วีดีโอ

Have to start to get the console up and running properly, and after that i will probable do a recap on a channel or two to see what different it makes. The Jade's dont run as hot as many other consoles, so it seems to they are a lot more friendly to the caps over time.

Ha ha, your so right - stairs and mixing consoles are note the best combination.🤣🤣 Love the GL serie, they where such a great work horse for live shows back in the days. Great for studios today👍

Aha, that makes sense.👍

Great, it seems like the term is universal - Caiman Clips sounds amazing!👍

Thanks Joey, it's such a strange and difficult instrument to play, but totally amazing at the same time. 😀

Yeah - always celebrate the small (and big) victories!🥳👍

Thanks for your earlier tips about flux - that really made the difference this time. So great to keep learning!❤

@@moneeo Your very welcome. It is great to learn something new, I love that and we can all learn from each other. Take care

Yeah the GL is probably not to bad as it is!👍 Ha ha, the Soundcraft seems to be another story - most pots have not been touched in 15 years or so, and is a bit stuck 🤣🤣

Thanks, such a fun project and were happy to share.😀 Yeah, that could be something, these bells would work great for the intro.👍

Yeah it's sad when thinking about it. How is the condition of your Soundcraft Studio today?

That is very tempting...

Dont worry, were not loosing focus here.😀 We just feel it's sad to see things go away in the trash, that could be of use for some people. Hmm, lets see what we decide to do...🤔

Thanks - this will be a lot of fun to keep working on. Stay tuned!🙏

Yeah, i have been getting seconds thoughts before i change the pots. Your right, the switches ARE also making crackles so that could be the first thing to try out easy. Thanks for the Deoxit tips, thats a good start. I am thinking of trying Deoxit F5 on the pots as a first step. Could that be worth trying? I never used an osc, but this could be the perfect time to get to learn how to use one. Is there anything special feature i need to look out for when buying my first osc?

I believe there will be coming more moments like this further down this process ha ha🤣🤣🤣

Ha ha, i guess you have been carrying many many many JADE's in to your workshop over the years.😀👍 Is there a good way to do it or is every move a struggle and just a matter of muscles🤣🤣

Thanks, getting closer step by step.👍

This is the one i found. It has three different lenses to combine and a small LED light that could have been a little bit stronger IMO. It was around 33 $/€ and pretty OK quality. I takes some time to get used to. in the beginning its easy to get feeling of sea sick, but it's great when you have getting used to it. www.velleman.eu/products/view/?id=387484

@@moneeo Thanks so much

Aha, so i could have used blue-tac to to hold the battery - that is so clever, thanks for the tip!👍

Excellent, thats great ot know!👍

Aha, that great - thanks!👍

Thanks.👍 Have never used solder mask before, is that to protect the wire from oxide? Flux is new to me, but it seems like it could help get the solder to connect a lot better, right?

@@moneeo Yeah the solder mask protects the wire and also protects shorts if anything comes in contact with the wire. Get UV mask, spread it on and cure it with a UV lamp ( pretty cheap to buy the mask and a UV lamp). Flux will help with flowing the solder to the pads ( solder points on the PCB )Some good flux would be Amtech 559 comes in a syringe and easy to apply. Get some IPA ( Isopropol alcohol ) and a toothbrush to clean away the flux residue with some cotton buds and lint free tissue paper👊

Thanks, it feels great to learn and improve for every step in the process.👍

great story, our analog sweeties really need this kind of love!❤ What kind of desk was it?

@@moneeo allen and heath gl4000 dual use. its gone already, i rescued it from a dumpster at a church in gary indiana, looking for my next project.

@@bigdaddy-fk5bi Wow, that's a great dumpster rescue - nice!👍

@@moneeo buddy thats my 3rd console rescue.

@@bigdaddy-fk5bi ❤

Ha ha, at least not until they have been properly calibrated. They are all over the place right now 🤣

That is sooooo true and we ordered a new battery as soon as we found out. Will change it in the next videos and take care of battery nr two. 😀 We are truly grateful that you guys watching our videos, chiming in when you notice things that we might have missed. 👍

@@moneeo I use these to replace batteries in vintage computers. But disable the charging. Sometimes this requires cutting a trace. If it is not already eaten away 🫣🪓

@@blenderbuch Ha ha, in that case a destroyed trace could actually be a benefit. 🤣🤣

I'm the one mixing up the numbers on the battery in the video, sorry for that.😀 The correct number is 2400 mAh.

