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I love this! You are correct that for a dog to have "calm" energy, we need to ensure they are also getting mental enrichment and exercise. The caveat is to also make sure not to over-exercise as this can create a dog who is on adrenaline, over-stimulated high, and can not settle down. A good balance is the key. Regarding fading the treat, I did a podcast about how to fade the treat, and yes, @staciamj1 we do not completely go cold turkey and cut out the treat altogether. Random reinforcement is the most effective in terms of sustaining a behavior. Thank you for watching and your comment.

@SuperManning11. You are absolutely right! (LOL) 😄I had that thought as well about saying "contrasting" and not having a contrasting blanket. However, what I have learned is that when I am video recording my mostly black dogs and they are on a dark-colored blanket or rug, you cannot see what my dogs are doing or how they are responding to the training. In regards to the reason for breaking tasks down into simple steps is to prevent frustration in our dogs. Dogs can not fill in the gaps and know what we are thinking or how to take the next level themselves. Just like us, when learning multi-step or complex behaviors we were taught in smaller bite-sized chunks. For example, learning to drive a car, tie a shoe, play an instrument, or learn a sport. Basically, smaller bite-sized chunks help the dog stay motivated, engaged, and successful. I hope that helps answer the question. I would love to hear how the training goes with your dogs.

😂I noticed it too but I sometimes do weird things myself. Like put my milk in the cupboard and then get a mild frustration when I can’t find it in the fridge. 😊

@Vantas_Black. Excellent question! Understanding the underlying reasons for your dog's whining or crying is crucial to addressing their needs effectively. Here's a tailored approach based on your dog's specific reactions: Excitement-Induced Whining: If your dog whines due to excitement over treats, consider substituting the treats with a favorite toy as a reward. Additionally, reinforce calm behavior throughout the day by using treats sparingly, and rewarding your dog for maintaining a calm demeanor. This teaches them that calmness leads to rewards. Frustration-Related Crying: Should your dog express frustration, particularly when trying to increase the time they hold the down, it's beneficial to simplify the task. Instead of expecting a prolonged down, revert to an easier step such as tossing the treat onto the item. To help reduce the pressure and frustration of staying in the dog too long, make sure you release the dog more often. For example, your dog goes to their place, down, and quickly released. Repeat count to 3, release. Next time release as soon as your dog does the down. This can help relieve any frustration that may be causing the whining or crying. Overstimulation by Treats: High-value treats might overexcite some dogs. To mitigate this, incorporate part of your dog's regular meal into training sessions as lower-stimulation rewards. Alternatively, low-calorie options like Cheerios, carrots, or sweet peas can be effective without causing excessive excitement.

@@teresaloya-dogbehaviorexpert hello! Thank you so much! I will try to discover why my pup is whining while training 🤔🤔🤔 and check which possibility can help us in our training! Thank you so much! So kind💕💕🐶🐶🐶

@@teresaloya-dogbehaviorexpert question: can it be both of the options you said? I believe my pup has frustration and excitement for the treats 🤔🤔

@@Vantas_Black Yes, your dog can be excited, anticipating the treats and getting frustrated in not knowing "when" or "why" your pup is getting the treats. In this case, use less high-value treats, like Cheerios, AND go back to an easier step. Perhaps, just start having your pup earn a treat for just stepping on the item. Then the next time as for a sit. End the session. Keeping the sessions shorter and more successful may help reduce your pup's frustration. If you want some one-on-one help, reach out and we can meet for a 30-minute online problem-solving lesson. Email me at teresa@clevercanine.academy.

@kelleywyskiel3478. Thank you for sharing that you have found it useful to use the halti and harnesses for walking your dogs. I love Anatolian Shepherds and have worked with Akbash Livestock Guard dogs as well. :).

@michelelindseth8250. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your thoughts and experiences with training your dogs! It’s always wonderful to hear from fellow dog enthusiasts who are committed to providing their pets with a happy and structured life. Your commitment to teaching your dogs valuable skills is a testament to your dedication and love of your dogs.🌟 The technique demonstrated in my video is designed to engage young dogs in a way that makes learning fun and stress-free. It’s particularly aimed at puppies who are still developing body awareness and have shorter attention spans. By using games and positive reinforcement, we can lay a strong foundation for more complex tasks as they grow. As my dogs mature, I do transition to more precise and advanced obedience skills. I have achieved AKC Obedience and Canine Good Citizen titles, along with competing in Rally obedience, which requires a level of discipline and training that we gradually build up to. Teaching my dogs to heel on both sides is not just for competition; it’s also practical for safely navigating urban environments. Regarding your concern about leash laws, please allow me to clarify. The training session took place in a secure, enclosed area with my dog dragging a 20-foot leash. This setup was to ensure safety while also adhering to leash laws. As a former Animal Control Officer, I am a staunch supporter of responsible pet ownership and compliance with local regulations. 🐕‍🦺 Again, thank you for your comment.

