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Reloaders codex
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 ม.ค. 2024
Welcome to the channel. I've been reloading for about a year now, so im still fairly new to it. Follow my journey as I learn and grow my reloading and shooting skills. So whether you're new to reloading or you've been doing this a long time, let's exchange ideas and knowledge at a sport we all enjoy
How to zero your scope in 2 shots
I show and explain how to zero an optic in 2 shots. This zeroing method is a very simple way to save you time and money.
มุมมอง: 2 276
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5.56: 69gr Sierra Match-King with Varget
มุมมอง 2K21 วันที่ผ่านมา
Working up a load in 5.56 using 69gr Sierra Match-King and Varget with Starline 5.56 brass (which causes some case fill limits due to having smaller case capacity than typical 5.56 brass like Lake City. Also discover issues with my optic that could be impacting accuracy on top of POI shift depending on what magnification its set at.
Tall target test with custom 6.5cm bolt action
มุมมอง 2.9Kหลายเดือนก่อน
testing out a new precision rifle build while doing a tall target test to verify that my scope is mounted level and tracking correctly. The rifle is a custom zermatt arms origin action, 6.5cm 26" proof research stainless steel 1-8 twist barrel, triggertech special trigger. area419 scope rings, vortex viper pst gen 2, 3-15 scope.
5.56: Accurate 2520 with 77gr Nosler Custom Comp. & 75gr Hornady Match
มุมมอง 900หลายเดือนก่อน
Doing 5.56 load development for my 20" WOA SPR barreled ar15 using Accurate 2520 with 77gr Nosler Custom Competition and 75gr Hornady Match bullets. I've heard a lot of great things about this powder and it didn't disappoint.
5.56 Brass Comparison Test
มุมมอง 738หลายเดือนก่อน
verifying 22grs of Accurate 2495/75gr Hornady Match with 5 different brass manufacturers (Starline 5.56, WCC, Lake city, Federal 5.56, Winchester 5.56) to see if brass really matters for getting the most out of your load development. The rifle im using is my 20" WOA SPR barreled upper in .223 wylde. Oss 7.62 hx qd suppressor. Vortex Viper pst gen 2 3-15x44 optic. triggertech diamond trigger.
Testing Starline 5.56 brass with Accurate 2495 and 69gr SMK/75gr Hornady Match
มุมมอง 6962 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fireforming 100 rounds of new Starline 5.56 brass with two 50 round load work ups using Accurate 2495. The first 50 rounds are with 69gr Sierra Match-King, and the second 50 rounds are with 75gr Hornady Match. Its my First time using both the Starline brass and 75gr Hornady Match and they dont disappoint.
Does Neck Tension Effect Accuracy?
มุมมอง 1.8K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Testing different expander mandrel sizes to see if different neck tensions effects accuracy. Using 22.4gr Varget, 77gr Nosler Custom Competition, CCI #41 primers, Lake City (LC17) brass.
Expander ball vs Expander mandrel
มุมมอง 9K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Testing whether an expander mandrel can give you better accuracy and consistency on your reloads compared to an expander ball, as well as verifying a load from my last video using 22.5grs of Varget with a 77gr Sierra match-king.
Cloning Mk 262 Mod1 (5.56): Varget/77gr Sierra Match-king
มุมมอง 6853 หลายเดือนก่อน
Cloning Mk 262 Mod1 (5.56): Using Varget, 77gr Sierra Match-King bullets, CCI #41 Primers, And Lake City brass.
Ejector marks & Primer cratering problems
มุมมอง 2044 หลายเดือนก่อน
quick video about pressure signs on my AR15 brass even when there's no excess or high pressure. ejector marks and/or slight primer cratering on my brass regardless of how high my velocity and pressure is. I want to get your take on my situation and ways to fix my issues if they are indeed issues to worry about. Lets talk it out in the comments.
Choosing the best method for load development: 10 rd ladder test vs OCW test method (part 1)
มุมมอง 5945 หลายเดือนก่อน
Doing a load work up with the 69gr Sierra match-king, and IMR8208xbr for my 20" WOA SPR barreled upper AR15 using both the 10 rd ladder test method, and the OCW method and putting them head to head to see which method is better for load development.
