you can also disconnect battery negative and retest to help remove interferences. Bassicaly 100mv and below is ok if once battery grounds are disconnected.
Fantastic. Can you tell me where I can find a diagram like that for Mazda 3 2012? I would like to know exactly what the resistor values should be. My new one is on the way. No luck searching on my own.
Nobody ever tells you what setting to put the multi meter on that should pisses me off you just assume that we all know how to use the fucking multimeder if we knew how to use the fucking malt I meter we wouldn't be looking at this stupid fucking video
So first of all, you said pin 2 is low speed, pin 3 is medium speed and pin 4 is high speed. According to ohms law you should have the highest resistance on the lowest speed and the lowest resistance on high speed. Medium speed should have a resistance that is in between those two resistances. I’m not trying to be critical just accurate.
Nice video! It would be great if you could show how the multimeter can be used in this scenario to test how many amps the blower motor uses. 👍😀 great job!
witch relay is responsible for the blower motor to stop working!! i have replaced the motor and the controls!! still no air at all. it gets warm but no flowing air!!
@@FixItYerself I have a Haynes manual for a 1999 Subaru. It shows how to test the ohms, but not what the specs are for each setting/speed. I don't know where to get those specs except from a dealer. I know this is an old post, but just in case anyone else is trying to find info on a resistor.
@@robertharris7627 i found a forum that mentions .46, .6, and 1.0 ohms, so you could test to see if you get something close to those on each pin/resistor. If the blower is blowing a fuse or creating a lot of heat in the wiring, you likely need a new fan; I found this out the hard way on the wife's Mazda when hard-wiring a switch simply ended up in melted switches. If the blower is only working on certain settings, then one or more resistors in the 'blower resistor' may have failed--they're fairly inexpensive, but if you're handy enough with a soldering iron, you may be able to save a few bucks by buying replacing the little resistors in the unit. Newer cars with climate control use a mosfet and also have a small thermofuse that breaks the electrical connection when enough heat is created from too many amps; I doubt you'll find that on your '99 Subaru if it just has basic heat and fan controls, but it's something to look for.
@@FixItYerself Thanks for that info, OGN. The results I got on the one in the Subaru were 1.2, 1.5, and 1.8. I don't think that's the problem in this case. I believe the board in the control module is bad. I ordered one off ebay and will find out in a few days if true. When I tested the power for the plug that connects to the resistor, there was no power. I removed the motor/fan and connected it to a battery and it ran fine. All of the relays and fuses tested good. I need to test the wire from the plug at the control module that goes to the resistor, but don't believe there's a problem with the wiring, but could definitely be wrong. The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual is good. Just wish they put ohm ranges in there to have something to compare to. I'd rather work on a mechanical problem any day.
😂😂 yeah, right
Wouldn't you need to check your engine grounds first?
Not good video for beginners
you can also disconnect battery negative and retest to help remove interferences. Bassicaly 100mv and below is ok if once battery grounds are disconnected.
Fantastic. Can you tell me where I can find a diagram like that for Mazda 3 2012? I would like to know exactly what the resistor values should be. My new one is on the way. No luck searching on my own.
Blower motor not working in front on a 2011 Nissan Altimun Platinum.
Add a ground to the radiator. It will stop the electrolysis.
thanks man
Yo quick question. I should have 12v going to the resistor right? If not and the fuse is good, would that be blower speed switch?
Phenomenal video straight to the point
I have a surprise for you FOR free is you can find the "T" in across.
Doing it that way you aren't showing that a motor could be bad if it is drawing too much amperage.
Nobody ever tells you what setting to put the multi meter on that should pisses me off you just assume that we all know how to use the fucking multimeder if we knew how to use the fucking malt I meter we wouldn't be looking at this stupid fucking video
Hindi me video plise send me
so, instead of some coils in stone (if you open them up its just wound up steel wire), couldnt we use some electrical resistors?
Its nichrome
You're doing nothing but giving a a lot of vague info that's practically not helping anyone.
So did the flush fix it? I'm soon to be on radiator #5. I flushed the system on the 4th one and got sacrifical annode, still started leaking.
Umm no mmjjjuiioiijhhhhgzghhhjhhh D jamhhhhuuuuhhgj hi I I will Nkomo Oi s
So first of all, you said pin 2 is low speed, pin 3 is medium speed and pin 4 is high speed. According to ohms law you should have the highest resistance on the lowest speed and the lowest resistance on high speed. Medium speed should have a resistance that is in between those two resistances. I’m not trying to be critical just accurate.
Holy cow that's awesome and so easy! Where do I find the specs for my vehicle? 2004 Chevy suburban.
Short and to the point. Wish other videos were like this.
Ye
but its inaccurate, hethe module is actually working fine
@@Hellohallo how do you know
I used a 12v battery charger to test my fan.
Nice video! It would be great if you could show how the multimeter can be used in this scenario to test how many amps the blower motor uses. 👍😀 great job!
Really don’t understand the thumbs down, maybe they didn’t understand it
witch relay is responsible for the blower motor to stop working!! i have replaced the motor and the controls!! still no air at all. it gets warm but no flowing air!!
Where do you get the spec? I have a Nissan Infiniti I30
a repair manual like this one amzn.to/2pWZjeQ
@@FixItYerself I have a Haynes manual for a 1999 Subaru. It shows how to test the ohms, but not what the specs are for each setting/speed. I don't know where to get those specs except from a dealer. I know this is an old post, but just in case anyone else is trying to find info on a resistor.
@@robertharris7627 i found a forum that mentions .46, .6, and 1.0 ohms, so you could test to see if you get something close to those on each pin/resistor. If the blower is blowing a fuse or creating a lot of heat in the wiring, you likely need a new fan; I found this out the hard way on the wife's Mazda when hard-wiring a switch simply ended up in melted switches. If the blower is only working on certain settings, then one or more resistors in the 'blower resistor' may have failed--they're fairly inexpensive, but if you're handy enough with a soldering iron, you may be able to save a few bucks by buying replacing the little resistors in the unit. Newer cars with climate control use a mosfet and also have a small thermofuse that breaks the electrical connection when enough heat is created from too many amps; I doubt you'll find that on your '99 Subaru if it just has basic heat and fan controls, but it's something to look for.
@@FixItYerself Thanks for that info, OGN. The results I got on the one in the Subaru were 1.2, 1.5, and 1.8. I don't think that's the problem in this case. I believe the board in the control module is bad. I ordered one off ebay and will find out in a few days if true. When I tested the power for the plug that connects to the resistor, there was no power. I removed the motor/fan and connected it to a battery and it ran fine. All of the relays and fuses tested good. I need to test the wire from the plug at the control module that goes to the resistor, but don't believe there's a problem with the wiring, but could definitely be wrong. The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual is good. Just wish they put ohm ranges in there to have something to compare to. I'd rather work on a mechanical problem any day.
How about nissan maxima