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Thank you and all the others who share their knowledge just what I needed for my craftsman belt / disk sander model 103 22500 - had a hard time finding this information

You have the impeller on backwards I think.

The impeller looks like it is on backwards.

Nice to watch someone work who knows what there doing

This should help me as i do my brake endeavor

Wondering how does the transmission fluid goes up around the case to the oil pump or whats the way the transmission fluid goes

Really appreciate you posting this video. I just picked up a mid 70s C500-HY40 for my home mechanic shop, and I am eager to restore it and correct the years of neglect. Your video helped give me a feel for what to expect before tearing into the job.

Joe do you happen to have a parts list for the BDS-7100 i'm trying to repair one that was donated to me and i want to make sure i replace everything to do with the roller bearings?

If all your machining of shaft, taper and drilling the centre are performed without removing the work from the chuck there is no need at all to try and get the rod concentric before you start. All your features that you machine will have the same axis and be concentric. There will be no error no matter how far from central it begins.

A modern way to measure the angle of such a short and unknown taper is to take a good side view picture of the collet with your camera and then put the image into some free image manipulation software such as gimp or inkscape or others where you can measure angles between two arbitrary lines that you can draw on your image. I will leave you to look up the details of how you use the software to measure but it is rather nice and you can extend lines so that you get a good match with what you have. If you photograph an item with a reference scale you can also use the same technique to measure awkward distances.

Hey thank you for the instruction. I’m in the process of changing the bearings on my mom’s 6” grizzly sander. Thanks again

Amazing that dubro made to balance little RC props can support the weight of a 7"x 1" thick grinding wheel plus the balancing arbor.

I know this is an old video but can you explain how the clutch brake system work? I’m going to replace my clutch and brake master cylinders and the lines go into a cylinder that’s mounted behind the mast. Btw this video was great really appreciate you taking the time to make such in depth videos explaining how to work on these old things

Nice video Joe. I'm going to try making a collet for a Precise grinder I got at an auction. They seem to be pretty rare and I can't find one.

Clark c500 y100 -->thank you!!!

My serial number is Y40-244-2512. Is a C500Y40. Is this the same brake direction?

Nothing less than inspiring when watching this. May the Good Lord bless you as He sees fit

I'm having trouble with the transmission not engaging on mine all of a sudden. It'll work better when it warms up but barely move when cold. I pulled this inching valve control cover off and found that the o-rings you mention are harder than plastic, so I'm hoping that's all that's wrong. They had the cover glued on with something that was holding so tight I couldn't pry it off with my prybars, so I had to use the porta-power to break it free. Do you happen to know if that cover takes a gasket in addition to those o-rings? I'm not so much worried about oil coming out, since the o-rings will seal that, but if it gets left outside I don't want water getting in. Like you said the overhaul manual doesn't mention those o-rings nor does it mention the gasket.

This was great!! I love watching lathe work and having it explained as you go was an awesome addition. Thank you.

if you listen to youtube you'll think a lathe is a necessary bench grinder accessory...

which material you can used i mean Ms Round Bar Or Stainless steel Round Bar

I have recently acquired a Yausa Super Accudex, it was included and already mounted on the mill when I purchased it. It’s been neglected and as with any tool new to me I have a deep desire to go through it and clean it, not only to make sure it works and is accurate as intended but to familiarize myself with every workings of it “just in case it isn’t performing correctly or consistently I have an idea where to start” thanks for the video. Excellent example: If you borrow something it always gets returned in better shape than when you get it. Thanks for the video

Great job!

Pretty consistent camera work. Very easy and informative to watch. Lots of info every inch of the way.

Thank you sir.

Thank you Sir.

Were do you check the brake fluid

I appreciate this video. I have a Do-all d6 and I have a few questions about it.could I reach out to you.

I have a tos 45B can anyone please tell me type of oil for gear box?

That's a great idea. I don't do enough volume work to justify a collet setup of any kind but I've had some product ideas I'm bouncing around in the old noggin that would demand it if I wanted to do a limited production run so I'm always keeping an eye out for ideas. Tooling can get out of hand expensive if you let it.

This fuel system is identical to the one I built for my Y112 continental engine. When I bought it it had a Zenith vaporizer/mixer combo. I was led to believe that rebuilding that setup was a fool's errand and it was cheaper to buy all of the components you have in this video (aftermarket ones, not true IMPCO of course) than to buy the rebuild kit anyway, so I started from scratch and built it up this way. This system works beautifully on my engine. That fuel adjustment screw is as you stated. It allows fuel adjustment for the power circuit I believe. I had to do adjustment on mine of course because it was brand new to the engine. I'd say this fuel system about doubled the horsepower that it was putting out with that zenith carb on there. The engine wouldn't run without the choke on using that one so I think it was starving for fuel and running lean. Very good setup and dead reliable. Between the electronic ignition and this fuel system, it'll be a pretty maintenance free rig apart from oil changes.

