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Hi, thanks for your shout-out :-) Most serious dog sport accessory dealers should have such shock absorber leashes in their programme. If your dealer doesn't stock them, you should look for another one, as you won't get adequate advice. I usually buy my equipment from Uwe Radant (musher, world champion and overall a great guy), but, like I said before, any "serious" dealer should have that stuff available really.

Moin - das Video ist über 14 Jahre alt, die beiden waren damals zwischen 3 und 4 Jahren, also leider: Nein, beide sind nicht mehr bei uns. Ich fahre aber wieder (spaßesweise und als Team) mit einem neuen "Dreamteam". Leider ist TH-cam heute so ekelig geworden, dass ich keine Videos mehr veröffentlichen möchte.

@@HerrSchobert 😥 Traurig, aber das dachte ich mir schon. Behalten Sie ihre zwei Hunde immer in guter Erinnerung.

Sounds wonderful! Keep in mind, please, that pulling a mechanic device requires much more mental energy from the dog than pulling a human being (the dogs notice the difference quite quickly), because, she has to "steer" the device, whereas the human has its own directional control. It is not just the pulling of a weight that tires the dog, it is very much so the mental work they have to bring up!

@@marcalbrecht6518 when we run we usually stop and chill for a while when we reach a good resting area so I’ll make sure to make frequent stops with her when she starts pulling more to give her mind a break

Thank you! Considering the age of this video ... I am happy that it still holds up in "modern times" ^_^

Hi, Amber - for a single dog you might want to consider using a scooter instead of a trike - so you can "pedal along" and help your dog better (just keep the line straight, let the dog pull, just not the full weight all the time). Also: This kind of training is exhaustive for body AND MIND, don't overdo it. Dogs learn how to fid the better path to run (where the "device" rolls better), they have to listen for their human for commands etc. It's a great thing, but always keep it "within limits" - AND HAVE FUN!

Hi, Rita - I don't live in the UK, and I am not familiar enough with laws there, but considering that a) dog sport is a thing worldwide and approved by many, many vets (giving the dogs something "proper" to do, both for the body AND the mind) and b) many more dogs suffer from boredom and zero-jobs-to-do than from being allowed to run (and "hunt" in their world) together with their humans, I would claim that laws (in the UK or elsewhere) that prefer cuddled-to-death-corgies over satisfied running-mix-breeds are about as useful as laws that say that women have to be quiet at church because they aren't men. That said, and tongue pulled out of cheek: There are even dog sport training centers (google for sled dog training centers e.g. in Leicestershire). I very much doubt that it's illegal what they are doing, even in the UK. Now, THAT SAID ... of course you have to look at legal considerations about using ROADS, streets, paths etc! That's a given no matter where you live. In Germany, I am always careful to talk with the respective rangers where I go out with my dogs and make sure that we don't do any harm to country side, wildlife etc.

Thank you for fast reply . Definitely without tongue in cheek Jesus Christ is returning soon everything that is happening in the Bible as Prophecies they are all converging today which all points to the soon return of our Lord Jesus Christ if you are not right with him please turn to Jesus Christ today.😇🇬🇧❤️🇮🇱

Thank you for fast reply . Definitely without tongue in cheek Jesus Christ is returning soon everything that is happening in the Bible as Prophecies they are all converging today which all points to the soon return of our Lord Jesus Christ if you are not right with him please turn to Jesus Christ today.😇🇬🇧❤️🇮🇱

Thank you for fast reply . Definitely without tongue in cheek Jesus Christ is returning soon everything that is happening in the world is in the Bible as Prophecies they are all converging today and coming o pass ,which all points to the soon return of our Lord Jesus Christ Please turn to Jesus Christ today One Corinthians chapter 15 verse 1 to 4 Admit that you are a sinner for all people have sinned Believe only in Jesus Christ God’s only son Call only upon the name of our Lord Jesus the only son of the living God . Do this with faith in you will be saved 😇🇬🇧❤️🇮🇱

Thank you for fast reply . Definitely without tongue in cheek Jesus Christ is returning soon everything that is happening in the world is in the Bible as Prophecies they are all converging today and coming o pass ,which all points to the soon return of our Lord Jesus Christ Please turn to Jesus Christ today One Corinthians chapter 15 verse 1 to 4 Admit that you are a sinner for all people have sinned Believe only in Jesus Christ God’s only son Call only upon the name of our Lord Jesus the only son of the living God . Do this with faith in you will be saved 😇🇬🇧❤️🇮🇱

hmm ... not sure if you're being funny - if you really want to draw comparisons: Factor in the costs for the gym that you (the human) have to pay for in order to keep as fit as my dogs kept me 😛 It's not always about "cheaper", really. Sometimes it's about "more fun".