20" White Oak Armament SPR barrel testing: .223/5.56
มุมมอง 6836 หลายเดือนก่อน
20" White Oak Armament SPR barrel testing: .223/5.56
Testing my ballistic advantage spr barrel with IMR8208xbr and 77gr SMK
มุมมอง 1677 หลายเดือนก่อน
Testing my ballistic advantage spr barrel with IMR8208xbr and 77gr SMK
Have to agree. Not everyone likes the same music. Best to just use no added "noise". Off to hit the do not recommend button. Im a mandrel guy myself.
I wouldn't expect great results with an AR platform due to the BCG loading the round. I have seen bullets move drastically on semi auto rifles effecting your seating depth. Which also brings up the question of are you crimping? How are you doing your reloading? I anneal, turn the necks, full-length size with a neck bushing on a Redding type S die then expand with a mandrel. I always shoot for about 5 thousands of expansion when running my mandrel and have a result of 2 thousands of neck tension with very consistent seating pressure.
I f.l. size and then run a .222 mandrel through them. But im going to start using 221 cause I think with spring back, my neck tension is too light, and it's causing accuracy issues from the feed ramp impacts, moving the bullets around. I don't turn the necks, crimp, or do anything but your standard reloading steps. I deprime, clean, clean primer pockets, anneal, fl size with expander ball removed, then use an expander mandrel, clean, trim, deburr flashhole after 1st firing only, then chamferr amd deburr, then load. I have this checklist that I keep with every batch. Keep all the same headstamp together as well as the same number of firings. All in separate containers. My reloading. im sure needs definite work, but im very particular and ocd about making the brass as perfect as I can get them, and it's the same when I load them too. It takes me forever, but I enjoy the process as much as shooting, so I don't mind at all.
@Reloaderscodex have you chambered a round then pulled it and verified the bullet didn't move once seating in the chamber? I never had luck with my AR10 in a 6.5 Creedmoor keeping the bullet seating depth even when I bumped the neck tension to 4 thousands. I eventually just did a light crimp to keep the bullet from shifting during the chamber cycle.
@aaronbiggi7056 i have, and it didn't seem to change the coal, but I haven't done any extensive test. Just loaded a single round and checked the coal before and afterward. I should probably check with more than one lol
You rocked this one!! I've bailed out on SO many scope sighting videos because they weren't printing a group for record beginning with the 3rd shot. It's not hard. Two shots, count clicks to correct, print a 3-shot group for record. If the scope is untrustworthy to move accurately per click counting, then get a better scope. You MIGHT make a 2 click adjustment after the three shot with this method.
2700+ f/s for 24.0 grains isn’t that slow. Also Lots of powder can change +/- 5% which is 100-150 f/s
This will be good for when zeroing with My 4-16x50mm MOA VPR
👍 It works really well. It's much easier than guesstimating and using up ammo. Now that I have it zeroed, I'm gunna shoot the tall target test to check that i mounted the scope level. I have a video on it that I did not long ago
Expander ball sounds like a sex toy.
Hahaha
Colt 20 rds metal mags work well for me…
I've been using a 10rd duramag. It allows 2.3" coal, and it's worked pretty well for me.
There is no point doing an analysis when your standard die is *visibly* out of spec.
What a breath of fresh air!!! A correctly orientationally configured rifle...us lefties are unicorns and priceless...a cracking chassis, action, suppressor and shooting! Looking forward to more content over here in the UK bud!!
Appreciate that bro. I love being a lefty but it can be a pain in ass sometimes finding good gear in stock. Lol
@@Reloaderscodex tell me about it! we get crucified for it financially too! Extra ££'s for a lefty action or stock just because the engineer has had to push a different button hahaha Keep the great content coming dude!
For real! Glad there's other lefties out there in the great beyond besides just myself Haha. Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Well, we definitely know that you can shoot now ! I don't wanna hear from you that you aren't the best shooting person anymore. 😅
Lol pretty sure it's a fluke haha. Don't jinx me
@Reloaderscodex Yeah right. It's about time we see you shoot good 👍. Just be confident in yourself brother 💯.
@MTCKIE68 haha thank you. Appreciate the kind words 🙏
Great explanation and visual bud! Just a heads up. I'm in the middle of a temp stability test. If you ever find yourself working with AR Comp, it's stability is the opposite of all other powders I've tested so far. As it gets colder, the pressure and velocity increase. Just a safety thing to be aware of.
