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Just a heads up, due to poor quality in castings of the heads there is metal fragments in the coolant in any and all 1.5L bronco sports on the road. To fix this you need to perform a chemical flush, radiator/thermostat and hose removal/flush, then replace the water pump. Failure to follow those steps leads to never ending water pump replacements.

I have a couple of questions how do you make injector sizes like the nozzle and what else is the difference lets say like a 175/30

There's ZERO reason for his inquiry.. My .02 is that he's updating his notes, just in case there's some sorta shenanigans down the road. I.E If you blew your shit up, replaced the batteries and pretended it was all original and the only that has ever occured since his hands touched it was "Nothing".. And the numbers on the batteries would confirm this to him

Great video. Thanks for all of the info and explanations! Question - I have a 16 f250 112k miles w/ original cp4. Trying to decide whether to put one of these kits on vs getting a whole new cp4/dcr pump installed. I have read that factory cp4 pumps generally go out soon after 100k miles. Any recommendation ?

Wat would cause extreme pressure we're the oil is being deluted with fuel and dumping out the CCV valve into air filter tube to turbo?

Great video and thanks for showing everything. I'll be doing my wife's explorer in the spring as well. What did you use to scan the explorer?

My 2010 F250 6.4 passed 400k last year and is still almost like new. They are strong trucks. People mistreat them becasue they want to soup them up; they are very fast. This is why they have a bad rep. Dumb teens blow them up trying to race them or trying to get more horsepower. Treated right, they are great and powerful trucks.

Thanks and next time maybe a part #number would be so much more helpful and thank you!!

Oil separator is important. I’m interested in this Oil Bypass, I’m going to research further.

Great video and I thank you for your time. It happens to all of us. It is why I love being a diesel tech. I recently purchased a ford service truck and I never owned a ford however I am a Navistar’s technician so it helps me on the side of the engine. But everything is so freaking tight 😅. God bless

time to seek another video as this one went from part 5 with no front cover on it, to part 6 where it starts with the front cover already on it. so no showing the installation of the low pressure oil pump or anything. Sorry, but you skipped a major step, and that means this entire series is a failure.

Nobody mentions ball joints on the 3-9 position. You're 100 percent correct, I just did an inspection yesterday, 3-9 moves badly, ball joint is the cause. 👍

hey, just throwing this out there, the owners manual only shows people that they can lift from the pinch weld in 4 specific locations so some people might have a problem getting the tires off and putting it on 4 jack stands because you cant place the jack stand where you have the jack. unless you disregard the owners manual, and at that point you can try and jack from something you think is solid, the badlands has a skid plate, really it would be nice if somebody that had the experience could says something about solid places to jack from, because the parts department, the service department, the owners manual don't help you. so it leave's people trying to lift this vehical from the tow hooks, hitch, control arms, the joke isn't lost on me "if you don't know how to take of the tire then XYZ" but at the same time there is a reason people dont try, its because the industry says check the owners manual and that only helps you use the 4 pinch weld locations, and its not just ford. seriously though you can break the pumpkin on some vehicals, or even bend the rear axle. people just want to know a little more.

2 bolts..? Thats on you buddy

Where did you put thatcatch can, and type of catchcan is that one i have that problem on my ecoboost

Use HHC nipple cups and orings top notch product

Why not show how you removed things as you went along?

I'm curious to hear if they have lasted. I saw another video where the guy replaced them twice in just a few years. The second set only lasted 6 months.

Never seen any other video that explains assembly and disassembly so perfectly excellent job I also own a 6.0 dually and I have many spare injectors I want to rebuild a set and put them in I have two cylinders misfiring thank you for such a perfect video

Those damn injector solenoid C-clips are impossible to remove!!!😅 I just worked on a high pressure oil system on a 6.0 for the first time the other day. Extended crank cold, no start hot. It was the o rings on the check valve that goes on the stand pipe, an o ring on one of the injector solenoids where the nipple goes in, and one of the nipple ball joint o rings. Essentially the same job you did here. Starts like a brand new truck now.

Glad I am not the only one… I just did mine last week. X2 bolts came out just fine. The middle one rounded off. Ended up having to use a precision hack saw and cut the head off all while making sure not to chop the harness below. I saw many videos stating it’s a quick job 3hours tops. Ended up taking me from noon to 7pm including a trip to ford to get 3 new bolts. What a fiasco.

We have a 2023 Big Bend and noticed a loss of heat this week. I checked the coolant level and it was basically empty. I refilled and set an appointment at the dealer for next week. Do they have an updated water pump as this is a common issue.

Did you forget the front gasket that goes on the flex down pipe ? There should be one gasket installed towards the front of the car, the other one towards the rear of the suv doesn’t get a gasket. I did not see you install a gasket in the front.

Great video! I think my 2017 Ford Explorer Platinum has the same issue on driver seat.

What a retarded engine design. Take half the motor apart to fix an o ring. There is so much to go wrong on a 6.0.

I have a 2004 6.0 that has a No Start-Hot Start problem. With your help and others I believe I understand the path forward for where to start testing. Thanks, I really appreciate that you have taken the time to help others out.

Thank you for making this video! Having watched this helped make the job of replacing my seat element much easier. Replacing this element repaired my no heat condition from the seat cushion and seat back cushion.

do you have to drain the coolant?

What if it just works for a minute then goes off? When i start the car again, i can turn it on but works again for a minute then stops. No error on the screen. What could that be?....

I didn’t break my snap ring lol

Great job man. Your good at this. I've seen others comment that your a lot like diesel tech ron. That's awesome! Because I'm gonna need you!! I have 2 6.0's!! And a duramax. I love my 6.0's too brother and you have DEFENITELY helped me along with fixing em. Preciate cha.🤟

This video is great, such a time saver. Didn't think I was going to be able to get that retaining plate off but with enough fiddle fucking around with it I got it. Thank you so much!

i replaced all what you did and after fully warmed up i get no start at 260 psi high pressure oil and when cooled down it starts right up any ideals

Detailed review👍Сan you please advise the parameters of your stretchy belt? We want to order one for our bronco sport 2021 1.5L big bend, but we can't figure out exactly which one we need because the data on the old belt was erased.

Hey Chris, I just saw this video and subscribed to your channel. I have a 2005 6.0 and my issue is that it’s very hard to start when the temperature outside is below 40 degrees. When I’m trying to start it, it blows white smoke out of the exhaust and sometimes it starts draining the battery down to where I have to put the charger/booster on it. Once it starts and I let it run for a while to warm up it runs fine. But if I drive it without letting it warm up, it’s feels sluggish and I can feel it skipping or like hesitation when I’m accelerating. I was thinking that maybe the starting issue when it’s cold could be the glow plugs and the skipping/hesitation could be coming from a bad injector or possibly several injectors. What’s your thoughts on all of this? I used to be a subscriber to Diesel Tech Ron’s channel but sadly he passed away in a car accident several years ago, so I’ve just been randomly watching different videos until I came across yours. Thanks in advance!!

thanks for this. greatly appreicate you shareing

Link for that tool man

which diagnostic software are you using in this video? My handheld scanner does not show any code, and my rear passenger heated seat is not working. thanks

Thank you

6.0 powerstroke??

Using FORscan and upgrading my 150 to a 250 amp alternator and replacing the standard starter battery to dual AGM H8's, my mechanic states that he needs the 'serial number' of each battery . Is this the case? Isn't 'AGM H8' sufficient for this?

Is the resistance dropping because it’s cooling off maybe? Resistance goes up in wiring as they get hotter. Just guessing though, that’s all i got.