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Do you have information on which crossovers you used?

I've got one of these. An amp, eq and tuner also. Need it serviced or sold, southern ontario

Here's a link to the Kohler video that shows the proper location of the black rubber seal: th-cam.com/video/J3aucLqS_M0/w-d-xo.html

The problem (as acirinelli stated in a previous comment) is that the black rubber seal piece is supposed to be mounted on the white plastic clicker piece, not on the chrome top piece. You need to push the black rubber seal piece down over the clicker threads until it seats at the base of the threads, then screw on the top chrome piece. If you mount it this way the clicker will work fine. The adjustment screw in the white plastic clicker piece is solely for height adjustment and has nothing to do with whether or not it clicks. Since I had the same problem, I realized that somehow the black plastic ring worked its way up onto the chrome top piece. So, at first you would think the black seal ring belongs there when you take it apart. See a Kohler maintenance video that shows the mounting of the black seal ring.

My dream amplifiers ❤👍

My dream amplifiers 😍

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can sell me for $50 ??

I found something disconcerting in your video: I'm currently doing the same mod. on a ML26 and the GREEN wire (which is supply GND, according to the schematic and your description)) goes to the CENTER lug of the +32/0/-32V feed (in the preamp.) I checked and the center lug is actually preamp GND. In your video we can see the red and green wires crossed with the red (+32VDC) wire connected to the center lug ! Of course it can't work like that and could even damage the preamp due to the reversed polarity. I'm totally confident since I checked (and marked) the wires colors BEFORE starting the mod and removing any wires. Could you please check and clarify this point. Thanks.

Do you also work on individuals hi-fi pieces?

Always enjoy seeing something I did not know existed, 1976-1979 for me.

It's stunning, these kinds of pieces need to make it back into the field, without being McIntosh and unaffordable to 99% of us.

By the model number, I would say mid-1960s.

Year of manufacture? Not the famous Pioneer "blue dial" or later "silver face" styling here.

Hello 🇻🇳🇻🇳🇻🇳

It resembles my GAS ampzilla . Nice 👍🏻

Ok....❤❤❤.

5:39 My Windows or router doesn't list the wired connection with the 600n + LaserJet 2100. The green 100 light is on, but never flashes.

I have a early 700 with the original on and off switch that works. I want to keep it that way so I use the switch on a power strip, surge protector to turn it off on with. Much easier to buy another surge protector than doing what you are doing in this video, and cheaper.

You can hear it right away on the highs.

That amp can have a turn on surge current approaching 150 amps, so it's very hard on that switch. Also a Unibit works very well for drilling your front panel.

Cousin to my former CTF 650.

That receiver is super sweet. I bet that it sounds really good. I take it you were pushing that in your house and not in an apartment?

Hi How does the feature called compulink work on this tape deck?

wher can i buy that brass throat you have？

Pioneer is my favorite cassette deck, that's a beauty

Big difference. Thanks now I know. I believe if one goes bad both need to be replaced with new woofers from cerwin.

Nice video! I learned something new thanks to you. Going over this morning to a stereo tech repair guy I use to pick up my CT F950 after a major service 👍👍

HI. I just open AL1000 box with bi-amp banana plugs and crossover. I notice that on crossover pcb marked as W+ and W-, wires are connected + to +, - to -, to woofer, but looking at pcb trace, the negative wire from input, from amplifier, is going direct to W+, mean its reversed polarity. Is that normal to be reversed polarity on woofer or its factory mistake?

Extremely helpful, thank you!

I also don't have a DC cable, so I can't use the preamp. I want to get this cable and make one myself. How can I buy one? For reference, I live in Korea.

Super Lautsprecher, ich habe die gleichen. leider ist mir der Hochtöner kaputt gegangen, habe aber Ersatz gefunden

definitely there is a fair amount od difference.

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I never had any problem with any cards... the trick is to get an IP to it first...

Well, at least to my ears, I like the original woofer over the orange foam one. I feel the bass is a little more clear than the other one.

Nice job on this repair. I can confirm it cause I now own this amp and is outstanding.

Holy I think this is my Amplifier your working on. I bought it from you. Love the amp. Is doing amazing now that I don’t leave it on 24/7.

Why not just use the Universal HP driver.

I open up (disassemble) my pair of 2440J ...what a mistake ... NEVER NEVER OPEN THEM OR YOU LOSE ALL. Now I must re magnetize them and it cost a lot

I love Pioneer we have it way back 1984 my brother bought it in Brunei

Hello, do you know the calibration procedure for the ML26? Am restoring one and would like to check calibration but have no clue how to do it. Thanks

Thanks to your video I just ordered the new caps set from falcon acoustics. Can't to hear the difference on my set

Hi Eric, Did you ever source a substitute meter for these SA?1 Modutec meters?

I need to know the T/S parameters in order to make a fair comparison.

Commented on DYAudio post about these truly beautiful amps. Have had the silver ones and replaced the perspex meterwindows with real glass. And it is of course static electricity...

How does it sound?Neutral to warm or neutral to bright sounding?I remember that marantz cd players had to much uppermids extension?How is the bass?Deep/strong or just ok.

I just watched your video, then I watched one from Kohler and noticed a big difference. The black rubber seal is not supposed to be wrapped around the top metal part (as it is in your video and was in mine). It has to be on the threads of the plastic piece (it acts like a gapper just like the o-ring you added). If you over tighten the top part, it pushes the rubber seal off the threads and you lose your clicking ability. The rubber seal is also directional, one way it stays flipped up after sealing, and the other way it stays down.

Thanks Eric. I tried both procedures you described but it didn't improve...

Hello Eric, I am having exactly the same issues. I wanted to update my HP 4000 printer with a GB ethernet jetdirect card 625N (officially compatible) to replace my 600N which always worked perfectly. When I put on the new card , it gave an IP address but I think it was a fixed IP from the former owner; I tried to put it in the second EIO slot and it didn't work either. Since then, I have been trying to go back to my old faithful 600N. The configuration page tells me for both ports: "not handled (Code class 7F803C)" . I tried a cold reset but no difference. I am going to try several cold resets in a row as you suggest. But it really worries me that my 600N (which also had a fixed IP), is not recognised anymore. The EIO menu is not accessible anymore... Any advice ? Thanks for any help