Danke ... dafür, dass das Video rund 13 Jahre und die Aufnahmen deutlich älter sind ... finde ich den immer noch reinkommenden Zuspruch sehr angenehm :-)

Thanks for the comment! Yes, start with (your!) commands early, make it second nature to your dog to immediately follow through. Take care to have a "go on" command as well :-) If you ever plan to do (semi-)professional mushing, consider using world-wide standards like "gee, haw". But if you want to play it safe and just have fun/working with your dog, use YOUR commands that you are comfortable with.

@@HerrSchobert just doing it to make exercise easier for me, I'm not getting any younger.

@@richardh1764 Ha, I hear you ... I was feeling old when I made those videos 12-13 years ago ... Mrs. Emma Peel is still with me though :-)

hi, I can't give you a yes or no on that, it depends on too many factors, like the ground your trike is rolling on versus the ground your dog is running on, how well trained your dog is (both mentally and physically), speed (slow trott should be doable), mountain or flat area etc. My suggestion is to try with a dog scooter first, for single dog teams I would still consider that the best "mushing intro".

Hi, as indicated here - th-cam.com/video/Da_U2VCA9No/w-d-xo.html - I've got the scooter from Tretroller.de. That was almost 12 years ago. Today, you can get a much wider variety of scooters almost anywhere dog sport equipment is sold. If you are located in Germany, I highly recommend Uwe Radant's shop (unfortunately, at the time of writing this, the shop website uwe-radant.com does not provide https, but you can always call them, they're happy to help with any questions you might have).

Thank you! Almost 12 years have passed since I made the recordings for the video :-) But Ms. Emma Peel is still with me!

@@HerrSchobert Nice to know you still have her. Enjoying life together 💪🏻

Hi, Jake, thanks for the comment. I am not a friend of putting any pressure on a dog if that can be avoided. If the dog or dogs don't behave properly, from my perspective their training hasn't worked out right just yet. The dogs should always "deliver" their work freely, not because they are forced into anything, including slowing down and NOT mixing up leashes. If things like that happen, I will always take a step back and check how I can avoid the problem without causing potential (note: POTENTIAL) harm to them. Obviously, I accept that different people train their dogs differently and my "ways" aren't everyone's ways. Since - so far - I have been able to do pulling with up to four dogs WITHOUT additional ropework and without mixing up leashes, my believe is that it can be done :-) If you want to give your situation another try, you could have a look at what mushers call "necklines", short leashes that connect the neck area of one dog to the next, keeping them "in position" without applying any (real) force. Again, it is a question of training to make use of these, but friends who ran with considerably "wilder" dogs than mine have had good experiences.

@@HerrSchobert -- The "necklines" as you describe them seem similar to the "short leashes" solution that I came up with. These days, due to physical injury / age issues on my part, I can't walk or cycle my dogs as much as I would like, but I have a pretty large backyard and they have plenty of room to run around while chasing each other or people / deer / hogs who are walking along the levee a few hundred feet away... I have 4 dogs (Pit and American Bulldog, plus two crosses of those two) and it would be great if I could hook them up to a 4-dog team for going around the neighborhood. I've tried them one at a time with a bicycle and for the first couple of blocks, it's all I can do to keep up so that the collar is not pulling hard against them. After that, it's a more leisurely trot and I don't have to peddle so hard. I'll usually make one loop around the neighborhood (about 3/4 mile) with each dog and I'm pretty sore the next day. Getting old sucks... All those broken bones and such in your youth kind of come back after awhile and remind you of the bad decisions of your youth... :(

@@jakeblanton6853 Sir, I hear you on getting older not being fun. Ask my dogs :-D All good, I was just exchanging ideas there. Like I hinted at, different dogs, different people, different needs, different approaches. Thanks for the constructive and civilized discussion! Marc

