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Platinum and Yamabuki make a great pairing and I plan to repeat this coming spring. I don’t know your experience level, so what I’m about to write might be too basic for you. There are several issues related to spawning and rearing koi that are challenging. One of these is related to the ammonia spike that can occur after spawning and can last for several days. If you don’t have a mature dedicated filter, you might experience large number of eggs that simply don’t hatch, or fry that can’t survive the first few days after hatching. If you don’t have a mature filter then you’ll need some way to manage the build-up of toxicity. Slow trickle of fresh (non-chlorinated water) is helpful, but if you’re on city water this might become expensive and difficult to manage. I have well water, so much easier for me. If you mange to get the fry to about 3 to 4 days old you’ll need to provide an abundance of food for them, again, without destroying your water parameters. A good source of green water can be very helpful during this period. You can also use a coffee grinder to pulverize high protein fish food into dust. There are also places online that sell foods for very small fry. You can also rear baby brine shrimp.

@@spkennyva I've raised koi in my in ground pool for a few years but they were poisoned by a family member in 2018 so other family members could use said pool. I had the koi at around 12-16 inches each and none were more than 3 years olds and some had spawned naturally. This is my first planned breeding experiment. The ammonia spike is the only factor I'm worried about. Do you have any filters you'd recommend?

@@spkennyva I plan on using fish meal (for animal feed) for the fry. Then slowly getting them to the regular koi food, and a earth worm diet (I raise my own earth worms for my gardens.)

@@DEC3TheWokeProject Regarding filters, I use a fresh water flow thru system for the first few weeks, and then recirculate main pond water from then on. There's a very experienced guy on Koiphen.com. Here's a link to the type of filters he uses: www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?168388-Let-s-see-who-s-ready/page12 Here's some that I made a few years ago. www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?169547-2020-Yamabuki-Ogon-cross-Gin-Rin-Platinum-Ogon&p=2765145#post2765145

@@spkennyva Thank you so much for the advice and the links

Yes, it remains a solid machine without the need for any repairs. It preforms as well as it did seven years ago.

Follow-up pics can be seen here: www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?169547-2020-Yamabuki-Ogon-cross-Gin-Rin-Platinum-Ogon/page2

Yes, still happy. It has proved itself as low maintenance, reliable, and efficient. As a one-person operation this machine is invaluable. Thanks for the comment.

@@spkennyva good to hear! Thank you for responding and hope this year is a great harvest. We are looking to upgrade to an unit similar to yours. I need to get a larger extractor to save time. All the fun stuff. 😃 Stay well & safe - Tom

@@OutdoorsandCountryLiving Yes, a large extractor is necessary to fully benefit from this uncapper. If not, you only shift the backlog to a different point in your process. I'm running a 32 frame Dadant, and still find myself waiting...

The Lyson uncapper continues to perform well. Still very happy with the purchase.

Still running well - zeros issues. I just finished my spring honey harvest and it worked flawlessly.

I don't think so. The fry went into a large pond and haven't been able to track the progress of the really dark ones. However, there are several very respectable Sanke that resulted from this spawning. I'll try to post a follow-up video in the spring.

Yeah do some updates it's interesting to see. I'm gonna try some spawns in a years once my fishes are big enough.

Hi Keith, I strongly recommend using 9 frames in 10-frame boxes. This will result in the comb being built out further than what you'd get from using 10 frames. I find when using 9 frames that minimal additional hand work is needed. However, when using 10 frames there are many areas that don't get uncapped and the efficiency of this machine is dramatically reduced. However, keep in mind that the blade depth of cut is fully adjustable so you can "dial-in" the machine for your preferred mode of use. Another thing to be aware of is that this uncapper can be a bit rough on "first year" comb (the really delicate white wax). I suspect that all similar machines suffer from the same issue. I find that going slower through the cutter on newly drawn comb helps to minimize comb damage. I don't see the same issue on older comb.

Hi Tom, Ideally, one would have a wax spinner, but I haven't yet invested in that equipment. What I do is very low-tech! Basically, I dump the capping into large storage bins until I have completed all of the extraction, then I fill up capping spinner bags and use my 32-frame extractor to spin it out. Again, not optimal, but but cheap and effective.

It does sound like a goat, but actually the sound you head was actually made by the bees. Bees get really excited when given a new queen, so it was either one of the worker bees, or possibly even the queen could have made the sound. Fascinating creatures!

It's really not too bad. I basically just hose it down. I don't bother with spots of melted wax inside the tank, but do scrape off the ends of the bars that force the frame through the cutters.

Hi Greg, I'm as happy with the system now as I was when I first got it. I had to add an additional extractor to my operation to really make the entire process efficient. I'm now running two extractors, which makes all the difference. Regarding maintenance, there has been none. Not even tweaks to the cutters. The steam system is probably the weakest link, but one tank will last well over 2 hours, and buy that time I can use a brief break while it comes back up to temperature. Another option would be to buy an additional steamer (about $50), and simply swap them out. This would basically eliminate down time related to the steam. The system works best when dealing with a single size frame. I run mostly mediums, and it works best on that size frame, but I also throw in some deeps and shallow frames and it does pretty well. Shallows run through the system much better than deeps. The feeder is not setup to run both deeps and mediums without adjustment (at least I don't know how). So when I run deeps, I just feed them into the hopper one at a time. Honestly, this isn't a huge penalty, but it is slower. Before I bought this unit, I was contemplating a chain uncapper. I'm really glad to went with the Lyson steam unit, because the capping come off in basically large sheets, which results in very little cappings in the honey. Chain uncappers really pulverize the capping, which requires more processing to separate them out. I course-screen the honey right out of the extractor into 5 gallon pails - no clarifier needed. Hope this helps.

