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Thanks D!

In this case, that’s correct. But some situations may allow movement and adjustments both vertically and horizontally.

@@kaceytube6503 thanks.

Unfortunately, I don’t have access to the jobsite. What details are you looking for? I may have other photos or videos in storage.

The window in this video doesn’t have “hinges”, but rather a top and bottom shoe sliding on a track, with control bars. Hinges, on the other hand, can sometimes be adjusted by deepening the mortises, or shimming the mortising, depending on which way the window needs to move.

Thanks! I find the assembly to be rather simple, but there are other factors that are more complicated toward achieving good long term results. It's good to anticipate the effects of the weight of the heavy stack, all at one end. Also, a big problem I've seen with big heavy houses (especially New Construction) that have big heavy doors, and sometimes heavy clay shingle roofs, is issues related to settling, both from the compression of building materials, and the variation of movement in the stemwall/foundation. Often the wide door opening ends up with a big hump/frown in the floor under the door sill, because the heavy walls at the ends of the opening are pushing down and compressing from all the weight while the central threshold area has very little weight pushing down on it. If the door frame frowns to much, it's a problem for multi-sliders and multi-folders (even more so). With tall walls, or multi-stories, it's best to install these wide doors towards the end of construction, after the heavy building components have had time to settle. Having a flat, straight threshold in the long run is key to a well functioning door (maybe even shimming the sill slightly smiling, if settling is anticipated). And, of course, good water drainage is important. A slightly sloped sill pan is a good option... or in the case of this video... a huge patio cover!!

Hi Brock. I’m in Boise, and sometimes work up there in McCall. We can chat. Find me on Facebook. Wooden Tiger’s Tail Workshop.

We are looking to do this exact thing. My husband is a carpenter also but is apprehensive about trying to do this. Did you buy plans for this? Any tips? Thanks so much.

No, I didn’t work from any plans. I had to figure it out, but, I’m already in the window and door industry, so i am familiar with how products are assembled. The only topic I had to research was the gas spring part. You can message me through my Facebook page, Wooden Tiger’s Tail Workshop... we can chat more about it. There are many ways to approach this project, depending on size, weight, and desired materials (metal, vinyl, fiberglass, wood...)

@Andrew Goldin yes, I removed the interior wood glass stops, and caulked the glass in, then re-nailed the stops the give that extra strength to keep the glass in the frame. Sierra Pacific also uses a strong adhesive for glazing their glass (which makes their glass very difficult to remove for reglazing). Since it was a more bulky door frame sash, i felt that the rigidity of the frame was sufficient, though i did reinforce the side edges with 1/4” metal strips, to keep the sash together better. The top two corners are certainly bearing a lot of pressure, as you can imagine.

what if it's the opposite. Multiple casement windows of my house have stressed stud brackets detached from the bottom of the windows. They are positioned as if the window is sagging lower than it should be, therefore the operator arm look stressed and too high to go back under the window. Would it be really the windows that came down or distortion on the operator side?

@@Tko_Seven I think it’s more likely that your sashes have sagged. Check the gap margins around the exterior, between sash and frame with the window closed. See if you can adjust in a way to make them as even as possible. Sometimes sashes end up out of square, too, and may benefit by shimming the glass unit itself within the sash frame, if possible. Casements can be tricky sometimes.

@@kaceytube6503 thank you. Will do. It's 3rd and 2nd floor of house, Imma have to get tall ladder. I will try to come back alive.😀😀

The method I show in the video can work for this particular type of hardware, found in some "push-out" types of casements. There are many types out there, so maybe this doesn't match the hardware that you are dealing with...?

Hmm, what brand is that? There are so many types of hardware for casement windows. This video is only addressing the push out type, which doesn't have easy adjustment options. Sometimes ya gotta get creative.

LOL! right??!!

@@kaceytube6503 I think he means your audio is pretty bad!

Ya, just used an iphone, and I’m not experienced with video editing to reduce offensive noise. I should figure that out someday.

Hmmmm, is that a crank-out window? If so, those usually require a special wrench (or sometimes pliers can do the job) to adjust the pivoting rivet post/thing.

I'm glad it helped! Thanks for the comment.