@ronbevacqua2468. Thank you for taking the time to watch the video and comment. I appreciate and value your response. Challenge accepted! I had an Alaskan Malamute and a Weimaraner who I trained to down and sit from a moving heel position as well as down on recall when I was competing in obedience. I Need to start working on that with the current dogs. Thank you for the inspiration to challenge myself. 😁

@ronbevacqua2468. Thank you for taking the time to comment and watching the presentation. Yes. I am in the process of recording and editing more videos. Please let me know if you have any specific topics you would like me to explain or demonstrate.

@ronbevacqua2468. I have been successful in using "place" in various situations a new house, a friend's house, a park, campground with company at my home. The first step is to move your item for a place to different rooms and areas of your home. This way your dog will associate the "item" as the spot to go to. Work on getting your dog to run to the "item" when you say Place and just point at it. Then work on the duration, and how long your dog can stay on the item until released. Practice this while you are eating so your dog learns that when food is around his/her job is to go to the item, lay down, and remain until released. The goal is for you dog to "automatically" run to the item as soon as food is either in your hand or at a table. So fading out telling your dog place. Then transition to outside your home. Understand that when you change the location of the "item" your dog will need a reminder, start with tossing the treat on the item, and then just pointing to the item as you say place. You will know when your dog gets it, because your dog will start running to the item as soon as you start to put it on the floor/ground and lay down on it without being asked. If you need more 1:1 coaching for your dog to help you with these transitions, I offer online lessons to help you out. Learn more here; app.fgfunnels.com/v2/location/w6eEzCChzz7GQr8Fgf7X/funnels-websites/funnels/04blgLBOIVVYNEZF4De7/steps/9551da2d-6080-4490-bf44-f10e1ac8dd02/overview

It is

@pollynaz520. Thank you for watching. I hope it helps you. Let me know if there are other questions you would like me to create videos to answer.

@gracielaloughridge5054. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. I use a combination of string cheese, Full Moon beef and chicken strips (I get fm Chewy) as the treats. All are soft and can be broken up into small pieces smaller than a green pea size. String cheese being white is easier for the dogs to see on dark surfaces or items.

Thank you so much for the information. I love your videos.

Thank you

@boblathrop9983 Hi there! Thanks for sharing your experience with your 4-month-old spaniel. It is expected for puppies to react to new stimuli, including images or videos of other dogs. It is especially difficult when the dog(s) are staring like in the still photo. At 4 months of age, your puppy not only will be going through a teething stage but also a fear stage where new novel things will cause your puppy to be nervous and uncomfortable. That is why it is so important to socialize your puppy, exposing him/her to just seeing things in the world at a distance and making positive associations. Helping your spaniel learn that new sights and sounds are nothing to worry about. If you need more personalized advice or tips, feel free to reach out. I specialize in helping dogs overcome fear and reactivity using positive reinforcement techniques. 🐾

@lizwiltzen1743. I'm thrilled to hear that the video helped you and your dog be successful with the extended stay for the place! It's great to know that you found the content thorough and beneficial for that final step in your training journey. Consistency and patience are key, and it sounds like you're doing a fantastic job. Keep up the excellent work, and thank you for your positive feedback! If you have any more questions or need further tips, feel free to ask. Happy training! 🐾👍

Thank you, Peter, for taking the time to watch the video, comment and subscribe.

@frankdzierzon2291. Thank you for watching and subscribing! Appreciate you.

Thank You.

Thank you for watching!

@howardhdavidson Great question! It's not uncommon for some dogs to be less motivated by treats, but there are many ways to work with this. Firstly, it's important to explore different types of treats. Sometimes it's just a matter of finding the right one that your dog loves. This could be anything from high-value treats like small pieces of chicken or cheese to more unusual items like fruits or vegetables, depending on your dog's taste. If your dog is genuinely disinterested in all types of food treats, consider other forms of rewards. This can include playtime with a favorite toy, verbal praise, or physical affection, like a good scratch in their favorite spot. The key is finding what excites and motivates your dog the most. Remember, each dog is an individual with unique preferences. As a dog behavior consultant, I often recommend observing what naturally interests your dog during their daily routine. This observation can give clues about what might be a rewarding experience for them. Additionally, in some cases, a lack of interest in treats could be due to medical reasons, so it's always a good idea to consult with a veterinarian to rule out any underlying health issues. Lastly, always be patient and keep the training sessions fun and stress-free. This helps in creating a positive learning environment where your dog feels safe and motivated to engage."

