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@@victorf.4599 I'm sure it will sound great. I did mine for the hp gains mostly.

@LewandowskiDamianManager yes my o2 sensors were to far apart on the graph. During my data log at idle, that indicates a bad injector I also had a vacuum leak before that. So on the 2014 mustang there is a o2 sensor on each bank and if one side is more than 5 or 7% apart from the other while at idle it means something is wrong and you shouldn't be making a tune until it's fixed. My tuner found this issue when I sent my data logs. That's how I learned about this.

​@@GillettesgarageThanks. Good video btw.

Definitely gonna seal it.

Last I knew he was having some health issues. They put him on total t to try and help but I never heard anything else. I think he closed the shop

And stiffed is all

Ha ha ha real funny 😁 please click the button and donate to the channel so I can buy more parts. 😆

I have a video in process but it needs a good ending still.

I decided it's not the engine and it's something with the transmission. Someone commented they fixed theirs by replacing the transmission and I'm not wanting to spend the money to do that. So I'm just gonna let it tick. Ibwent through the engine and determined the engine is fine. So I'm just gonna drive it like this.

@@Gillettesgarage thank you I appreciate the response!

Thanks for the sub. I will eventually put out another video on the nitrous install. I work full time so my videos come out alot slower than other channels.

I think you're talking about me deleting the cats that came with the kit. Injust used 3" exhaust pipe from Orielys if I remember right.

www.americanmuscle.com/stainless-power-long-tube-headers-performance-connect-1114gt.html That's close to the kit I used the item number is one off. Maybe it's a newer version.

@@Gillettesgarage ok 3” I have a 3” BBK AFTER cat xpipe right now ( no 02 bungs) my question is, can I just re use this pipe or do I need to purchase a separate shorty?

@@Gillettesgarage also no welding? You just used clamps? Sorry for all the stupid questions, this will be my first set of headers.

If you use the cats that come with it. You shouldn't need to weld anything

Took me one day to install them. then the next day to finish it up. Probably 6 hours work. It was pretty easy really.

It's alot of work to do the headers that I can tell you.

Yes NEW 5th Gen QUICKTRICK QUICKSTRING - 4-Wheel Alignment wheel-size: 15" - 20" Wheels Toe Bars: Up to 38" Tires Add QuickTrick Steering Wheel Holder (54.00): QuickTrick Steering Wheel Holder QuickTrick Extensions 3/4" (12) (38.00): QuickTrick Extensions (additional fender clearance

www.cjponyparts.com/total-control-products-subframe-connector-system-package-with-driveshaft-loop-coupe-fastback-1965-1970/p/TCPPKGSFC1/

@@Gillettesgarage thank you!!

There's a couple links in the description.

This video is two years old I ended up putting spindles and breaks from the 01 mustang I have sitting around. And eliminated the bump steer kit. I did end up adjusting the a arms to get the camber and caster set. But I don't know how close to stock a-arms ended up. I did go with whatever the stock setting were. I should note that this k member and whole drive train is now in a 93 notch color black. That I call the black stallion in the video names in newer videos, and I did a quick string alignment more recently on that video. With a,set up that pretty much identical to yours. I don't regret getting adjustable ones. But I don't drive mine on the street alot. I think they would hold up just fine tho.

Thanks for the well thought out comment. I appreciate it. I didn't have to drop the k member and I don't personally recommend doing that, it's wasn't necessary for me anyway. I used an engine bar from harbor freight to hold up the engine. I did however find a way to connect the passengers o2 sensor with out an extention wire. Cuz the plug is snapped to the transmission on the upper passengers side and if you're very careful and use the right hose removal hook you can get it down with out damaging it. There is slack in it after unmounting the plug. I used 18mm plug foulers to offset the o2 readings on the back and that worked ok, but didbthrow a code after wide open throttle. I did however have a slow injector I needed to fix, In the end I bought a program and turned that off myself. Injust wish I could turn off the low tire light in the ecu. But there's no switch for that. So I had to buy a gadget for it. I opted for new gaskets cuz wouldn't it totally suck to have to donit twice cuz I tried to save $30 reusing old gaskets.

That's still under investigation. I been driving it as it's my winter snow and salt vehicle. This spring I'm gonna check the timing chain tensioners. There alot of stuff that it could be. But one by one I been eliminating them. When I find the tick and fix it. I will definitely be posting that.

@@Gillettesgarage I had it a couple V10 back. On an excursion. I realized that it was caused by non OEM coils and injectors I stupidly installed then removed. And it left a tick sound.

If that's all it is and I almost hope thats all it is, but I could live with that...

I tried that and removing the belt didn't stop the tick unfortunately.

They sell a spanner wrench for it.