Yeah, i have no idea, but there must have been some reason...🤔

That's standard practice for audio gear. A lot of equipment like synthesizers or effect units have batteries soldered to the pcb. It's usually easy to desolder and replace them, for any studio technician. A soldering iron used to belong in any studio.

@@UseYourBrain930 Any idea of what could be the benefit, other than that it's easier in manufacturing to solder straight on to the PCB than to a battery holder?

I also thought of using alcohol to clean things up, but someone told me it could destroy the thin layer of coating on the PCB. Distilled water sounds like a great idea that we will use for the further process - thanks for the tips!👍

You use baking soda for acid containing batteries and white vinegar for alkaline batteries, the aim is to neutralise the opposite chemical deposits. You should never leave the mix on too long or it can lift traces on the board.

​@@moneeoNot sure why someone told you that? IPA is industry standard to clean PCBs. First use your neutaliser to remove battery deposits, then IPA or tap water to clean depending on how dirty, then distilled water to rinse. To clean up flux after solder work use IPA and then rinse with distilled if needed

That is some true love for the technology from back then!❤️

we did some more research on it, and yes it is attatched to another PCB, that holds the pots, and we need to get em both out.

That is a truly great advice that we will do for the rest of the project - thanks!👍 Is it a good idea to connect the ground of the ESD wrist strap/mat to the ground of the JADE?

​@@moneeoYes. As long as your ground source is a solid one. I find the wrist strap gets in the way sometimes. You may find this funny but, I usually remove the strap from the wire (it just snaps off) and just insert the end of the wire inside my pants at my waste. Just make sure the the wire contacts flesh. Et voilà! You are grounded and hands free!😎

You can get an antistatic matt connect it to the ground system and buy heel straps for your feet.. that way the cable wont get in the way which it always does!. Just remember to tuck the ground strip into your socks :P

@@sylvaind9086 Sounds great, will try a solution for the next step - keep an eye on upcoming videos!👍

@@projekct_amk Heel strap sounds like a great solution - thanks for the tips!👍

I have a Soundtracs Solitaire and did exactly this...Also advisable to keep the mixer turned on for long enough to get a lasting charge into the battery...

That advice is a good solution to not have to stress the circuit board more than necessary.👍 But since the second battery seems to have pretty much battery acid leaking, i got the advice (from a soundtracs Service technician) to take the PCB out, just make sure there are no damaged traces on the PCB.

Great tips Martin, since it has been sitting almost untouched for 2 years before we bought it, i believe there can be oter benefits as well to keep it running for some time.👍

Great, we just bought both of em and will give em a try!👍

it sounds a bit scary to pull out and clean the legs of the IC's. We could get in to a REAL problem if one of them broke. 😳

In that case. Make a foundation out of a mat or similar flat item that will support the board. Use 2 or 3 fingers across the top of the ice and gently push. It will settle in and ensure good connection. What happens is as the board/chips heat and cool they slowly “walk” out of the socket. Gentle and methodical

It sounds scary to remove the IC's, since they been sitting there for so long and are really fragile. It sounds like they could easily be damaged when removing them...

@@moneeo the ICs are more robust than you think, but, devices of that era are very sensitive to static electric discharge, so invest in an anti-static wristband and an anti-static mat for the top of that flight case you are soldering on, because some of the ICs used in audio equipment from that era are getting expensive (they are becoming hard to find). BTW that board you pulled is basically a computer ;-)

@@StuartTaylorEsquire That sounds great, could be a future project to take care off.👍

Recapping is on the todo list for the future. I believe it will take some time since there seems to be aprox 48 electrolyts per channel...😳 This project is one step at a time, and they are probable baby steps since everything takes so much longer time the first time we do it. 😀 Thanks for you encouragement, we will keep filming!👍

@@moneeo remember to add bypass caps around the audio electrolitics and, and decoupling caps for the rails of your opamps. It will be a lot 😅. On your mute board there is like 10 or more wlectrolitics to be changed.

