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Thanks! Depends on the slicer and printer. Now I'm using 0.25mm top Z gap and 0.5mm XY gap. Only way to dial in your setup is to test print with slightly larger gaps. Someone watched this video and said I should increase my gaps, so above are the newer numbers and with them the supports came off much easier than in this video.

LOL You don't think you'll need one until it prints once!! Just had to change a hole dimension from 2.15mm to 2.18mm - and now the pin fits! Amazing accuracy!

Thanks! The 3rd party software thing? I only use their Bambu Studio slicer anyway, so no impact on me.

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 nice

Thanks for watching! My advise is just start with a simple working loop. Then you did some wiring, track work and got a loco and rolling stock to run. Wiring is a pretty simple with one rail red side and the other side black system. Mine is red outside rail and black inside rail. Havig no reversing loops keeps the wiring pretty simple. You have to check with a continuity tester on a voltmeter for shorts between the two rails. I run a simple power bus under the layout with one red side and one black side in terminal strips. Each track piece has a red and black wire soldered to the proper side and then into the respective terminal strips. TH-cam has lots of resources and Ron Trains and Things is a great channel: www.youtube.com/@RonsTrainsNThings

Thanks! Started during Covid lockdown...

I think it needs a bit of a rebuild or better to make it from scratch. I did make some straight and curved HO jigs but never publishd them. I made them from scratch as the sizes of the PCB ties and rails aren't the same ratio between the N and HO size.

LOL yea, that was pretty early in my design work especially on the cars. Just got a batch of filament colors as well... Not to mention surgery.

Love to have your views and comments! Just sharing my designs with the community! 3D printing is so amazing. To have an idea and to be able to hold the thing a few hours later!!

You're going to want to convert to DOGE then HODL!

Thanks! I sub'd to your channel, looks like you are off to a great start! I hand built all my tracks. You can do so much if you make it yourself! Well, locomotives are a bit harder especially at N scale....

Thanks! I find the look of hand built tracks so much nicer than any of the factory tracks. It is so satisfying to make your own and I've finally been tuning my turnouts and adding linear servos. I removed and replaced three diverging arms as my originals were too short. Most of my guard rails were too close to the stock rails.

Thanks! My friend's kids that I've given sets to seem to have lots of fun!

They are on Cults for free: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/ho-scale-printed-trains-tracks-turnouts Enjoy!

Thanks so much! Hope some kids have a fun Xmas - maybe trains under the tree!

Not sure what you mean, this is a HO scale 3D printed train set not N and it is Kid Tested and Approved. I model in N scale and give a friend of mine's 4 year old daughter lots of my printed mid designs steps and other N scale freight cars. She has a great time with them! Doesn't have a layout or proper couplers on them but I printed a play version of couplers and she has a blast! I'll hook her up with a layout when she's a bit older. She can use those same cars with Micro-Train couplers! Plus I had N scale at 8 years old! Even if we all know trains are for old guys!

Yes, I am aware this is HO scale, but I am commenting regarding what you said in the beginning…around the 26 second mark… Perhaps I misunderstood you ? No worries.

I see now. My initial goal was a N scale train that worked as a kids toy and later they could add Micro-Trains couplers and use the same toy on a N scale layout for the rest of their lives. So I made printed "wheels" that could be replaced with MT sets and a screw together version. cults3d.com/en/creations/make-a-toy-freight-train-with-locomotive-caboose-and-gondolas-with-intermodal-container-cargo-n-scale-sized-both-fastened-and-removable-couplers Later I made a set of articulated "wheels" that would work on the normal printed versions I use on the layout. I have a FREE STL for a Gondola that has the new "wheels" and also includes a NW2 Locomotive for a kids run around going vroom vroom train! cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/free-40-65-n-scale-ore-gondola-for-micro-trains-couplers-a-dozen-plus-diffe I've always been a N scaler since my own childhood - so for me is THE scale. Here in Netherlands the houses are too small for shoes, let alone HO!! Thanks for watching!!

