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I suppose it depends on what you're working on - so much of what makes a wrench useful or not is access - thickness, angle of approach, length etc. I work on a variety of family cars from Toyota, Honda, Mazda, vintage BMW's, Mini and Volvo, and each presents a different thought process when it comes to design and ease of serviceability. That's why I have a dang wrench-drawer! 😉

It is not my intention to lead you into expensive decisions... ...but it's not surprising either... ;)

lol - I'm sure something could be arranged in the magnetic side trays... ;)

This was made when they announced it, and a lot of guys like me are/were wondering "Is this worth upgrading?" - this video is for them. (Mine is here in the next week or so, so there will be a vid)

I'm not sure, but they're very beefy - I had always been a little distrustful of single-post stands, but these are great.

Did you mean "why I started comparing them"? If that was what you meant, it's because they are called the same thing, and they are very different pliers. The Icon wasn't out then. I've purchased it, and used it during my recent move since the Knipex pair was at the new house, and the Icon pair did just fine when several square-drive screws were stripped while trying to take down a bunk bed.

Overall I agree with you, especially when it comes to filling up a whole box (discussed in my "Are Tools an Investment?" vid: th-cam.com/video/zZN2Ks98oSA/w-d-xo.html)

I'm not sure I agree with dodgy, but I'm definitely low-budget. :)

I haven't tried Fujiya yet, but the Ko-ken stuff I have is outstanding. I don't know why Icon chose the 12" size first - I use my 7" Knipex pair far more often.

I'm sure they do - PN? Price?

@@themessygarage 209RFSM price $201.30 you have 2 sets one without low profile ratchet and one with

I have started to try to do that - the transcribe tip is a great one. I really appreciate the feedback!

Fair. I cut up a cast iron tub in our "new" house recently. The Hercules was a beast with a diamond blade, but the size of the Milwaukee helped me get into tighter spots. I'll post that stuff (though it's a bit...raw), but the net is I'm very glad to have both.

I'd put the weight on it and see how it goes. It shouldn't hurt the pad.

Sorry - I probably should have put the question I was responding to - lol. I think they're both excellent sockets. The Z-series are more expensive, but shorter and feel extremely heavy-duty. I don't think the "regular" Ko-ken set is "cheap" as in low-quality, but they have more mass to work with. The Z comes with a nice rail also. :)

You need the nut grip, surface drive, and 12 point. Then semi deep and deep. Then 1/4 and 1/2” drive. Then all that in impact. Don’t forget the swivels. It gets expensive real fast.

@@ToolsMethodsPhilosophies Honestly, I don't have close to all of that, and as just a DIY'er (though a pretty active one) I don't think I need it. I have a lot of sockets because I'm crazy, but I could do just fine with my core set - standard 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" in chrome, 3/8" long (all 6-point) and a regular set of 1/2" impact sockets in standard and long. I've gone affordable on extensions and swivels for the most part, and that kit has been great for me. If I were a working pro, I'd probably feel different.

@@themessygarage I agree as a fellow DIYer and I was just joking. Nut grip koken sockets are awesome and make some work easier. Just buy a common one for $10 to test yourself

Personally, I think a split beam is less likely to encourage you to over-torque. The Icon torque wrenches are testing out to be pretty great - check out the Tools Tested channel.

The video is supposed to be about why I'm not on the hype train and buying one. The point is a lot of people wind up buying something because it's "NEW!" or "IMPROVED!" and not because they need it. The personal experience in the video was my journey down that exact road: everybody made so much about the big gun (2767 High Torque) and how it was the answer for almost everything. So I bought it. Ultimately the Mid Torque is better in every way for what I do. I didn't *need* the extra power of the High Torque, and I'm incredibly glad I don't have to deal with the weight of that tool. So this time around I thought sharing that most of DIY'er-world can live happily without the 2967 High Torque might help some save a few bucks and probably have a better tool (a Mid-torque that does all the jobs and is a smaller, more versatile and lighter package). Sorry the video didn't work for you. :(

It's pretty well-known as the Gen 2 Milwaukee FUEL High Torque, though I should have made that more explicitly clear.

I'm getting the 1/2". The early evals I've seen say the 3/8" has slightly more grump, but I want access to big sockets for things like hub huts, etc. without using an adapter.

@@themessygarage sounds good 👍

Well, I am back after a month of T&E. I ordered the LN47ACF and have found the slip-joint capability to be extremely useful. I tried to replace my 5" Cobras with one of the 4" Snap-Ons, but I don't think that will last. I barely use the 196ACF because they lack the slip-joint feature and I use the cutters on the Klein strippers. I have stuck with using my Fujiya pliers wrench on regulators and some valve keys because they cover a full range of sizes if volume permits. I also acquired a couple of DeWitt, Nebraska Eagle Grips after learning that they're drying up. I hope to get a full set before they're gone. I know they're also being made for and sold through Snap-On, but they're $100 from them. Lastly, to those who spend a lot of time on long bolts from condenser fan motors, blower motors, compressor bolts, and any other super long bolts, get the Klein Pass-through Socket Set. $75 at Lowe's and I don't have to waste time trying to cut a bolt or size an adjustable wrench in a place I can't see behind a compressor and up against the inner wall of a unit.

