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DD Practical, Okay, you are not using the machine correctly. I had the same problems when I tried to use the machine. Don't give up. You will get to the results like the video. 1. Lining up the roller is very important. I am trying to explain this in my posts but i don't think I am explaining this very well. You must make sure this is perfectly straight and this is where the art of the machine comes in, you need to play around with where the "center" of the roller is. This could be slightly forward (for me it was) or slightly backward. I will message more in a moment...

DD Practical. Make sure to always keep the safety bar down. Use two hands to pull the leather through if you are evenly splitting, skiving the entire backside then you can start the skive in the middle or two-thirds towards the edge to where it feels more comfortable and the leather doesn't risk stretching or tearing, after, rotate the leather and skive the the other end and you can put the entire piece through a third time (if needed) to make sure the entire length is even. If you are trying to split a very thick leather down to very thin, you may want to try in two splits until you get the hand of the machine. To get the skive started you can lightly use two hands and shift to the left/right to get the blade to stick into the leather as you pull, the split will get deeper and you can continue to pull the leather through and the splitting will gradually ease and be completed.....for tapered skiving..next

@@TheMITTE this is exactly what we are doing. It is destroying my leather. We can’t pull the leather through with the safety bar down. Full stop. We are only looking to split at this time. We have done everything you have mentioned. With no success. We cannot get the blade aligned straight to the roller without adding various washers etc because of how poorly the machine is finished.

For tapered skiving you need to adjust the machine arm. Always adjust the machine arm to your purpose. I have some tape on the inside of the arm where the adjuster parts are and mark a line for the perfect skive, the thicket skive and the thinnest skive and splits. Adjust the fittings lightly (not aggressively because you want the fittings to easily tighten the handle and naturally fall into the setting, this is also a quirk that takes a moment to learn). It's not digital so you will always have a slight guesswork on the adjusting, this is why I mark a piece of tape. So, for splitting, get a test piece and flip the leather over and split the opposite side of the way you skived down the entire piece of leather. The video is a little confusing because you don't realize that you need to turn the leather over for the different types of skiving. Try and just pull the tapered skive through without tapering first. Once you get a skive that works you can adjust to the leather and twist the butterfly screws to make the skive thinner, after you figure out the thickest to thinnest range you can use the loosening and tightening handle. I hope this is helping you out.

@@TheMITTE hi Jason, I completely understand how IT IS SUPPOSED to work. It just doesn’t. It is physically impossible to align the blade correctly due to how the machine has been poorly finished. The handle lock doesn’t work without adding a ball bearing to it. The safety bar is so tight you can’t pull leather through. The handle has bent. The posts that hold the blade are uneven and NOT FLAT. It doesn’t matter what we do, it doesn’t work.

halo, silakan email kami di cso@csosborne.com dan kami dapat memberikan harga dan biaya pengiriman. Terima kasih

Hi Jason, the posts that my blade mounts on, IS NOT FLAT? It's unevenly bevelled? So when you tighten the screw it changes the angle of the blade. I have had NOTHING but problems with this machine. I just CANNOT get a satisfactory cut. It is DESTROYING my leather. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated as I have orders I need to complete and I just don't know what to do!! :'(

@@ddpractical Hi DD Practical. The blade is completely flat and the machine works amazing once you figure out the quirks. I place the flat side of the blade slightly (maybe a 1-2mm-ish past the imaginary top of the roller wheel center line -away from you if you are standing in from of the machine with the handle on the left side), turn the tightening rods evenly while pressing down on the safe part of the blade to keep it straight, slowly (trying to not move the blade while keeping it as straight as possible to completely tighten)...testing the skive, split. Maybe I can help you if you let me know what you are trying to split/skive? Hopefully I am being helpful and not adding to the confusion.

@@TheMITTE hi Jason, Thanks for the reply! I do not deny the blade is flat. It’s the rest of the machine that is the problem. The way the casting has been finished is substandard. The posts where the blade sits have been unevenly finished so the blade does not sit evenly left to right and can rock back and forwards making it impossible to get correct blade alignment to the roller. Secondly, there is an excessive amount of free play in the mechanisms. When we first received the machine, the locking handle would not lock. We managed to resolve this by dropping a ball bearing down the hole and now it locks satisfactorily. However, when you lock the roller in place it raises the handle side of the roller by around 2mm resulting in it being misaligned to the cutting edge of the blade. Thirdly, the safety bar, which I consider an essential part of the machine, when locked in place (as per the CS Osbourne Video Tutorial), prevents you from pulling the leather through - so we have no option but to leave the safety bar raised whilst using it. Fourthly, the shoulder of the blade retaining knobs are significantly smaller than the slot machined into the blade - therefore the blade has physically come away from the machine whilst we have tried to split the leather resulting in injury to myself. We have temporarily rectified this by filing down some large washers to fit. It has been a disaster from start to finish. I’m just trying to split 2mm leather to 1mm for pockets for my Leathercrafts. I have customers waiting on their orders.

@@ddpractical I am thinking I should make a video.

@@TheMITTE you make a video. We’ll make a video doing everything the same as you and you can see how shit our machine is. We are not new to how things work. Our machine isn’t fit for purpose.

of course he.

Nice to see they got back to you in a hurry.

Hi, may I ask where you picked up this machine?

dane jurasley hi I never bought it, I go to a local shop who has a camoga splitter, this machine in the video is good for thick leather straps but not regular jobs

Thanks ms Marie Anne, I wanted to use it for wallets and other small jobs. I don’t believe it’s for me.

dane jurasley for that you will need a bell skiver, a little pricey, but less expensive then a camoga, also can let you skive around the edges, it’s perfect for wallets and bags

It does look perfect especially skiving. I’m just not there yet. Thanks Marie Anne.

Please contact us at cso@csosborne.com for your local distributor. Thank you. C.S. Osoborne & Co.

thanks for the reply! tell please, on functional opportunities #84 better than # 86? and in all splitters the quality of knives is the same?

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