Good looking out
If your expander ball was off center, you would break the decap pin every time. I do not use my decap feature on match brass, but there I have on hunting ammo. I realize that I am old school, but I am also not involved in the arms race that is F class. In 60 years of loading and target shooting including various match classes including with the USAMU, never really had a problem.
How big is the dot you are aiming at?
An inch
Your SD's got better with reduced neck tension.
I didnt even notice that, i plan on trying a full load work up with doing either 2 1/2 or 3 thou neck tension cause I think that the 2 thou might be slightly too light of neck tension for ar15 and it might he effecting my groups and opening them up a bit. I need to do a little more testing to see if my neck tension has been too light. Regardless, I really prefer expander mandrels over expander balls that come in the f.l. sizing dies. Much better consistency.
Those darn flyers will get you every time... I am a machinist retired of 36 years and have never used a mandrel so I think I am going to make up a set or two and try them for myself.
They are definitely more consistent and can adjust your neck tension compared to standard expander ball.
Just got a bunch of W C C 8 7 from the range, so this is a helpful intro to how it relates to other brass. Thanks man
Bad music
Did you measure your runout or are you assuming? Not sure your results are conclusive
Unfortunately, I don't have a concentricity gauge to measure runout, but i plan on getting one and doing a video comparing groups with different amounts of runout to see if it actually matters. Cause I've heard both that it matters, and that it doesn't matter when it comes to accuracy at least to a certain degree. Obviously, if the runout is super bad, it'll cause issues, but I'll have to save some money to get a gauge first.
@ I bought the Sinclair years ago when it was on sale. Haven’t used yet cause I am not sure how much it matters for my shooting. I plan to try it out soon though. It happens to be on sale now for BF. Cheap enough to try…
@djryan8944 yeah that's the one I was looking at. I doubt it makes a big difference but I think it'll be a good video.
The NOE system comes with different size plugs with two steps in them. The first determines the neck tension and second opens the mouth a bit more to make it easier for the bullet to start. You can buy all different sizes inexpensively. They give you more choices to experiment with and other calibers.😊
Never heard of it. Sounds interesting to play around with. You have any experience with it?
@@Reloaderscodex Yes. I have many sizes for different calibers. It’s the best for a perfect fit. Saves on brass life.
What's something like that run for one caliber? I'm not sure whether it'd be more beneficial for my ar15 or for my bolt gun?
Don’t forget the two diameters with the NOE expanders.
Not sure what noe expanders are?
You have a little item,called barrel HEAT, do this test over 2 days and a set time between shots. Walking the POI is a direct result of the heat. Any and all semi autos are good under an inch if you want quarter minute groups go to a blot action.
Yeah i usually keep my barrel warm but not hot. A 50 round load work up will take me a long afternoon.
I've had great accuracy with 2495 shooting 155 A Max's in my 308..every thing else I tried it in including 556 was just too slow,I would like to give it another try here in the future because my accuracy was so impressive..Keep up the good videos my friend..
Very appreciated, brother. I love its accuracy, too, but like you said, it's pretty slow. If it was even rocking at like 2650fps, I'd be happy, but it's usually much slower than that.
Hope you're not using cci #41
I am yeah
@Reloaderscodex try a different primer. Those were the worst for me especially with 2520.
@Crnkb8s do you use the reg 400s? Or something other than cci?
@@Reloaderscodex I like the #400 s Johnny did an AR test one time and the #400s did much better
@Crnkb8s i would have got them, but I was worried they would slam fire easier from being a bit softer than the 41s in an AR
SFP you change your zoom you change your point of aim. FFP it will keep it accurate do to the reticle being in front of the zoom glass. So SFP you need to zero it for that zoom power.
Yeah its a FFP scope. Not a fan of SFP
Good video 🙏
Thank you. I need to think of some other video ideas besides just load development all the time.
the trend you are seeing is common dispersion of what some loads do. its not anything you're doing wrong reloading pr shooting.