@@teresaloya-dogbehaviorexpert Thank you very much for taking the trouble of giving this very incisive, detailed, response and advice, it’s really appreciated .I’ve had many dogs and most have been highly motivated by treats .As you say not all treats necessarily appeal to every dog.I’ve always had dogs from puppies.After loosing my Cockapoo after 16 years, I found it difficult where I live to find a breeder of the Cockapoo .I ended up adopting 3 year old Small Cavapoo who was well looked after and the previous owners was extremely upset about letting the dog go.The couple both worked and had a child a year ago and they were leaving the dog alone during the day.They explained that the dog was suffering separation anxiety and needed to be with people especially common with this mixed breed or any dog. The dog was trained to do some tricks like sitting, lying and rolling over and this was done with treats by the previous owners.I’ve had her for a little over a month now and she seems to have settled down extremely well.She is extremely affectionate,eating well and is well housetrained.Between my wife and I she goes out at least four times a day.I can see that if I just go down to the rubbish,for a few minutes she gets extremely anxious.She doesn’t seem to be that keen on the various treats I’ve tried.She will leave them sometimes and eat them other times. She’s is completely different to my previous dog, as we had him since a puppy.She get extremely hyper at nights after her meal and I play with her and she will then settle.I feel she is extremely happy with us and I will persevere with trying to overcome her separation anxiety if possible.Although we take her everywhere at the moment which perhaps will improve her anxiety long term. Once again I’m grateful for your time and advice. My very best Regards to you. Howard H Davidson.

@howardhdavidson. I am sorry to hear about your dogs separation. It takes anywhere from 1-3 months for a dog to adjust to a new home. I am more than happy to chat with you if you more specific advice. Reach out at teresa@clevercanine.academy to set up a free 30 min consult.

@samkhadre2959. Thank you for watching, I hope you find the strategies useful. I use the Kuranda Beds-which you can find here: kuranda.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC3SZU_7lC9AL3p9tinHzNnZSkMgaI_Ye5ofc9WQe4zFX1PH5wXiM8hoCMm8QAvD_BwE

Thank you for the link.

Your Welcome

@rebeccamontague9811. Thank you for sharing! Yoga mats are a perfect portable item to take anywhere and I recommend them as well. So glad your trainer recommended the mat as a solution. for scale at the vet.

@jeepsahara8924. Thank you for requesting a video on the topic of multi-dog households. I included the link to the pdf to help you teach Taking Turns.

@cherylchlds7025 Thank you for taking the time to comment. Your feedback is important so that I can make content that is helpful.

That is amazing! Thanks for sharing how you use this exercise to help provide an alternative behavior during stimulating situations as well as building impulse control.

@blujeans9462. Thank you for sharing your perspective! The dog shown in the video is only 5 months old and I have only had him for 2 months. Your scenario, would be difficult situation for any dog, even a highly trained police dog would chase a squirrel in the house. Your comment underscores a pivotal element in dog training: mastering the shift from a controlled setting to real-world situations with unpredictable elements like wildlife. Indeed, the core of training lies in this transition. Dogs limited to home environments often develop a stronger prey drive due to reduced exposure to varied stimuli. This is why training in diverse settings is so critical; it helps desensitize and acclimate dogs to real-world distractions. Like teaching my 6-month-old puppy in a grocery store parking lot, introducing controlled distractions in varied settings is key. This process mirrors how we learn complex tasks, such as driving, by gradually increasing challenges. I am currently transitioning my dogs to my front yard with dogs barking across the street and people walking by with their dogs. They are on a leash and a good distance away from the activity, to reduce the intensity and to prevent reinforcement of unwanted behaviors. There are 3 variables that are adjusted to ensure the dogs can be successful. The Distance, The Duration, and the Distraction levels. Gradually introducing distractions, from minimal to intense, while ensuring the dogs are at a good distance to help them be successful at each stage, is essential. It's unrealistic to expect a dog to entirely ignore unexpected stimuli, such as encountering wildlife; instead, the aim is for them to swiftly recover and refocus on their handler. In other words, seeing the squirrel = looking to owner because it is more reinforcing than chasing the squirrel. Training a dog isn't a straight upward trajectory; it's filled with ups and downs and requires adaptability. If you're facing challenges in desensitizing your dog, I'm here to help. Please feel free to reach out at teresa@hq.clevercanine.academy.