@@HerrSchobert -- The half-hitch with the leash under the chest works great for dogs who want to pull, especially if the person walking the dog is small and cannot handle the force that the dog can exert. It's not something that I used while cycling with dogs though. I would just clip the leash to their collar and cycle fast enough to keep very loose tension on the leash. I came up with this method over 20 years ago and it seems that these days, there are companies that are actually selling leashes that work on the same principle. I doubt that I was the first person to independently come up with the concept. It started out as just a way of creating a halter out of a leash for a dog that would sometimes double back and pull his head out of his collar since I was not using a choker collar. He was one of those dogs whose response to being choked by a choker collar, he would just pull harder, thus making him get choked more, which made him pull even harder. Immediately after putting the half hitch leash under his chest though, I noticed that he tried to pull a LOT less and after a bit of thought on the matter, I figured that was was happening was that it would restrict the movement of his chest, thus making him have to take more shallow breaths. If he did not pull, then the leash under the chest would be relaxed and he could take full breaths. It was a complete change -- previously my wife could not walk him because she was not strong enough to hold him when he wanted to pull, but with the half-hitch under the chest, he would not pull and she would have no problem with him. It's definitely NOT the type of setup one would use for carting or triking with a dog (unless all you want to do is to sit in one place and never move). :)

Hallo, Emine Kus, vielen Dank für den Kommentar auf ein über 12 Jahre altes Video :-) Im Video gebe ich bereits Tips, wie man die Kommandos lernen kann - die Kurzfassung ist: Beim "Spazierengehen" (besser: Andere Ausstattung, also z.B. Geschirr statt Halsband etc, damit die Hunde gleich lernen, dass "Team-Arbeit" etwas anderes ist als "nur rum schnüffeln") bei jedem Richtungswechsel, jedem Abbiegen, jedem Anhalten immer das jeweilige Kommando laut aussprechen. Man kommt sich dabei eine Zeit lang albern vor (meine Frau kann das bestätigen ...), aber es schleift die VERBALEN Kommandos ein. Dann, wenn man die Hunde ans Ziehen gewöhnt - also vorausgehen lässt - strikt dafür sorgen, dass die Kommandos NACH Aussprechen auch umgesetzt werden, sonst anhalten, zurückgehen, nochmal. Wenn's klappt: Loben und nach zwei, drei erfolgreichen Durchgängen Training beenden. Nicht Hunde überfordern, wir sind hier nicht auf dem Hundeplatz - sondern klar unterscheiden zwischen "Gassi gehen" (dient zum Pipimachen und Schnüffeln) und zusammen arbeiten (dann sind NUR die Kommandos relevant, nix anderes). Ja. Das WAR die Kurzfassung. Die Langfassung ist: Machen.

Hi, I do not know where in the world you live, so I cannot tell you were you can get a "dog trike" in your area. However, the manufacturer that I bought the trike from is still active (in Northern Germany). There are many, many variants of this kind of trike on the market by now (remember, this video is over 11 years old!), take care to buy a solid, well welded one if you are going to use it outside your backyard :-)

@@marcalbrecht6518 I live in Australia and most trikes I find are bicycle peddle ones but not low base scooters. Anyways I think I'd have to ship internationally. Thanks for your help.

Mr. Morris, first: The video is 11 years old, I would definitely do a few things differently today - amongst which are NOT doing the first bike-training. For other dog owners a rig on the bike may or even is a good idea, for me, with these two dogs, it was NOT. We had to learn how to do that seperately, the first thing was to have full control over what was going on. If you are not 100% savvy on your bike - or if you are using a "male bike" that might crush your guts when you have to get off quickly - don't do this. If you know how to ride a bike and are absolutely safe on it, you CAN (but don't HAVE TO) do it this way. Your "obviously trained" only shows your ignorance: These dogs weren't huskys, but herding dogs who had a strong bind to myself. They did not have any other training than what I showed in that video. If you claim differently and call me a liar, you are welcome to come over to my place, we have a beer and I show you how I treat dogs so that they learn things willingly and are having fun with it. Might be a different way to yours. As for directions: You are welcome to do your training differently, however, for beginners -like I was back then - I strongly recommend giving directions each and every time. You learn (and your dogs learn) what is what, where is where and how to grow into a team. Mrs. Emma Peel, the black dog, became a fantastic leader over time who didn't need vocal commands at all. She would look back to me and a slight nudge of my head would indicate here which way to go. Her brother, Doctor Schobert, would never learn that, he would always need vocal commands. So, thank you for your comment, but you come across as very high horsed and - while some of your thoughts make sense as a "general advice" - you really shouldn't think that you know better for every single human being AND DOG on this planet.