If you are making your own rolling stock, then the gauge is easy to set and make your tracks to suit! Magnetic couplers can be a simple solution as long as you don't reverse the cars.

Thanks!! Just need to add a diode to prevent any accidental shorts from the frog being set the wrong direction - which will happen....

I use Sketchup Make 2017 for all my designs. You should be able to upload the STL file into your CAD program. I've only ever used SU.

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 I know how to use STL in CAD, but the files aren‘t easy to modify. I use parametric tools, so I can change measurements later. This isn‘t possible with STL.

Sorry, I'm giving away dozens of my designs already. Just hoping to make some kids happy. Made this one free as well: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/make-a-toy-freight-train-with-locomotive-caboose-and-gondolas-with-intermodal-container-cargo-n-scale-sized-both-fastened-and-removable-couplers

Very true! It is "easy" to make bespoke pieces as needed to fit your own layout. Mine is a small 60x120cm layout so I needed to squeeze the tracks in places. I have 12" radius tangential turnouts on the one edge - a 12" curve with a straight tangentially aligned. Was the only way to fit a 12" radius on my mainline. Also my curves are whatever it took to fit the space. Plus Curved Turnouts! Also planning a curved double cross on the new expansion side of the layout. I feel they work better for the build process than aluminim, less of a heat sink during soldering. Thanks for the thoughts and feedback!!

Thanks so much! Well, even at 0.20mm layer height you can still see the layer lines a bit if you look for them. Small details like railings are 100x better with injection molding as well. But with aging eyes and a love of the design process, I'm very happy with my results! The Bambu A1 is a full generation ahead of my CR10 V3, who knows what the limit is on the technology!

Nice video. Just found your channel. 👍 and subbed. 3d printing is getting better by the day I think. I have a creality one resin printer. Great for smaller detailed parts. Dave

Thanks Dave! I have an anycube resin, but the mess and cleanup plus all the trash the process made was too much for me. I'm not into painting which you need for the UV if nothing else. Plus I'm already getting old, so can't see those rivets to try and count them anymore!

Without knowing exactly what you are stuck on... Basically the scissors (L parts) have a top cross and a bottom one. The middle can be one or a dozen. Assemble each of the three Lift parts (L) crosses together into the scissor. The base parts (B) connect to the bottom of the scissor. The part labeled B9 holds M5 and M3 nuts for the main M5 threaded rod from the DC motor and the side mounts between the base and lift. The top is the same with the parts labeld T. The M5 threaded rod spins with the motor. There is a M5 nut buried in the B9 piece which forces that part to move away or towards the motor pushing and ulling the scissor with it. The image on Cults shows the inner parts. What else do you want to see? Hope that helps!

Added a couple images from my Sketchup drawing to the Cults page to help show how it goes together!

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 Thank you, I’m going to comment on Cults to let you know what’s happening. Thank you very much! Cults message: Let me explain what’s happening. I have all the components you mentioned, screws, motor, etc., all the same. I assembled it, but while the motor starts, after a while it begins to slip and the scissor mechanism doesn’t move. I’m not sure, but I must be assembling it incorrectly, because if I manually rotate the threaded rod with my fingers, the scissor mechanism still doesn’t compress or expand. Inside the B7 piece, I have a nut for the rod, and there’s also another nut inside the B9 piece for the rod. I have assembled the scissor mechanism, and it moves up and down when I press or expand it by hand, so it isn’t blocked or improperly assembled. I’m not sure what’s wrong. I also don’t know where the B16 piece goes because it doesn’t appear in the Cults diagram, or maybe I’m not seeing it clearly. Thank's!!!

