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Ha!

Trains and railroads, I found it while snooping through the Google play store 👍

Just call me Dadiplier my rizzler 💪

@ lol ok

Just the basic map the game gives you, plus my track design 💪

You need to change the power. The power your working is ALCO S2 or S4 with a 539 prim mover and not a GMD 567

I figured out how to email the developer, and I suggested the addition of more locos, hopefully he can do that for us, because I am a sucker for SD40-2's 👌 Maybe the addition of better sound files...should be 'easy' if they could get ESU on board 🫡

She is gorgeous! Now I just need some track 😅

There are a couple ways, but I used a very simple AR1 auto reverse circuit from Digitrax, running your main power bus to the AR1 and then the turn table power leads to the AR1, I believe you can also use a SPDT toggle switch if you would prefer manual circuit reversing 👌

@@MAYNE_line ok thank you very much for the info

Interesting! I have several of their loco models, RS18, FA2, FB2, D10, E8, to name a few including several rolling stock models in the transitional era of steam and diesel, as well as the modern era. If you are able to it's definitely worth looking into, well worth the investment, Rapido has incredible customer service and warranty 👍

I had an order in for the 2816 but unfortunately I just couldn't afford it, so I spoiled myself with this one 👍

Thank you sir!

It very well could be, I have not had any time to look into it, but I'll for sure start cutting traction motors out and see what happens 👌 that's usually what the shops tell us to do 😜

If you can find me a can motor that drops in, I'm all for it! Until then, I'll try a few things that I know 'work', even if they don't, it's all part of this wonderful hobby we're in haha

They are very old (now) and very big compared to the sugar cube speakers we use now haha but they are Railmaster Hobbies DSM-8, they fit perfectly inside the Kato shells, I used them any chance I could! I went and checked their website too, I can't believe how long it took for Bowser to figure these out, I remember I had pre orders in, must have been 4+ years ago! I also saw they have BLI script GP35's...oh boy lol

@@MAYNE_lineScale Sound Systems is the shit!

Haha thanks dude! Can't believe it's been four months since I last uploaded! But I have really been putting my head down and just grinding away at work, trying to get caught up on everything, before Christmas. Unfortunately I cancelled my empress orders, but if I can still swing one, I'll hit up the OVR, they seem to have some great pricing even with shipping out west here, I need to get my hands on the new rapido 40' box cars too... Bowser RS3 should be here next month?

@@MAYNE_line both the steam and rs units are in. Same with the box cars. There is limited amounts on the steam so act fast. Don’t want you to miss out

Oh really? Interesting. I haven't heard anything from Mr. Arsenault in regards to my RS3, he is not happy with me though... But yeah, we'll see how things go for me, gotta make sure I can still afford everyday life first before dropping some cash on a Hudson 😅

Yeah not too shabby eh? Was gonna try to scoop up another kato GP35 but it sold too quick, still looking for a good deal. But yeah if Bowser is finally releasing their script sd40's then id definitely opt for a few, saves me a project lol There really was no difference, gonna try looking at the trucks next, could be bad gears or something???

Hey man! Yeah sorry about that, I realized way after the fact that I messed up the editing on that particular upload, so I revised it this morning and re-uploaded, feel free to check it out! I haven't tried removing the worm gears yet to check for truck/gear noise, I'll give it a go when I'm back from work next. It might be worth cutting out a few traction motors haha

Sorry for the delay, although not the easiest or most user friendly kit to build and use, I had soldered the track leads onto the brass collars. There are two tabs that hide underneath the pit and make contact with those brass collars, which have leads attached and run to my digitrax AR1 (auto reverse circuit) which is then attached to track power. Hopefully that helps!

Haha yeah man! I ended up going with the 130' dcc turntable from walthers, it still has a few hiccups but way more user friendly once set up and programmed.

Thanks! It was...ok...haha in my opinion anyway, the wiring is very simple, leads soldered to the individual rails on the table to the two brass collars, when the table is mounted into the pit there are two tabs that will be installed and make contact with the individual collars. Attach leads onto them and you can either use a digitrax AR1 like I have or a SPDT switch, the auto reverse circuit can be adjusted and will allow for seamless transitions, the switch will allow you to reverse polarity manually. You can either spin the table by hand, or install the recommended walthers motor kit. This isn't the most user friendly kit to build or use so keep in mind it will be a process of trial and error! I haven't used mine in quite sometime and would like to return to it, potentially use a different motor, custom mounted, as the walthers one is very noisy and hard to control when lining up tracks perfectly. Good luck and sorry for the delay in my response.

