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Do you have the part number for the crown hub seal

Did you figure out what it is? It's to set preload/spring depth; standard practice on forks as far as I'm aware.

Too much talking.

Fantastic video - though it was produced some time ago, it's still among the best I've found on TH-cam. I'm preparing to do the clutch on my '04 K12GT and am watching as many videos and reading as many forum posts about the job as I can, before diving in. Many thanks for this one! At around 4:55 in the video we get our first glimpse of the custom machined tool you use at around 8:15 to set the tranny input seal at the right depth. Anyone know if the drawing(s) for that tool are available anywhere? I can probably bribe my machinist buddy to turn it on his lathe for me...

I am confused by the calculations. If your gap is .33 and you need .05 shouldn't the shim thickness be determined by taking the free-play .33 less the desired free-play .05 = .28 shim thickness? Free-play of .33 less the shim thickness of .28 leaves the desired free-play of .05.

Thank you for taking time to put this together and help out a lot of riders! Would engine degreaser be a better alternative to brake cleaner/carb cleaner to degrease the part? Also, the spacing of the crown gear bearing creates the critical gap between the helical pinion gear and crown. Without the spacers, they would push themselves apart until there was far too little contact area. Thanks to your video, I was able to replace the bearings and seals in my R1100RT final drive, which I would have definitely struggled with without this knowledge. This saved me HUNDREDS of dollars. Hats off to you! :oD

I have a b m w k1200rs motorcycle and it has a problem which is that the bike when it works gives out thick black smoke and is unstable. Please help and advise how to fix the problem step by step

Can u drill hole with slave cylinder installed

just cut a small section out the gasket at the bottom or form a small channel with a wood chisel on the mating face

Why doing you not grease on the cardanas ring

Great job, very nice old school, buddy, I loved watching.

There is some confusion on my part as to the correct part number for the ring which was broken. Can you provide the correct part number? Thanks.

I have 2005 k1200lt and my handlebar starts wobbling when I get my hands off at low speed and gets worse if I don’t grab them back. Also I realize that movement when I hit the front brake. Sound and feel like forks move back a little . Do you think damper is the reason? I haven’t checked it yet but I will. Thanks

Hello from Germany the home of the BMWs! If you are interested in a workshop how to repair the final drive unit of an older BMW bike - for instance the R 60/6 or R 90/6, we invite you for a visit: @ Not to forget: Respect for your excellent work.

A great video, thank you so much for this.

I have this exact same stand. Bar is straight and everything works like it should.

Great job and video!

Where cam I find the copper tube that goes into the drilled hole?

I've been riding BMW's for 44 years. BMW used to be, in my opinion, the finest made motorcycles built. It seems now that they are over engineered and BMW is no longer loyal to their customers. Ted Porter's beemer shop is having manufactured some of the parts that BMW no longer sells like the output shaft and other things and they are reasonably priced (for parts that go on a BMW). Other wise, I would be riding a Japanese bike.

thanks for the video. do you think this is almost the same for a k1200rs/gt? i need to replace my slave

Thank you for an excellent video. Your workshop seems like a place to hang out, shame im in Ireland.

✌🏿😜 🏁 🏍️ 🏁 🏍️ 🏁 🏍️ 🏁 🏍️✌🏿😜

Great vid but I need to replace the pinion gear bearings.

Great, informative video. Just wondering- How did you determine that you put too much preload in? Anything that indicated this? Just wondering, as I have my final drive apart and am replacing the crown wheel bearing on my '99 R1100GS @ 54,000 miles. I wish to use this technique to determine shim thickness.

What diameter drill bit??

The problem is that people like you expect to get a $200 tool for $40. I bought one yesterday and everything is good with it. The rod is perfectly straight and the bearings are perfect. If you feel you need a wheel and tire balanced with only a few gram variance, you're not going to get it. I guarantee mine will balance a tire and wheel within a 1/4 ounce but I only bought it to check mine before I use beads, which are infinitely better anyway Also, the weights are steel. Lead is also a metal.

All you guy sound like cheap tards this is a get buy trick . That's it

Did this job back in 2013 and put about 26,000 mile and I'm now getting slop when I checked it. The tire moves and you can feel the click as I call it (slop movement from left to right, checked at the mid point of the tire... Left hand mid tire to right hand mid tire) Feels like Shim was to small or something has moved inside the drive now. play is about a few thousands now (.001 to .003) Will put on lift and drain and rip down to recheck its still good.. Im getting a bit of fish tail at times it feel like.

Very nicely done video. Thank You.

Question; I need to take my swingarm and trans off my '01 K1200LT to change the rear main seal and clutch. Do I need to remove the final drive off the swingarm just to remove the swingarm? Or can I remove the swingarm with the final drive still attached to it?

This was just a test to see how the camera would do on the left handle bar as I was looking for spots with the best view. The problem I found is that with all the plastic on this bike. Its really hard to find any place to mount a camera. Every part on this bike vibrates and makes for crappie camera times... I ended up putting my cam away as the cam I have was only good for 25 mins of time before going dead. Lots of loss time on so many rides..

