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@@Hunterandtoyfarmer awesome, keep turning those wrenches buddy!!

@ yup

Awesome-glad the video helped! Thanks for watching!

Thanks - I’ve had that one for many years!

Thanks for watching and commenting. Yup, I installed new wheel cylinders on both rear wheels.

Yup, it’s frustrating finding many older MF parts. I helped a buddy look and about the only option was a parts rig. Too bad, but reality now days. In NE Iowa many of the AGCO dealers can only get oil filters, couple odd ball parts of lucky.

Thanks! I'm already looking forward to using it next year - hopefully it won't take me as long as that 78 ford f250 to get it on the road! ha ha

Agree, they seem to be tough old tractors!

No problem, now let’s grab some PBR and slim Jim’s and start hauling stuff!!!

Thanks for your comment! Looks like the sleeves run on a poly seal in the head.

Thanks! My grandfather’s Allis Chalmers D17 Series 3. The picker was a local purchase in Iowa and I’m really happy to have it.

@@opasvintagegarage awesome

Thanks for the kind words and info on the Long tractor. I think that’s the first time I’ve seen one! Hopefully it will be at the fair next year so I can look at it a little closer.

Thanks, I never thought of that. Looks like I can get new old stock off ebay for the sleeves and check valves cheap, thanks for you comment and watching.

@@opasvintagegarage had that problem with high pressure fuel pumps on old CUMMIMS motors then they changed to stainless

😂yup, too bad Deere isn’t affordable though. If I took a cow pie from the pasture and put a JD sticker on it, a Deere fan would give me $100 for it! 😂😂

Well, you might be right, Hooterville is the town I bought it! 😂😂

Thanks for watching, I can't wait to get it out in the field!

Hello, I do remember a connection that was a little stubborn! That was an early video and I left some of the details out. Hopefully you got it disconnected and thanks for watching!

Darn right Taco - it fit like a charm!!

Hello and thanks for watching! I like to change it up, but I don't have any more of the videos. I had a limited supply of the VHS versions.

Cast number: 92840020 - or go to annovi reveabeai (pump brand manufacturer) and you can order a replacement manifold fully loaded with components. If I could go back in time I would've ordered a bolt on replacement.

@@opasvintagegarage thanks

Was hoping to see you install the check valves and seals. Would love to see a video of how to tell if the valves are bad.

Thanks Taco!!! I'm glad the boys enjoyed the old Deere!! I need to get over to your place and do a video on that sweet chevy you bought, it would be awesome!

Yup, I still have a pail filled grease gun that still works great. I'm down to my last pail of skelly grease, so I'll retire it after that's gone. Thanks for watching!

Awesome - glad you enjoyed the video! It always makes me happy when fellas can use these promo videos! Thanks for watching and have a good day!

Awesome lineup! They are great tractors!!

@@opasvintagegarage yes , a lot of good tractors. Put many hours on most of them, but have worked all of them.

I really wish I could've dropped the subframe! You have to be patient to get it out. The brake line could be in the way if the line has been replaced and is a little wide at the bend. Also, if memory serves me, I got very oily because I needed to remove a CO sensor connection. As I stated in the beginning, this is a tough job and even worse if the subframe can't be dropped. Make sure all the connections are separated as it could be hung up on one of them. Also check to make sure the tie rod, if still attached is not hanging up. 🤣🤣🤣Sorry, but I'm still laughing about you thinking I'm trying to pull a fast one on the TH-cam community by "secretly dropping the subframe"! Why in the world would I go through all that work of dropping the subframe behind the scenes and not film it?

Awesome, thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching, I'll do my best to find that!

I like MF, but Deere makes excellent tractors. JD also supported dealers when we had a rough go of it during the 80s. Thanks for watching and commenting plus sharing your story!

Thanks for watching and commenting. I agree and try to convince folks to replace. Especially if the springs have any rust on them. Not everyone sees the benefit or wants to spend the additional $.

Hello and thanks for your comment! I did the job a while ago, but I do remember when I picked up the refurbished ford rack, it did have a check valve installed with a label over it indicating that it did have a check valve. I'm guessing the label was to prevent it from falling out during shipping; also the old rack I took out had a check valve as well. Off the top of my head, it's probably needed to ensure steady and consistent pressure in the system -smoother steering without the small lags while driving in town, - I'm swaging, but that seems right. Now that I'm typing, I think I may have checked the orfice size with a thin wire to compare and I didn't swap. That job would've been easier if I could've dropped the subframe, but oh well. I do remember the trans cooling lines were also leaking, so I had red fluid everywhere!! I think I still have some stains on my work shirt - ha ha. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!

I just looked at the video and the rack had a cap over both inlets and a card that let me know it had a check valve. Too many jobs ago!

Yeh, I agree. I was dreading dropping the subframe too, especially since I'm working on the ground on jack stands, but I simply used two bottle Jack's, 1 on each side, dropped it about 4 inches and it made it so much easier and dropping the subframe relieved my fear too. I just found out that apparently the owner before me had an engine swap done and they just did an entire cradle swap, including the rack and pinion, and I have everything on my cradle from a 1999 taurus even though it's a 2000. Which explains why I've had the hardest time ordering parts for this thing. Thanks for the reply.

I do have to add too, that I'm in Texas, just north of Houston, so salt on the roads and rust isn't that big of a deal here. Thankfully, or I would have been more hesitant, too.

Dziękuję za obejrzenie, przepraszam, ale nie mam wideo z serii 8100. Wydaje mi się, że MF przestało robić filmy promocyjne pod koniec 1990 roku. Mój polski nie jest zbyt dobry, więc pomaga mi Tłumacz Google.

Są filmy ale skrócone na YT lub płatne na dvd moja siostra mieszka w USA od 3 lat mam farme i Mf 8110, 8140 i 6140 mam też john deere 5080m ale MF lubie bardziej @@opasvintagegarage

Witam ze Stanów Zjednoczonych, mój rolniczy przyjacielu! Mam nadzieję, że uda się znaleźć odpowiedź na Twoje pytanie. Przetłumaczę, żeby inni wiedzieli, o co pytasz. Hi. I'm writing from Poland. I have an MF 2640. I see that everyone taking part in the discussion has a lot of practice, so probably some of you know whether all old models of the 2000 series (in the USA, the equivalent is the 3000 series?) have the same drive transmission? To clarify the question: did the 2625 and 2725 models have a gearbox, final drive (differential) and final drive, with the same durability? Is the difference between the 2000 series models only a matter of different engine power and tire size, or also of different drivetrain components adapted to the engine power? It's best to ask practitioners.

Not sure I understand what you are asking. What clip?

Great words of wisdom, agree!! Also, I have yet to find a better bead breaker than that one. I can't tell you how many tires that tool has worked on! Have a great day!