Thanks man! They are fantastic for sure. It's ok, not that it's a bad thing but to be expected. They'll come back in tip tip shape! Definitely. It was a relief once I had actually cancelled everything. I don't like biting off more than I can chew and it snuck up on me for sure.

We are few and far between, wish I could go further with my 'layout', maybe in a few years...thanks man!

Are you talking about the 'cab' track?

@@MAYNE_line the track that the trains on

I'm trying, thanks!

Thanks James!

Thanks dude! Those are actually athearn RTR's, the boxes say 40' Box Car-Youngstown Door. I think they're just a nice baggage car, which I've been using them as such. But I could be wrong lol

Gotta love it lol the packaging is labeled as 40' Box Car-Youngstown Door, they are Athearn RTR's and I figured they were fancy baggage cars, which I've been using them as such. So I could totally be wrong Robin, Andy W has produced some absolutely stunning models, I'm very fortunate to have one of his last Robot-1 cars!!!

Thank you! Rapido FP7A's and Walthers coaches 👌

I'm trying dude! Thank you!

Thanks again James!

These two are probably my best running models at the moment for sure. Thanks man! Haha it takes some imagination to not be so bland, but I agree haha

Thank you!

Thank you! I might be slightly biased 😅

I definitely need better lighting, thank you for the tips and tricks! I am limited to my phone but a camera would be a fantastic investment for myself in the future 👌

Thanks man! I become less proud of it the more time goes by, maybe I'll attempt another mini series like this in the future with more planning, time, and a better camera

I'm going to maybe attempt another round of videos on both turntables in the future. Stay tuned and thank you for watching 👍

I do actually, right now I'm using a Google 6a but would like to maybe upgrade in the future. I try to get good shots, thank you! I'm hoping everyone who watches picks up what I'm putting down with this 'mini series'

This kit is a good deal but requires a ton of work to properly function unfortunately. I honestly haven't used it in quite some time now, but I do intend to revive it in the future. I used a digitrax AR1 to auto reverse the table when I spun locomotives (feeders attached directly to the table tracks of course as per kit instructions but you can also use a toggle switch to reverse polarity), I used a 12v DC power pack to control the table motor and even that at a very low speed would make it very difficult to line up the service tracks on either side. But it was possible with enough patience.

Did you need to wire the turntable service tracks to make the trains move or did you have to do something else?@@MAYNE_line

Thanks man 💪

These are Walthers coaches, mixed new and old, decent for the price considering the amount of detail, and the newer run can handle 18" curves but have longer floating coupler shanks and pockets to account for that, whereas the older cars have the draft gear boxes solid mounted to the car :)

Thanks, I hope so! They are Walthers but I honestly have no clue if it is a prototype car or not, the park cars usually have a dome with the observation end right? My guess is it's just based off a US built coach and painted in CP, good question though, guess I'll have to do some research lol

Weird, I'll have to run to dollar tree then, because the first few sheets I got from Dollarama peeled no problem, but these other ones I got definitely were not having it lol

Hells yeah bruh 👌

I'm exploring it more next week (videos to follow march ish 😜), hopefully there's something good! I haven't actually watched anything on these so it's still all new to me haha

Gotta keep you coming back somehow dude 😂

Very soon James 👌

Thanks dude! Yeah what can you do eh? Weird. You and me both! There's a bit of a break after this, I've been busy, haven't touched the layout lately, working literally everyday. Trains need to be ran before the managers start driving this spring! Strike...you and me both man, maybe one day we'll luck out 🤞

The struggle is real for sure, getting there slowly haha

100% lol

Imma have to get me one of those!

That's a good idea! I'll have to do something similar moving forward, thanks for the tip!

@@MAYNE_line Actually I learned the track nail thing for laying cork from an old Atlas model train book. That way there is no waiting for adhesives to cure and less mess if you need to take the cork and track, back up. With track held down with adhesives, you have to weight it down while it cures and you can't see if the track is crooked with the weights on it. If you use track nails, you can eyeball it and tweak it after nailing down. Nails can be pulled up with needle nose plyer's.

Thanks man! Haha you and me both 😂