@@Gillettesgarage yeah I totally understand that but i haven’t been able to find one that would work with this type of nut.

I did check those and repaired a couple plug holes. I been all through this thing on a few diffent videos trying to find the tick. It will eventually show it's ugly head. 😅

The kit information is in the description clamp sizes are probably in the ad when you search the kit number. But I think they are 3" since the x pipe is 3"

I haven't font the issue yet. The tick sound has changed a little tho so I'm starting to think I should look closer at the timing chain tensioner.

I wouldn't say can't.

I am gonna turn that down for a slip fit to narrow the 9" to 42" axel flange to axel flange for my 1965 mustang.

@@Gillettesgarage that looks like it's supposed to be a butt weld with that bevel on it but there's a serious diameter mismatch. I Know about fitting and welding pipe, structure etc, but nothing about axles. Make sure face stays good and square that looks like it's gonna wander a lot under heat.

@chasenk00019 it is you're right. But it was made for 3" axel tube. Mine is a truck axel so it's 3.25. I'm gonna turn it down a little and slip fit it.

I used a breaker bar and loosed the nuts under the crossmember. Then later I pull the 4 bolts and removed the whole mount.

⁠​⁠@@GillettesgarageI gotchu I appreciate it, hoping I can get mine loose without breaking the stud

I plan to use it on all my racecars, my mustangs that I have aftermarket suspension. Which is 3 cars. This is the best option i have found, Because the kids literally kids that work at alignment shops, they only know how to do alignment on stock suspension where a computer tells them basically what to do. If you have aftermarket stuff like I do, you will hear that we did the best we could but couldn't get it. And you will be thinking well everything on the car is adjustable. The A- arms adjust the coil overs adjust. They just don't know how. So after wasting a couple hundred dollars at a couple of different shops, I found this kit and does work.

I put stock bearing back in I didn't plasti gauge more than one. The crank didn't have any damage. The old bearings were same size as the new and looked good. I determined that it wasn't a bearing but since I was there I changed them all anyway. I needed to buy two bars from harbor freight and bolt them together to make the span. I decided that it either the balance shaft on the drivers side head or its a flex plate or torque converter issue. Or it could be the cheap cheap headers I installed. Once I found out it wasn't the main or rod bearings. And that if it's the balancer I would need a new head. If it's the converter or flex plate I'm in no hurry to fix that. I eliminated the lifters and rockers and bearings and blown out spark plugs. I suppose it could be a blown head gasket as well but it's not missfireing anymore so I can say it's probably not that. When you pull off the valve covers look down at the timing chain tensioner too. Good luck with your search.

The 5.4 don't have a balance shaft I don't think.

That's what I did to. I never did find the tic so I'm just gonna live with it. I mean it could be the cheap ass headers I bought 🤪 idk 🤷‍♂️ it could be anything though just keep checking stuff alot of people find bad lifters.

No I moved on to different projects. My next step is to check the flex plate and I'm not in any rush to do that. With this truck I have eliminated the engine as the source. But I suggest you look at the same things I looked at because on you truck it could be one of those things.

​@@Gillettesgaragehave you figured out what was wrong?

Two things left to check. The flex plate and the timing chain tensioners. I don't get alot of time but this summer I'm gonna try to pill the timing cover and look there. I didn't get a real good look from the topside looking down. But I do hear that it will make a similar noise sometimes.

@@Gillettesgarage reason for asking is your sound is identical to mine but I've put a new flex plate and did timing chain kit about a year ago so I don't think that's my problem. If I figure it out I'll try to remember to update

Did you check the rockers and valve lash adjusters yet? All mine and my cams looked good.

I believe it goes to the alt light in the dash and that wire is in one of the dash harness plugs next to the brake booster and master cylinder. You can put the green and black wire on any switched source if you get a 500 ohm resistor. the green and black wire goes into the dash, to the idiot light which is the resistor. So that green with black wire goes from the alt to the dash light which is a switched source. Black and orange goes to the solenoid next to the battery. The white one loops back to the alt. The yellow wire I put to a switched 12 source in a separate location not connected to the black and orange wire. I a found that a separate switch 12v source for the yellow wire that i had connected to the positive terminal on the back of the alt. Helps the regulator see a difference in voltage. Honestly though the easiest thing to do and what I did on my race car, was just buy a one wire alternator with 150 amps. You literally mount that and put the one 4 awg wire from the alt to the battery and it's done. There is provisions to run a wire to the idiot light if wanted.

Hurst Pistol-Grip Quarter Stick Shifters 3162014 part number HUU-3162014 I show this shifter in ep 11

How's that?

Idk why it does that on my phone sometimes , I think its cuz it switched cameras cuz there's a close up camera and a far away camera or something.