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mine has an aperture sight mounted to the cocking peace..is also a bit older from the mid 30s

Never seen this helpful tool before. Not even the Idea of it. Many people breaks their firing pins while taking them out or in due to excessive pressure on them and bad supporting.

You didn't have to do any thing with the rifle and the safety lever. This is a war rifle that needs a man to handle it not a gentle person. It is meant to be always on firing position. You want the rifle idle or locked, just use the rimmed cartridge or a flat screwdriver to grab the notch on the end of the firing pin and pull it back while turning the safety lever to middle or lock position. I Hope this is helpful.

This model came with iron sights, a big plus.

wtf

What is the solution?

Flip it to fire position and leave it alone.

Break the bolt all the way down, clean and lubricate, reassemble.

Hi Chuck, Nates Dad here.. nice work, showed Nate too! Congrats, we’re happy to see the guitar still goin!!

Great rendition ~ can you sing the bullfighter by luke bell?

I have to do this as well for my ishapore, it wont chamber and i am seeing burs in the throat. Where did you find that sand paper and stick u used that worked perfectly and what do you recommend for this ?

What tool is this ? Where can I get something like this ?

Chuck is there a video of how you setup that tool ? I think I need to do that for my enfield. What grain of paper did you use ?

Beatiful 👍🏻

New mags hold 7 and the older mags with a steel follower hold 8

Did you figure it out , mine is doing the same thing

I've been trying to replace my firing pin from a no4 mk2. My firing pin won't unscrew. Any tips.

Is there anything jammed in the cut for the 2nd bolt lug?

Thank you for this video I just bought a Sears model 42 which was produced by Marlin based exactly off the model80 Very happy I know this now

Check head space, extractor claw should be at extractor grove line up for rotation.

Nice improvement on this tool! However I never take them out unless broken or corroded most can be cleaned without removal

Would you take a hundred bucks for it ?

🤣😂

Is not problem ,take bullet

I think gun safeties aren't that big of a deal just be the safety, make sure its unloaded and just be careful with it.

👍🏻

Thank you! Just what I needed.

Hello Chuck. Thanks for showing the face of the bolt and the extractor claw. The claw is large and is covering a lot of the bolt face. It appears that the size and shape of the claw has not been trimmed and adjusted so that its edge only just touches the recess in the head of the cartridge case. You can check for this by removing the bolt from the action and inserting a cartridge into the bolt face, so that the extractor claw holds it in position. I think you will see that there is solid engagement of the claw within the recess of the case head. This is perfectly OK, if you will be feeding rounds into the chamber from the magazine only. If they feed smoothly, without any binding or jamming, the action is working properly and the extractor claw can be left as it is. If you find that rounds are binding when being fed from the magazine into the chamber, or if being able to close the bolt on a round fed into the chamber by hand is desired (in which case the extractor claw needs to pop over the case's rim), then the shape of the edge of the extractor claw needs to be looked at and possibly adjusted. When the claw is trimmed and shaped to achieve lighter engagement with the recess of the case head, the new position of the beveled edge will cause the claw to be pushed aside by the rim of a case which is already in the chamber. It's the bevel of the claw which makes first contact with the rim, rather than the flat, front surface of the claw. The claw is pushed to the side, it pops over the rim and the bolt closes properly. What's happening in the video is that the flat face of the extractor claw is pressing against the base of the rim. The extractor claw and the bolt are blocked from moving forwards. The extractor claw is not being eased to the side by its beveled edge. Reshaping the extractor claw's edge can also solve problems where cartridges get stuck half way into the chamber after being pushed out of the magazine by the bolt. Too much engagement of the claw with the case head will mean that the spring pressure from the extractor is too high. Strong extractor spring pressure stops the case rim from rising high enough behind the claw and the cartridge is held on an angle as it enters the chamber. The sharp edge of the chamber cuts into the brass and the cartridge can bind and jam. This can be a particular problem with belted magnum calibres, which have two sharp edges at the chamber entrance. Trimming and reshaping the extractor claw's beveled edge to reduce pressure on the case will allow it to slip up and behind the claw more easily and cartridges will feed more smoothly. It will be possible to feed cartridges gently, instead of needing to close the bolt hard and fast. Trimming and adjusting the shape of the extractor claw is not necessary if rounds are feeding well from the magazine and you are happy with having five to shoot. On the other hand if being able to load 5 + 1 rounds is desirable, such as when hunting dangerous game, there could be an argument for adjusting the shape of the extractor claw so that it allows the bolt to close on a sixth round that is placed in the chamber by hand. 🙂

Mine is exact same but it's not ejecting she'll casing.???

I have exactly the same problem with my mauser rifle and I would like to know how to fix it

How did you remove the bolt ? I thought the safety had to be up to be taken out.

BS! Take the safety off

Controlled round feed. Not supposed to single load. What EFM lll said

The extractor hzs no space to open up and engage the rim of the round. It is not a bolt problem, this is an operator problem.

The bolt head is bad, Teflon tape worked for me, sounds stupid I know but I promise it works.

Before reloading .303 using casings that were not fired in the same gun, insert the casings on your rifle first to check for excessive expansion which is mostly due to head space differences. .303 is extra susceptible to this because of the taper of the casing and chamber. If a casing is pushed back only a few thou furing firing, the whole length of the casing gets overly expanded under pressure.

I have the same problem with my Belgian Mauser 1889/16. Will this work on that rifle also?

i like the quality of the rifles, but the safety switch is the worst! It realy easy turns on fire when carrying the weapon...

The cartridge should be loaded from the magazine so it "feeds" under the extractor- NOT if front of it as you are doing. Why would anyone load a spent casing????

I highly recommended Sabatti rifles, craftsmanship is outstanding. From Ontario Canada.

I gotta do this to my rifle and then start shooting it haha I have a m48 too

Just bought a M1916 Spanish Mauser. the safety is stuck in the "fire" position, so bolt disassembly is not possible. What is the fix for this problem?

where can i find the technical data sheet of this weapon?

Not difficult to fix. Disassemble the bolt, remove the safety lever and file a small amount off the safety lever cam where it fits into the striker cylinder. Not a difficult project. It will then operate smoothly.

Сабатти Ровер отличный аппарат, ему бы ствол хромированый, был бы класс. А так под дождём поохотишся, сразу непочистишь, ствол ржавый.

Where can we buy this?

Thanks dude. This comment section helped me.

It’s a Mauser. Controlled round feed. Not supposed to single load. You can break the extractor. Load from the magazine.

Never had that happen to mine try closing bolt on a empty rifle with trigger depressed to reset bolt to uncocked position try setting safety if that don't work take to gunsmith

I have had to do this on two, built from parts, Actions when none of the soda can of Safeties I have would not do the job. A "It left me no choice" action.