@@spkennyva this is very helpful Sean and much appreciated. Its good to have your longer term experience with this thanks

Is there any option to chat re this uncapper? I bought one and need some advice. I cannot get it to cut properly on both sides at the same time. I adjust one to work but the other side misses 50% of the cappings. No manual, a video in Polish and no one around me with experience. It sits on the table as ai sadly uncap by hand 😂

I'm sorry, but I'm not familiar with either of the frames styles you mentioned. I use exclusively Langstroth frames. That said, I've run (without adjustment) deeps, mediums, and shallows through this uncapper. All work, again without adjustment, but it seems to do best with medium frames. I recommend that you contact the manufacturer for further guidance.

Well, the manual version prefectly fits my needs. Besides, it's about 1/2 the price of the fully automatic unit. This manual unit is extremely efficient, plus you're in total control. This means that if there's a misfeed, you can easily back off on the feed rate and fix the issue without destroying any frames. For my operation, uncapping is no longer a bottleneck.

The approximate available space is 49 inches, and assuming an end bar of 1.375 gives roughly 35 frames storage. Of course the tank is longer, but the cutter head takes up some space over the tank. Hope this helps.

It is actually very easy. The handle allows you to easily generate force to push the frames through the cutters. I like that manual feed because it gives you feedback in case a frame is not properly fed into the cutter. You can easily reverse the feed if necessary. I suspect that an auto feeder would be less forgiving.

W NG Wow! Your ascertains about who I am and how I manage my bees are absurdly false. I strongly suggest that you stop painting every beekeeper who suffers losses at the hands of an irresponsible pesticide applicator as the responsible party. Not all situations fall into your preconceived beliefs.

W NG You sir, are an idiot.

TO KENNY & AKERS --- According to Albert Einstein, the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. What is the definition of bee-keeper insanity ?!?! Here is an example. Ontario bee-keepers allege having lost nearly 38 per cent of their bees winter 2014-2015, a rate that was more than three times the national average of other provinces. Seemingly, Ontario bee-keepers are losing their bees over and over again. Why is this insanity happening ?!?! Observers have concluded that many Ontario bee-keepers have no idea what they are doing, and are simply not competent to raise bees. Ontario bee-keepers are killing their own bees over and over again. The alleged losses of bees are, in fact, the fault of these bee-keepers and their mis-management practices. They are responsible since they appear to be unable or unwilling or not competent enough to mitigate the real issues that harm bees. They prefer to remain incompetent at bee-keeping, and expect the government to shower them with vast sums of unjustifiable compensation. tinyurl.com/l8odbpc wp.me/p1jq40-77N wp.me/p1jq40-7VI Why are only a very limited number of bee-keepers affected ?!?! Because they represent the incompetent bee-keepers with the insane management practices. These bee-keepers kill their own bees, and not neonicotinoid insecticides. Competent bee-keepers readily admit that poor hive management ( i.e. starvation, weak colonies, fungal infections, and mite infestations ) and weather are most likely to blame for bee losses. Incompetent bee-keepers falsely blame their bee losses on neonicotinoid insecticide, and believe that they are entitled to unjustifiable government compensation. When will this bee-keeper insanity end ?!?! Why don’t government inspectors and specialists investigate the killing of bees by bee-keepers ?!?! Ontario bee-keepers who lose their bees over and over again without changing their management practices can only be described as insane and incompetent. For more information about bee-keepers, go to The Pesticide Truths Web-Site … wp.me/P1jq40-2BA

W NG Give that your latest response is a basically a repeat of your previous comment, I think Albert myself would start to question your sanity.

W NG Oh, one more small detail, the pesticide investigators came back with the finding. So sorry to blow your pet theory, but my bees were indeed sprayed by a restricted insecticide in an "off label" way.

TO LARSON -- In fact, it is the bee-keepers that deserve strong litigation. This #@!!% BEE-KEEPER INSANITY must be challenged and stopped ! In jurisdictions like Ontario, there is now no other recourse but litigation against INSANE BEE-KEEPERS in order to STOP THEM from destroying the agriculture industry. CropLife Canada, Grain Farmers of Ontario, and all agricultural businesses, WILL SUE the neonicotinoid-hating fanatics’ brains out ! For more information about LITIGATION, go to The Pesticide Truths Web-Site … wp.me/p1jq40-7Ub

W NG seriously man. get a life.

NORAHG is the National Organization Responding Against HUJE that seek to harm the Green space and agriculture industries. Get the latest and SERIOUS details at The Pesticide Truths Web-Site pesticidetruths.com/