Hi, if you are referring to the TRIKE - that is listed in the credit roll (hadhi-trike). The video is 10 years old, so I've got zero clue if they still produce trikes. If you are referring to the scooter I drive in another video, I would recommend visiting uwe-radant.com ... that is, if you live somewhere in Europe, else shipping might be an issue.

Moin, nö, musste ich nicht. Der Sinn und Zweck unserer Aktionen war, dass wir als Team unterwegs sind - nicht als Gewinner eines Rennens (von denen ich wenig halte). Wenn Dr. Schobert abdriftete oder träumte, hat Emma ihn schon selbst korrigiert - oder wir haben runtergebremst. Koop war immer Tenor. Davon ab, für die Filmaufnahmen habe ich ja ein paar Mal Necklines 'dran gehabt. Ich bin aber absolut kein Fan davon, denn mit ist die freiwillige Zusammenarbeit und das Aufeinander-Achten wichtiger als irgendein Geschwindigkeitsrekord.

@@HerrSchobert Das hat nichts mit Wettrennen zu tun. Man sieht bei einigen Situationen das die Hunde nicht in die selbe Richtung gehen und damit unnötig gebremst wird, und somit wieder neue Energie aufgebracht werden muss um neu anzufahren

@@HerrSchobert die Neckleine ist zu lang, das kann sich ins Vorderbein verheddern. Es gibt speziell dafür kurze Leinen

@@christophermenzer9869 Ja. Genau. Darum ging es mir. Ich wollte Teamwork, die Hunde sollten auch aufeinander achten, nicht nur schnell von a) nach b) laufen. Mir ist völlig klar, dass das NICHT das ist, was Musher erreichen wollen (das wäre eher "schnell von a) nach b)") Eine "schöne Runde" war für uns, wenn wir zusammen - auch und gerade mit "Fehlern" - Spaß hatten. Nicht, wenn wir "optimal und fehlerfrei in kürzester Zeit mit geringstem Energieaufwand irgendwo ankommen". Und nein: Die Neckleine war nicht zu kurz. Wenn sich da jemand verheddert hätte, hätte ich sofort und komplett das Hobby aufgegeben.

you are correct, to some small degree. Those short parts on the road were for the camera. The dogs knew quite well that the grassy stripes are more comfortable to run on. It was a 120m distance (give or take) - whereas our normal "travel distance" was up to 24km (not with the trike, though). I did clarify that a couple of years ago on the German version and - if Google hadn't messed up with YT back then - should have copied it over. So, yes, don't let your dogs run on roads or streets - or have them WALK instead of run.

Thanks! My team is like a "retirement home" now - but scooting in the Scottish highlands (or even the lowlands) sounds like a cool idea ... hmm ... hmm ... :-)

HerrSchobert I hope they are enjoying their retirement.

Moin - thanks for the comment. You are wrong about the lack of means to assist the dog: You can (and often have to) assist the dog(s) by *pedaling* between the hind wheels.

Hi, I disagree on the bike part being unnecessary (because we trained commands that way) or dangerous (because I can definitely jump off a bike faster and have my dogs in direct access WITH ME from the bike than from the trike). The main point was: With the bike I always had 100% control while with the trike I had to rely on the dogs knowing their jobs. Jumping off the trike, getting around the device to grab the dogs - when a truck tries to run us down for example - is way more tricky. Yet, if you aren't comfortable on your bike, if you cannot get off it fast enough (e.g. because you are driving a "men's" bike with a "testicle-destruction-bar"), if your dogs *do* know the commands and are 99% reliable, you could start out with a trike. My personal recommendation always would be to start with something that you, personally, are absolutely in control of.

Thanks, I did not grow up riding a bicycle and would have trouble with two dogs on leash on a bicycle.