@@moneeo For that old console a PSU recap is a must and i´ll do it asap, also power distribution caps inside the console. A failure on a channel strip is a pain but nothing serious, a failure of the PSU or the power distribution can be a disaster for the whole console! Also 30 years ago there was not that much noise as now at electric grid caused by switching power supplies from TV, laptops, etc... so an iec connector emi filter chassis mount for the PSU certainly will not hurt, if the PSU does not have it... Have fun and good luck!

@@jplexstudios This is the first time i have heard of "bypass caps around the audio electrolitics and, and decoupling caps for the rails of your opamps" - could you tell me a bit more about what that is good for?

@@nomoimusic3096 We are thinking about getting a new Bluedog PSU and have the old one as a spare.

Whaaaattt - that sounds a bit to brave for us!😀

@@moneeo just give it a try, not on your best equipment if you don't feel brave enough😁.

Senior EE here. It's fine but distilled water is cheap enough to use entirely. A grounded ESD mat and wriststrap is a good idea since mosfets and older digital chips don't handle ESD very well.

I worked for GEC Marconi in Edinburgh as a Milspec repair specialist for RAF Nimrod flight control systems (Avionics) it was standard procedure to wash the boards to remove the flux and the horrible antivibration covering they painted them with. Basically it was a sink, a neutral soap solution and a nailbrush. Once cleaned they where placed in a drying cupboard for a few hours. I would suggest do a small one first get your courage up but you'll be fine.

It's only fine if there are no mechanical components like potentiometers and carbon tracks. Ultrasonic cleaner is the prefered device for this type of job and only distilled water. However the affected arrea should be NEUTRALIZED no matter what and that has nothing to do with cleaning really.

You are so right Mike, we really apreciate the advice from you who are more experienced in doing this service. I will have to check the back panel - that seems like the correct way to reach these PCB's. Thanks for the tips mate!🙏❤

You are so spot on - these batteries are not rechargeable. Thanks for making us aware of that - new (rechargeable) batteries are now ordered!🙏❤

But if you leave unpowered for any time they start to leak, at least if they are away on leads they can leak elsewhere and not destroy the PCBs

Yeah we thought about that for the second battery. But that one seems even more damage, so we got advice to try to get the PCB out just to have a look at it and make sure the traces and components next is ok.

@@moneeo Nice one. You guys rock!!! Since the battery on the center section is upside-down, I think any leakage would drip down and not affect the pcb as much as the other battery does. The traces are a little fragile and replacing caps is daunting. The legs of the caps are all bent outwards ( for keeping them in place for soldering ). The legs can be cut directly underneath the cap, then you can either splice the cap onto the old legs or heat them from the topside and remove the legs ( pins) from underneath with tweezers. Just be gentle and use some flux.

@@Joey-rp5vg Yes, hopefully gravity have saved the board from some of the battery acid.👍

Ha ha, tack!❤🙏

Yeah your right - we can see now that these are collet knobs! Now we just need to fix a tool to loosen those screws.👍

Hi, also: If the collet nut is above the shaft a wide blade screwdriver will work, if the shaft protrudes above the collet nut you need the special collet wrench, (you can make one, the shaft is probably 6mm). Mentor is a manufacturer of collet knobs i Europe and they sell the tools. ALSO, ALSO: make sure you hold the knob securely when spinning the collet nut use a pair of pliers with a rag so you don't mar the knob. This is important because if you spin the collet nut without holding it you can destroy the pot and possibly the traces on the PC board holding it. I've done it, not pretty. Good luck!

Will give it another try!👍

Aah, yes ofcourse - it could be caps with the screw on top, i did not evne think about that. I will check it out - thanks for the tip! Yes, there is one more battery that has been taking care of by now. There will be a longer video about our battery adventures as soon as they are done. Sounds like a great project with the solitaire, but i guess it's a massive job if the PCB have been damaged by the acid. Hope you manage to get it fixed - it's a beautiful desk!👍