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I've not put finish on a guitar, yet. However, I've refinished pool cue shafts for decades. Im used to using 800 grit, as the coarsest I use. 3000 being the finest. That being said, why so coarse, for a guitar, which you should want to be smooth? Is it a grain thing? Does it "disappear", when too finely sanded?

Lacquer sounds like "lacker". Really threw me when you said liquor. 😊

She looks great.. what was the total build cost with the kit and upgrades?.. sounds like you friend needs a 5150 for heavy riffs..lol.. rock on

Thank you everybody for watching the series. Sorry it’s been so long since I’ve posted. We moved to another state business and home so it has been hectic for quite some time. The guitar plays amazing. I will post another video of the final product soon.

If you want ebonized look you can do it old school. 1 steelwool pad covejkrejd with alcohol (pga) let the pad dissolve then use a rag and wipe on the wood you want to turn black.

Nice! Love the color! 🤘

Thanks for the video series my dude! My kit came in today. The construction seems like a mahogany body, a cheaper maple cap, and then a thin veneer on top. It looks super pretty, though I found a few spots where the glue wasn't the best. Easy enough to fix!

Buy a Les Paul...All of a sudden you're smart. Very disrespectful.

I’m impressed. Looks good, dude.

Are you gonna actually show us some work or just talk?

Hi Robert, Just a note to let you know that I'm a Dutchman living in the Netherlands and I'm thoroughly enjoying this series of your *Robert Custom LP* Les Paul guitar. You explain everything so well. Regarding the headstock, the company Schecter makes the reverse of Gibson's open book headstock which apparently fits like a glove. I was wondering if you enquired with StewMac that if you had chosen to go with Gibson's open book headstock, if you would have run into problems regarding licensing. Thank-you.

Nice video, but you keep mentioning about mahogany stain on the fret board, and mahogany stain is not any darker, if that dark as the rose wood. You must mean ebony stain which is very dark. I'm not being a smart mouth but just thought I might bring that up. Thanks

Hi Robert, and greetings from across the pond! 😄 Great series of videos. I’m just about to get a LP kit to build for a good friend and band mate, and you’ve convinced me to go for Stewmac! Are you going to finish the video series with the hardware installation and possibly your buddy playing it? Finally, out of interest, are the Color Tone lacquers nitrocellulose? We can’t get them over here so I’d need to source an alternative brand. Keep up the great work… would love to see you do a Tele build sometime! All the best Gren

This series is perfect as I'm getting ready to start my own Stewmac kit build. I can't thank you enough for detailing what you did follow and what you didn't (grain filler, differing grits of sandpaper, etc..). I especially appreciate you covering finishing with rattle cans, as this is all I realistically am willing to invest in to finish guitars for personal use. Great work - the guitar looks great, and I can't wait to hear it.

she is looking great and I found my answer about the grain filler.. curious that they had you sand between coats of clear.. it can help if you have serious orange peel but not entirely necessary as the finish sand will level it all and reduce sand throughs.. If you look to some of the mid 2000's Les Paul in the "faded" nitro.. they also did not pore fill.. had weight relief bodies and ligth coat of satin nitro clear.. some think that these LP's sound the best.. Larry Corsa for one.. (Faber USA).. and luthier.. she looks great.. the black backed burst will really pop.. curious about the hardware and brass nut.. how that goes.. hope you got locking tuners for her.. just easier and hold tune nicely..

Robert.. i guess i should watch the rest of the series.. but when do they expect you to grain fill.. this is usually done before spraying.. as the nitro soaks into the pores well.. but perhaps they want it done before clear?.. also.. that flame headstock.. did you consider to spray a burst on it as well.. perhaps the vintage yellow with the burst of red and black on the outside edges near tuners?.. looks good so far.. curious how you will go about sanding this flat..lots of options with great sanding media out there.. wet or dry is possible.. have a look to "shed of dreams" for a guy form UK building from scratch.. he does an awesome job as well..

nice series you have going here.. you are meticulous in details like me.. but you might be overthinking things at times.. (which is not a bad thing).. keep in mind that you have painting skills and nitro is actually very forgiving as each coat MELTS into the ext.. like covering a headstock decal you can build up and sand back.. that spitting you might have been able to sand off with a small block and some 400 grit perhaps.. go right back to work building coats.. if you are worried about sanding through... you could have shot some clear and then sanded back to remove the spitting.. it is a learning curve.. but nitro can be shot in steps all day long and not have to wait 24 hours between colors.. its difficult but yet easy to work with actually.. lol.. nice series i like your thought process.. will help in the long run to have a plan.. but have PLAN B as well..

doing a great job so far! looking forward to seeing the end result sir :-)

great series! love the way it came out

too much talk and not enough actual showing...

Looking good. Can't wait to see/Hear it when finished.

Looks real good. Thanks for Sharing.