@@teresaloya-dogbehaviorexpert Thanks for your in-depth, knowledgeable comment. The only reason I posted my comment was because of the title (which of course, got me to watch the video). When I saw this is really "how to teach the place command" - which I was impressed with your methods, btw - it really wasn't showing us how to make a 'crazy' dog calm - thus I threw in the real-world squirrel scenario. And again, great job - especially with huskies!!

Great instruction. I need this for my very over friendly Bernese. Would you leave the mat down between training sessions, or pick it up?

@@jackieyoung142 Thanks for your question. When first teaching the concept of the mat being placed and getting the dog to run to it, I do pick it up in between teaching sessions. To help the dogs learn to apply the concept in multiple areas, I do leave mats down in the dining area so that my dogs automatically go and lie down while we eat. I also have mats in the office that the dogs will go to while I work. Does this answer your question?

Hello @JorgeRosaleshernandez thank you for that very important question and for taking the time to comment. The dog I was working with, in the video, was 5 months old. I started him as early as 14 weeks old. Any dog can learn this behavior as long as they can be lured into a down position. When I started with my pup, I only introduced this idea of going to a blanket when I was sitting in a chair to eat at the table, work on the computer, and watch TV. I kept him on a leash so that he still could move around but not have freedom of the house and he could step on the blanket more often. I did not ask for a long down, if he stepped on the blanket, I lured him into a down, and if he got up right away, that was appropriate for a 14-week-old pup. I hope that answers your question. I am creating a list of dog training topics viewers would like to see and welcome feedback from you.

@@teresaloya-dogbehaviorexpert thanks for the quick response. I would love some content about getting my dog to stop pulling when going for a walk and not jumping on people. My dog is about 6 months old. She is learning but she is stubborn. 😂

@@JorgeRosaleshernandezmy 6 month old does the same thing so that teaching would be great!!

Hi. There are many dog breeds who are sensitive to sounds be it alerting or more of a guarding instinct. Dogs’ brains are more hardwired to recognize sounds and can hear an estimated 5 miles. In order to help your dog, teach the place first so that your dog will find it a fun game and can really learn without distractions. Then with your phone in hand play a sound, like a dog bark, a car door closing, a person talking, garbage truck, at the lowest volume so that your dog may respond but not be extremely reactive. Tell your dog place, lure your dog to their spot, using a treat, and reinforce. At first, just reinforce the dog getting on the bed. Only practice 2-3 times so you don’t overstimulate your dog. The goal is to begin pairing the “place” as a “job” to do after they have alerted you. If you need more 1:1 help reach out to me at teresa@clevercanine.academy. I can also make a video showing how I do this with my Border Terrier Jax when he barks if you would find that helpful.

Thank you, I am glad you found this to be useful. Feel free to let me know other dog training topics you would like to see.

Thank you, I am glad you found this to be useful. Feel free to let me know other dog training topics you would like to see.

❤

Hi Irene, Thank you for your thoughtful comment about Koda's quick learning ability. You bring up an excellent point: every dog has its own learning pace, influenced by factors like breed, age, and prior training experiences. To address varying learning speeds, I developed the "responsive training approach" during my time working with Alaskan Malamutes, a breed often viewed as stubborn or independent. This approach focuses on building a strong foundation by breaking tasks into smaller steps and consistently reinforcing positive behavior. This creates an environment where the dog is both cooperative and attentive. For those who are struggling with your dog going to place or holding the down position, a helpful tip is to break the steps down even more. For example, with Koda, I practice and reinforce the 'down' position throughout the day,. Two key pieces; 1. your dog needs reinforced for calmly laying down on their own. So catch your dog in a down and toss a treat. Doesn't matter where they are, you are reinforcing calm behavior. 2. your dog needs reinforced for just stepping or standing on the blanket. Try that and let me know how it goes. Thank you again for your input, Irene. Your comment adds valuable perspective, and I hope you continue to find my training tips useful. Best regards, Teresa

HI. Love your profile photo! I have 3 dogs myself, a 5 month Alaskan Malamute, a 5 year old Alaskan Malamute and a 3 year old Border Terrier. All in different stages of learning. I work with each dog separately teaching the behavior, adding the word and at their level of being able to hold the position.. Once each dog understands the behavior (laying down), understand where (place) and can stay for a short time, I begin with 2 together. Keep the time very short, just getting the 2 to go to place and lie down, release, repeat a few times. You have inspired me to make a video showing the process with all 3 of my dogs. Thank you!

@@teresaloya-dogbehaviorexpert Awesome info and looking forward to your group training video!

Hi Rhiannon. I hope it helps. :)