Odd I don't see this message on Cults anywhere. The B16 piece is just a pair of slip on feet for under the lift. The wires hung out a bit so it lifts the unit up. My 1st guess would be the nut is spinning in B9 or B7. If the threaded rod turns and both of the nuts don't just spin, it will be forced to expand. Make sure the nuts spin freely on the rod but not the B7 & 9 pieces. B7 takes the force which is why it is braced bewteen the two beams. I put it together in steps. 1st make sure the scissor expands apart from the base, maybe add the top, or at least make sure it moves freely with the top on. Then assemble the base and check the motor moves B9 back and forth and the limits both work. Then hook the far fixed end of the scissors to the base and the other to B9. Assuming the nuts in B7 & B9 aren't spinning, it should work... This was my working prototype but people asked me to publish it. So it is a bit clunky to assemble, but proved the basic design and concept. My idea is for a 60cm long lift bridge to a set of upper storage tracks. Hope that helps! Love to see a Make on Cults if it ever works!

I'd love to see that build! All aboard the Poop Train! I set my flushing to 0.40 and only had to bump to go from black to yellow. Under half the default waste... The original idea is for a train lift to a storage level. Same effect as a helix but much smaller. I'm slowly adding a bridge and the lift would replace the bridge...

Thanks for your thoughts and feedback! The track ends have "dog bone" connectors and those little curves are where the print has failed. My little living room is 25c and no real drafts, also if the bed is cleaned with a tiny bit of dish soap it sticks fine reprinted. I did noticed that the A1 does a auto bed leveling calibration, but only for the 18cm mini bed area. So the right side and back aren't compensated. It is in the right side where I have had issues... The turnouts are just friction fit. Breaking them free is not impossible, but not super easy. I got all but one appart. The ones marked "Creality" are with larger gaps. Will make the turnout as a HO #6 jig eventually.

The Bambu slicer 1.10 update fixed the bed leveling issue! Now it does the entire bed and the track pieces are indeed sticking fine without the brim!

Appreciate it!

You're very kind! Love making curved turnouts! I have a double line with a curved crossing track planned! I find the printed jigs work better for soldering the rails, less of a heat sink and encourages quick work.

Thanks so much! This was more effort than I expected! Getting the turnouts to print one piece and still work took a few versions! They should be in gauge for normal HO cars too. Need to make a battery powered locomotive for it!

Thanks! Was lots of work for sure! Been lots of Stand Up Comedy shows too...

If you are using the same slicer then the setup for the new printer may not be right. Did you update the slicer? I was slicing with S3D with my CR10 V3 but now use the Bamu slicer with my A1. I entered manual pause commands for S3D with this code - replacing the XXX in BOTH places with the layer number just after the pause: change color {REPLACE " M117 Layer XXX, Z=" " M300 S2000 P100 G91 G1 X10 Y5 Z20 M600 S500 P50 G1 E-3.5 F1200 G90 M117 Layer XXX, Z="}; pause at layer, move head, play sound, change filament You could try the Bambu slicer as it is free and has a simple way to add the pause right clicking the layer slider and hitting pause. Hope that helps!

Thanks so very much! Really loving the multicolor prints with the Bambu A1. Glad I learned with 1st and 2nd generation 3D printers, since it is easier but still a 3D printer. Love to do design! Design opens up the true potential of 3D printing!!

Tanks for the thoughts. It did seem to happen after I updated. Is a new printer so I'm playing with settings. Adding the 0.2mm nozzle to the config, thought that may have swapped something internally. Reinstalling the slicer worked. The file had the error, I reopened it and bricked the slicer again. So the reinstall definitely worked.

Yea, was my thought too. Was the 1st thing I checked since I had just added the config for the 0.2mm. But wouldn't it be at least as quick with the 0.2mm? Or ir will take days!! But uninstall reinstall the slicer fixed it!

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 0.2 drops flow rate way down

I meant the print head speed. If the head also slows down for the 0.2mm, then it is double slow. One of the most obvious difference between the CR10 and the A1 is the blistering print head speed on the A1.

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 Yes, the print head slows down to match the flow rate. If it's set to 0.4 and still acting up, factory reset it and see if that fixes it. You can also try uninstalling and reinstalling bambu studio or try Orca slicer. I'd probably start with Orca first though. If it's fine with that, then uninstall/reinstall bambu studio

I do really like the A1. Soap and water to clean the bed is critical. Uninstall reinstall the slicer fixed it!