That's good to know lol
you mentioned book loads. It's important to know that the velocity the book list is where max pressure is, not necessarily the charge weight listed. pressure equals velocity, this is per hodgdon, bryan litz (applied ballistics), and hornady. there are things that affect powder that will change how much is needed. the humidity content of the powder being one of the biggest ones. so if said company does their test with a 70% humidity and you store your powder in 30% humidity, test has shown there is gonna be a big difference velocity. go listen to applied ballistics podcast #62 i think it is.
Thanks I'll do that
Make sure your parallax is set correctly that will cause group shifting especially when breaking cheak rest
Yeah, that's one of my biggest problems is that cheek rest is non-existent, and I have to hold my head up, so it's hard to really get relaxed and set. I need to make a cheek rest for it until I can afford to get a different stock. But I just put all my money into a custom bolt gun build and reloading components for that, so I'll shift to that for a bit while I save my pennies. But I need to really pay better attention to where I hold my head. As far as my parallax setting, it's spot on at the 100-yard point, so I know that's not it it's honestly just me not knowing what the heck im doing, lol. But im learning and having fun.
Did you ever post the ocw test for this series? I don’t see it…
Not yet I ran out of 8208 so im either going to do it with my 6.5cm or find some 8208 somewhere
@ good luck finding 8208! I haven’t seen that in quite some time. I’m not sure they are even making it anymore
Yeah i have enough for maybe 15 rounds but I can't really get a good comparative test with that so im probably just gunna remake it with my bolt gun instead
I also use the FA primer tool. I've never noticed the seated primers being crooked, but unless it's fairly extreme, I doubt it would have any noticeable effect.
Mine are pretty crooked. I ended up getting a k&M and while it's slightly slower I like it much better.
Don't forget to allow for spring back I use a .223 mandrel for a bolt gun 223 AI. Give it a try check the rounds lower in the mag. See if they're moving.
Yeah, i think I'm gunna play around with the 221 mandrel or a 2215 instead of a 222. I dont have a 223 mandrel, unfortunately
How do you maintain a consistent seating depth with such light neck tension??? I noticed my 77gr SMKs were sliding out of the case .005 (+/-.002) from the momentum of the bolt clambering the cartridge. I posted this question on another video, but figured I have better odds of picking your brain on your most recent.
What are you using for your neck tension?
How do you maintain a consistent seating depth with such light neck tension??? I noticed my 77gr SMKs were sliding out of the case .005 (+/-.002) from the momentum of the bolt clambering the cartridge.
What are you currently using to size your brass and set your neck tension? Are you making sure the inside of your necks are free of lubrication before seating your bullets? Give me a bit of your process and how you load your ammo.
@Reloaderscodex I'm currently using Redding S dies with a bushing to give me about .006 neck tension on annealed Nosler brass. I've even used the lightest spring in my buffer tube with an adjustable gas block to slow the BCG down. Thinking about heavier weights in the buffer.
@mmorgan227 I've never used an s die. How do you get to the neck tension you want?
Have you tried a light crimp
Nice job, I’ve been wanting to do this same test but haven’t got to it yet!
Thanks for watching! I'm going to do this again but with my bolt gun in 6.5cm. See if I can get a bit cleaner results. You'll have to let me know how your testing goes and the results you get.
semi autos don’t shoot as good as a bolt gun. So not sure why you used an AR for this test
Because i didn't have a bolt gun at the time
To me, the background music is quit annoying....
Yeah, I've since stopped putting it in my videos.
