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Awesome thanks another video. Wondering if you ran a tube down the Centre of the spools with a break between spools and vents ?

Excellent, thanks for sharing this excellent design. I was thinking if you running Home Assistant you could add a Automation to this to switch the heater on and off when the Humidity goes high. Using a Sonoff TH16 temp and Humidity sensor which will switch off the power. Fantastic project and well designed , thanks

That seems kind of complicated when you could have used a 12 inch gun safe plug in dehumidifier rod with a cheap humidity meter fromm amazon for 6 of them for 9 bucks. You would be in it around 20 bucks and not have to cut up your AMS case.

Awesome tutorial. However, I have to say this seems like one of those projects where the Jeff Goldbloom quote from Jurassic Park comes in: you spent so much time wondering if you could that you didn't stop to ask if you should. I could see myself making this heater for a tropical terrarium where I want to keep the same moisture level but raise the temp above room temperature. You aren't removing any moisture with this. Having *just* a fan that recirculates the air with the desiccant inside would have far better impact AND save energy (by not running a heater / adding more heat to your living space). If I were you, I'd remove the heater and simply have a small fan.

Why not have an intake chamber before the heater full of dessicant? Then youcould blow the wetter air out somewhere else .

I really like this, mine never drops below 50% since I started monitoring it at beginning of summer so something has to change.

Why not blow in a tube that will go through the center hole of all the spools ?

Nice dude, looks like you’re in Knoxville too! Go Vols! Awesome setup. I have a P1S with AMS myself. My brother has an X1C with AMS as well. Nice to see people 3d printing stuff around here.

А зачем всё это? Система и так нормально работает.

I'd say that if you move it to the lid, it might do a better job. It looks like it would have better airflow, which is what you need along with the heat to better remove humidity. I'm going to try your version as well.

Think this would work attached to the side of ps1, x1c, k1,svo8, ect

Nice project, it’s to bully for me, but nice thinkering. Bud why only toy gasket on the outside. As the walls of the ams are open, that gasket had no point as the inside can attract moist true undead edges.

Very well done. wow.

Well done! Your's is the first effective and efficient print heating solution for the AMS that I have seen. I think you want to make it clear to viewers that your setup is not for drying spools of filament that are wet to start out, but for spools of filament that have been already dried, to keep them dry and pre-warmed for effective performance when printing. Properly drying wet filament can take (depending on the type of filament) anywhere from 6-24 hours to dry a kilo of filament at 60-70 degree celcius.I will be downloading your kit for my 4 AMS units.

Great idea. But I have 5 desiccant holders in the front of the AMS and the two built in back but I also added SPOOL desiccant holders inside each spool and my 2 AMS units each has a constant RH of 12% - 14% Also when heating the air inside the AMS you need to be able to vent the air out of the AMS while the heater is running.

I've been thinking of doing this as well. However, I have one difference in approach. From what I'm look at in your info at 18:35 you are saying it took "about" an hour to drop 12% and with heater on it took "about" an hour to drop 13% with heater off. I'm not sure how you got your apples to apples numbers. But HERE is the difference I'm looking at doing that I think you may have overlooked. You have a store bought dryer and you can check it for this too. In your design, you have air circulating but isolated to the AMS. IN the drier, The air is not isolated to the dryer. Air is brought in from the outside and heated, it then leaves the drier through vents. I have a dryer and it does the exact same thing. In your design, the air AND moisture in that air, is isolated and kept in the AMS. By heating the air, you make the air capable of holding MORE moisture. So you need to heat the outside air, so it can hold more moisture than it already is, then send it into the AMS to pick up moisture from the filament and then leave the opposite side of the AMS.

You should go to 122F at least and have some way to vent humidity out while heater running. A small hole on top should do the trick, but it needs to be able to be closed when the heater is off. Great project!

Pioneer!

thanks for this! it looks very well designed. for cleaning up the holes, you can also use a deburring tool for a bit easier operation

Good idea and good job.