Thanks for a really interesting comment! I went 1/2" to give me a single set of impact sockets and to have the range go up to the size for wheel hubs/etc. The Stubby is so short that the additional length of the 1/2" sockets hasn't been a problem.

@@themessygarage I have both sets of impacts, but the 3/8 gets into some tighter spots especially while using wobble sockets. The 1/2 sockets and extentions are just too bulky at times to use in those pesky transverse engine bays. I do use the 3/8 to 1/2 adapter at times which does give the 3/8 more beans. I'm getting both the 3/8 and 1/2 stubby's this time. You just can't beat the versatility of the stubby's torpedo style 🔋 breakdown to get into some crazy places 👍🏻

@@johnny4713ify There are so many low-profile options for impacts that along with the shortness of the Stubby I just can't see two sets. But if you have the room and the tools, it's all good...

@@themessygarage Maybe for a DIYer, a 3/8 or 1/2 inch Stubby would serve them well. As for myself, I find that I need every bit of clearance possible, so having both options is a must. For example, I was working on a 1996 OBS F150 that needed the water pump and fan clutch removed. I used several fan clutch wrenches to remove the fastener, but no dice. It was so seized that I was literally stripping the fastener. I ended up cutting off the fan clutch and just leaving behind the fastener for easier access to remove. I tried using my 3/8 stubby, but the additional adapter length, while using the larger socket, prevented me from zipping it off. If I had the 1/2 version, I would have had just enough clearance to at least bust it loose. Whoever replaced it in the past used a crazy amount of Loctite, so a long breaker bar and a bit of heat popped it loose. And yes, I do own low-profile Astros and Capri sockets in both 3/8 and 1/2, but in that application, it wouldn't matter because they don't make them that large unless custom-ordered. For me, the 3/8 version has served me well, but having a 1/2 in the mix is well worth the investment.

You'll like 'em - they make great stuff!

Then add the longer warranty. Their logic is that if something is wrong from the factory it will show up quickly, and they can save money by only covering that by default. If you want longer, their warranty isn't crazy money.

@@victorhoyt4352 how much cheaper?

​@@ToolsMethodsPhilosophiesI got the 3/8" drive 8-19mm deep and shallow set from tone from Amazon Japan for less than the price of just the koken shallow 3/8" 8-19mm set. So, I'd say about 30% to 40% less than the koken depending where you get them. They are beautiful sockets too. They have a beautiful finish, very nice broaching, and are just very nice, high quality sockets. To me, they look identical to the koken set. Not the koken zeal series, but the regular koken series. I would wait for Amazon Japan to get them back in stock because they are much much cheaper than the other sellers who currently have them for sale right now on Amazon. I believe I got the complete set for just under $100, but again, that was from Amazon Japan, and they are currently out of stock from Amazon Japan right now.

I think TONE and DeenJ both have contracts through Koken, but may have a slightly lower QC standard

I don't - mine came with some extras, so I'd guess they're in HF's parts catalog. Go to the bottom of their website and you'll see a parts list PDF to download and a number to call (1-800-444-335). A quick search shows part number 602590 as a carbon brush set, but I'd confirm when you call.

Almost identical (sorry for the long-delayed reply!)

@@themessygarage all good already got a set! Thanks

You're not wrong. That's kinda the point of the video.

Really appreciate the comment, and thanks for watching!

Believe it or not just a regular Mazda3. I'm talking about getting to the center spot so I can get both wheels in the air at the same time. I do have aftermarket shocks in the car, so maybe it sits a little more on the springs and is a bit lower? In any case, I'm very happy to have it. The funniest part is how much less noisy and rattly it is than any of my jacks.

I legit haven't even thought about it. I'm packing to move, so won't be able to check for a while, but my guess would be it's in the settings gear that's on pretty much every screen (if there is a speaker).

If you mean the overhead light, it's the Icon light bar. I made a video about my install of it: th-cam.com/video/qd82p5Yp4BY/w-d-xo.html

Well... yeah... ;)

That's an awesome deal on these!

Got these from amazon for $64. These are top notch extensions, well made

It would be...sketchy. The thing is legit heavy and tall enough that I'd worry about tipping. The way it's packaged wouldn't love steep angles, either. I've seen some folks do some things on TH-cam, but a truck with a ramp is really the way to go, or a really low trailer. And still have a buddy to help... ;) My $0.02. Good luck!

I've really enjoyed using them!

Assembling in the drawer is a great idea...

They're made by Ares - nice stuff!