Ty, Nice video, I would recommend a bearing heater instead of the oven...check McMaster-Carr for that, After 30 years I retired from the heavy Machine Service field about 5 years ago, I use kerosene to clean parts also, I like that it leaves a light coating of oil and does not dry out the part and prevents rust.... I do recommend using a lint free towel like Kim Wipes, l keep all bath towels and red rags away from bearing assemblies, they're usually made with a polyester material that doesn't break down in bearings and can ruin a new set of bearings. Kim Wipes are lint free and will not cause a problem, the bearing assemblies I use to repair and rebuild machinery were very expensive, $6k to $18k+ for the bearing components, spacers, labyrinths etc. for lathes and mills. So it was crucial that all components were clean, lint free and no finger prints. Many of the bearings had a spec for how much grease you would need to use, so a syringe was needed marked in CC"s and greased them up accordingly, do wear gloves, the real good grease may contain barium for heat resistance...albeit these are oil bathed but still the principles applies...

Excellent DIY video. As a person with a BA in Vocational Education, I found your video exceptional. Thank you.

Hi - so I just realized my damper is damaged exactly like yours was. You took yours off and refilled it and replaced the large ring that supports it. Did you replace any gaskets on the damper itself? Thanks for the video.

What is your feeling tires now I'm looking for a set on my 2006 LT thanks

How did you "phase" the drive shaft or is this a myth, but I love the video good enough for a weekend mechanic like me

"CLUE: When you put the shim in and you notice that its harder to turn, then here is the clue you have to much shim.... My old shim was 0.80mm and my new one is 0.13mm what changed... maybe they didnt look at what size they put in.. " Or maybe the original crown bearing was manufactured with a different race thickness. For grins, it would have been interesting to test the clearance before disassembly using your same method to see if there was 3 to 4 thousandths clearance. Granted, it could have worn in but still would have been interesting to know if it was tight. The important thing though was to measure it as the bearings are manufactured today understanding that the wrong thickness will make a short-lived repair. :o)

shit's junk I went through 3 boxes in the store to and mixed and matched pieces that didn't have bent bearings . it ends up one bearing was bent anyway and shaft was bent.

Just bought a used bike and I noticed the tires are dated 8 years old! Gonna change that.

What does it accomplish? The clutch fluid may not get on to the clutch, but once the slave cylinder leaks, the job of repairing it is all the same as far as getting to the slave cylinder is concerned.

Hi, I'm currently rebuilding my final drive and when i measure the shim clearance using the same method as you it is 0.4mm, but i can move the inner crown wheel an additional 0.2mm due to lateral play in the bearing. What shim size would you recommend? Do you take this freeplay into account?

Hello. Can you tell me the size(diameter) of bar(shaft)? Is it 13mm?

A year later and its doing real good. With no problems...

Great video! Not as difficult as many riders would expect. Well done!!

The over fix is that they leak and reloading it will prolong them for more life. That all we are saying.. Prolong the life some, as they are about $200..

@ TrueBlogge777, in short I would never keep a tire that was ever this old on my bikes. The risk is to high. I have in the past and has blow outs and other problems. The tire rubber gets hard and it no long sticks to the ground. I will be doing some work on the front this next month ... in short that tire is gone. a new one is there and its about to go.. will get a new one soon .

The point of the hole is that should the clutch slave cylinder leak that you will see the oil drip threw the small hole before it gets to the clutch disk. The oil goes down the rod and drips. Then you will have to pull the transmission.

nice video looks like i can do this, but will need to build up some toolage

I just got the same balancer and the rod was straight. Unfortunately Harbor Freight is still making the installation hole for their rod bearings way too small and then pounding their rod bearings into the roller holes which binds them and in some cases freezes them right up. The solution is to order a new $10 set of skateboard bearings Model 608ZZ (which is what Harbor Freight balancer uses---four of them). Then buy four extra bolt nuts to get the new roller rig attached properly to the stand as everything sticks out a bit now. The nuts are metric size M8-1.25. ..They cost $2. Pound out their ruined Harbor Freight bearings and lightly partially tap the new 608ZZ bearings into the hole---straight and without binding up the bearings. Don't put the new bearings too far into the roller's hole or they will bind as these holes are too small. Luckily the balancer doesn't take much of a beating and a somewhat loose install will be OK for the job. I also cleaned my new bearings with goo gone, isopropyl alcohol and lightly lubed them with WD-40. They were spinning OK right out of the box but now they spin for a very long time. Fixed up the Harbor Freight balancer looks every inch the accurate enterprise. I would estimate it is well within a 1/4 oz accuracy wise if not better. So total cost of the fix was $10 and some sweat...

It's a bad design. A ball bearing is not designed to run with an axial pre-load. On top of that, you have one bearing carrying all the dynamic load of the rear axle and the drive torque. The old twin-shock BMW's did not have these problems.