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That looks like mono to me. To thick in my opinion. I use 30 to 50lb braid and never have a problem even on ultra light builds.

Hey thanks for the question. Yes, with the tipping (black thread), after that first coat has cured, I trim off the tag ends. I generally haven't had any problems. I have had to rewrap the tipping once but it wasn't a big deal. I know there are builders who probably are more skilled and can trim as they wrap without the first coat acting as an adhesive, but this is my workflow and for me it's effective and stress free. Good luck!

@@waywardangler8318 Many thanks for the answer. Want to build my first rod so the videos help a lot. How long should it dry before the second layer?

I’ve heard of builders using that. I have not tried it.

I was taught that using a dab of Hard As Nails (nail polish hardener) works great to hold your wraps in place, and it does not darken the color of the thread that much. Make sure you get the version of Hard As Nails with Nylon. You can get it at any pharmacy.

Thanks for the comment! I'm running this one www.anglersworkshop.com/Batson-Wrappers-Dryers/ALPS-Wrap-Machine-Chuck-Upgrade

It's Prowrap thread in bright colors on a scrap blank I use to teach rod building - easier to see the technique - actually the point of the video. I use silk on my glass rods I build and split cane rods I make.

I’m glad I rescued it from the junk drawer and cleaned it up! Great steak knife to. It’s so light

That's a great question and thanks for asking. On those clear silk thread wraps, it's done by coloring a section of the thread with india ink. It will stay that color while the rest of the wrap goes transparent when applying the finish. I hope that helps.

Great question, Bobby. Just give it a little slack and the threads will separate, and then slowly snug them up by pulling on the tag ends

Thank you, John. I'm glad this worked for you. The technique is very useful when you are going for transparent wraps and you don't want the tag ends of the tipping to show through the main wraps, not that it is bad thing to see the tags. Sometimes, it's a cool effect.

Nick, I haven't tried the black yet, but I think Chris Sparkman has successfully.

Hi Chris. In this video I am showing how to use color preserver with nylon or poly thread. When I am using silk and going for transparency, I do one coat on the main thread, and then come back after with the trim bands, or just do before the first coat, but leave the tags long to make adjustments while the thread is still wet. Check out this video at the 3.13 mark: th-cam.com/video/C8mHY15msHE/w-d-xo.html

@@stephenchristopherson9707 thank you Stephen! I’m doing a 686 as well, haven’t done a glass rod before. And yes I’ve watched your 5 part series. Now I get it and thank you for the clarification, most helpful. I’ll do a practice wrap to be sure!! Thx Chris

None of those wraps are going to be transparent, he is practically using rope.

Roy, only with silk wraps when I am going for a transparent result...and only with the initial coat. Transparent silk wraps requires thorough saturation. The alcohol thins the epoxy enough to do that.

@@waywardangler8318 thank you for that...

Thanks Austin. I don't do a second coat. Next coat after the dots is a coat of epoxy rod finish.

@@waywardangler8318 that's what I was talking about. You said in the part two to go to part three for the second coat of thread wrap finish. Was wanting to see how it came out sanding it down like that.

Oh boy that was a long time ago. You are correct. so the clip at the beginning is the final product after. I do have some other clips from the 626 build that shows the same process of final coat. It's pretty uneventful. the final coat after the sanding is a very thin "skim" and all the dull sanded finish turns glassy. Thanks for keeping me honest. I think I got better in the later videos...I hope

@@Epiphalactic Take a look here Austin th-cam.com/video/_VnUjEnvQP8/w-d-xo.html

I’ve only ever used DNA, non toxic and effective

You can use Acetone or paint thinner but no more than 10% according to my research. I have zero experience with either though.

Thank you for the kind words. There’s some good water out there!

You can try Anglers Workshop. They should be an accessory to the custom wrappers they sell. If you don't see it on their website, contact them directly. They are very helpful.

@@waywardangler8318 I was hoping you know where to purchase directly from the company. At Angler's Workshop saling them kinda expensive.

Thank you for the feedback and kind words. The acrylic ink by itself will not hold up without some sort of top coat. I sometimes use epoxy rod finish, however most of the time I opt for several (3-4) thin coats of a wipe-on poly such as Minwax in gloss. I show the can at 4:50 minutes into the video. I apply it with my finger - I wear a glove. in this case I established the edge with tape and with each additional coat, I move the tape a bit further up the blank to "feather" the finish. Just don't use any finish with alcohol or other solvents that might dissolve the acrylic. Uncut epoxy and polyurethane will not.

Thank you very much for the reply Stephen. I’m expecting an Epic 486 blank next month. I will be watching this series of videos and reading your blog thoroughly. I hope it’s ok if I throw a couple of questions your way during the build. Kind regards from Iceland Eidur

Eiður Kristjánsson sure thing!

Thank you! Do you know if the Whites Run Rd trailhead is still closed?

@@waywardangler8318 Not sure. May try the upper end this year

That butane one we used to pack in the 70's?

No, the Sterno one. I still have mine...somewhere. 🤣

Haha. My god. Yes. I just looked it up. Vintage now apparently.

www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-Little-Demon-Mini-Camp-Stove-Kit-W-Mini-Emergency-Kit-Tube-Tent-Matches/132657265264?hash=item1ee2fd3a70:g:oS4AAOSweUNbHJDj

Thanks Austin!

Thanks, Derrick. It's a beautiful area for sure. I'm still discovering these gems. This one is pretty well known though.

Hey thanks, Carlos