:-) Exactly what I meant by "if you aren't comfortable on your bike" etc. You should know what *you* can master before you expect your dogs to be better at it :-)

Hi, Zoe, thanks for your feedback! It's actually in the credit roll at the end of the video: I got my trike from a German Trike-Maker (a very small company creating quite a variety of dog-vehicles). The video is a bit older, as you have probably noticed, today you should be able to get trikes of various builds from "just about anywhere", most dog sport equipment shops should have one or another brand. I can't help with an address in Australia, though ... unfortunately I haven't been to your country yet :)

Hi, Most welcome. Many Thanks for that, yeh although many in Australia do do this, however buying the gear, scooters / trikes in Australia, it is not common.... there are a couple of places within Australia, however there places are more online stores, It's not a Big Thing like in the US or other international locations....

well, to be fair, it may be a clima thing ... I can imagine Australia is a tad warmer than, say, Northern Germany. And since dogs can't really sweat, this kind of sport might not be the best for the weather conditions you are living in, as sad as that may be ...

Hi, Paul - thanks for the comment! As for using "haw" and "gee": If you are going "pro" and want to be able to have other mushers run your team, I would agree. But I have always seen this as a "hobby", one that I want all of us to enjoy. Safety is first, not winning some race! In daily life I do not say "gee" or "haw", I say "right" or "left". Therefor, if we get into trouble and I have to give QUICK commands, it is actually better to have my dogs understand "left" and "right", because those are the words I will use instinctively - not "gee" or "haw". In an ideal world I could train them to listen for all four terms, sure. But what would be the benefit? The way I trained them I could even have visitors take a quick roll around the pasture with me running along and everybody could be safe, because nobody had to learn "gee" or "haw". If you are training with other teams, if you are cooperating, if you are trading team members - then I agree, use common commands that "everybody" knows. But that has never been a situation I was in nor one that I wanted to be in :-) Again, thanks for the feedback! Marc

Hallo, die Frage ist, finde ich, nicht pauschal zu beantworten. Es hängt vom Trainingszustand des Hundes ab (Muskeln, Knochen, Sehnen, Bänder), vom Ausbildungsstand, sicher auch von Rasse/"Zusammensetzung" und anderem Kleinkram. wenn Du eine ganz pauschale Aussage haben willst, würde ich sagen: Fang mit 1-1,5 Jahren mit dem Grundtraining (Kommandos, Ausdauer) an, zwischen 1,5-2 mit dem Ziehen. Viele Hobby-"Musher", die ich kenne, überfordern ihre Hunde, weil sie möglichst schnell möglichst wenig selbst tun wollen (oder den "Geschwindigkeitskick" suchen). Man kann das Training ganz gut zum "Pubertät-Überstehen" nutzen, freilebende Wölfe schicken ja auch die Jungspunde voraus in den Tiefschnee, damit die sich auspowern :-) Für die Hunde ist das Ziehen "gemeinsames Hetzen", das muss man mit "Kindern" noch nicht unbedingt machen ... Wenn Du einen anständigen Musher in der Nähe hast, setz' Dich mit ihm oder ihr in Verbindung, stell' Deine Hunde mal vor (oder Deinen Hund). Übers Interweb sollte man das nicht "blind" erörtern ...

HerrSchobert Du hast Recht das kann man pauschal nicht sagen allerdings gibt es ein paarSachen die man beachten sollte. 1. Der Hund muss lauffreudig sein 2. Der Hund muss gesund sein 3. Der sollte für das richtige Mushing nahezu ausgewachsen sein. Das Training ohne last kann man allerdings auch Welpen schon bei bringen 4. Wenn du wenig/nicht mithilfst sollte der Hund MAXIMAL sein 4 Faches körpergewicht ziehen.(Es geht auch mehr aber wenn ich bei jedem Punkt so ausführlich bin werd ich heute nicht mehr fertig) 5. Vergiss nicht deinem Hund mehr Wasser/Futter zugeben außer er soll ein bissl abnehmen;) Beim Fahren musst du darauf achten 1. Dass die jöringleine immer straff und under power steht(Dieser Punkt ist seeeeehr wichtig und wird oft vernachlässigt fälschlicherweise. Im Groben kann man sagen beide haben mehr Spaß und der Hund wird nicht unsicher) 2. Dass du deinem Hund nicht in die Knochen fährst 3.dass der Hund Spaß hat:) Mfg Steven

Just need to set up a team of a dozen or so of the Jack Russel terriers...

Jake Blanton haha. Sounds good but could you imagine the racket with so many jack Russell terriers bad enough with two. 😂

doh...end of video..