Ok, so 1st thing's 1st. ALL pressure signs occur prior to unlocking. So that narrows down the options. Your lower, whisper pickle, gas block, setting, tube, BCG, and upper have nothing to do with it. Your chamber, cartridge, bolt assembly, and firing pin do. 1: chamber & cartridge: you said it was 223 wylde, have you checked the max distance to the lands with an OAL gauge?? 2: Bolt assembly: The JP should be flawless. 1 of the bolts that you showed that caused the "rim job" has a poorly machined face, you can clearly see the lip on the bolt and brass. Not the end of the world, but it's not doing you any favors. The AERO bolt should be good. If the AERO or JP are jacked up, talk to the company, they should take care of you. The size difference between the firing pin and the firing pin hole leads to cratering, JP should be nearly 0, just enough to function. The "craters" you showed are very mild. If the ejector is sharp and/or the ejector spring is too strong, you get premature ejector marks. This shouldn't be an issue with factory bolts, especially JP and AERO. The ejector marks you showed are very mild. 3: cartridge: What's your shoulder bump?? Too much can cause the brass to "get a running start" when it slams into the bolt fact, leading to premature marks. On an AR, it should be 0.003" to 0.005" depending on what you're doing, you can fiddle with less bump. Most factory ammo/ virgin brass is 0.010" to 0.020" of bump. Brass metallurgy matters, soft brass shows signs sooner, hard brass shows it later. What I think is wrong: I think you're jamming the bullets and spiking pressures, and possibly too much shoulder bump on top of that. None of the pressure signs you have ever talked about or shown are concerning in a safety sense. When you start raising burrs that you can cut your finger on, or blowing primers, that would be a safety concern. Because you have a 223 wylde chamber, you need to check the lands with an OAL gauge. Most bullets hit the lands before mag length in a 223 wylde. A lot of factory ammo jams into the lands of a 223 wylde. A 5.56 chamber is roughly 0.125" longer in the throat than a 223 wylde, so even if you load wad cutters to max mag length, it's going to be nearly impossible to hit the lands in a 556 chamber.
I have checked overall length of all the bullets I've used and they aren't jamming so that's good but I've since started only bumping the shoulder 3 thou and I haven't had any more problems as I was in this video. I think I was bumping the shoulder to much a little over 5 thou.
"run out" has been pretty well disproven as a variable(as long as it's not cocked at a 45 degree and can't be chambered) by multiple people, multiple times, with multiple cartridges, multiple guns, with factory and hand loads. I wanted to believe that it matters, but ALL of the evidence so far says that it doesn't. The people that have tested it includes Brian Zolnikov, a 1,000yrd precision bench rest shooter with a PhD in Neurology....
Good to know. So, for the l.e.wilson seating dies, do they not make a big difference between just a standard seating die?
@@Reloaderscodex Correct. It's just a personal preference thing at this point. For reference, World champion 1,000 yrd F-class shooter Eric Cortina, loads all of his stuff on a Dillon Progressive press. I don't remember the dies he uses, but they're not a bougie as the LE wilson. Dies can make a difference in other areas, such as how much are you sizing the body of the case or ease of adjustment, but any commercially sold die produces good enough concentricity to where it makes no difference on target. You are gonna wanna check the seating stem on the bullets though. A standard seating stem doesn't always fit a standard bullet, even if the company says it should. I have 165gr hornady SST 30 cal bullets, and a standard hornady 30 cal seating stem doesn't fit it(tip bottoms out), despite hornady swearing up one side and down the other that it should fit fine, and even sending me a 2nd stem with the same issue. If it scuffs the ogive, that's not a big deal, but try to find the best fitting ones you can, especially if you're running compressed loads.
@joearledge cool good to know thanks for the info!
Is it because when the bullet goes through the rifling it will straighten itself out?
@@Reloaderscodex That's the basic principle, behind the leading hypotheses for why it doesn't matter. I haven't seen definitive proof as to WHY it doesn't matter though. It would be cool to know for sure, but I don't know if anyone is going to bother with the research on that.
Brass metallurgy directly affects pressure signs, so you have to learn your brass and gun.
4:45 yeah, that's the downside to hornady bullets, they're almost all secant ogives. If you find a sweet seating depth, they're amazing, but if anything changes, all bets are off. Just remember, Secant sensitive, Tangent tolerant.
The "2 out 3 in" could be multiple things. With the group sizes, I think there's a 99% chance it's just the natural dispersion of the group. Possible other causes include but are not limited to: 1: COAL changing in the mag or when it hits the feed ramps due to neck tension/ crimp 2: too fast of a twist rate 3: barrel starting to "walk" due to heat 4: wind, spin drift, and/or aerodynamic jump(more relevant at 100 than most people realize if you're trying to shoot tiny groups) I wouldn't sweat it that much. You can play with seating depth and ammo durability. But I'm 99% sure it's just the normal dispersion. If you want to test it, find a consistently good load or 2 and do a 20 to 50 shot group. Test for barrel heat by doing the same thing, with 5 to 10 min between every shot. Test COAL changes with a dummy ammo durability test, and doing a single feed barrel heat test(5 to 10 min between shots), don't feed off the mag, hand feed directly into the chamber.