Something to think about on that oil pan is distortion of the metal from over-torqueing. I had endless issues with some of the old iron I had leaking and that ended up being the problem. I over torqued the bolts so I basically got depressions around the bolt heads and an arc between fasteners where the oil could leak through. Stamped steel covers are prone to this. If I can't get cast replacements I hammer the existing covers back to straight and use exact factory specs and that has served me fairly well, even on things like the dreaded pushrod covers on the 300 I6. Stamped steel covers always seem to start leaking eventually but doing it this way will get them to hold for a few years anyway. Sometimes on gasketed seals you can get them to re-seal by simply torqueing to that spec again. You'll probably be okay running RTV because it'll fill the voids no problem but this is why they tell you to use those lower torque values in the service manual.

I have a C300-40 from the early '70s. It's giving me brake trouble so thank you for this video. I checked the fluid and it was low, which I topped off, but now I think I got some air in the lines because it goes right to the floor and will barely engage, for some reason in forward gear only, so I'm going to try bleeding them first before tearing into it like this. This gives me enough info to get started. I'm suspicious I might have one or both wheel cylinders bad though, or maybe something going on with the transmission lockout. Things I've already fixed on this machine: 1. Full teardown and rebuild of the lift cylinder, fabricated up a new steering cylinder bushing out of a hunk of aluminum I had in the scrap pile, 3. New distributor/conversion to electronic ignition, 4. Modernized the LPG fuel system by converting to an early '90s Impco vaporizer and throttle body setup, 5. Installed an actual canister air cleaner on the engine off of a lawnmower application, 6. Rebuilt the wiring harness from scratch because the insulation was all but gone on the original wires. It was all hacked to pieces anyway and a bunch of stuff was wired wrong, like they had the hour meter wired straight to the battery (so no idea how many actual hours are on the machine). Still left to do is that the tilt cylinders creep pretty bad so those need attention, this brake issue now and the bad distributor overheated the engine so it needs a new head gasket. The engine is tired but it still runs pretty good otherwise. If I can get it to stop drinking water I should be in good shape.

So when people "redesign" the balance design of a Ford model A engine, does the performance and response of the engine go up or stay the same?

Those filaments are in my forklift too everywhere but it lived in a sawmill

Just bought one and it'll be coming apart today this video will help tremendously. Thanks for making the video it's really going to help out!

Thanks for the video. Can you provide any advice or insight of how to dislodge the wheel bearing housing and drum from the transmission housing after removing the bolts? I have tried to pry, push etc but it doesn't want to loosen.

Great job. 👍 Nice Engine. Just bought one of these at an auction. No tags. Just a casting number on the right lower side of the block. Can’t figure out what exact model it is. They’re nice running engines. Just tearing into mine now. Think I’ll use it as a log splitter.

Thanks this is going to help on my project. Nice work.👍

I've been getting calls asking if I will do this job for others. Sorry, no.

I've been getting calls asking if I will do this job for others. Sorry, no.

I have the same machine, it has been parked for about 3 years with the parking brake on. I went to move it and it seems as if the parking brake doesn't release. The actual lever moves but I think the pads aren't releasing. Any ideas how to release them?

Nice 👍

This worked perfectly. Thank You!!

Thank you. I thought I had to remove the shifter. I have to say, mine (after-market) wasn't as easy. I soaked it in hot water and lubed it. I still ripped it a little.

Do you know where I can get the brass bolt from the brake line to the piston?

Hello, good morning. I have a Clark C500 and 50, I am from Argentina. I need information on a specific part that I am missing. I would like to know if it can be manufactured.

Hello good sir, I was wondering if you could elaborate a little about the adjusters. The lift I’m working on, when disassembled the adjusters were loose. Did not have the pin on the locking but, rather just some punch marks. They worked loose, and was wondering if there were torque specs listed in the manual? Or any specific instructions. Thank you and happy new year!

I’m attempting to pull the engine on this exact model forklift. What’s the secret of getting it out? I have all the bolts around the transmission flange out and it doesn’t have any hardware holding it up on the rear. I know there’s suppose to be a long bolt and washer, however mine is missing. I’ve got the trans supported with a 2x4 between the bottom and the welded in cross member of the lift. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge via TH-cam. I’m doing brakes on my Clark C300 and didn’t anticipate a giant puddle of oil when I removed the hub assembly. Could you fill me in on the oil type that I should be replacing this with.