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 Thank you for getting back to me and re-instating my comfort level of this printer. Also happy to see your fix was not an expensive fix. Happy printing and enjoy your 3D journey. 👍

Thanks and a working printer = happy! Really love the multicolor. The first things I printed was a Hopper with SOCO graffiti :) and the three different Canadian Cylindrical grain cars! Truly amazing multicolor prints! Wanted that for ever! th-cam.com/users/shortsw20Va8ri5AY?feature=share Working on a sleeping Homer boxcar!

Did that to no avail. Did it with the slicer - uninstall and reinstall - We rocking and rollin' again! Thanks for the thoughts!

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 when stuff that worked yesterday stops working like this, i always just reset them :)

The old files were all 7 hour prints... The flaw seemed to be the slicer. I uninstalled it and reinstalled it and it worked again. I actually opened the file from the machine side in the slicer again and POP up came the error window and it again sliced an hour into three and a half hours. So the slow print head made sense. Repeat the re-install and again it worked. It printed fine - but just slow, so the nozzle seemed ok.

Yea, I ran the updates and added the 0.2mm nozzle as well. Uninstall reinstall fixed it though. If it isn't blistering fast, something is wrong...

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 glad it's all working now. One thing I noticed on mine, I had a print lined up and yesterday it had a build time of 7 and a half hours so I put it off to today. Today the print time was 5.3 hours. so probably a slicer glitch.

That is concerning if you didn't do anything between the slices. If you editied it, missing even a small piece during the color selection can really add to the time too!

I meant the print speed. Love my CR10 V3 - used it for years no issues, but it is 1/4 the speed of the A1. The 30cm bed is the one thing the CR10 has over the A1 so far. Everything in my layout up to the multicolored cylindrical grain cars is ff the CR10. Looks like the K1 Max is bigger and more expensive than the A1. I returned a X1C - maybe it was faulty. The A1 is 1/3 the cost of a X1C and a better printer so far for me. Soap and water cleaned the PEI bed and fixed my adhesion issues.

Thanks for the thoughts! Somehow the slicer corrupted the file and uninstalling and reinstalling the slicer fixed the issues.

after watching is almost certainly a clogged nozzle

Fortunately not! Turns out the slicer was somehow corrupted and reinstalling it fixed the issues. If you watch, the purge took four minutes! No doubt I was clogging the nozzle...

especially with the blobbing on the first black layer we see near the end, that is definitely a partial clog.

Yea, that nice shooting out of the plastic was missing! Very frustrating! Reinstalling the slicer fixed it though! Thanks for the tips, will check out the maintenance mode.

I pulled up a few older sliced files from the printer and they all had the proper quick times on them still. But they were 7 hour prints... What it did print was just fine. I did that years ago 2.85 - was very cool. Like puffy foam. Uninstall reinstall the slicer fixed it!

It was consistent in how it was being wrong. The time was right as it sliced. But when I used the presets, all should have reset too. So the slicer seemed to be the issue. Uninstall reinstall the slicer fixed it!

@@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922 Excellent, good job getting it sorted. Enjoy the printing :-)

I have an A1 and Ender 3. You can do a cold pull on the nozzle fairly easily. You can also remove it with no tools and heat it with a torch to help clean it.

Turns out the slicer needed a reinstall to remove whatever became corrupted. When I reloaded the file from the machine - it rebricked the slicer. So the reinstall definitely works. The A1 is a full step above my CR10 V3. Speed and quality. I used to leave a gap to make a part fit inside a larger piece. The A1 lets me eave no gap at all. Have no clue what will be required when the nozzle clogs. I've replaced the extruder on the CR10 a few times though!!

Did that once! Was set to 0... So many things to go wrong... Uninstall reinstall fixed it though.

Came here to ask this too

I buy in bulk from Alibaba into the EU via rail. 24 rolls usually comes out to $8 or so a roll delivered. Four or five different suppliers and always so far no issues at all. One roll of Gold was a bit thick in spots, but I used it for the filament spools and holder. It still printed fine. PLA+