I was actually thinking that it might be the feed ramp causing it. I'll have to try those tests and see. A few times, I have chambered a round, then extracted it and measured coal, and it stayed the same, but the bullets do get pretty tore up from the feed ramp.
@Reloaderscodex yeah, the love bites from the ramp are just part of the AR life.
So you think i should start trying out the 221 or 2215 mandrels, instead of the 222? The more I think about it, the more im thinking the split 2 grouping groups really got bad around the time I started using mandrels. And im wondering if depending on which side of the feed ramp the bullets load into the chamber determines where the bullets are gunna land bc of the lack of proper neck tension casing the bullets to be manipulated in some way. If you watch a couple of different groups, the way they split into the small groups is always depending the order of which shot is fired in the 5 round group. They always always split in the sake order of shots fired. Kinda weird. Idk im just thinking outside the box cause I'm tired of my groups sucking balls. Lol. But im probably so off base lol
The only issue I've had with starline 556 is that it doesn't gradually show pressure signs, it goes from flawless brass to popping primers really fast. The best way I've found to monitor pressure is with web measurements.
What do you mean by web measurements?
@Reloaderscodex this is a good way to measure pressure signs on all brass. 1: take your upper off and remove the BCG and charging handle. 2: drop a dummy round or brass into the chamber. 3: the unsupported part of the brass, between the extractor groove and the chamber is the web When a round goes off, this section of the case expands in diameter. Technically the web is the part that you're flash hole is drilled through. That change in diameter correlates to pressure. Virgin or sized brass should measure 0.373"-ish at this section. In my experience, at roughly 0.376" at this point(after firing) is when you start blowing primers, or at least blowing out the pocket even if you don't lose the primer. This rule of thumb has been very very consistent for me with multiple brands of brass in multiple guns with multiple weight projectiles. Depending on how much brass life you want to give up VS how hot you want your loads dictates where you draw the line. I'll usually run close to max so my measurements are about 0.375 to 0.3755, for my max usable charge. Obviously if you want to be conservative, closer to 0.373" is better.
Good to know thanks!
Neck tension affects precision, but it's a small yield variable. If you're shooting high precision long range championship competitions, and 0.050" change in group size is the difference between 1st and 50th place, it matters. In an AR, I'd error on the side of ammo durability, so more neck tension more better. When you're bullet hits the feed ramps, COAL shortens. If neck tension is too light, the COAL can walk out longer in the mag. I run 0.004" on all semi autos, and usually around 0.003" crimp on top of that. If your neck tension is too light, and the bullet walks out in the mag, and you jam it in the lands, and you try to eject the live round, the bullet can get stuck and powder going everywhere. That sucks for obvious reasons.
I'll have to try using the 2215 or 221 expander mandrel have have 2.5 to 3 thou neck tension and see if that helps my group splitting.
@Reloaderscodex if you decide you want other sizes, call 21st century. They don't list all of their sizes online.
Hey! I figured out why you're velocities suck so bad! I looked at my notes and double checked your sources.... YOU'RE USING THE WRONG DATA! You're using 223 data, not 5.56 data. Please don't take this the wrong way, but are you brand new to reloading? I haven't heard you say in your videos, but if you are, mention it in videos, and it'll help us help you. Some people might be holding back because they don't want to be "rude" by telling you something that they think you already know. Anyway, keep up the good work.
Yeah fairly new. About 7 months. Im all for ppl telling what I'm doing wrong. I usually use hodgdon website as my reference. What's a good place to start if they're low?
@joearledge1 what's a good place to get 5.56 load data cause everywhere I go it's always. 223.
Pull a 5.56mm round and measure powder; adjust your ladder test down with the info and use that lower charge weight as the starting point.
Im not sure im following...Pull which 5.56 round? I def need to go up in powder and get into 5.56 velocity/pressure.
@@gc5Hayward that's not how reloading works.... all powders and their charge weights are different, so you can't just pull one, weigh the powder, drop a few grains and work up. Stuff like that is how you have accidental rapid disassembly of your gun and you.
2:10 that "ding" was 10 miles past ok to shoot, especially running as slow as you are.