This is some very nice work, but the testing and conclusions are very flawed. If you honestly think that just heating up the air in a closed space is going to make moisture somehow disappear you're mistaken. this setup just slightly speeds up the desiccant absorbing moisture, but the system will quickly reach equilibrium and nothing much will be achieved. There's a very good reason that every single food dehydrator ever made has an inlet for fresh air and an outlet for heated moisture containing air. simply recirculating the same air around, warm or room temp, does nothing.

I believe if one warms up the air in a closed box, the humidity level will go down but the amount of water in the box is constante. That is because what is measured is the relative humidity (RH). Warmer air can contain higher levels of humidity. The reason filament drying works is because the air capacity to carry water is increased and the system works towards an equilibrium, the water in the filament moves to the warmer air. I believe that your system should have a way for the hot, more humid, air to escape, perhaps on the opposite side of the box. edit: worst -> works

While neat, the reality is the heater dropped the humidity slightly faster than straight desiccant but not fast enough to honestly matter. What this really showed is the importance of keeping your entire room humidity under control. Just having a proper dehumidifier in the room is going to make a far larger impact, especially if you are changing filament often. That said, it also depends on what you are printing with. If you are primarily PLA then it takes a long long time to get "wet" filament and your starting humidity is honestly fine. If you were in an area where 60%+ is common, then sure you need to worry about it. My room averages around 30% and I have PLA that sits for months at a time and then prints just fine. The only materials I have to actively dry are PETG and PA6 and even the PETG will usually last a month before I start to notice any problems. The PA6 is just plain better printed straight out of a drying box. Don't get me wrong, I think what you did here is really creative, I just think it isn't effective enough to start drilling holes in your expensive equipment instead of just buying a dehumidifier.

I must say, I was very impressed with your video, and the quality of the build. However, analysing your results, caused me to question the benefit obtained, which appears to be limited to reducing the time taken to lower the relative humidity, in the empty AMS, to an acceptable level. Lowering the relative humidity in an AMS, loaded with reels of filament will obviously take considerable longer. Agreed, with the heater turned on, the moisture in the filament will probably evaporate faster, and the desiccant will absorb the moisture faster, but you have not demonstrated how effective your set up is in a real world situation. I have an AMS, with 7 desiccant containers, 5 slot into the front of the case, and 2 slot into the existing slots.. I live in the south east of England. The temperature is currently 26 Centigrade, and the relative humidity is 60% . Inside the AMS the relative humidity is 10%, and the temperature 26C. The cost, and time involved, fitting your heater, just to save 20 minutes appears questionable. I keep my usual filaments in the four slots in the AMS. I keep other reels unpacked, and once opened, in sealed plastic boxes loaded with desiccant. Doing this ensures the filament I need is always kept in an environment with a relative humidity of 10%, and ready to use.

Thanks for the links to all the materials and tools. Very nice! I'm going to do this project soon since I broke my ankle, and have some idle time. Only have a couple things in my print queue. Ill post my results as well and maybe some improvements I have in mind.

you have 42% in your room. in europe we have 60-80% all time and no drying is needed for pla/abs.

Any thoughts on the electronics long term exposure to elevated temperatures?

very nice ill do this on my ams unit thanks

Nice flying man! Your lines are getting a lot cleaner. I saw that you're still representing the Maryland chapter too, haha right on!

Nice !!!

Yall out flying today?

Awesome video !! Great editing !! Did u figure out your link quality issue ?

Very cool.

Great video ! Sorry I missed it !

Looks super fun. And sort of like you are used to either going faster or need to adjust your camera angle.

Big like. Nice one pal :-)

Nice one mate looking good. Liked :-)

love that tune takes me way back :-) awesome whoop track. Liked an subbed :-)

I stalled on every race to avoid the midair at gate 1. I had some close calls in my dvr and got really lucky and had a lot of fun. Great video.

Nice.