets though. Especially if you have over 100k on the motor.

@@400Redsport Awesome man! Getting more info than I though here! Thanks alot! Can I leave the motor in or pull it out?

That tool works with vq37? Just making sure. I haven't seen any info on that. I only see pple use it in the 350z.

Andy Wu hahaha no flame boi tunes for me

ChueOn This super late reply, but the car ran great up until I removed the motor again due to some smoking issues. The drivers side turbo wasn’t draining properly which prompted me to take a closer look on things. Cylinder 1 had some light scoring which I suspect was due to a machining mistake. Others have had smoking issues with the AAM kit as well so I’m unsure if I was getting just enough blow by to disrupt proper draining or if there is an issue with the turbo kit itself. I currently have another motor being built by Dynosty and will hopefully have this thing going again in a few months.

Faster than your 2nd gear 5.0 lol weak sauce.

@@mrsantosjon U mad u can't beat me??!! 😂😂

@@whipple5.022 I think everyone has. Even that 4 cylinder rs 🤣 you back out all the time so shows who's the loser

@@mrsantosjon Mad u can't beat my 5.0 ROFL😂😂

@@whipple5.022 5.0 doesnt mean your fast. You lost to 2.0s Daniel Hernandez. Want me to call your number too?? I think it was published in public smh.

Joe Jones lol chill bro. I uploaded this video to share on the forums a while ago. All of the details are there. But since you have questions, this was located under the dash on the drivers side. I noticed a lot of water puddled up behind the drivers side seat. I found the source of the leak by pulling the seat out and laying the carpet over so that I could see where the water was coming from. I fixed it by putting liquid silicone around the top of the boot on the exterior side. That particular boot had never been touched or altered so I’m not sure why it just randomly started leaking one day.

Geoff GK I cant say for sure. The EPS throttle bodies were installed on a whole new build so I don’t have anything else to compare it to.

Brian Jackson it’s a weekend car. With the heavy mods I feel more comfortable having a daily driver, although I did daily drive it for 2 months before picking up a proper daily.

Calisole thanks man!

If you just removed the sensor you don’t need the whole assembly. You’ll just have to reset the sensor by adjusting it to the proper voltage. But if you’re replacing the whole assembly I’m pretty sure you’d have to remove the engine. I don’t think you have enough room back there to get everything off. I might be mistaken but those bolts are pretty long.

Thanks! I got my car running better than ever.

2PlaysAway awesome! Glad to hear!

MrKooiie I was using a Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8 impact. Easily one of my favorite tools. It’s worth it’s weight in gold.

Reading this comment 6 years later and I just realized that your humor was lost on me lol, but I got a laugh this time.

iwayne culture man I would love it, but I’m unsure where i would put it right now. I know I’m a month late haha, but I appreciate you thinking about me!

LOL, Proper turbo's cost just about that much ($1800 to $2000 each). Then, exhaust manifolds that don't crack are a challenge. IF you don't know anything, it is best to keep quite, read, and learn.

i'm sure your an expert

There our lot more costs involved I would upgrade brakes stronger trans etc

Fabrication*

you're*

Mohammed Mahdi AL-Hazza I chose 10:1 over a lower compression because you don’t really need to go to that low of a compression to make power with these motors. Your car can get kind of sluggish out of boost with lower compression, and it will take a little more rpm to build boost with lower compression as well. I wanted to keep off boost power still fun while being able to have some headroom to make power on pump gas. It’s almost 700whp on 93, which is really good. People with stock motors (11:1 compression) have to use e85 to get to those numbers. The stage of the kit doesn’t really affect the numbers on lower boost. I chose to stick with a Stage 1 kit because I knew if I maxed it out, it would be way more power than I could ever use, and I could still have to quick spool characteristics of the “smaller” turbos. For me it was kind of a best of both worlds scenario.

zguynate thank you for your response.

Mohammed Mahdi AL-Hazza yeah man. Any time. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

He should have keep it at 11:1.

Spooler after seeing some of the guys here recently making killer power on 11:1 I kind of regret not keeping the stock compression, but when I bought the pistons no one was using 11:1 on forced induction that I could remember. Most people were doing 9:1 actually. Only a handful of guys were doing 10:1. I may swap it up one day, who knows lol.

J Jeffrey Adams The build details are in the video description. It's a lot lol. Are you planning on doing some forced induction?

OH, I see it now! Thanks. Yes, I am planning on a FI TT setup. It seems like it's around $14K not installed. Is there a better option for someone wanting 500-600 WHP?

J Jeffrey Adams You have a few different options. The cheapest that I would do, and have done actually, is the Boosted Performance kit. It's a single mid-mount turbo kit and costs around $7500. When I had it I had 530whp. With twins, you're going to spend around the same thing, $10k-12k on just the kit. Then you have installation and supporting mods. It's not a cheap adventure unfortunately. You could always search the 370z forums for a used kit. I wouldn't do the Stillen supercharger kit. There have been quite a few horror stories from that kit.