ALL of my magpul mags have a max COAL of 2.275" so I load to a max of 2.270". Your definitely gonna wanna check your lands with EVERY bullet type and lot with a 223 wylde chamber. Most hit the lands before you hit mag length. So if you're just running max mag length, there's a high chance that you're running jam. Not always a bad thing, but it's something to be aware of. Lot to lot consistency of bullet base to ogive is not as consistent as you'd like to think. I've seen over 0.060" BBTO difference between lots of Sierra 77gr. For some reason they still shoot great 🤷♂️. It's important to be aware of if you're running jam or close to the lands. A spicy load that's fine with 1 lot with ~0.005" jump, might jam hard, spike pressures and blow primers with the next lot.
From all my coal measurements they are all past 2.3" which is what my mag will allow
@Reloaderscodex sounds good, what method are you using to measure the COAL/CBTO? What mag brand is letting you get 2.300" COAL?
@joearledge1 the hornady lock n load oal guage. I use their modified case right now but im going to send in both my 6.5cm and 5.56 fired brass to get more accurate numbers. But I also take into account the brass headspace on the hornady modified case compared to my fired brass headspace and off set the difference to get a better and more realistic number for my chamber if that makes sense
@@Reloaderscodex yeah, it does. If you're getting custom ones, you'll want to fully prep the brass you're sending in, so that it's ready for primer, powder, and bullet. Why? Because you care about the COAL /CBTO from the loading bench to the chamber. After the hammer falls, when the brass expands, you don't care anymore because the round is down range. I don't know how they hold the brass to make the custom cases at hornady, but the way I hold them when I make them, the shoulder gets bumped longer by about 0.001" to 0.002". So I give my brass a little extra bump if I'm making a custom case with it.
So if I've been meausing the difference from the modified case to what I normal have my shoulder bump at when round if fully prepped is correct? Basically I think of it as If the modified cases shoulder is 1.452" and it says a 77gr smk is hitting the lands at 2.328" and n y shoulder is usually set at 1.456" i the bullet will hit the lands in my brass .004" shorter since my brass is .004" longer. Correct? And I always said I'd never use math after college. ...probably why I'm terrible at it.
I think my barrel is fast as hell, or everyone else is shooting grandma plinking loads.... in an 18" 223 wylde, I don't START to see pressure signs till 2850 with 75gr and 2800 with 77gr.... I know it's faster than my 20" 5.56 by about 50 fps, but the max velocities in this thread are below my starting velocities, and they're lower than that in the video. I guess if anyone wants an ultra fast barrel: X-Caliber Barrels, 18", stainless steel, 223 Wylde, 5R 1:8(there are no bullets that will fit an AR mag that require anything faster), bull barrel, rifle length gas(straight gas tube is required, bent normal tubes won't fit the bull barrel), 0.950" adjustable superlative arms gas block, cryo treated(dunno if it makes any difference, but Krieger does it standard on all barrels, so I did), $350-ish if you catch a sale. Keep up the good work!
That's some pretty fast numbers for sure
@Reloaderscodex yeah, confused me at first when factory ammo out of the same box was 50 fps faster in my 18" than in my 20"
Lol yeah that was be a head scratcher for a quick second
Did you let the barrel cool between the two groups? Wondering if the Delta in vertical average could be explained by that.
Yeah not completely cold but I keep the barrel warm but not hot or cold
I used Varget and 4895 in my 308 and 168 gr. Sierra match bullets. Both worked well, but the Varget is a little more temperature stable. My 100 yd groups measured like .345 to .380. You had to look close to see more than the single hole on 5 shot groups. More than once my spotting wife would say, you're missing the target there's still only one hole. lol On a Rem 700 VSSF factory barrel and action, custom stock, trigger, bedding ETC.
That's a good shooter right there. My custom 6.5 I just finished building with the 2nd random load i reloaded with hornady 140gr eld match and h4350 with only 25 shots through my barrel was measuring at .481" with a 5 shot group and im not the best shooter. Im pretty stoked to do some load development with it. It's the first time shooting both 6.5 cm and a bolt gun, so it'll take some getting used to. I def have high hopes she'll be a shooter if I can learn to do my part, which is def the weakest link of the combo.